Leaderboard

So the more important veneer - the top bookmatched one. So the main learning from the plain maple was that it is likely to shrink a mm from wet glue to bone-dry ironed First, as with all bookmatching, was to work out which is the best way round out of the 4 options. For this, I cut out a full-size paper template - it is amazing how often the nice figuring is not inside the body shape area! This will work, though: So same process as the demarcation veneer - apply the Titebond to both the veneer and the body and let them dry. When I applied the titebond to the plain maple, this happened: So there was a patch I didn't iron well enough yesterday. And is this going to be a problem? Well, no. Remember that you can reheat and remelt the glue as many times as you want. As long as there is actually glue there (and I know there is) then I know that when I iron on the bookmatched sheet, it will remelt this area too and glue them both So the first side gets positioned. The great thing about the glue being dry is that you can take as long as you like making sure it is where you want it: So that one is ironed on and the bulk excess cut off. Then for the second sheet, I matched up the figuring - but then overlapped the first sheet by 1mm. With luck, it will then shrink by a mm and be a perfect centre join (fingers crossed) Bingo! (Private "Phew!") So am I going to finish sand the edges? No - not yet. This is my cunning plan to try to keep the demarcation veneer white, even though I am going to be dying the top red. If I leave an overlap, then the dye won't soak into the white maple. Then I sand the edges of the dyed top veneer and reveal the white demarcation line! And (really) I have absolutely no idea whether that is going to work!!

hey everyone, its nice to see this forum still going and helping others pick their first bass! I’m really enjoying teaching myself my fingers are starting to get use to jumping over the fretboard, my audio interface arrives in a few days and hopefully i can start getting covers up on youtube so i can share with you all, hope everyone is keeping safe and well! 😊

My new Noguera Harmonie Standard Custom 6 Fretless with Brazilian rosewood fingerboard (my favourite wood for fretless fingerboards).

I’m a great fan of both. For obvious reasons, release of the new album has been postponed. https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR1r7fnIS3ya9xbYMkKAbVCuf6ZBFI1mF1-jsa5kYkwhmwfFwobbW2OXC1E&v=uROM05_ARxc

Things of beauty. Can someone explain what the feedback switch does though please ?

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Erm, having bought and (foolishly) sold an R400 last year, I have a new one winging its way from Poland too 🤷‍♂️

If you have ever let your email address anywhere near Scott Devine you will no doubt be sick to death of being inundated with promotional emails for his Player's Path. The idea is to give students a path to follow through all the distracting shiny things and study properly in a joined up way. I've taken the free trial and here's my reflection after just a couple of days: If you've already been to Scotts Bass Lessons you will recognise much of the material. If you're a grown up (which I ain't) I can't tell you how much you'll take from his approach. But if you're an outright beginner, fresh to the bass and Scott, I have to be a little gushing and say I think you will find this quite awesomely useful. For the price of three or four lessons with your real life local, and in my experience crap, teacher, you will get a quite astonishing musical education. I know a lot of people don't like Scott's style or his very American marketing techniques, and I've been as rude as most in the past, but this Player's Path thing I would have killed for when I took up bass 10 years ago and was pitched into my first gig without even knowing what a bassist did, let alone how (there were tears).

Easily done with an MC6. You can even label the buttons via the display to say stuff like “chorus”, “distortion” etc.

75 Black Sabbath - Symptom Of The Universe.

I asked Adrian for a comparison of their surf v sea foam green as it looks the same on their configurator and he duly obliged with some photos. As it turned out I wasn't fond of either so went with the valley green instead. Maybe an email is worth a punt?

Made in Japan literally changed my life. Even today it sounds every bit as brilliant as the day I first heard it back in the 70's. It cost next to nothing to record and no overdubs. The so called 'porky' vinyl pressing listened to on a decent turntable is sonically astonishing, particularly when compared with much of what is released nowadays. Have to say that other than Purpendicular, the Morse era has had little to offer IMO. Gillans voice has been shot for many years now, but at his peak he was astonishing.

Welcome. I worked in Stevenage for years. A building called antelope house i believe it’s now flats? Lock your wallet away before going into the for sale section!! 👍🏻

Just put on second coat

Looks like a blue ghost that is very happy to have escaped.

I have plasterboard walls too mate. I used the metal plasterboard fixings and they are solid. As I said, they have been hanging for years and I regularly take them down to play them, so they are getting well used. No problems at all.

Something for Chris Cornell and Audioslave fans here:

I’m not ashamed to say that this will be a faker. Being a leftie I’ve had a lifetime of music shops with zero guitars for me. This is why I started to make my own. Granted Fender have now started to make the Player Precision, but for yonks all that was available was the Jazz. I want a Roger Walters (tribute) Bass. Not available in leftie. Do Fender make a left hand maple neck that I could buy? Nope. Hence the faker decal on my own neck. Not trying to deceive anyone other than myself 😉

Could never get into Zep or Sabbath but have always loved DP since a copy of 24 Carat Purple appeared in the house courtesy of my older brother. IMV Ian Gillan in his prime had one of the greatest voices in rock music. There’s an interesting read here that touches on why Purple never reached the same heights as Led Zeppelin. https://www.quora.com/topic/Deep-Purple-band?ch=10&share=1868d6a3&srid=D9y7G

Assuming the guitarist and drummer hadn't arrived yet, I would turn the volume down, all presets and buttons etc off, put all the EQ to 12 o'clock and take it from there. I wouldn't spend much time working on the sound. IMO rehearsals are to get the band stopping and starting together and to get the geography right, so thereabouts is close enough.

