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Showing content with the highest reputation on 23/02/18 in all areas
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6 points
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I can't help but read this thread title in an Irish accent.5 points -
Having played both, I much prefer unlined. Either way you will still need to use your ears and if you are going to use the lines then you'll be staring at the fingerboard. A quality unlined should have side dots probably at the 'fret positions' 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 12 etc. and, if you need to look, they are easier to see than the fingerboard lines would be. Worse still is when a lined fretless has side dots in between the 'fret positions' - that is really very stupid in my view and is worse than no help.4 points
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The59Sound does have a point though. There's something terminally sad about musicians (especially) being proud of their ignorance of modern music. Just like the old fart prog rockers when punk came along. It was a bad look then and it's still a bad look now. You don't have to like new music. But please don't be revel in your lack of knowledge.3 points
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Two I know of are, Bombskare and the Amorettes,3 points
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BassChat: The Movie - News Tinseltown reels as Brit-flick provisional cast list leaked: Chris O'Dowd as: Kiwi Zachary Quinto as: Ped Christopher Plummer as: The Bass Doc / Sir Charles Lytton Yul Brynner as: Happy Jack Alan Bennett as: Billy Apple Brian Blessed as: Dad3353 / Prince Michael Bakunin3 points
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. Time to clear some stuff again as I really don't use my fivers !!! So for sale or trade for a 6 stings bass ONLY : STANFORD B 61 CM 5 FL OP (lined fretless) with brand new Thomann Jumbo Acoustic Bass Hard Case, brand new Thomastik Acoustic Bass Set AB344 + AB34035 C-String (tuned from E to C) and an used (but still good sounding) set of D'Addario EPBB170-5 (so it can be tuned to B to G) ! A really good sounding acoustic lined fretless bass which sounds also very good plugged : you won't believe it's the "low cost" version of the FURCH... Shipping included to your place in these European countries : Andorra, Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France (excluding French overseas departments and territories), Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom. Parcel shipped in ultra well protected box will be fully insured with tracking number. Asking price for a straight sale : £665 GBP or €750 Euros !!! Asking value in case of trade : £760 GBP or €850 Euros !!! This bass will cost you around £1.020 GBP or €1.150 Euros, with all that is included so grab this opportunity. PayPal payment (Friend payment or fee covered), bank transfer (IBAN and BIC codes provided, so no fee) or cash on collection. In fully working condition, with some very light use. Here are the specifications tuned from E to C (the action could vary slightly when tuned from B to G) : Scale : 34 inches. Strings spacing at nut : 9 mm Strings spacing at bridge : 18 mm Action : 2,5 mm under the E string at 12th fret (very low for an acoustic bass) Strings : Thomastik Acoustic Bass Set AB344 + AB34035 C-String Tuners : Stanford (Gotoh type) Bridge : Rosewood Pickup : Nautilus Spectral Electronics : Volume Neck : 1 piece mahogany set neck Fretboard : rosewood lined fretless (original) Dots : abalone on the side at the exact fret position Nut : plastic Trussrod : one Body : big jumbo mahogany with cutaway + very nice grain solid cedar top with faux tortoise binding on front and back Headstock : 3 + 2 Land of craftsmanship : Europe Weight : 2.5 kilograms (very light) Very well balanced, and really great sounding acoustic fretless bass with a nice mwah which could be more pronounced with non bronze strings. Will come with a brand new hard case with its two keys. Non smoking environment as usual. The bass has been fully set up professionally by Christophe LEDUC (the nut can accomodate E to C as well as B to G tuning without any modification), the trussrod is fully working and the bass has a new battery as well as a new Thomastik strings. What you see is what you get ! Look at the pictures to see the real condition. Absolutely no damage, only very light wear of time and playing (one tiny mark on the top as pictured). Don't hesitate to ask for more. Link : http://stanford-guitars.com/guitars/lo-freak/stanford-b-61-cm-5-string-fretless/ Here a video of the FURCH 4 fretless which is very similar in sound (mine sounds even better because of the Thomastik's) : Here the FURCH 5 fretted to give you an idea of how it sounds acoustically : Dust is offered. Now the real pictures : look at the woods !2 points -
Probably my favourite 'normal' bass player, and quite an influence on me a few years ago.2 points
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Just watched some rapper (someone Lamarr) (I guessed at the double "r") Appeared to have backing track problems at the start, every other word bleeped out no doubt due to language and all this whilst his mate smashes up something Lamborghini looking with a baseball bat. You know what? I'm glad I'm old😤2 points
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I've had both and prefer unlined mostly but I do get a bit lost above the 9th fret I like this idea2 points
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Where is JTUK nowadays anyway? Looking at the website, The Crossfire gig calendar seems quite healthy. (Don't know if that's related to his BC and CF absence or not)2 points
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These are really great units. I get the impression people think they're inferior in some way, because they are cheap. Not so - I used mine as an 'always-on' preamp and it was astounding. Everyone should have one in their gig bag. Along with a Behringer BDI-21.2 points
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I know, bloody crazy isn’t it 🤪 That’s so cool about my no. 1 starting you off on your Vigier quest. Sweet!! As for my new one, I’ve been lucky enough to secure an artist endorsement with them so, I’m getting it directly from Vigier and High Tech Distribution. So excited. Really cannot wait 😉2 points
