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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/03/21 in all areas

  1. 13 points
    You don't half come up with some rubbish. There isn't one . Either you are the most judgemental person I have ever heard of or you are the most boring Troll. Yes ...I am aware that that last bit is judgemental but, in my defence, I've never used Broccoli to play bass with.
  2. 10 points
  3. 5 points
    Just throught I'd share some first impressions now I've had a few days to play around. This is one of the second series of Ibanez headless EHB basses, released in 2021 (the first series came out in 2020). I've been playing short scale basses, but since my experience with multi-scale guitars was positive I thought that multi-scale would suit a short scale bass quite well as the main 'problem' with shorter scale lengths can be the lack of tautness in the E-string. My main concerns when ordering were that there were some issues with the first series of EHB (reasonable number of reports of neck cracks, misaligned bridges, poor jack socket), but no-one short of custom ordering did an instrument like this, and nothing like this kind of price. Stuck my pre-order in at Andertons in January with delivery expected in early-mid March. Well, it turned up on the 2nd of March, so top marks there. Slightly disappointed to find that someone (presumably at Andertons) had rifled through the gigbag and opened the accessory bag, presumably to get to the 9V battery, which I found with the wrapper semi-removed plugged into the back of the bass. Guess it was the first one in and someone wanted a play. Doesn't bother me too much as long as they were careful, and as there wasn't a mark on it I guess they were... First, some pictures: Metallic green/blue paint, burl maple fretboard. A nice combo in my eyes Bolt on neck, but upper fret access is very good. The back of the body is bevelled, so the upper half is thinner than the lower The neck profile is incredibly flat and wide in true Ibanez fashion. It's comfortable to play, although the width was a bit of a shock at first Playing Feel The first thing that hits you is that adding a string makes for a very wide looking/feeling neck at the treble end of the fretboard (the nut's only 45mm). It also knocks your calibration out of whack, and I found that I'd be playing the wrong string from time to time. I've played a 7 string guitar so was expecting both of these and it'll come with time. The action is low, aiding playability, and is not buzzy. I'd say the setup is pretty well judged out of the box, but the intonation will need some adjustment. The string tension is lower on the B-string than I'd expected, but not excessively so. The multi-scale will take a little getting used to, but with a neutral (that's basically the 'normal' fret, perpendicular to the string) 7th fret, the pattern makes a lot of ergonomic sense on a bass-length scale. As I move my fretting hand up the neck, my fingers follow the arc/fan of the frets very well. Just need to get the muscle memory re-learnt so that I'm placing my fingers in the optimum place - I was getting a few 'just-past' the target fret moments at first. My main concern was about successfully muting the newly acquired 5th string. I usually right-hand mute strings by hooking my ring and little fingers through/around the strings, whilst anchoring with my thumb. This works nicely on a four string bass as even when playing the G-string, the second playing finger will mute the D-string. What I've found to work really well on this bass is anchoring my thumb on the edge of the neck: When playing the 3rd to 5th strings it's business as usual, but when playing the 1st or 2nd strings, the thumb starts to naturally rotate into position and touch the B string. It's pretty natural and works well. When using a strap, you'll find the rear strap button is rather higher than a 'normal' bass (much like a Strandberg), so you'll find that you'll want to shorten the strap by a good 10cm or so (I couldn't figure why it felt weird at first). Balance is excellent as you'd expect with no head - it just sits where you want it with no pull one way or another. It's also very light (just 3.3kg), not just for a 5 string, or a bass, but it's light even for a guitar. That lack of weight is much appreciated during longer playing sessions. Build Quality The build is generally very nice, the neck in particular being a high point. Fret ends are nicely finished and smooth, the edge of the fretboard is well rounded, making it very comfortable. As is often the case, it's just the upper corners of the nut that could use a bit more time with the sander as the corners are sharp, and without a headstock it's easy to run a little too far and catch on the nut. The hardware feels excellent quality and is easy to adjust (and there are a lot of adjustments available too). The individual bridges are good and straight as you'd expect. Before buying headless I'd heard many complain that the tuners are difficult to adjust