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  1. Very generally if frets are in good level condition, nut correct height and the neck pocket angle is correct, then string buzz in the first 5 to 7 frets is too little neck relief and ones buzzing after that is string height at the bridge. Sometimes if only one string is buzzing then possibly there's a partially high fret somewhere. Can also be a warped neck. That's worst case scenario. Or a unlevel neck pocket. Check neck relief first.
  2. Unfortunately no way of knowing till its properly looked at. Certainly these do have an bias issue, it could certainly be a bad valve from shipping. Or it could be the seller knew it was funny. Could have cracked a board in transit or any number of other solder joints. I would be inclined to want a full refund. If you got it at a really good price then maybe yeah take it to a tech or if and only if your competent have a look yourself. Bare in mind that you can get seriously electrocuted when an amp has been off for a long time nevermind biasing it while on! The biasing I doubt will of changed during transit so more likely a valve(s) issue. Thats if the seller is honest and it was ok prior to sending. However if it's not the valve(s) then the seller can say you've messed with it and refuse to refund you. And your left out of pocket. It could be a valve came unseated slightly. I suppose that can be checked easy enough. Once again I can't stress enough that you can be electrocuted badly!!! Even while the amp is off. I know because I've been zapped by capacitor discharge and was lucky not to of been seriously hurt, and it also totally broke the amp. And I would say that I've got a fair bit of experience, rebuilt a valve amp and so on.
  3. Re Ashdown Was at a multi band thing last year, just spectating I may add. They were having issues with the provided pa and no bass was being put through. Different bands had different equipment, up steps one bass player with a rik and old mag 250 1x15 combo. I thought no way, no way. I even sent a joke about the impending situation to a fellow bc member. Had to eat my words. Sounded fine and clearly heard. Band were not the loudest, certainly not quite though and it wasn't a large venue, semi open marque. I was impressed. I collard the bassist after and he said "he had never had to turn it up that loud before in 15 odd years" or something like that. In isolation it may not of been the best but it worked in a band.
  4. Atk didn't really do the stingray thing imo of previous owning one think it was a 400, plus working on a couple more. Lower and Higher end versions. Certainly doesn't feel like a ray either. Sub ray 4 electrics in old versions are not great imo, due to clipping issue. You have to lower the pickup extremely low or mod electrics for eq to be fully useable. I've played an older one and a newer one. Other than that there alright, lovely slim neck, tone isn't bad, looks and feels like a ray. Seek out later China ones or newer versions with sterling on headstock and not large sub lettering if possible. These are ones with the better electrics. Might be best option if on budget. The original Ebmm USA sub stingrays are pretty much the real thing, made in same factory, made with many of the same parts sounds like any other modern 2 band eq ray. Prices range from 300 to 500. Although people are trying to get as much as possible for them these days, might be a bargain still to be found. Used sterling 24 or 34 models of course too. You could mod any number of ray copies with the exact same pickup position,style electronically to get that sound.
  5. Think most of the basses posted already come in the most interesting looking basses group 😁. I also think that sometimes you have to see and if possible hold something in person to really enjoy its form. As these instruments posted are often like or are a form of art.
  6. I think pro and cons if any would be player dependent. Though from a setup string height point of view flatter boards tend to be able to get a tiny bit lower than the more normal radius boards and especially compared to vintage radius 7.25
  7. I had an eb0 that other than the tone, and maybe the bridge I really liked. What was the difference?
  8. Was thinking of doing some experimenting with a rear twin jazz pickup. Bar magnets mounted to the bottom of pole pieces. E string magnets are just smaller snapped bits of magnet. Would it be worth removing the weak bar magnets and attaching little neodymium ones?
  9. RIP Kenny Rodgers

    1. SpondonBassed
    2. lowregisterhead


      I never realised that Kenny played bass until a friend shared this clip of The First Edition - he's sporting either a late 60's Tele or an early 50's P but I'm afraid I'm not suitably qualified to tell the difference. I'm sure someone will tell us...


  10. Yeah something like that, I seen a arbor like mine in the 1987 catalogue so maybe that was there last year, Hohner Marlins started 88 I think. There is there is a marlin slammer model very similar to this arbor sb420. So I suppose marlins taken over the arbor budget range and maybe some more penny pinching taken place. By the way I do find this sort of info interesting. Soon enough we may long for the halcyon days of talking about this kinda thing ha. Wouldn't mind an old Horner professional.
  11. Tempted to suggest Elvis Costello. Waiting for the end of the world. Rem. It's the end of the world as we know it. The Smiths. Panic Lol
  12. Serious fret board to neck issue. Adjusting the truss rod with strings on may actually damage it further! The truss rod needs to be set so the neck is straight then the repair to the fret board glued, clamped and left, Before strings are attached imo. Don't put to much glue in the truss rod cavity. Then worry about cosmetics. If the bass had a removable neck I would of offered to fix for free. As I'm nice like that. I believe that lacquer is just cracked. Franklin's original wood glue is excellent for neck repairs. And makes a stronger than wood bond it also sands and polishes nicely and doesn't mind being bent in the degrees a neck goes through.
  13. From angle of picture that not is way to short. It should clear the fret board more. With the screw adjusted correctly the strings look as if they will be on the fret board. Never mind clear the frets. Obviously I'm just going on the pic angle.
  14. I've thought about this and I honestly can't give a trully satisfactory answer. If you look at fender setup specs a 7.2 radius relief and string heights is much higher than for flatter boards. So they obviously also think this. And in practice I've had a few fender 7.25 radius basses came my way, and indeed they never setup as well as I would normally get a 9.5 radius. I can get them better than fenders specs but never better than the 9.5 basses. They seem to choke up easier and intonation seems harder to get right despite nothing being wrong with the instruments and being able to be adjusted in the same way as any other bass. I do have the theory that when you pluck the string side ways that there a slight interaction with the more extreme radius and the vibrational arc. That just isn't there with a flat board.
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