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honza992 last won the day on April 24

honza992 had the most liked content!

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  1. I've checked them already, they don't......
  2. As the title really, does anyone know where to get laser cut Mother of Pearl logos done?
  3. Yes, of course, I'd forgotten about the curvature. Makes sense😁
  4. Andy is there a reason you don't use your router to cut binding channels? I know I'm a believer in using ridiculous horsepower for even the smallest jobs (cutting binding on a radial arm saw...😂) but it does make for a very clean channel, and I'm not sure it's any less dangerous than using a low powered dremel and pushing it to the limit of what it can do.....
  5. I'm sure my tables aren't what you're after (useless for anything bigger than a bass), but behind is a board into which I've glued those little super strong magnets. I put all of the things I use every day so that they are right there. It works brilliantly, everything is held really securely, even the file and the heavy straight edge. It may not be pretty, but it is simple and works really really well. The screwdrivers just live in holes, and the endless rolls of tape live on a piece of off-cut plastic piping.
  6. Oooohhh benches😍😍......looooovely.....
  7. Ha ha, yes I know what you mean....It'll have MOP fret dots.....but hmmmm.....I was going to do a gold transfer logo but maybe there's room for some MOP as well...Now you've got me thinking.....
  8. Phew, the headstock binding is done. It's not perfect, but I'm pretty happy. I also routed the truss rod access cover. Still a bit of tidying up to do, but I think it's time (finally) to glue on the fretboard.....
  9. Thats great, thanks Christine. I'll have another go tomorrow.
  10. @Christine would you be able to give me some advice on binding the headstock? My first attempt was ok, but I'm hoping I can do better so I routed it off for another go. Here it is... The binding is rocklite ebano with an extra 0.5mm strip of maple veneer on the inside. On the body I glued them at the same time using titebond. It was fine, if very fiddly. What would be your advice about how to bind it and in what order would you glue the pieces on? Would you try and do it all in one go, or glue some first and let it dry so that one half of each mitre joint has got something solid to push up against, if that makes sense. Would you do mitre joints for all of them, or butt joints at the end of the curves? Also, would you try and glue in the maple veneer seperate first? Thanks so much.
  11. Believe me, I've thought of it! But I think I've decided to leave them unbound so the white/black/white in the scarf joint is reflected in the headstock slots.....though it was a bit of a battle with my natural inclination to bind everything in sight. Mrs Honza is a bit bored of it......🙄
  12. Unfortunately I've just glued binding on to the headstock so some of those lines will get covered up😮 Luckily I'm adding in 3 new sets of lines with the binding😀
  13. Wow, double binding the body, neck and headstock, is taking ages! I'm still only about a third of the way through, so to take a break from trying to get titebond sodden tape off my thumbs, I routed the headstock slots......hmmmmm...... Cutting them was slightly precarious: But I think they look lush:
  14. Thanks all for some really great advice, have a look at these lovely shavings😁
  15. Make sure you mark out the position of the bridge, and get it as near to the end of the bass as possible, that will help with neck dive. Once you've done that have a look and see which fret the front strap button is level with. Most basses have the strap button line up with fret 12 or 13. Personally I aim for fret 11 as I'm pretty sensitive to neck dive. The other critical thing is using light weight tuners. Ultralites can't be beat my opinion, and the non-USA ones are cheaper and are still great. @Andyjr1515 is yer man for funky strap button locations, but yes it will make a difference. I'm also just wondering whether the neck pocket is just a tad on the small side? Of course if you can move the bridge closer to the end of the bass, that will also make the neck pocket bigger.....
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