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Can you imagine the ad for the job? Must look like Paul McCartney. Must be willing to be shot.

I picked this up yesterday. It’s Charvel 1B from 1987 and considering its age, it’s in super overall condition. I was never brave enough and far too cool to own one of these when they were popular, but now I’m older and no longer give a stinky poo, it’s the perfect time to have one! My poor band may think otherwise. I forgot just how good these bolt on Charvel necks are: it’s incredibly comfortable and I’ve been able to get a seriously low action on it. It also doh said great too and the reverse P pickup is a great variation. Now, where’s my hairspray?

Hello! Thanks for having me. I’m hoping to learn from you all and share whatever I can! Briefly, I am a guitarist primarily (I have joined guitarchat), but I also play bass; I teach both. I have spent most of the last six weeks feeding my desire to learn more about the wonderful bass (it’s sooo much fun!!!). I’ve been enjoying Jamiroquai and Incognito, Zander Zon and Michael Manring; and have been working my way through the James Jamerson transcriptions and the Stuart Clayton Ultimate Slap books. Sat on the bass pile of books is the John Goldsby “The Jazz Bass Book” and another Stuart Clayton “Solo Arrangements....”. I can’t wait to get into them but life and the new term will probably get in the way! I’m also waiting for my new TC Electronic BH250 and Eden EX112 to arrive. My main bass is the Peavey Grind 6, which I hope to mod with the help of Ricardo Westie (he’s on here somewhere). I hope I’ve got this right, I’m not good with technology....it doesn’t have the right kind of strings!

OK - this is where I have to repeat the warning to folks who may not have seen my other builds - and especially any 'beginner' builders. It is simply this. My threads describe how I personally go about things - and sometimes they work and sometimes they don't. Generally I detail both. They are statements of how I have done things but are never - and will never be - statements of 'this is how it should be done.' I am essentially a bedroom builder and quite often - through necessity or because I have difficulties with the way most builders do things - I go about things differently to the 'conventional' way. When they work, no one is more surprised than me . So by all means try things the same way if you think that it will work in your particular situation - but please NEVER assume I know what I'm doing! So Ironing on binding. (See what I mean ) I've got to that age where I forget things - and when I did the binding for the top, I had forgotten that I once did binding a different way which suited me much, much better. Those of you who have followed any of my veneering threads (or saw my demo at the last Midlands Bass Bash) know that I use Evostick wood glue as an iron-on adhesive. And I tried it once on binding. So here goes again! Basically - other than the iron and a pair of gloves - this is the kit. No bicycle inner tubes in sight (quick snap of the local kids in the street ) - I paint a thin but complete coat of the PVA onto the binding channel - including the bottom edge (important) - then I do the same with the binding (again including the bottom edge) - I let it dry (15-20mins but once dry this will work even days later). You can tell it's dry because it goes clear. - and then I iron it on. I use an old heatshrink iron myself simply because MrsAndyjr1515 goes apes**t if I use her iron - but any hot iron (used dry) will do. - note no fibreglass reinforced tape. No bicycle inner tubes. AND THIS IS COMPETELY NON-TIME DEPENDANT so even here - halfway through, I can go for a coffee and comeback and carry on!!!! Basically, I position the binding in the slot and run the iron back and forward over the flat side of the binding, say, a couple of inches at a time. After 30 secs or so, I then hold the binding firm against the flat side and pressing it down to properly bottom to the channel floor (hence the gloves!) for 10 secs or so until the glue has sufficiently cooled to re-solidify the glue. - Note also IT IS COMPLETELY REPEATABLE. If after it's cooled, you realise say that there's a bit of a gap, you just iron it again until the glue melts and press it firm until it cools - once it has cooled, then it won't move again unless you re-iron it. So you don't need tape. The 6" attached above is the finished job! - once the whole length is attached, you can immediately start scraping / sanding / chiselling. There is no further glue setting time. - which is what I did. The binding on the right is where I was 1/2hr after the above photo: - and, ignoring the rookie tearout on the back wood mentioned in an earlier post, here's what the other side of the joint came out like: This method suits me personally much. much more than the first method. Just got to remember if there is ever a next time to do it this way next time!

