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Showing content with the highest reputation on 15/04/20 in all areas

  1. Sadly moving on my G&L SB2. I believe this to be 1982 or 1983, when Leo Fender was very much at the helm still, I like to think he had his hands on this one. Finish is Nitro as early G&Ls were, but in remarkable condition for its age although has its marks. Neck is sublime and with the MFD pickups sounds badass. Original radio knobs. The control plate is tarnished but easily restored if so wished. Will come in a practically new Gator hard case Thanks for looking
    7 points
  2. Just before we were sent into our houses for the foreseeable (big shoutout to those key workers who are out making the world go round), I bought myself a Squier Classic Vibe 70s Precision bass. I had sold a Squier Chris Aiken bass last year that I had modified with EMG GZR pickups and really regretted it, so it was time for another. I wanted a P bass that I could leave in the back of a van or not worry so much if it gets knocked or, to a lesser degree, nicked. I've got some great basses but it's hard to relax when you've got a couple of grand on a stage in a dodgy venue! I needed a 'cheap' bass. So here she is... £339 from A Strings in South Wales. They had two in stock, this and a brown one. The brown one looked cooler on the Internet but the black looked better in real life and this one played better. I also wanted a bit of a project - I enjoy taking guitars apart and wanted my new bass to be different to everyone else's. So I decided to set myself a bit of a challenge, Top Gear style (but without the laughs and million pound budgets). A cheap bass challenge it was then. I gave myself the challenge of spending 10% of what I paid for the bass on each upgrade - maximum of £34 per modification. I'd been looking at P bass pickups and the prices you can pay are crazy - you can easily spend 50% of what I paid for this bass on fancy pickups alone, so I thought I'd try a few budget conscious options out. First to go was the bridge. The bass played very well to begin with, but I've always had a problem with the thin, bent metal bridge that Fender supplies on its poverty instruments. I find they wobble a bit in the saddles and don't feel secure. So I ordered a Fender High Mass bridge from here -> https://mickleburgh.co.uk/shop/fender-jazz-bass-p-bass-brass-bridge-assembly/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMItePq_P7q6AIVQbTtCh08ZgWEEAQYAyABEgISgPD_BwE for £34. I wanted to see if the age old forum rumour was true - does a bridge increase sustain and improve tone? To find out, I recorded myself before changing the bridge and after. (Soundcloud link at the end, and no it doesn't!) The new bridge made the bass feel a lot tighter, and better screwed together, weirdly. It also added some weight to the very light body and helped it sit a bit more nicely on a fabric strap. It's a quality item, with well machined parts and no sharp bits. Intonation was easy to sort and it required very little saddle adjustment to get the bass playing nicely again. I'd recommend Fender's Hi Mass bridge. In terms of sound, I didn't hear any difference. See for yourself in the Soundcloud link below. The notes don't sustain for years like people say and the tone of the bass remained the same. I never understood why someone would want a bass that sustained for ages, I've certainly never found any use for 2 minute long sustained notes... yet. Happy with the bridge, I decided to try some new pickups. The pickups that came with the bass were a pleasant surprise - they had character and a nice output. The tone control was useful and helped tame some top end but it could also let the bass 'bite' when you wanted it to. I decided to change them just because I had some free time and I was curious. I had acquired a set of Seymour Duncan SDP-1 pickups courtesy of @shoulderpet. They arrived really quickly and I set about carving up my bass to try them out. They needed a little soldering, but I fancied a challenge. Unfortunately, I was only getting sound out of the E and A strings. Upon going through everything with a fine tooth comb (and a magnifying glass), I had realised that in trying to solder a connection from one half of the pickup to the other, I had lost the end of the winding. I had probably lost it when I put some heat on the solder point and it had slipped out of it's hole and gone missing. Bugger. I shelved those for now and I ordered a set of Entwistle PBXN pickups to see what the fuss was about. Whilst I was waiting for them to arrive, I decided to shield the insides as per @la bam's awesome thread on his John Deacon bass. I had noticed a bit of noise when I wasn't touching the strings previously so thought why not. I got some aluminium tape and went to work on the gizzards. It's a surprisingly therapeutic thing, putting foil tape in the pickup cavity, but my attempt did look a bit like a 5 year old had finished it off. I put some on the back of the pick guard and we were done. This was the tape I used, a whole £4.09 - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fixman-190288-Silver-Aluminium-Adhesive/dp/B00FHXA7TE/ref=pd_nav_hcs_rp_2/258-0320931-5931511?