Maude

It's was quite high when I made him an offer, but as soon as he accepted it I relaxed again. I haven't actually tried any yet. 🙂

They're on ebay at the mo for £12.99 but an offer of a tenner is auto accepted.

I have no idea what these are like but I've used their electric bass flats and they're alright really, not the best but perfectly alright. Black Dog Music are selling Olympia doublebass sets for a tenner. They may be of use to somebody and may even be a decent string. Anyway here's the link https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F390439584066 🙂

I just thought I'd mention here that Olympia flatwounds are on ebay for £12.99, but I just made an offer of £10, just to see, and it was automatically accepted, I don't really need them but they'll get used. So if you want to try flats on the cheap then see how low an offer you can get away with, or just offer a tenner and they're yours. 😎 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F332486029353

When it comes to stands I just go Hercules every time. Yet to have anything fall off or over yet.

One of the best voices the rock world has ever witnessed with a visceral scream that could tear plaster of the back walls of the club, wild flailing guitar chords with enough anger buried in them to start a fight at fifty paces accompanied by basslines that cut to the very bone such was the aggressive nature of the tone, all backed by a madly hammered out set of beats that were constantly on the verge of going off into a cacophony of out of time noise and yet always kept just on the right side of in time. Ah yes, The Who were definitely something special. But this new one's nice enough to have on in the background while I dunk a couple of custard cream into my milky tea.

The only reason I can see not to use laminate worktop, and it might not bother you anyway, is that the surface is harder and more slippery than a wooden surface, stuff tends to slip around a bit, piece of carpet would fix that though but it's worth bearing in mind.

If anyone's in any doubt about these PJB headphones being the same as the cheaper Edifier ones, this is the lead that came with the PJB ones that just arrived from Guitar Guitar.

I used to use an Akai Unibass in a power trio years ago. It can add an octave higher, with or without distortion and also add a harmony note to the octave up. I now realise this was a bit daft but I was in epic rock god territory when the guitarist soloed. I had a bi-amped bass rig with the lows fed to a 2x15 and the highs to a 4x12, but also had a 2x10 guitar amp in a cabinet between the two, so rack mount Peavey Max pre amp, graphic and stereo power amp on top of a 4x12 on top of a guitar amp in a cabinet on top of a 2x15, all cabinets were home built so they all matched. The Unibass would send an octave up with a 5th added to the overdriven guitar amp and the bass to the rack unit to be split between the two bass cabs. My back problems aren't from lifting all that but rather that it fused most of my vertebrae together with sheer rawk power 😁

Only just got round to looking into this again. Thanks @PaulWarning for the link, and @la bam for the advice. My unit is a Pulse one and is different to that but I have found a link to a Pulse unit with the same controls, but it still makes no sense http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/577134.pdf Through using that manual, trial and error and pure bloody luck I have found that setting switch 2 on the 'function' bank to on I can then use switches 1-9 on the 'pattern' bank for three intensities of red (1-3) green (4-6) and blue (7-9) or any mix of. That'll do for me as I only need a light wash of one colour.

Yes, no finger noise at all. They almost sound like rounds but don't have any of the clatter on an acoustic.

I would imagine if you turned a giant dish on a lathe (I assume that's the plan) then you would have to plane a flat lengthways in line with the neck in order for the strings to have a flat run. In order to have enough depth for a decent neck pocket and the a flat top for string clearance you would need to start off with a very thick slab of wood. The curve from top to bottom (as you would wear it) of a lathed dish bass body would be fine for your plan but the curve from bridge end to neck end is going to need some clever planning.

Hello all, I just picked up a cheap LED par can secondhand, sometimes I get stuck in a corner and could do with a little ambient light to see between songs, not often but it's handy to have in case. I want to run it separately from our other lights and just have a dim wash of one colour, no fading or colour changing. My question is, do all lights use the same generic settings of the dip switches on the back or do I need to find some instructions for it somewhere? This light has a bank of four switches labelled 'Function' and another bank of ten labelled 'Pattern', and two knobs labelled 'speed' and 'music'. I had a play and it doesn't make sense to me, but I have absolutely no clue about these things. Can I just set the switches so it's on a dim green every time it's switched on, or does it not work like that? Thanks in advance for any help offered. 🙂

I'm currently making a clear Plexiglass ramp for my 4005. The pickups being so far apart, one butted up to the bridge and the other touching the neck means I can't use them as an anchor point for my preferred plucking position. Also the design of Rickenbacker toaster pickups is that they are mounted on top of the surface rather than in a routed cavity so the strings clear the front of the bass by a good inch. So I'm making a clear ramp that fits from one pickup to the other and nestles against the scratchplate so it'll hopefully nearly disappear. It'll be more thumb anchor than ramp but it'll stop the weird times when I've managed to catch a finger under the string in battle as well.

Bugger, I've just bought the headphones.