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  1. I have a Titan planer thicknesser from Screwfix which is about as cheap as new ones come. I'd be inclined to avoid something like this and buy a better second hand unit. The Titan is VERY noisy, so much so that I am quite conscious as to when I use it which is limiting. I have had to replace a drive belt and a bearing on it (complete pain to do) on a unit that is three years old and pretty lightly used. I replaced it with an Axminster Craft AC250 but that is a massive leap in size and expense!! The Axminster is really quiet, not used it much so far but pleased with it for what I have done. I used a small bandsaw I got off eBay for £20 for quite a few builds and that was fine (I still use it for smaller tasks). Main thing is to get some decent blades - I've bought quite a few from TuffSaws and been very pleased with them. I mainly use a Record BS250 bandsaw now which I'm pretty pleased with. Again, decent blades make the difference. For a drill press I have used a normal drill in a stand for years (already had the drill, got the stand off FreeCycle!). That has worked well enough but I bought a small Clarke drill press off Facebook marketplace last week for £25 which is really good. Tools are one of those things you can spend any sum on (never get an Axminster catalogue as you'll end up skint!!). Whatever you choose, always spend a bit extra on things like decent router cutters, decent bandsaw blades, decent Forstner bits and drills - in my experience they are well worth the extra. Look forward to seeing your builds!! Cheers
  2. Yeah, fair enough!! I do quite like MarkBass gear - I also like having both a power switch and mute switch on the front panel. Be interested to try one of these whenever they are around.
  3. Stumbled across this the other day - they do look pretty!! MARKBASS | Products | LITTLE MARK IV
  4. Slotted both necks for the carbon rods and the truss rods. I used a couple of equal sized spacers on the router guide to give me the three different distanced from the neck edge - just adding or taking out spacers makes it easy and repeatable to cut the slots. The spacers are just two equal thickness pieces of ply. Quite pleased how these have gone so far. I've not got any basses with carbon neck rods and I've never built one with them so I'll be interested to see if I notice any difference in the end. Next job is to drill the hole for the truss rod adjuster.
  5. This is how the extended fretboard/thumb rest will sit on the final build
  6. Hi Ped, Someone posted on my thread that I had the embedding banners [img] on the BBcode which is why it didn't work. I removed these and the picture posted correctly. Not sure why the code picked up the [img] from Imgur - not sure if a setting has changed on my PC or if it was something to do with the update and just a coincidence it happened at the same time!! I'll let you know if I find anything out. Cheers again for everything!
  7. Thanks for that! I did nothing different to what I've done before so I'm not sure why it picked up the banners - I guess that PCs for you!! Some setting changed somewhere...I'll have a dig. Cheers
  8. Hi, I added a post to a build diaries thread with a picture using the BBcode from Imgur but the picture doesn't show. All the previous pictures in the thread posted the same way still display. Cheers
  9. I've made both the new neck templates for this from MDF using the old template as a starting point. It's great when you have a bunch of templates from previous builds that you can use as a starting point. The router cutter for the graphite rods has also arrived so I'll be doing a bit of experimenting to see how best to do this. I made a simple neck jig recently for slotting truss rods so I should be able to use this for the graphite rods too.
  10. Best thing today was putting a fan in the workshop - made it nice and comfortable to get on with a few things. First up was cutting the truss rod slot - took a little longer than I planned as I made a new jig for holding the neck. After that, cut the neck to size and trimmed the edges with the router. All went well, no issues so that puts me back to where I was a couple of weeks ago but this time I have a neck without a hole in it!!
  11. So a bit backward compared to normal build threads but here's a couple of pictures of the finished bass that I'm going to dismantle!! And the neck removed I've measured everything up and will need to make a new neck template as the new one will have a zero fret and a scarf joint on the headstock so the dimensions from my previous template are slightly different. I will also need to make a second neck template for the fretboard as this will extended to include the thumb rest. I've also ordered a router bit for cutting the slots for the graphite neck rods (not something I've used before but we'll give them a go on these builds) as that is one of the next jobs.
  12. Joking apart though, the great thing with making mistakes is learning. With the 5 string neck I made a hole in, I had an opportunity to try a couple of different techniques to rectify the fault which is something I wouldn’t have otherwise been able to do. So I learnt something useful from it. The neck might be okay with the fix but I decided to make a new one anyway. What I will probably do is make two necks (fretted and fretless) for the bass- I haven’t tried a 27” fretless so another opportunity!!
  13. Ok, just for you... I stuck the router bit through the neck of my 5 string short scale build so I've got to build a new neck. On this one, I took a little bit too much off the body thickness so had to buy a new body blank (it was about 1.5mm thinner than the body I have already made but I want it to be the same). And I manage to remove a couple of mm of finger nail and a little bit of skin with a scalpel when I was cutting veneers. Surely that's enough!!!
  14. Lots and lots of sanding , a few blisters and an understanding of why they call it 'hardwood', I have sanded the veneers to about 0.9mm. I then glued these to the front and rear of the headstock and clamped in place. Once set, a quick sand of the lip and marked up the centre line ready to cut the truss rod channel.
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