I did it for a year assuming it would thereafter be a lot cheaper but it was still very expensive. I liked the lessons but got way more from face to face with a tutor. That is nothing whatever to do with SBL and everything to do with the way I prefer to learn. Or as Ped would say, you can't not agree to disagree that it isn't not a good way not to learn to not learn.

While I agree those three were massive, Zep was always seen as not really a heavy metal band, Sabbath's legend was kept alive partly by Ozzie's continued fame. I wonder how much Ritchie Blackmore's Rainbow and Whitesnake helped to bury Deep Purple? And then before you knew it metal was redefined and they were just another bunch of old guys past their sell by. Odd how it can happen. They sound more prog than metal to me now.

There's one of the red ones on ebay for £25 posted. Seems a no brainer at that price.

It's on the other side of the board - TC Polytune 2 Noir. If you mean the pedal closest to us, that's an early 1st batch valve EF86 pre-amp called the Edison by Night Owl Industries (NY, USA). https://www.nightowl.industries/edison-preamp

I like Scott...I've met him a few times and he's always been approachable and friendly. I've found the free stuff he posts on YT really helpful. I would have loved to have had access to somebody like Scott 30 years ago. As somebody who's unlikely to ever earn any sensible money from playing bass I'm not going to dive in but I can see that somebody who's on the way up and motivated could easily get their moneys worth from his courses. Good luck to him...

I know how much work went into it and think it’s a brilliant idea. Best of luck to him with it.

Basic mistake....everything's the wrong way round 😉😉

I’ve got a ‘66 P bass. It’s an absolute belter! It sounds amazing and is easily the best Fender P I’ve had. It’s had a refin but that’s about it. Will be my main gigging bass once we can actually gig again.

Watching this as I was thinking the same thing

Here's a lockdown vid from another band wot I'm in.

They never saw themselves as heavy metal. Gillan famously said in a later interview 'Heavy metal makes me want to vomit'. When Purple signed to EMI they ended up on the Harvest label which tended to be set aside for their more left field artists. Even before Gillan and Glover joined they were seen as a 'progressive' group.

I thought we were just talking about a Purple tribute? Didn’t specify a WDWTWA tribute.

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Just to close up this thread. Ordered and received the waist extension from the US. Cost a small fortune in the end for what it is (due to customs and processing adding whack into the cost) but glad I did.

So - the PVA ironing method. Actually, having done some trials, this time round I am going to use Titebond wood glue, but usually I use the Evostic 'Compound W' Wood Glue (the green bottle sold in Homebase etc). Both work the same. Normal reminder - this is how I do it but, always with me, never assume that "this is how it should be done" . There are other ways, but personally this is how I find best for me and my limited facilities. Basically, I turn wood glue into an iron-on glue. Proper woodworking PVA and also products like Titebond melt when they are heated. That's why you can remove a fretboard with an iron. So this method uses that principle but to glue the veneer in the first place. Now it is a luxury that I am doing a demarcation veneer. Firstly, it's been a while since I've done a veneer job. But also different veneers have different characteristics and while the top veneer will have its own, nevertheless both the demarcation veneer and the top bookmatched are maple and therefore in some respects will have similar properties...which is useful to know when planning the all important bookmatched top! But an essential first - it will become impossible to find the bridge holes once you have veneered - so I do a simple paper template with my fingernail. When it's veneered, I will line up with the neck pocket and control pot holes and then I know where to plunge my centre point to re-find the bridge holes and earth wire hole : Then this is essentially what I do. I use a gloss paint small sponge roller to apply the glue both to the body and to the veneer : It is ESSENTIAL that there is glue at all of the edges. Same with the veneer. If you do nothing about it, then the moisture from the glue will make the veneer start rolling in on itself: And so I use a little travel perfume spritzer bottle from Superdrug to spray water on the other side - that side then expands too and, hey presto, it flattens by itself: Now remember that bit - the veneer tangibly expands due to the moisture of the glue. With this method, that is an important thing to understand...because the amount it expands, depends on the wood type Then, I let the glue dry. Takes about 20 minutes, but now it means I can position the veneer on the body with ease, dry glue next to dry glue. To get it to bond, I heat it with an iron. Any household iron will do (but use it dry - don't use it on a steam setting). I happen to use an old heat-shrink iron but that is simply because MrsAndyjr1515 is a very scary woman who, I discovered, objects strongly to me getting PVA on the soleplate of laundry iron. So, I position the veneer and then, starting at the join line and working outwards, iron it on. I hold the iron in an area for a few seconds, then use an old duster to put pressure on that area for a few seconds until it cools enough to hold together. This process is completely repeatable, that is, you can go back and redo - it will re-melt and then re-cool. When the main area is secure, I work on the edges, pressing hard with the iron to make sure the glue is fully bonding the veneer: And that's that side done! Now - this whole technique takes a bit of practice, and not least cutting the excess. I use a Stanley disposable knife or a Swann Morton disposable hobby knife and use a sawing motion, using the body side as the blade guide. I remain acutely aware of where a split will run so always cut 'downhill' to the grain: By the way - the other side is glued - you can see here just how dry it can be before you apply the second veneer sheet! And repeat the whole process and finally sand the edges: Now - for the top veneer, this wouldn't be good enough - see the gap in the middle? Yes it can be filled and stained, but it needn't be there. I will show (hopefully) in the next post how this can be avoided. But remember earlier - that the veneer expands with the moisture of the glue? Well, of course, when you iron it dry, it shrinks again. And now I know, for maple, how much it is likely to shrink. And that knowledge IS part of my cunning plan for the next stage...applying the book-match quilted maple veneer

