Cuzzie

There are a couple of great BF Supertwin deals on BC right now-last time I looked Being so light it’s not overkill even for smaller gigs - they will reproduce what you put in and the volume you desire

Yep they do have samples of each string, let us know where you land?!

I am a DR Hi Beams man, prior to that DR DDT, also very good, but Hi Beams have a little extra going on in the mids to my ears I really like. For a while I was GHS Boomers - best strings if you only want them for about a week and 2 hours of play

Rumour is they are pretty much GHS steels

I bloody like that

Looking good so far and I will be watching as to what to do! Wont be able to chip in too much with the actual chopping and moulding the wood etc. As I am only starting on repairing bodies and popping bitsa’s together, but hoping to progress to this! i suppose the good thing is you have basses to use as templates to draw around. Tip I got from another is make a template from thin wood, polystyrene etc and copy all relevant points, holes etc accurately, measure 85 times and cut once! When it comes to your finish, yes it’s a pain in the derrière, but a very good sanding job really will be your friend. If you ever want to ‘pop’ the grain a little more, a blowtorch is great to do this and you can achieve it without scorching it Good luck!

@Jabba_the_gut strikes again - legendary work

Big thumbs up and bravo from me

I have no strong feelings either way for rewind vs new pick ups, but..........if you rewind them and the break/degradation etc is too much and you end up using using a new components , is it not arguably a new pick up? If future sale value is considered you can always keep the originals safe and include them in a sale if you go the new route. Bareknuckle also do re-winds

Agree with @dannybuoy a ‘mid-scoop’ does not mean your bass gets lost, it’s all about knowing what other instruments are around, what they need to breathe and where you can poke to gel a sound together. Regardless of that, if the B7k is a good sim of the real thing, I would say that’s a bad thing, it’s a pretty chaff sound and they should have improved it!

Don’t sleep Just constantly watch

Looking good and defo worth that test piece. I often to my test bits under the pickguard or neck plate area Looking forward to this. The more the mind changes - the lighter the bass becomes!

The oils will darken the word ever so slightly. I use Gun Oil, which is similar to Tru Oil. All of this are a mixture of oils (boiled linseed is in there). As the oil goes on, it will bring out any existing grain. Normally for the first couple of coats you can dilute it with white spirit 2:1 spirit to oil and sand it in with fine grit paper, do this twice so it forces it into the pores and takes the natural wood dust with it, obviously drying between applications. Then you can start with oil as it is, wet sanding/wire wool and buffing after application and drying to get the desired sheen. i’ll show Some pictures post stain but pre oil and then post oil using this technique and you can make your mind up. I didn’t go for full gloss. Pre: Post: Hope this helps

Norwegian Maple (although it’s actually from Germany, it’s just the species name) as opposed to Canadian so it’s as strong but lighter. Finger board looks possibly like their steamed/fumed oak, which is similar to rosewood but gives a nice snappy attack - but I could be wrong (hope I am not). If I am right it’s sort of in-between Rosewood and Pau ferro in its sound. Sure the OP will confirm.

Oh cool! My brother is a lucky little chicken then! Small hiatus whilst work gets in the way and I picked up a Nikki Sixx Thunderbird body to repair but oiling the neck and just need to get scratch plate and electronics sorted