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00FHXA7TE&pd_rd_r=abbd6043-4e0b-4aae-9843-e48fde7dfe81&pd_rd_w=LHmq1&pd_rd_wg=TIXYi&pf_rd_p=12e82a50-703f-4e6f-ae56-e22f8e18f1f0&pf_rd_r=M0X9MJ3HJM004AQ0HFH7&psc=1&refRID=M0X9MJ3HJM004AQ0HFH7 The new pickups arrived from Pickupsplusmore on eBay (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Entwistle-PBXN-pickup-for-bass-guitar-neodymium-designed-by-Alan-Entwistle/233364897542?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649). First thing's first, these pickups are DEEP. The screws that go through the pickup go pretty much the entire height of the pickup again underneath. I had to cut the foam that kept the original pickups secure in half and put them either side of the screws that hang down. After a quick test with a tap from a screwdriver and happy that they worked, I tried to refit the pick guard, but as is well documented on here, the 'ears' of the Entwistle pickup cover are bigger than the originals. IMG_3912.HEIC Luckily, I had the Seymour Duncan pickups here which I salvaged the pickup covers from. Popped the Entwistle ones off, put these on, and the pick guard fit. Voila. I'm not a badge snob by any means (in fact I'm a bit gutted not to be representing a British guitar legend), but the Seymour Duncan covers look cool and the Entwistle pickups are superb. Using neodymium magnets obviously gives these pickups an increased output, but they can sound aggressive and menacing or they can chill out but keep a fat, smooth sound. There's more of everything - every frequency seems to have been turned up by 4 or 5 notches. Playing with these pickups reminds me of the first time I plugged my old MiM Jazz into my friends Fender Bassman 135; it made my bass sound higher in quality compared to playing through the shitboxes I usually went through. There were deep, rich overtones and each note left my bass beautifully. I feel like that is what these pickups have done to this bass. I'd be impressed if they were £130, but they aren't. They're barely £30. Honestly, a brilliant buy. I recorded this bass throughout the (admittedly limited!) mods. I've uploaded them to Soundcloud with a fingerstyle, a slap line and a picked blues tune to give a bit of a range. The fingerstyle pieces were played with the tone at 50% but the rest had the tone fully open. There is no compression, no touching up (oh matron...) or do-overs, or even a backing sound. Just the raw sound of the bass with all of my mistakes after each mod. So in all, this bass has cost me: £339 - bass £34 - Fender Hi Mass Bridge £29.49 - Entwistle PBXN £10 - Seymour Duncans (that I ruined, sorry!) £4.09 - Aluminium Tape Total = £416.58 I'm really pleased with everything, and all upgrades cost no more than 10% of the bass. I've spent around 23% of the bass' new value modifying it. God, lockdown is fun, isn't it?
    5 points
  3. Bass is in excellent condition, includes the original Sandberg gig-bag. Ash body One-piece Maple neck + maple fretboard (22 frets with 0 fret) Aguilar 4P-60 pickups Glockenklang 2-way 9V active preamp (push/pull volume knob for active/passive - tone knob works as tone control in passive mode (passive tone has a classic gnarly 60s P-bass tone and active bass a modern boosted tone) Sandberg hardware in gold finish (slightly faded over time) Nut width: 40mm Weight: 4.2kg / 9.2lbs (on hanging luggage scale)
    5 points
  4. I think my Special is around my 10th Stingray I’ve ever owned to date. It is by far the best and sits great in the mix. Love it!
    5 points
  5. New stingray Special in whatever finish you want, so that’s 2018 onwards. Roasted Maple, even better neck now, 18v and neodymium magnet pick ups, however many band EQ’s, H set up only. Its the absolute nuts - there will be some second hand stuff under your budget so the rest can be sent on pork scratchings and sweets.
    5 points
  6. Ive just got this in a trade, its bloody good! Needs some nice flats on but plays and sounds great. Oh, and the colour is lush!!!
