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Everything posted by honza992

  1. OK the binding is on. I cut some veneer for a couple of accent lines for the front and back faces.... ...then used Rocklite ebano bindings with a 0.3mm white/black/white series of stripes which will be viewed from the side. I used super glue to glue the bindings in, doing all 3 layers at the same time, apart from the lower cutaway which is a bit more difficult so I glued the black and white veneers in first then the binding itself. I've pre-bent the last piece of binding here, just prior to gluing: The superglue worked ok, but has left a little bit of staining round the sides, even with a couple of layers of shellac before gluing. I think the problem was that the superglue I used was thin, but not water thin. I've ordered some super thin CA glue from BSI, so next time it will be perfect. Godammit..... Time for a mock up.... Annoying the Jess Loureiro pickup that I ordered well over a month ago (precision in Cabronita style case) has never arrived. No nothing. I've emailed and left voicemails and no acknoweldgement of any kind. Very annoying. I spoke to Matt from House of Tone pickups who suggested they could do a custom wind in a standard guitar humbucker size. Lead time is 5 weeks or so, so in the meantime I've ordered a cheap (ish) wide spaced guitar humbucker from Tonerider and I'll stick that in in the meantime to see how it sounds. Most of the internet commenterati say that using a guitar pickup in a bass is doomed to failure, but I have my doubts. If it sounds rubbish I'll get Matt to build me a proper one.....
  2. Thanks for that, looks interesting. Would it work? Not sure. Electronics is definitely not my strong point. Luckily the amazing @BassBunny has sent me the right ON ON ON switch, so I think I'm going to run with my original plan. Thanks Bunny!
  3. That is really kind of you! You'll have pm.
  4. The body is coming along nicely, f holes now done and the sides are sanded ready to have the binding channels cut: The binding will be rocklite ebano with an white/black/white stripe on the side, and a white/black stripe on the top. The flame on the back of the body is going to be stunning! Because this will only have a single pickup (a P in a cabronita cover, from Jess Lourieiro) I've decided to play around with the electronics a bit. There's a great TB thread on using multiple different caps (https://www.talkbass.com/threads/multi-capacitor-tone-control.737912/) so I thought rather than having a pickup selector in the traditional Les Paul location, I would have a toggle switch selecting between three different cap values - 0.047, 0.001 and 0.0047. I've posted in the Repairs & Technical board about where to find a DTDP ON ON ON toggle switch that is the same size as a Les Paul pickup selector switch (most ON ON ON toggles are mini), so if anyone knows where to buy one, please let me know! So that's where I am. Thanks for looking.
  5. Sorry, this one is well due for an update. Lots of progress that I should have shared in real time, but by the time my day of arguing with a toddler has come to an end, I just don't have the energy😂🤣🙄😭 Here goes.... The neck blank is made from flame maple and sapele, with a few accent lines thrown in for good measure. I also took the time to make a proper jig for flattening one side. I've been meaning to make one for ages and I have to say it works brilliantly. It's a direct copy from Bruce Johnson on Talkbass.: The body I've decided to chamber a bit more than I have in the past. Still with a solid block for bridge and pickup, but otherwise chambered: The veneer went on in the normal way. Wine not included... The neck pocket I did in my normal way - make a template using the neck itself (albeit this is from my other build): The biggest step up for me in this build is that I have decided to do a proper mortice tenon joint. The joint isn't straightforward because it is angled in two different directions - the neck is angled back (at 1.6 degrees) and the neck itself tapers. I thought long and hard about how I could use a router to do it (my preferred technique for almost everything) but in the end decided to go old skool. Cutting the side wall with a guide placed at an angle of 1.6 degrees: Hacking at it with a chisel! Ending up with a tenon like this: After an entire morning of going back and forth, test fitting, sanding a bit, chiseling a bit, swearing a bit, I think I ended up with a joint that I am very pleased with:
  6. Ha ha ha...sorry I was being a bit slow. Thanks for the info re latching and momentary, that makes sense. I'm building a Les Paul style bass : I was reading this thread: https://www.talkbass.com/threads/multi-capacitor-tone-control.737912/ And thought it would be cool to have a capacitor selector switch in the normal style of a LP pickup selector. A rotary switch is the obvious way to go, but aesthetically I'm not sure it would fit in with the rest of the design. I like the idea of have the normal 'rhythym/treble' style selector. So the initial plan was to have an ON ON ON DTDP switch connecting to 3 different caps - 0.047, 0.01 and 0.0047. The bass is only going to have a single pickup (a P in a cabronita case) so I thought the multiple caps would add in a bit of tonal variation. Here's the diagram posted by the OP in the Talkbass thread I've linked to above. It's really a great thread, well worth a look if you're into that sort of thing. BassBunny, that one looks great. I've got a mini ON ON ON like the one on the left, but it looks ridiculous in the traditional Les Paul position. The one on the right looks much better. Any idea where I can get one? I've only been able to find ON OFF ON in the bigger size, and actually I've ordered a couple. I think I can use the ON OFF ON by permentantly have the 0.0047 connected, then using the two ON locations to add in either 0.01 or 0.047. Not quite such a neat solution as the ON ON ON and being able to select each one independently, but I think it would work. Thanks everyone!