Warning! - this thread appears to have turned into full frontal Precision Porn. If you have been affected by images viewed (GAS), please seek help now, it's never too late.

TLDR Hello. Self taught, and been playing for 40+ years man and boy... started with punk in 76. then gave it all up 25 years later as pennyless and didn't want to die like Jaco. Back to it now after a 10 year hiatus of sorts, a slower, older more considered funky shredder. Still have the LesPaul but sold all the rest of me epic gear to pay for rent over the years 😞 currently learning a set for a band called Feast on Mars on the South coast PS. If any one sees my old Vigier Passion serial 0002 PM me instantly.

Feeler gauges are the normal technique

Thanks guys. My post was a bit tongue in cheek as I have noticed my fingers going where I want them to on the fret board. I do play in our church band but am on a rota and only step up once a month with about 30 minutes of rehearsal before the morning service. It certainly focuses the mind!

It’s worth taking your time on these details looks great 👍

I’ve only got a soprano and a bass. Will they do?

I don't think I've ever seen the expression "Enjoy Huddersfield" before.

Thanks all for the input. I'm going to use the MOP. I spent most of today routing out the channels for the blocks. More or less I used @Christine's method, ie: 1. Masking tape on the back of the blocks, and the fretboard. Use centrelines to line them up. Thin superglue them in place. Score round the edge with a blade. Then VERY carefully prise them off. Very carefully. I had the corner of one break off because I went at it too quickly. 2. I found it useful to use masking tape to make clearer where the edge of the block is. Being a bit ditzy, I can very happily rout away, completely forgetting that I'm supposed to be stopping at the line. So the pink masking tape is there as a reminder! I then routed with my palm router (not a dremel) and a 3mm mill bit. I thought this stage was going to be the most difficult. Actually it wasn't. The router rode on two stacked pieces of 18mm mdf, either side of the neck and it went very smoothly. My palm router (a Dewalt, the best designed tool I own) has a light underneath so I was able to see pretty clearly. I hand routed to within 0.5 - 1mm or so. 3. Chisels to then cut up to the line. This was....less easy. Other than for prising templates off😲, I've never used a chisel in my life. I'm not even sure quite how to use them. Am I supposed to be hitting them with a malet? Just pushing then to sort of slice wood off? I used a combination of both techniques. I found that the most important thing was that they were sharp...(I'm a slow learner!).....I sharpened them before I started and half way through. Actually I think I should have sharpened them 3 or even 4 times. This was the end result... Not perfect, (and this is the best one) but I'm pretty happy. I'm hoping that epoxy and sanding dust will make up for my sloppy work....

I too will purchase used instead of ordering new from EB. The new prices are far too much along with the wait time of 12 months for it to be delivered is pathetic. It should not take 12 months for a guitar that is machined to be made and sent to the UK from the US. If it was 1918 I could understand it but not in 2018.

Ebay has got the exact same block inlay stickers that come from Japan for £7.69 with free p&p instead of £12.20 off Amazon 😀

And the pay must be really bad as he can’t even afford shoes.

You don't want to hear what I'd play to that... Wold make Brotzmann or Zorn's Japanese Noisecore sound like a lullaby!

I think the key here is that when the keys and electric overplayed on their own it sounded great and improved a bit of a bland song - when they all did it it was awful. In church bands there is a problem of musicians wanting to show off and not having learned the ability to listen and leave space for others

So, slowly progressing. Covering up mistakes with paint.

Speak for yourself! I think it's not putting in the practice and study which is the issue. How many of us have the time to spend 8 hours a day practicing? Or even the willingness to? As one esteemed Basschater said to 'you don't need to learn how to slap to play Brown Sugar'. One of Steve Lawson's teachings is 'there are no secrets, here's how it's done'.

My grandson, aged not quite 4 in this pic. And don't suggest getting him a ukulele, I already have. This is what he wants. I might try getting him an Ibanez Mikro. But when I give him the choice of any of my guitars / basses, he always says "I want the big one!" 🙂 But a good U-bass can sound surprisingly good for its size. I know a bass player who is having increasing problems with lifting weight and has gone from a P to a viola-bass to a U-bass. The U-bass sounds better than the viola imho.