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In Logic, I spend a lot of time with EQs and my personal fave seems to be the API take on it. Very simple but very musical EQ. With regards to the EQs found on bass amps, I generally find them particularly frustrating because they aren't as useful as I think they should be. For a lot of people, EQ is about drawing shapes whilst shifting sliders or thinking "I need more bass, or low mids..." and then just tweaking the appropriate knob. Amazingly, alot of people don't appreciate the frequencies that they are dealing with - and bass guitar frequencies are not as low as they think - because it's the harmonics and not the fundamentals which are produced at volume through bass rigs. In reality, without understanding the impact that the room is having on the sound and the fact that a lot of tweaking with narrow notches is the answer to many troublesome rooms. If in doubt, leave it flat... because it is bound to sound better than an ill configured EQ. Swamping bass and nasal boosts are going to do your band no favours.2 points
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And I've just had the sofa pic of mine!!!2 points
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I thought I was the only one ...2 points
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It hasn't hit my radar in years. Is it still Sam Fox and Mick Fleetwood?2 points
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Remind me never to supply goods to your address Andy. I'd hate to end up beneath your patio with the others. Heeheehee2 points
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A B027XXX serial number usually means the instrument is from 1988. Those B027XXX serials generally aren't in the EBMM database, however, you could try submitting the number without the 'B' prefix - that might produce a match. Other than that, you can take the neck off to check; there will be date stamps in the neck pocket and on the neck heel. Pots are also stamped with a date code although that's less accurate as they would sometimes use up stock from previous years. Often there is also a sticker on the back of the volume pot with a handwritten date on it. I agree with drTStingray about values. Condition and originality are key. OHSC is definitely a plus, if it is indeed the original one. You don't see many StingRays from those years with the original case, at least if they were originally purchased this country. Someone from Strings & Things who already worked for the company back then once told me that in those days the instruments were usually imported in a fortified shipping box/container and held in place by some sort of neck brace. Other importers/distributors may have handled that differently - for instance, my 1992 Sunburst SR4 bought from new at a shop in Germany did come with the original case.2 points
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I’m female! Are there any more of us on here? I’ve had a few comments at gigs before about how big my bass is but I’m sure it’s that I’m small compared to most male players 😂2 points
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Basically, how big is your ego? Si2 points
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Harsh. Kendrick Lamar is (so I'm told) and artist, and therefore open to criticism.2 points
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I wish I were able to say "we'll see if you're right" but I'm not likely to be here in 20 years time. I have no problem with your liking his performance, you shouldn't really have a problem with me not liking it.2 points
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Hi Guys, Not too crazy about selling that one that was (I thought) a keeper, but funds are needed for other purposes. So here we go, I am selling/trading my beloved Lull T4. originally acquired new from Bassdirect in 2011, the T4 has followed me over the last 7 years (recording and touring) with E-grand. It can be seen in action here: youtube.com/watch?v=4D19h_L22QA That bass is rock solid, weight 3.6kg and delivers a superb sound. Colour is trans orange, neck is lacquered, mahogany body/neck, nice wood grain (fretboard/body), plek'ek,... Few superficial dings/scratches are there (hard to capture in pictures), as the bass as been extensively played but not abused. Provided will original receipt, original supplied hard case and full traceability. I am after €2500 ONO I will be happy to consider a trade/part trade on something like a FanoPx4, a 89-91's Stingray with lacquered neck/6bolts-plate, a decade with chi-sonic/darkstars, even a cool precision, etc, ... No vintage (i.e era <80) for me. Jazzmaster and jaguar guitar could also work for me. Bass can be shipped within the EU fully insured1 point -
I grabbed a body from Guitarbuild and the build has started. As per my other builds, the nitrocellulose lacquer has been sprayed at home (with me holding the body out of my kitchen window while applying the various coats!!). I applied the colour in the same way Fender did in the early days. : First step - lots of fine sanding!!! Step 2 - lightly bleach the alter body. Fender didn' do this on their ash bodies at the time as they took colour very easily. Alder naturally goes an orangey shade when you apply clear coats of lacquer- the bleaching process was to provide a lighter base colour. Step 3 - wipe on yellow stain to the bare wood body (and lightly sand again). Step 4 - clear sealer coats of lacquer Step 5 - tobacco brown burst and edges applied. Step 6 - apply clear top coats. Then, everything was left for 3 weeks to allow the lacquer to thin out and sink into the grain of the wood. Then, ideas time to finely send the surface using wet & dry paper. I started with 800 gtadevto lightly scuff the surface. Then, on to 1200 grade. I then followed up with 1500, then 2000, finishing with 2500 grade. The body was then buffed to a shine using Met auto polish (great stuff- leaves no residue on the surface). The rear ferrule holes were then cleaned, and the large diameter inserts installed. Next step will be getting a neck made and lacquered - I'll do that after the Christmas madness has passed.1 point
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Extremely rare and highly valuable, much sought after. PMd with offer.1 point
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Can I come for a fortnight.... around mid-summer? lol1 point -
Come whenever you want. You can stay overnight and play it :-)1 point