  7. Using a piece of wire? Sorry, I'm hopeless with electronics, so not sure what that means! RS have got these two: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/toggle-switches/7346805/ Though for 'switch operation' is says latching, rather than on on on. I'm not exactly sure what that means. And this on: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/toggle-switches/0394431/ Which always says 'latching' rather than on on on. The only switches it specifies as being 'on on on' are mini ones. Which are tiny and look ridiculous! (I'm actually going to use it as a a cap selector.....)
  8. Anyone know where I can get a larger size DPDT on on on toggle switch from? There's a no end of mini toggle switches, but I'm looking for one just a bit bigger, the equivalent of a Les Paul pickup toggle. I'm building a Les Paul bass......
  9. All gone I'm afraid. None were useable by anone else - nothing I make ever has standard size neck pockets, routs or scale lengths! But they had already been recycled by me in one way or another. Mostly for experimentation either for fixtures or finishes. Bit hard to see but that Tele on the top has been planed down several times to apply different experiment grain fill & finishes. Control cavity has about half a mm at the back😮
  10. Ha ha this is a timely topic. My car is full as we type, awaiting a trip to the tip......Here's a litany of my first half dozen builds or so, each utterly utterly awful. I've been carting them round for several years in the hope that I would think of something to do with them, but I've finally admitted that they simply need to be burnt. The world will be a happier place without them. Adios.....
  11. OK, I'm doing a wipe-on finish on my Walnut Les Paul Guitar thingy, which means I have an inordinate amount of time between an inordinate number of coats. So rather than actually do useful stuff, I thought I would start planning my next build. I realise @Christine has pretty much done the definitive Les Paul bass build thread, but maybe mine will be just different enough to hold your interest. Anway, specs something like: 31" scale, 19 fret (is this too few??) Some sort of ridiculously over-laminated and accent-lined neck blank Slightly oversize Les Paul Body (though smaller than the official Gibson oversized) Slotted headstock Single humbucking pickup, probably in the 'P' position Birdseye Maple veneer top Figured Etimoe or Bosse Cedar veneer back Double bound with flame maple (umm...once I've learned to bend it) Guitar tuners Double 'f' hole Yet more pinstriping and veneering than you can shake a stick at. So there you have it. Short scale because I've never build one. I want it simple though, so I thought a single pickup would be good. I must do love the sound of a P bass though, so I'm thinking a Gibson humbucker in the P position would sound pretty similar but keep the Gibson look. Slotted headstock, because I just think they look great. The guitar tuners I'm going to try because bass tuners, even Ultralites, look a bit oversized and even they I think might cause neck dive, my pet hate. The Hofner Beatle bass uses guitar tuners, so I'm pretty confident it can be done, particularly with light-ish strings, but if anyone has done this please shout up. And they only weigh 20 grams each, ie half that of an USA Ultralite..... Veneer-wise, here's the top I'm thinking. Birdseyes. And lots and lots of them: For the back I'm thinking one of these. The first is Bosse Cedar, the second is Figured Etimoe. I've put the three together to see if you have a preference. The workshop strip light sucks the colour from everthing so here's the stock photos. Both look pretty amazing in natural light. Any thoughts? As for layout, here's a mock up of the slightly larger body and 31" scale with slotted headstock. As with the Walnut LP I'm just finishing, the lower horn is 'sharp' so that I can do a mitred joint in the binding, rather than trying to bend flamed maple (which has a reputation for splitting) round the more traditional rounded lower horn. But if I can practise a bit and I can manage it, then I may revert to the more traditional shape. So there you have it. Them's are my thoughts. This won't be a quick build cos I've still got two others to finish! But thanks so much for looking. And feel free to shout up with thoughts and criticisms🙄😎
  12. Christine, how did the Mojo pickups turn out? Are you happy with them?
  13. Happy shaving! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Single-Edge-Razor-Blades-100-Pack-Of-Blades-FREE-SCRAPER/291805443229?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648
  14. I like your optimism! I'll give it a go on a test piece before commiting myself😁 Have you ever used the pearloid celluloid type sheet that R&K sell? Do you think that might be easier than real shell?
