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About Jabba_the_gut

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  1. I've built a few different short scale basses now at various scale lengths 23" (headless), 27", 29" and 30" and I'm still enjoying tinkering with these!! I'm particularly enjoying playing the 27" basses so much so I'm building a 27" 5 string at the moment (on another thread). I ordered a generic neck blank and the one that arrived was quite wide, wide enough to have sufficient spare for a headless neck.... So, I'm going to make a 27.5" neck for one of the mini headless basses just to see what that is like. I'm hoping to be able to use normal short scale strings on that to achieve the right tension etc. - might work, might not!! The reason for it being 27.5"? Well, that is the scale length of a spare slotted fretboard I have, leftover as the result of an error with my measurements from a previous build...!!! I've also made a neck blank for a 17" scale neck as another possibility - that would be tuned an octave up (@ped's fault again with his picture thread of really short basses). I've got a bit more to look at with that to see how the pocket tapers with it being much shorter (i don't want to modify the body). This is the neck blank for the 5 string neck - it really is quite wide!! Next to the ruler, I've got some other laminated offcuts that will form the centre section of the neck. The shorter piece is the blank for the 17" neck made from offcuts from other necks The two necks from the one neck blank with their corresponding fretboards Note sure what the result of this will be but only one way to find out!!
  2. Hi Mike. Hope all is good with you and glad you're still enjoying the fretless! Take care and hopefully catch up at the SW Bash next year. Just watch out for @Frank Blank though.... All the best
  3. I might well take you up on that at some point. Cheers
  4. Cheers Ped. I must work out how to record it - I've got the gear but no idea!!!!
  5. I've made a couple of 4 string mini basses which I'm really pleased with so the time has come to make a 5 string version! It is going to have the same body shape as the previous build but just be a little wider to accommodate the extra string. I'm thinking of the 5th string being high rather than low - I've tried a low string on the previous basses just to see what it was like and I don't think it was quite defined enough. I will try a couple of different things before I make the final decision. Going for a more minimal look in terms of wood finish this time. The body will be ash (nearly quarter sawn), plain maple for the neck and padauk for the fretboard. Hardware will be chrome for this one. I've made a start, cut the templates for neck and body and headstock. I've also cut and trimmed the body. I've also got a body left from a previous mini bass that I have veneered the top with maple and cherry layers but haven't decided what it will become yet!! This will be another slow build as I've got loads of jobs to do around the house.......
  6. Finally took this to pieces to finish the last couple of bits off and ow it is complete!! Here's a few pictures of the finished bass:
  7. Just my opinion....... If you buy a pre-slotted fretboard, the board is generally not radiused and the fret slots will be a uniform depth. Many luthiers will use a specialist, thin circular saw to cut the slots and home builders often use the StewMac fret slotting jig, again both of these cut a slot parallel to the bottom of the fretboard and therefore when the frets are fitted, there will be a small gap behind the fret when fitted. You can get a guide that fits to a fretsaw to control the depth of cut. If you were slotting a radiused board then this would give you a slot that follows the radius. Does it make any difference? I have seen a website for a boutique builder (can't remember who) that claims these voids cold be heard but I tend to be a little sceptical and wonder if it did, could the vast majority of us notice and why do we always assume things like this have a negative impact. When a fret is fitted it is the bottom of the fret that is the contact area with the fretboard, the tang with it barbs is there to prevent the fret from coming out. Some folk will glue frets in that might fill this void, some don't. I think getting the slots in the right place as not to affect intonation is probably the most important thing and what we would notice if it wasn't correct. That's where accurate jigs like this come in. As say, just my opinion!!!
  8. I’m guessing there are two strips top and bottom running horizontally that the vertical pieces are glued to and the fretboard sits between these (if that makes sense!!)
  9. I do like their stuff - could spend ages looking though their catalogue!
  10. The Axminster ones are really good: Here's one I found earlier!!😊
  11. You should just be able to replace the EMG passive tone with the BTC unit as far as I am aware. I've used a few of them and swapped out the passive tone pot with a BTC unit or an active tone pot and this has just been plug and play (quite literally). https://www.emgpickups.com/pub/media/Mageants/b/t/btc_control_0230-0206rc.pdf
  12. Fantastic tools and couldn't live without mine. Good quality cutters, decent templates and patience are the key things in my experience.
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