Don't do it. Despite these being a production model, there aren't many about. 5 years or so back, the odd one that came up was about £500 used. Now the odd one that comes up is usually around £900/£1000. One loony tune had one up on eBay a few months back at £2200. They haven't been made since about 2012 I think. It's not all about the money, it's the importance of Steve's blue P especially in the 80s and whilst it's only a personal opinion, these particular basses should really be kept original as a part of rock music history.

Adam is a great basschatter. Very good communication and transaction. Deal with him is great !!

I have just bought Fender Jazz 5 deluxe from Adam. Everything went perfect: great communication, fast shipping, very friendly, no issues at all. Recommended

Just traded a bass with Adam and it has been a nice experience, good comunication, good bass, promty shipping, all perfect! Thank you!

Bought a US Fender Jazz bass from Adam. Very good communication throughout. Guitar was well packed and tracking provided.

I've owned a LOT of basses and 3 6 string basses over the last 3 or 4 years (well last 30 years of bass playing actually, but mostly 5 and 6 strings over past few years). I owned, loved (until the honeymoon ended) and sold an ibanez btb 6 string - 556. it was sexy, amazing, but the bart 1 pickups and/or body woods left me flat always. it was too tame. I own a carvin icon 6 (just got it!) neck through walnut top alder wings maple/walnut neck ebony board 3 band with vari-mid and piezo pickups with blend and .... well the list goes on. It's an absolutely shockingly amazing bass. I also own an ESP LTD B-206 FM (flamed maple) 34" scale 6 string bass as being discussed here. It's a truly excellent bass. I managed to lower the action nearly to the point my carvin and warwick are at, which is uber low. It sounds more aggressive (once you tune in the very bizarrely interactive preamp tone controls) than my carvin, and my carvin is not tame by any means. The ESP/LTD is in fact nearly as aggressive sounding as my warwick. It's beautiful, VERY well made, solid as a rock, plays great. Only downsides are that the preamp goes through batteries many times faster than my other active basses (seems to last maybe a couple dozen hours of being continuously plugged in before needing a new battery - my other basses would last for several days being plugged in before dying if I left them)... so in real life use my ESP LTD needs batteries replaced every week of regular rehearsals, recordings, and a weekly gig. That's not a huge deal, just need to remember to change the battery and replace it before gigs. The bass tone control (on the 3 band) works also like a volume control, it's the design of the circuit (like some older tube amp tone stacks) which takes getting used to. It still works fine but you have to mess with things a while to get it sounding just right, then basically leave it alone and use treble and mid for tone controlling. I am quite happy to keep my ESP LTD with my warwick (Germany), carvin (USA), and 2 ernie ball (USA) basses. nobody would know that I paid $350 canadian for it, used. when I got it the action was terrible - but I lowered the bridge like crazy, adjusted the neck very very slightly (truss rods), and left the nut alone since it was actually cut low enough for a change (compared to most production basses). I put on d'addario XL medium light strings (nickel wound, their standard line). That was a year ago. It's been rock solid stable in our changing climate every since - the neck IS more solid than on an ibanez SR 505 I used to play.... never owned a 506 but I definitely prefer this bass to the 505 I used to have. I love solid necks that don't need constant adjustment as weather changes, and I like necks that are very rigid as it improves the tone of the instrument very very obviously compared to more flexible necks (my opinion, but based on lots and lots and lots of experimenting and research and general consensus among some builders I've talked with). For what it's worth it's built in the same factory as the midrange (500 series) ibanez basses - but the design specs are superior (5 piece neck, dual truss rods, superior (imho) top wood, vastly superior sounding esp branded pickups in my bass compared the korean fake-bartolinis in many ibanez basses). I know they change pickups in different years and even some are 35" scale length, but mine at least is completely satisfying... fully stock aside from a basic setup.... to this VERY pickup tone-freak and low-action-loving professional bassist.