    4 points
  7. As new bass collection Blockhead bass, Styled on Norman Watt Roy’s shoreline gold jazz bass. Looks and sounds great, light weight , vintage jazz tone
    3 points
  8. So, here's how it all started. Having played Kala acoustic U-basses for a few years, I decided that I would try and build a solid-bodied version to the same short scale and with the same 'rubber' strings. Being also in posession of a full size ricky, this was to be my inspiration and starting point. Bear in mind that this is all retrospective, as the build was completed last year, but I thought I'd put the pictures and thought/build process up in case it proves inspiring or helpful to anyone else...... As such, I'll trickle the pictures and info in when I have a few minutes here and there, rather than just dump the whole lot on in one go (its not like I'm particularly busy currently.......)
    3 points
  9. 3 points
  10. This bass is For Sale only so no Trade offers please. The bass is in fantastic condition having had very little play time before I bought it in 2017 and with me sparingly at home as I have other basses calling for attention too. The price includes UPS insured delivery within UK, ( EU please add £15 )with gigbag and loads of bubble wrap in a strong guitar box. Perfect working order, no wear and super clean. 4.7kg 10lbs 6oz. Just gave frets a polish and oiled the lovely stripy RWood fretboard. Please see extra pics at end. These pickups are very quiet , no hiss or hum as sometimes reported on forums. Serial HMM023105 H=1 M=6 yamaha coding , so 166 means 2016 June manufacture. Zoom in on the Tort guard I made as the bevel is slightly wobbly despite an excellent fit at neck, pickup and control plate. If you don’t want it please tell me. There ‘s an unused black guard included (YamahaMusicLondon). Tiny imperfection on headstock tip but smooth and hardly noticeable and small dink inside lower horn curve. See pics. Selling as I have a BB1024 for passive and another A/P Yamaha so ones got to go, superb as it is. Please fire away with questions or PM me if you wish to have it. I can arrange pickup from me by UPS tomorrow if you get in quick. BB1025X OVERVIEW and Specification Spline Joint BB1025 has employed a 3-piece body structure with which its bridge is placed on the center piece in order to translate the maximum amount of string vibration to the body. Instead of simply gluing wood pieces, we insert a Maple plate, called "Spline", into a slot on its joint sections. By doing that, Yamaha has succeeded in obtaining as much body vibration as a 1-piece body with this 3-piece body structure connected with two splines. Diagonal Body Thru Stringing In Diagonal Body Thru Stringing, strings are angled 45 degree at the saddle to reduce the stress and secure their tension. Moreover, because the attachment area of strings to saddles is larger than conventional vertical stringing, much better transmission of vibration is obtained. Pickups Both front and rear pickups are specially invented for this particular series. Pursuing ultimate passive sound, "Open Face Pickups" are used to cope with even aggressive picking of rock players. 5-Piece Neck These necks consist of Maple and Nato. It provides durability and prevents necks from warping and curling. Nickel Silver Nut Nickel Silver is selected for nut. It is the same material with fret wires. Unlike conventional bone or artificial ivory nut, it gives the same sound quality and feeling even when open notes are played. For any bass players it is a crucial part of well-defined low end. Specification Construction Bolt-On Scale Length 34'' (863.6mm) Fingerboard Rosewood Radius 23 5/8" (600mm) Frets 21 NICKEL SILVER Nut width 43mm Body Alder (Maple spline joints) Neck Maple/ Nato Mahogany 5pcs Bridge Vintage Plus (Brass Saddle, Steel Plate) String spacing at bridge 18mm Pickups Neck: Split Blade (Alnico V), Bridge: Single Blade (Ceramic) Pickup Switch 3 way Toggle Switch Controls Master Volume, Master Tone New Yamaha Black pick guard included, unused. My homemade Tort pick guard included but optional because I’ll be happy to keep it. All the effort ! Serviceable gig bag for protection within strong guitar box for transit. UPS insured delivery included. Please note this bass is in superb condition other than one very small dink inside lower horn, original mini colour imperfection on headstock tip and original small paint imperfection top of body edge which I can’t even capture on photo .These are absolutely minor. It is a beautiful clean bass and has had very limited playing time.