with fingers. Not so here - the knobs are a decent size and are very smooth and easy to adjust. A minus point has to be that the manual is a generic Ibanez document that is almost entirely irrelevant in every respect to the EHB. They'd have been better off providing nothing as the only 'normal' thing shared is the truss rod. It's particularly weird that they've not included any specific manuals as they've produced some which are on their website, both for the hardware and the EQ/electronics. As mentioned before the paintwork is generally very good, but the area around the bridge/tuners is not up to a great standard. Only really visible if you're looking for it though Electronics The pickups are a pair of passive Bartolini BH2s, through an Ibanez 9V powered EQ. Again, some documentation in the box would have been nice, but a quick download later and all was revealed. Volume Pickup balance (clockwise for neck, anti-clockwise for bridge. This has a central detent for both pickups on equally) 3 - 7 control the EQ Lower knob is bass EQ, cutting or boosting the bass (this has a central detent for a flat EQ) Upper knob is treble EQ, cutting or boosting the treble (this has a central detent for a flat EQ). It also becomes the passive tone control if the active EQ is switched off Lower knob controls the mid frequency that control 6 affects Upper knob is the mid EQ, cutting or boosting around the frequency selected by control 5 (this has a central detent for a flat EQ) EQ switch. Switched forward this disables the active EQ and control 4 becomes a passive tone knob The controls are nicely weighted and are smooth, although the plastic knobs do feel a touch cheap. Being a beginner to 3-way EQ actually on the bass itself I've not played around too much yet, sticking to passive control. The pickup blend is a nice feature, although I'd have preferred two volume knobs and a switch as it allows for mid-song changes more easily. The jack socket is a captive type preventing accidental disconnects. It's fairly stiff to release, but easy enough to do with one hand I don't feel qualified to comment on the sound, but through my Ashdown ABM III it sounds bloody good, punchy and clear, even driven by my fingers. Output volume is not boosted like an active pickup which means less equipment adjustment if switching basses (it's very similar in output to my Hagstrom Swede). Overall As the owner of a Strandberg Boden (guitar) I do find there's a lot of similarity (even superficially), it really feels that Ibanez are trying to create an instrument that is very reminiscent of the Strandberg, but substantially less expensive. It's a well made, ergonomic instrument that undoubtably has a few niggles/areas for improvement, but the overall impression is of a well designed bass with a good variety of tones for playing most genres of music.
  4. 4 points
    Hi all for sale this amazing ibanez 1306 I love the bass but moving to 5 strings e to c as I don't use tge b string enough Looking for trade mainly but also happy to sale The bass it's in amazing condition just 2 really really really small dings very hard to capture I'll try and photograph the later The bass comes also with gator case
  5. 4 points
    1974 ... I bought a used c1964 Hofner Artist with short scale Rotosound Jazz bass flats with light blue silk - £30 1976 ... I bought from Woodroffe’s in Birmingham a new Fender Precision which was factory fitted with Fender flats with green silk (as I think were all Fender basses up to that time) - £220ish
  6. 3 points
    I bought Steve's Ibanez Les Paul off him, the one he recorded the Rocks Off EP with. IIRC it cost me £125 - it was just after they got their record deal. Like a pillock, I traded it in for a brand new Gibson The Paul. Wish I still had both.
  7. 3 points
    Don't forget the distance at which the lighter tuners are a benefit, all the way out there at the end of the neck: it's only a few ounces lighter, but it has a much bigger effect than that*...well, that's what I've always found. I have Ultralites on all my basses... *I've had to check, because it was a long time ago when I did my Engineering HND, but it's the Turning Moment of the weight, which is the force multiplied by the distance
  8. 3 points
    The important thing for those at beginner level to know is: FAST ≠ GOOD. There are a million things that matter more than BPM.
  9. 3 points
    The Strings on that Shaftesbury look like Roto Black Nylon. From my memory most new US basses were fitted with flats in the 70's but most everyone changed them to RS66's As for amps we thought HH were posh We had Carlsbro or own made!! LOL
  10. 3 points
    Does it come with ‘fighting drummer’ - the one that kicks off when playing Stones covers?
  11. 3 points
    That's nothing! I'm downloading Haughty Drummer™ and Smug Drummer™ , so
  12. 3 points
    Which actually leads to the next question. How many notes per beat are you talking about? Playing 16ths at 10bpm would require the same dexterity as single notes at 160bpm. Bpm is irrelevant.
