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Andyjr1515 last won the day on June 30

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  1. But I did, of course, play it before I passed it over, although not through a proper bass rig. Very promising indeed and quite different to any other I've used. But I better not spill the beans and spoil Matt's glory
  2. The bass is back with Matt Marriott. I've got one of his 6 string electrics I'm doing some mods on - I'll use it as collateral to make sure he doesn't get too distracted on other things
  3. With the neck timbers having arrived, they have now been joined up which means that most of the major structural components are ready for their respective further stages of work: There are a myriad of small jobs on each, plus a few big and scary ones! The first falls into the small jobs category - fitting the cutaway sides. One is gluing: While the other one is glued and the excess removed. At some stage, the bottom edge will be routed for some maple binding to be fitted. Now that will be scary...
  4. I'm afraid some unavoidable family stuff has got in the way and I won't be able to get there. But I will be at the next one! Have a great one, folks. Andy
  5. Yes - perfectly normal and yes, it's just the geometry. Generally, with a shallow radius and taper, it isn't enough to notice. You could even it out, by tapering the blank, but in my book that's in the 'too hard' territory and for dubious benefit! Looking good, btw
  6. Yup - looking very good. Nice clean routing there, too!
  7. Good call. Should be fine
  8. And so I'll be moving into a 'planning before doing' phase over the next couple of weeks - not least because there are some grandparenting duties looming which means 'moving all your mess out of the way' But there's a lot to get right and it is worth the pondering without the temptation of cutting or gluing something before I'm sure! This is where I'm at with the wings: The ebony is around 6mm thick and will have a subtle top carve, following the same sort of curve as the back, a couple of diamond 'f' holes and some weight relief scoops in the underneath. And some very careful routing for the switches. Switches? Yes - we're going Jaguar guitar switch system, back mounted. "And so I'll be moving into a 'planning before doing' phase over the next couple of weeks"
  9. And some more wood has arrived. First I added some kerfed linings to stiffen things up: And then repeated everything described above to make the second back: And so, although there are many tasks to be done before I glue them, it was time to rough-cut the tops. I chalked the optimum (only) position for the tops using my modified mould as a guide: This was the longest/widest piece of ebony I could find - not much leeway in any direction! Now you can probably see why I need a visible through-neck And cut, oversize, sitting on the backs: Clearly, there will be the weight of the through neck length to add, but, with some overage and carvings still to take off, all 4 components - 2 tops and 2 backs - are sitting at 3 1/2lbs total. Not bad. A 'standard' solid body blank often gets up to 5lbs, so probably comparable even though it's a much larger body than standard
  10. Bit more progress. First, I made a mod to my thickness callipers. They had flat pads and that made it pretty much impossible to check the thickness across the area of the back or sides because the slightest angle would open up the jaws and give a false reading. I had a rummage in my 'general bits' box and found these caps from some old mirror fixing screws: Out with the dremel to cut away the screw, in with the 30 minute epoxy and now the calipers work perfectly And to thinning the back and sides from the supplied 3.5mm to the planned final thickness of 1.9mm. I'm sure there are better ways but, in the absence of a sander thicknesser, this is the best way for me. My little block plane: Then, once it was within 0.1mm or so of the target, smoothed out with the Mirka: Next was bending the first side and end: And, after lots of checking, using the long reach clamps to force the back into the radius- dish shape to glue it and the similarly shaped braces. Finally a reinforcement block for the florentine and we have a self-supporting curved back and the basic components done waiting for some kerfed (slotted) internal linings and the ebony top And, as I'm waiting for the kerfed strip, no excuse, I suppose, for starting the whole process again for the other side
  11. Hmmm...not sure how that would work. Because the string goes through the middle of the cylinder, wouldn't all the strings behind the ones closest to the nut clash with their cylinders? It would be fun trying though - but not on this build
  12. I can't really remember from the last ones I fitted, but I don't think so...
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