Is Australia ten years behind the world when it comes to fuzz?

I went with the family to the cinema today, and to my surprise before the trailers, there was an advert for a Fender Jazz Bass! Featuring The Idles, and seemingly filmed in and around Bristol (including the room in Factory Studios that my band rehearses in!) it has the band's bassist eulogising about how great his Jazz is, with lots of close ups of a very lush yellow bass. Anyone else seen it? I think it's the first time I've ever seen a musical instrument advertised in the mainstream media.

Finished work early yesterday and drove a 330 mile round trip to pick up a Fender American Standard Jaguar Bass (I don't trust couriers, too many horror stories on here!). I've always wanted a Jaguar since the original Japanese model came out, so when I could finally afford to treat myself I started looking for one and found there was a US version, only available for a couple of years. I found a couple for sale and went for this one. Looks great, is pretty light, and plays really nicely. Looking forward to figuring out the controls this weekend!

I'll second that. You need to have some faith. Be a bass player. Walk in dem boots, and enjoy. I reckon nothing brings you on better than actual band, and gig experience. Sometimes practice at home is only like a flight simulator, you have to climb in the cockpit!!

You have two compressors next to each other in the signal chain. What is your thinking behind that?

I don't do gigs anymore so my Gorilla Stand pedal board is attached to the wall above my PC desk which makes it easier to get to with my hands rather than my feet. Providence Vitalizer FB >>> MXR 87 Compressor >>> TC Electronic Spectracomp >>> Tech 21 Sansamp Para Driver >>> Tech 21 Leeds Character >>> Tech 21 VT Bass Deluxe >>> Tech 21 Q\Strip >>> TC Electronic Hall Of Fame Reverb. All are powered by a MXR ISO Brick.

Nice to see a pointy headstock bass in 2018, damm I miss the 80's 😁

I can see you have a sense of humour.... You'll fit right in...

But just not when other band members feel like overdoing it too

If it’s worth doing, then it’s worth overdoing.

I bought the MXR Sub Octave Bass Fuzz , the first couple of days, I did not care for it at all. I came really close to sending it back. the problem was when I got the volume set for the fuzz then changed over to the octave there was a very noticeable volume drop. For me it was one of the hardest pedals to tweak, like i said come very close to sending it back. I even got on youtube and watch others use it, but you never know what amp they are using how they got the EQ set. Maybe using other pedals you never know, plus I use different amps. At church I use a SWR350 head and a SWR410 cab and line out to the board. At home and gigs I play on my own outside the church, I use a MarkBass Jeff Berlin 151p bass amp. But my problem I hate being defeated, and I am sometimes so I went in my music room and tweak and tweak and I found the sweet spot. So the only thing and I was surprised I had to just adjust the volume on the fuzz a little, the EQ was great for both amps.. Less volume on the SWR at church, and a little more on my MarkBass. Of course the MarkBass has a huge and heavey B&C 15 speaker. And some times I use an Aguilar 210 cab with it which brings it up another 200 watts 500 all together. What it comes down to and I will quit Jabbering I like the pedal a lot.

There is some good ones available on amazon that get shipped from Japan quickly £11 if I recall correctly I’ll find you the asin

Nice job. 👍

Was he the original guy?

Nothing wrong over playing. It's just choosing when to. Imo.

I should pay you money for them almost .....

I think he's probably playing the way he wants to.......

I adore P basses, but seemingly only ones that aren’t made by Fender

Really? Yeah i can think of hardly anyone who uses a precision.... I'd list them here but there's probably so few.

Just to add to Grangur's excellent advice, I've found electrical work so much easier since getting a decent soldering iron. I used to use a cheapy 30 or 40 watt stick type but bought a digital soldering station when Maplin had them half price. The extra power means the pots don't get overheated. With a low power iron the posts act like a heatsink and the solder took ages to flow nicely, with more power the solder flows almost instantly and the pots stay cool.

Here is one of my faves. Used to play it like this in a band as our last number - always seemed to come as a surprise when ti all kicked in