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  1. Yep, I settled on M5 on my builds.
  2. I have tried bleaching in the past but not too keen on it. When I tried it on a sample of sycamore previously it left a bit of a stain that looked worse than what I was trying to remove! I don't think it would do much to this particular blemish. If I want to remove this one I would remove it with a Dremel and infill it with an offcut of maple. Cheers
  3. Had an enjoyable couple of day where I've been able to get on with the neck carve. I always like this bit as the block of wood turns into something very tactile. Out with the Shinto rasp and start the shaping: This neck is a little more tricky as it is being fitted to an existing body so sanding the contours to match the body takes a bit of patience as to avoid removing any of the finish: After a fair bit of time with a mini rasp and some sandpaper I got to something I'm happy with. Only shame is there is a a small mark in the maple but that's what you can get with a natural material. Now it is starting to look really nice! Still got quite a few jobs to do - quite a few of these are decorative and I've still got to work out how to do them!! But that the enjoyment of making stuff - always something new to learn. Cheers
  4. First task is to make very obvious chalk marks on the fretboard to show where the dots will go. This is to prevent holes being drilled in the wrong place for the side dots (guess who got that wrong in the past when not paying enough attention....) One of my favourite tools is this - makes finding the centre line for side dots so easy. I then use an engineers square and a white pen to mark the side line for drilling. I drill the side holes on all my necks using a piece of right angled aluminium with a hole in it as a template. Once all the holes were drilled, I glued in some Luminlay, cut flush and tidied it up. Then turned out the lights to see how it looks. I've also fitted a small piece of the offcut from the neck rods into the back of the fretboard where the thumb rest is just to add a little more strength. With that done I'm now onto shaping the neck and radiusing the fretboard. Cheers
  5. The neck is starting to look more like it now!! I cut it roughly to size then trimmed on the router table. This is a little more difficult to do than a Fender type neck due to the angled headstock. Just takes a little more thinking about. This one is even more fiddly as it has a finger rest built into the fretboard, just needs a little patience and a bit of swapping of router bits to complete. A smidge of sanding later and it fits really nicely into the neck pocket: The headstock has also been drilled to accept the Gotoh tuners. This was done using a Forstner bit to get a really neat cut and finish - the head was clamped to an offcut of wood to ensure there was no tear-out when the bit cut through to the other side. And the fifth hole? Just decoration as I have done on my previous basses. Next task will be to fit the Luminlay side dots whilst the fretboard is still square after which I'll start the neck carve and radiusing the fretboard. Cheers
  6. That is an idea that I have been toying with but not on this build. I have tried a couple of samples of lighting both clear and frosted type plastics. Luminlay do sheets of luminous plastic sheet so I was thinking at one point of using this for fretlines.... Luminous sheet
  7. The fretboard is not stuck to the neck and I've had a go at making an aluminium nut to match.
  8. Not on this one - the fret lines are firmly secured. There are a few holes in each to ensure the adhesive really locks them in place.
  9. It won’t be a problem, I’m making the bass for Prince Andrew.
  10. Probably getting ahead of myself but decided to make the truss rod covers from ebony and aluminium.
  11. And the last few of the aluminium marks to be glued in place - I started getting into the swing of cutting and fitting them by this point!! It has taken a reasonable time but I'm hoping the effect will be worth it in the end. They do look a little messy at this stage but a bit of sanding and trimming and they'll look fine. A rough sanding of the board prior to final trimming of the neck and it's starting to look quite nice. After a quick bit of tidying of the edges with a router the board is ready for gluing to the neck.
  12. I have been thinking about that and before I fit the board to the neck, I'm going to flatten the lines when it is cooler then put the board out in the sun and see what happens! I'm hoping that as the lines aren't that big that any expansion will be minimal. I will post how it goes!
  13. Yep, but it does look nice and totally worth it!!
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