    3 points
  11. To Hell with that! Did you succeed? Did it work? What does it weigh? How does it sound? What do those knobs do? Why is it that colour? Is it any good for metal?
    3 points
  12. I might have accidentally put deposit down on another Dingwall 😎.
    3 points
  13. This is more than decent https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233555292036 This is very nice https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184213713839 This too These are where I would put my money
    3 points
  14. Currently listening to pre-release review MP3s of the new Kansas album, The Absence of Presence. The album’s not actually out until the end of June. Tell you what, it’s a bit good!
    3 points
  15. That's great, but this is still the definitive version IMO and a great bass Tone (keeping it on topic!)
    3 points
  16. Ken Smith Black Tiger 5 for trade against Ken Smith Elite 5 or 6 strings plus cash from me. NOT interested in other trades!
    2 points
  17. As my job has been furloughed until the end of May but I also received a small bonus today, I have purchased a little something to keep myself entertained with. A bargain at £250 from Facebook marketplace but sadly not local enough to collect whilst out shopping so here's hoping it survives DPD bringing it to me.
    2 points
  18. 2 points
  19. Right, it's My First Transcription™ , and in fact I'm only two bars in. This is James Jamerson on The Pointer Sisters "Don't It Drive You Crazy" from 1977: A funktastic bassline, and big thanks to @chris_b for suggesting it. In the spirit of Mr Jamerson I've put the La Bella 1954s and foam onto the P, but there's no way I could get close using just my 'hook' - two fingers to that idea ;). But here's my take: Dont it drive you crazy - 15_04_2020, 19.47.mp3 Now to my transcription efforts. I've settled on 84 BPM after various attempts to match a metronome to the beat (I don't know the drumming term for the particular rhythym used) Thus far I'm happy with the pitch of the notes, but struggling to transcribe the note and rest values correctly: I used Sibelius First, any tips on the note values much appreciated! Thanks for looking
    2 points
  20. Well when I’ve helped out mates when they’ve started out I’ve tried to get them to concentrate on fretting on one string at a time - say go from the 3rd fret to the 5th, and repeat 4 times, then go 5th to 7th, just to get used to fretting properly. Then repeat this on each string in turn, so then getting used to the feel of each string. Once comfortable with that go from 3rd fret on one string to the 5th fret on the other. Small steps but once comfortable with fretting when you start on songs they’ll sound so much better to your ears without any mis-fretting.
    2 points
  21. ...right, as soon as Miley Vyrus has sung her last I’m going to bring my short scales over!
    2 points
  22. Impressed! I've only ever managed one bass at a time.
    2 points
  23. Can’t share pictures as it hasn’t been built yet. It’s blue and it’s got 5 strings 😜
    2 points
  24. I’m still in. Coronavirus restrictions are helping to temper the GAS,
    2 points
  25. I’ve just realised I’ve dumped myself out of the GAS Challenge 2020 😬
    2 points
  26. I’ve previously had 80’s - modern Rays, 2 band and 3 band. For my taste, I’d recommend buying one like the HH Special I own now. The others are still great, I just feel this suits what I like better in a bass (ergonomics, awesome EQ and versatility).
    2 points
  27. I need two basses as I gig so much, if one goes wrong, I need a spare. Do I need a spare like this? Maybe not. But I'd like to have two nice basses, either of which I would be happy to gig 😊
    2 points
  28. I love how messy it sounds isolated, yet in the song it's spot on.
    2 points
  29. Great another tone thread. I get to post this again! Compressed squelch clank for days...
    2 points
  30. Stuck my pedal board in front of mine yesterday; glorious! That Sadowsky SBP2 really is the bee’s mid leg joint.
    2 points
  31. That would be the Series 4000, with the composite bodies. They were available in black, but they had J-style pickups and were bolt-on and you can clearly tell the neck pocket from the front. They also had much simpler controls than the S2000.
    2 points
  32. Twas merely said in jest my good man 😉
    2 points
  33. no mid switch on mine tho......