  15. Thanks Norris, I've emailed them. I'll see what they say.....and will also try doing it myself on a test piece....
  16. Yep, this. Lots of skills and knowledge which I really wish I had! Really looking forward to this one....
  17. Thanks everyone, I really appreciate the compliments. 😁😍 They're definitely premature though. I've learned not to count my guitar making chickens till they are well and truly hatched. The process of finishing, in my experience, is fraught with danger! The plan for the body is an epoxy grainfill followed by a hand applied polyurethane varnish, probably to a low gloss finish. The neck will be wipe on poly again, satin. i've tried all sorts of grain fill methods and not enjoyed any of them. So I'm returning to epoxy, which I thnink is the best of a bad bunch. I'm using West Systems and tinted it with Mixol dark brown and a bit of black to make it darker still. Ive done two coats on the back and it is smoooooth.....one more on the front and I'm done. This time it's gone pretty well. The thing that's really made the difference is using a razor blade to spread a tiny amount of epoxy. For the entire back of the body I probably used about two pea-sized drops, maybe less. The razor blade is really effective at spreading the epoxy around without pulling it out of the pores. I rounded off the edges of the blade slighly so there was no chance of them digging in, and slightly dulled the blade using 400 paper on a very flat surface. It worked really really well. These are the type blades I used: Here's a photo of mid fill, I love the way you can see the difference between grain that hasn't been filled, and the grain with the brown epoxy. It does a great job of highlighting....
  18. Yes, sorry. I feel bad now☹️ But the next one definitely definitely definitely will be a bass. 😁
  19. Mostly pics today. The neck is pretty much finished. It ended up with an interesting scarf joint - I'm not sure I've seen one like it before! Other than that, it's mostly just little jobs before finishing. There was bit of a chip in the binding so I repaired it using epoxy and black furniture powder. It seemed to work pretty well. I may use it to grain fill....time to do a few more experiments. Finally I did the pickup routs. Me being me I decided to rout the neck heel at the same time. So I double sided taped the neck in, cut the side off the template, and whizzed away, praying the tape didn't fail! A test fit and the pickup ring was right up against the end of the neck. Perfect!
  20. I've been meaning to go to a BB for ages, but what with one thing and another just never made it. We leave for Italy in March though, so it'll have to be before then. Anyone one know, is there one???
  21. Progress.....but still a bit of tweaking needed.....
  22. I've always wanted to do a zero fret, but never quite dared. I don't know what template you use for slotting, but most are designed for fretboards that are cut off or Fender style, rather that a zero fret (which effectively lengthens the scale length by half the kerf width of the saw). How is the intonation? I'm guessing the extra 0.3mm doesn't make much difference....
  23. No problem. As you've discovered there is always a next one! And actually I think round overs on your design is better. It has almost a Carl Thompson feel to it. It's great that you're doing your own thing.
  24. Yes, plastic is probably the easiest. R&K have what they call celluloid binding which bends more easily that most of the cheap plastic stuff out there. Or if you want an ivoroid style then I recommend the one from David Dyke, it's more attractive than the one R&K sell. For plastic binding your basic choices are either to glue using pure acetone (I buy it in small bottles from Sainsbury), which is probably the easiest method, or with a glue like Uhu Hart, which is what I now use for plastic. There's a good video here: The advantage of using acetone is that you can get the binding stuck down with tape first, and get your mitres and curves sorted before doing any gluing. The disadvantage is that acetone may not be that good for you, and also you can find that slightly discoloured acetone (from the binding) can run down the side of the guitar and into the end grain. The other option may be to use thin CA glue I guess, though I haven't used it with plastic binding, so test on scrap first. I've used CA with wood binding, and it worked great. Uhu Hart glue is acetone based, I believe, but because it's thick you don't have the issue of it running down the side. I still tape off though down the side to ease clean-up. If you haven't done binding before, it's definitely a step up in terms of building difficulty. Rout the channel in several passes. Oh, and I don't know how Fletcher gets away with using so little tape. For a Tele size body I cut 60 (yes 60) 3 inch strips and they all get used. You;ve got some pretty tight curves so that will be pretty much solid tape. Get them all cut first before you start gluing and do the whole body in one go. You don't want to get half way and run out of pre-cut strips. If you do use acetone, resist the temptation to take the tape off too soon. I used to take it off the day after doing it and occassionally in places I would find the binding was still a bit soft, particularly parts that were under tape. So be strong and wait another night!
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