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I would go with unlined with side dots.1 point
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I don’t disagree with them, I just have a different experience. I have played lined fretless more than unlined but I still feel happier, more in control and better intonated on unlined. The OP will have to decide for himself.1 point
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See if Ashdown will send you an 8 ohm speaker for you're combo1 point
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It copes really well, I stack a lot of dirt and it all came through as articulate as I expected. But that undoubtedly is also due to the Subway pre which is a great bit of kit.1 point
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I have the B1-Xon. I bought an adaptor from Ebay for mine which worked fine, then I put it on a pedalboard and ran it from a standard multi power supply, equally with no problems. However, I had it for a few months first on only batteries, and I used it a fair bit without having to change them. I wish I used mine more, but I don't currently play much music that requires FX, and because I've mounted it on a board setup, it makes messing about with it at home less practical without pulling it all apart. I do like the drum machine/loop functions when I have played with it though.1 point
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I have a MacBook that I bought in 2010. I have upgraded the RAM and that is all. It still works perfectly. In this time, I have burned through 6 Dell/HP/An.other laptops at work. You do get what you pay for.1 point
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@super al both - DD#2 loves peppa pig and we are staying in southampton hilton1 point
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I've just had a delivery of a new bass from https://bassfreaks.net MARUSZCZYK ELWOOD L5A-24 'MAPLE BURL' terrific service from Pierre. Looking forward to getting home after work!1 point
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That looks like a total metal monster. Where are you based?1 point -
I haven't tried the One10s but they won't sound the same as the Two10. The crossover in the Two10 low-passes the signal to one of the speakers, so only treble coming from one. Not so with the One10.1 point
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I think it's basically one of these but with a few detail/hardware differences: Cimar was Ibanez' parent company's budget brand & shared some crossover in styling. I think most of them came from a different factory, who presumably sold slightly differently specced versions under the Seiwa brand. I've encountered Seiwa before but never seen one of these. Interesting.1 point
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There ya go...1 point
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Tony Levin's gorgeous double stopped bassline on Peter Gabriel's "Don't Give Up". http://youtu.be/pIsf8EEeTFc1 point
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Stunning bass and bargain price! Won't be here long1 point -
The problem is that what sounds good at home playing by yourself sounds pretty crappy in the mix, so for me I will do the scoop thing at home, but in a band situation it’s pretty flat, and any minor tweaks will be on the bass itself1 point
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Nice bench1 point
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So will Fred West, but I’m not about to start burying people in the walls of my house just to be remembered! Just because someone will be remembered doesn’t mean everyone has to like them. Opinions vary, that’s what make discussion boards interesting!1 point
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I bought myself a fretless about 3 months ago. Although the unlined ones are doubtless more aethetically pleasing I went with lined because I thought it would be easier to get to grips with. And judging by my fumblings with the lined fretless, I'd have no chance with an unlined. At least when my fingers slip up the neck and knacker my intonation I have a clear reference to get back to.1 point
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I had one just like this, in a 5 Star Case just like this!1 point -
nice - i'm getting more and more tempted to pull the trigger on an alpha omicron!1 point
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I decided that I'd craze the finish on the body - to give a lightly aged look, but still keep it looking shiny for now. (The bass will get any knocks and wear from gigging and playing over the coming years). Anyhow, when I've cracked the lacquer in the past, it's been on guitar bodies - which I've just stuck in my freezer overnight. The size of a bass body doesn't fit into the compartments of my home freezer, so I had to think of another method of crazing the lacquer. By chance, I'd met a plumber who was talking about freeing stuck pipe connections. He said, "when that happens, you just spray one part with Crack It spray. That instantly freezes the part and breaks the stuck connection". It turns out that this plumbers aerosol reduces the surface to minus 45 degrees. I got a can myself from a local Toolstation. All you have to do is get the lacquer warm, then simply spray the aerosol on the surface. You can sometimes hear the lacquer crack. Anyhow, the end result is a nice crazed lacquer. As the plumbers spray has an oil in it, you need to clean the surface afterwards using a rubbing compound (I used Mer Car Polish). I've heard that some folk use aerosols of compressed air to reduce the temp. I might try that on my next build? Here are some pics of some of the crazing (after crazing the lacquer, I wiped the body surface with water based Dark Oak stain to emulate years old grime in the cracks).1 point
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I replaced an old brass non fender 4 saddle on my 1972 Telebass for a Squier Fender replica 2 saddle and find I have no issues with intonation even though many speak of it being an issue. However it is slightly wider than what it replaced and takes the E string away from being directly above the bridge Humbucker E pole piece. As 2 Humbuckers were a bit too punchy anyway I swapped one out for a Jazz pickup. Wilkinson used to do those slanted 2 saddle bridges but they seem to be discontinued now. Here's a 'before' photo.1 point
