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Andyjr1515 last won the day on February 20

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  1. I am even more speechless than I was before!
  2. Well, a lot of set up still to do and a few remaining jobs, but we actually have a playing bass! First job was cutting the new nut from the Graphtech Black Tusq XL blank: Then a look at the Wal shim. The neck angle is dependant on the bridge height and I suspect the original Wal bridge sits higher than the new Hipshot because the strings are far too low with not enough saddle adjustment to reach even the minimum action height. It's a funny old business but folks are often very sniffy about shims - 'a decent luthier doesn't need a shim' is an oft stated opinion. Well, you don't get much more decent luthier than Wal and every Wal neck I've ever seen has one of these... And anyway, for starters it had to go. With it planed and scrapered off, I could get to normal action heights, albeit with the saddles adjusted pretty high so I will probably add a slightly thinner one than this to the front edge of the heel so I can drop the adjusters on the saddles a touch...but with is as it is, it plays! And even through my not-a-proper-bass-rig it sounds pretty darned fine So, still to do: - A bit more work on the heel angle to get the action range of the saddles a touch better - final set-up work on the frets - final tidy up of the fretboard, edges rounding, etc - string tree - tidy up the neck bolt recesses - fit the strap buttons
  3. Having just fitted the bridge to the Wal save, it's fresh in my mind. There are two things that have to be right - the left /right position and the forwards/backwards position For the left /right, my preferred method it to temporarily fit the top and bottom strings, tightened enough for them to be straight and then position the bridge so the strings are equidistant from the fretboard sides and/or in line with (or at least symmetrical to) the pickup poles: Then, for the forward/backward you need to position it with enough saddle movement available to intonate the strings. For this, I do the following: - I check how much adjustment the bridge has (they vary!) from the furthest usable forward position of the saddles to the furthest usable rearward position of the saddles. Ideally, this is at least 5mm. - Generally, the top G intonates at around 1mm longer than scale length and the bottom E (or B on a 5 string) 4 or 5mm longer than scale length. It will NEVER be shorter than scale length - So I wind the G saddle fully forward - I then position the bridge with the G saddle at exactly scale-length, make sure it's square to the centre-line (and double check the above alignment) and mark the screw positions - I then know that all of the other saddles are capable of being adjusted to positions longer than that scale length by up to 5mm and that therefore all strings will be capable of being intonated correctly. -
  4. I was posting at the same time you were. I probably have some thicker veneer around too. That is 2.5mm. But yes - there's a bit of work to do at the back of the heel to get that to fit better.
  5. Yes - as @PaulThePlug suggests, a strip of veneer either side. Veneer is generally 0.6mm thick so should get pretty close. If you don't have any, PM me your address and I'll send you a couple of pieces from my bits stash.
  6. And the neck is on! The edges of the holes will be tidied up, but everything fits and the neck is on nice and tight. So now I can position the bridge. This needs to be at the correct scale length and also line up with the neck and - preferably - the pickup poles. I threaded a couple of 'test strings' through the back and loosely over the tuners, then positioned at the 1st fret with a capo. This allowed me to position the bridge until it was all lined up and mark the hole positions: So bridge holes drilled and bridge fixed. It's not playable yet because I have to plane off Wal's original neck heel shim to reduce the neck angle a touch - but it all lines up Phew! So tomorrow is about adjusting the neck angle to get the right action range, fitting the string tree and cutting the graphtech nut blank. Then we can see if we can get any sounds from it And then, it's just the final action and intonation set up and strap buttons...and then, unless I've forgotten anything major, it's pretty much done
  7. If I charged £8k for a build, I'd feel obliged to give the new owner my car as well, which wouldn't please MrsAndyjr1515 a great deal....
  8. The bridge is well back putting the front button almost in the goldilocks zone so it probably wou!d have been OK. But what would have been more a challenge with the body shape would have been playing over the knee. Because the waist is so far forward, you play with the large rear bout resting on your knee and, with the bass held head slightly high, it balances comfortably. With a headstock, this would have been more of a challenge.
  9. Great news! The UNF bolts and cup washers have been shipped In the meantime, amongst the final prep stuff for the body, the ferrules at the back have been put in: And the all important 'This is not a genuine Wal body' mark stamped in:
  10. When you say strip down? All you need to do for electrical contact is sand some of the paint off the bottom of the bridge to make sure the earth is touching bare metal. For the wire itself, you can just splay it out (making sure there is no wire insulation above the hole. You separate and splay out the wire to make sure there is not a big lump of wire that would stop the bridge fully seating) and let the bridge clamp it down into the wood surface. The alternative I use is I pop a small square of copper foil near the hole, including a piece the presses into the hole and then solder the earth wire to the copper in the cavity. That way, the solder joint is out of the way but there is good electrical contact with minimal thickness:
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