    2 points
  34. I’ve had a couple of 3 band Ray’s, plus a Classic and a Special. All are good but (IMO) the Classic and Special are both a step above the standard 3 band Ray in terms of tone (which I found too raspy on the 3 band). I prefer the Special over the Classic due to the 18v tone circuit, neck profile, body shape and weight. The Classic is a great bass but if I was looking to buy another Ray to go with my Special it would be another Special. YMMV of course. 😎
    2 points
  35. "I'm not working at the moment because I've a shipment of Russian diamonds coming in; I brokered the deal because my blonde Russian girlfriend (and her twin sister...I've had them both) has contacts over there." This from an old acquaintance I'd bumped into and innocently asked 'What are you up to these days?' I should set the scene fully here: we were in the signing-on queue at the DHSS... He was a legendary Walter Mitty with all manner of whoppers, although the only time I ever called his bluff was about his nickel-plated .44 Magnum...I offered to go shooting with him at the local range (this was the 80s, when that sort of thing could be done) and that one at least turned out to be true. He was a great shot, too. I was always very polite to him after that...
    2 points
  36. This is £150 posted for both? That’s cracking! It’d be worth buying an OLP just to put these into!
    2 points
  37. If we're talking about volume, the biggest factor is the efficiency of the cabs. I run a 300w head, and if I use both my BF cabs, it's ridiculously loud*. I mean drummer-drowning, ear-protection, stoopid loud. Numbers of watts can be a distraction and nothing more... * In fact, it goes nearly as loud with just the Super Twin...
    2 points
  38. Your '87 sounds great, why do you need another one?!
    2 points
  39. These are mine at the moment: Vigier Passion 5 Alembic Series 2 graphite 5 string (unicorn bass, realistically - only a handful in existence and this one is now a fretless) Hagstrom Super Swede reissue I really like hearing focussed and growly mids if I'm on stage amongst a loud foldback mix. It makes it easier to hear what note is being played without looking down at my left hand constantly.
    2 points
  40. It’s the chord produced that’s minor. Just using those notes from that major scale and producing a chord starting on each note you produce these chord types: C major7 - C, E, G, B D minor 7 - D, F, A, C E minor 7 - E, G, B, D F major 7 - F, A, C, E G dominant 7 - G, B, D, F A minor 7 - A, C, E, G B minor 7 b5 - B, D, F, A Same chord types in any major scale. Just the roots would change. Get a pen and paper and write out the notes from the C major scale, across two octaves. You take alternate notes, so 1 (root), 3 (third), 5 (fifth), 7 (seventh). Do that from each note and you’ll see what I’ve done.
    2 points
  41. I cut the frets to length and detanged the fret-ends. Lucky break - the little bit at the bottom is all I had left off the coil... When I'm fretting, once I've run along each slot lightly with a triangular needle file, I run a small bead of Titebond along the tangs,then hammer them in (one side, other side, middle) and then pop a clamped radius block on while I'm preparing the next one. And, after the glue has fully cured, the fret-ends are snipped and edges sanded and we have a fretted fretboard Next job is the headstock while I wait for the trussrod to arrive
    2 points
  42. This may be of interest to you too
    2 points
  43. Little by little. This is my hobby and usually is interspersed with a lot more 'life' stuff. With the lockdown and building a guitar on a bit more 'doing something everyday' basis probably makes me realise how much work there is involved in one! But - in actual terms - decent progress. This morning I have tapered the fretboard to it's final size and rough-tapered the neck: Next job is probably putting the frets in the fretboard. Nowadays, I do that before gluing to the neck - easier to handle, easier to keep stable for hammering and clamping the frets and MUCH easier for getting the fret ends square and straight with the fretboard edge.
    2 points
  44. All done, best playing jazz I have had. Probably because it P shaped!😁😂
    2 points
  45. @Jakester, it sounds like you are trying to mute with just one finger - by doing this you are creating a node rather than stopping the string from vibrating, and this is what is creating the harmonic. To effectively mute you must use at least two points of contact (for LH muting I generally use the underside of all my fingers, depending on context) to stop the string dead .
    2 points
  46. The speeches will be over at 9pm sharp and then you're on. We're expecting over 1,000 people. Just start, I can sing it in any key. Can my mate do a number? He's really really good.
    2 points
  47. I need to have it this loud to get ‘my’ sound.
    2 points
  48. 'We're definitely coming to your gig on Saturday'.........
    2 points
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