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honza992 last won the day on April 24 2019

honza992 had the most liked content!

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  1. Does it have a flat or carved top?
  2. Can you confirm 30" scale and weight please? Can I get more photos including any imperfections. Are you the first owner?
  3. Pietrasanta.....a bit far for me to have a go! Good luck with the sale though, looks great.
  4. Yes, smallest bottle is plenty. It's pointless buying more because it forms a skin and becomes unusable pretty quickly. I know some people recommend poking a small hole in the foil and storing it upside down, but my understanding is that tru oil hardens in contact with air, so I'd rather have guaranteed fresh oil every time.
  5. I was hoping this one was going to be finished before our move to Italy. Unfortunately I got side tracked with a hundred other things. The neck is basically finished, and finished, and looks nice! I've also glued in the neck. I used West System Epoxy because it doesn't need a perfect joint. As my first set neck guitar I was happy enough with the joint, but better safe than sorry. Some builders (Bruce Johnson for example) always use epoxy and if it's good enough for him, it's certainly good enough for me. Here it is clamped... It seemed to glue really well. Feels competely solid and the alignment and elevation at the bridge is spot on. All in all I'm pleased. I started off doing a wipe on poly (Ronseal Hardglaze) for the body and the neck. The neck turned out nicely, the body less so. I think keeping the finish very thin like I did on the neck makes it a really nice finish, almost like oil. For the body though, the more layers I put on the less I liked it - it became more and more artificial feeling. So...(as I always seem to end up doing)....I sanded back to bare wood and my plan is to French Polish with shellac. However that will have to wait till we get to Italy because I have a flat and a workshop to pack up, and two weeks to do it in. TIme to get off my lazy derrière......
  6. I think 38-40mm is my preferred thickness for a fender style body. It doesn't look weirdly thin, but is significantly thinner than a standard Fender body which can help with weight. The other limiting factor is what switches etc you want to use. That can limit how thin you can make the body. A solid mahogany P bass will come in pretty heavy though, even at 38mm. If you can weigh the block you have, I can give you a pretty accurate guess of what a final weight bass will be. I can usually get to within a couple of hundred grams!
  7. I've got so much respect for Jon Shuker, he really does lovely work. And not a CNC in site. Old Skool craftsmanship.....
  8. Fanned frets is on my list of challenges.....it looks like you've got the perpendicular fret at about 11 or 12? Can I ask how you decided to put it there?
  9. Thanks for linking to that, I've never seen one like that before. If I ever get a table saw I shall definitely be making one. Simple and elegant. Without a table saw, the other option if you have two straightedges which are the same height is simply to tape those down onto the neck. Use a guided router bit to run along one of them, and the other is there just for support. Low tech, but routers naturally 'go left', so the guided bit pushes against the left hand straight edge. Perfect straight slots (as long as you remember only to rout pushing away from you, never pulling towards, otherwise the 'left' changes sides and you slot gets wider......) The perpendicular mini straight edge is just a 'stop'.....
  10. PayPal have just refunded my money. He didn't respond to them either. Obviously there may be personal reasons for all of this, but may be worth being cautious if considering a JL pickup.
  11. @Bassassin Is this Danish or Tru-oil? If Danish, exactly which one? If it is Danish Oil then I'm surprised you were able to get such an obvious build. Here's a mahogany tele with multiple coats of Liberon Superior Danish Oil. I found that after a few (may 5 or 6?) there was really no point in going much further, it wasn't building at all and it wasn't adding to the 'depth' of the finish, so I stopped. One problem is that most finishes give you little clue as to what is actually in them. Most of them that are called 'Oils', are in fact varnishes. Really all you can do is try out each individual finish on scrap to see whether it provides the finish you like. @Andyjr1515 uses a 'slurry sand' technique which is really designed to seep into the wood (albeit to only to a tiny extent), and harden the wood itself. The slurry sanding fills in the grain but there isn't much build of finish on surface of the wood itself. This gives a natural feeling finish. The 'oil' finishes which are in fact varnishes, or varnish-like, (like Tru Oil and the Danish Oil used by @Bassassin in the photo above) can be used for this type of minimalist finish, or they can built up to give layer of finish on the surface of the wood itself. Tru oil can be built up in this way to give a completely gloss finish, or as I've done in my Tele at the beginning of this thread I've gone half way. It's definitely building a layer of finish on top of the wood, but I haven't gone completely gloss. There was a builder called 'Quarter' who built lap steel guitars and used Tru oil to get a shiny finish that from the photos looks much like nitro. The nice thing about the slurry sand technique is that you use the same stuff to finish and grain fill. So no worries about compatability etc. @Andyjr1515 Can I ask why you've moved to DO for necks? Ronseal Hardglaze and the 'slurry sand' technique also works very well, and I think is probably my preferred choice for necks if you want a hard, satin finish. It doesn't feel like wood as it does build on the surface, but it's smooth and 'cool' to the the touch. Polyurethane is harder than oil finishes, as I understand. You do have to thin it with white spirit, and it maybe itsn't as instantly easy as tru oil....
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