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  1. Regarding the neck. I would have just lacquered it, made it smooth. So you could still see the wear but not feel it. I've done similar on a bass before. I think the neck shaving while done well was too much. It was almost done to just look good on TV. That wear and patina was from his dads playing and should of been kept. You wouldn't shave the neck on a Hendrix guitar now would you. Not sure if refret was necessary but least now it's good for many more years. Action at the end looked a bit high. A good restoration but for me it taken away some of the soul, mojo, whatever. There are often things restored on that program with an eye to keeping the wear from a past owner.
  2. I want to start learning to do some routing. Just pickup and simple electrical cavities. Nothing fancy. A few years back I did have a brief go, before selling the tools. And I just can't remember what I bought or details. Recommended me a suitable router, bits and templates. What size bits are best. I think these will be occasionally use rather than every day work. Where is the best place to buy?
  3. I had a USA sub. Came in a neglected condition to say the least. I Leveled the frets and interestingly had to go over the g side once more. And I think if I remember it did take a good week long of fettling to get it right. Possibly the answer was the rosewood board was very dry and after oiling it had moved somewhat. It's a common occurrence on dry boards that are oiled around the time of a fret level. Interesting that both our USA subs had g side issues. Another thing I've seen is buzzing caused by musicman saddles. The strings pull the saddles to one side more on some models the usa sub being one. That rattle can almost be mistake for buzzing. So playing about with the saddle might be worth a look. Also on my sub indeed a tuning head also rattled, finally tracked down as it was the actual knob part very slightly loose from the stem. Some gentle plier work and quality glue fixed it. If I remember right my usa sub achieved a approx action of 2.2 - 2mm e to g measured at the 15th fret, with a neck relief of approx .010 measured at 7th fret in normal relief manner. That's the very best I felt it could achieve without overly delicate playing. So pretty much a good standard setup. In comparison a vintage pre ernie ball ray and a new(ish) standard ray i did achieved only slightly better setup results after fret/setup work, approx 2.2 - 1.8 e to g and .009 neck relief. Not sure why the other models were marginally better as the USA sub is quality.
  4. Having had some experience of the 2 and 3 band. I say go for it, its not hard to change back. I like the 2 band eq but in certain situations i imagine the extra control can help you find a good tone faster. And I think both 2 and 3 eq sound great!
  5. Is the cavity shielded in any form? If so this also needs to be grounded. Else you can act like an antenna. So ground wire from cavity to where the bridge wire connects. As demonstrated recently after I fitted a pre amp to a basschat members bass. Loud buzz even when bridge was grounded. So extra ground from cavity fitted.
  6. Slight update. As well as setups, fret work and refrets, some electrical work, cosmetic damage. I now can do solid colour refinishing, some metallic and candy colours. Neck refinishing. Also snapped neck repairs. Mobile setups and minor fret work NE England. Will be hoping soon to learn routing work, modifications.
  7. Correct setup sequence is nut height, neck relief. Then string height via the saddle, if the saddle is at its minimum and still the string height is too high only then should the neck tilt adjust be used (or a shim added on non tilt adjust instruments). After all this then intonation adjusted. Adding neck tilt should be kept at the minimum required for correct saddle adjustment. Too much tilt and the string to fretboard angle changes to much in relation to each other and it becomes harder to get a low action.
  8. Push down on the string behind the nut, while doing so play the open string in question, if the noise stops it's the nut slot cut too wide for the gauge. Or the break angle from nut to tuning peg isn't enough, this sounds possible since you have changed the bridge. Fix is to have more string raps around the tuning peg.
  9. The commonly told story on the name. After a naming competition in a bass magazine on the new Warwick bass, a violin maker also named altus threatened legal action. This was after Warwick spent money on advertising. So it become the Warwick F.N.A. Formerly named altus or apparently in the Warwick factory F***ing not altus. These have fairly thin necks if im right? Bass looks really nice! No spare funds unfortunately.
  10. You can hardly get a pbass tone wrong. It has one position of pu, and 2 controls. It's hard to mess up. An active bass with 2 or more pickups, multi coil taps, multi eq. Is naturally, but not always going to be that bit more of an unknown quantity and have a wider range of tone which isn't a bad thing at all.
  11. Indeed. But most people including me have said they have heard no difference in the different ways to string up. But now I have.
  12. Well for the first time there's been a difference in stringing through the body vs the bridge. I was surprised. Got some eb cobalt flats the other day. Today was the first time I've had a good play on them. Couldn't get a good string balance in volume/tone. No matter what I did with the pickups, setup etc. The E especially and the A was louder and the e was weirdly over bassy, if you can have such a thing haha. This is on a Ibanez atk 400. So thought I would try stringing through the body. Got as far as the e and a and the volume balance is good and the tone is more even. The bass is now more equal. There is a clear difference. There has been no difference in sustain at all. Going to leave the other strings, I like the balance now. Im wondering if it's due to the eb cobalt strings or the atk bridge as stringing through bridge is not actually through the bridge it's more ball slotted into the bass bridge plate. Anyhow it's the first time ever I've heard a difference at all. On another note I'm not sure I do like the cobalt flats now, but at 45 odd pound there staying on! Maybe they will improve.
  13. Well I finally got some eb cobalt flats myself. Only a few years since I said I was going to haha. What a pain fitting the e string. Silk was too thick at the ball end for fitting, either in the bridge or through body (Atk 400). So had to adjust the silk. The other strings were fine. Lots of creaking going on while initially tuning up, more than any other string I've heard by far. Didn't get much time to play them but first impressions are good. Nice and bright, good feel. I like that there slightly grippy, a bit like half rounds. Good output in volume. Tone wise I suppose there a bit like a slightly played in roundwound. Be interesting to see how they develop. Hopefully they will last a good while. The Fender flats I like, I only get 2 months maybe 3, out of them before I feel they start to decline too much for my liking.
  14. I know what you mean about the losing confidence thing. But I really think that repair might actually come out stronger than before. And it's such a nice instrument. But if you do move it on, then it's understandable. On another note I know people are busy with other things, Jon will have a lot on I'm sure. But it shouldn't take months to get a repair done. Im not having a go at anyone btw. Hopefully it will be back with you soon.
  15. Wanting to fit a jazz neck on my mim fender pbass. Preferably a actually fender or licensed neck. However anything considered as long as its in good working condition. So truss rod fully working, not twisted and so on. And obviously must be able to fit on my bass without hassle.
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