  13. 3 points
    No clue as to why they don’t get played much but when they do they sound brilliant- still. So much life to the recordings and production.
  14. 2 points
    Hey everyone, Reformed guitarist now fully-committed to the sweet and low-down. Recently moved to Barcelona (just in time for a global pandemic) and am currently twanging away on a Fender Jazz Bass into a headphone amp so I don't get evicted. I like a ton of different styles of music, from Punk to Jazz, via Motown, Doom, and tons of pop too. I look forward to lots of shared GAS with you all. Cheers!
  15. 2 points
    I've got my own ideas on this but it would be interesting to see other people's opinions on this momentous,foundation subject. That is the minimum finger/plectrum string strikes per minute across all/any notes on the fretboard.
  16. 2 points
    As some of you may have been following I was the victim of a scam seller on ebay full details of which are in this thread I have today at last got my money back from PayPal There are two lessons from this experience 1. My account was not hacked so I find it worrying that the seller could impersonate me, get an undelivered item case opened on the day I purchased it and get the case closed in his favour quoting tracking details that showed delivery was to a near but different postcode/address and 3/4 days before I purchased it! I reported what had happened to ebay and they refused to answer me. I therefore have a feeling nothing will change and that this will allow other buyers to be duped in the same way. 2. But the three level protection works - if ebay won’t refund PayPal will and if neither ebay or PayPal will refund you then the third option is a credit card charge back
  17. 2 points
  18. 2 points
    My bass tutor once told me I sounded better when I did not play! What he meant was leaving a gap occasionally can make the music happen. On that basis I would say playing at 0 bpm was enough. 😊
  19. 2 points
    Fyi, I'm really loving my Sandberg California short-scale P-bass. For some inexplicable reason it's officially called 'Lionel', which would have been enough to stop me buying one if the name had actually appeared on the bass itself. Anyway, for me it's the best of the 'branded' s-s basses I've tried and, apart from the normal P-bass limitations (i.e. single pup and two pot's), plays as nicely as my Andy Rogers custom-built basses. Neck measures 40mm at the nut, which is my preference. I'll post a pic as soon as I've taken a decent one.
  20. 2 points
    The Russians are known as the middiest. Whenever it come to fuzz or distortion disappearing in the mix though the issue is usually volume. The heavy clipping and resultant emphasis of upper harmonics make fuzztones sound a lot louder than they are. A test for this is on anything with meters- set a fuzz to sound balanced in level by ear, and then compare the actual level on the meters. It's usually dramatically lower than bypass. Set it so that the levels match on the meters and the fuzz sounds immensly louder- however, this will translate much better when in the mix. The real key is to set the fuzz to sound as you want in the mix, rather than beforehand in isolation.
  21. 2 points
    'Respectable' BPM is whatever is required by the piece of music. So anything from 1 BPM.* *Or 0
  22. 2 points
    This is a VERY nice design and build
  23. 2 points
    Bought a last month , and just a few rubbish pictures - that are already up on the Musicman Porn page . Got a mate to do a set up , new strings , and it plays really really nicely .
  24. 2 points
    Deffo agree with this. Extremely easy to use, very good sample sounds, not over-laden with bells and whistles you'll never use. Speaking of that, if you go for the Beat Buddy don't buy the optional footswitch controller unless you're sure you'll need it. The basic unit is very good VFM, the footswitch rather less so!
  25. 2 points
    I’m experimenting using the Shaper to create a headstock logo. I used a 0.5mm bit and infilled with blue resin. It turned out super crisp!
  26. 1 point
    I'm using the same shape that I planned to do the 6 string body but I've taken about 20mm out of the middle to keep the dimensions right Gluing up the body blank which is Sapele and the top is going to be Oak with a Ebony-esque demarcation line between as I really liked that combination when I did my $$ build The top is going to be Black grain filled again then just danish oiled, I'm thinking of maybe doing a chamfered edge on it instead of rounded for a change? I'm going to go for a full paddle head flat headstock neck I'm not sure which would look better Rosewood or Maple fretboard? As far as pickup config I'm not entirely sure I'm leaning more towards a single MM but that could change? hardware will probably be Black?.....👍🏻
  27. 1 point
    I stayed in the queen vic there for about 2 weeks
  28. 1 point
    I’m jealous, I’ve been looking for a P bass of this exact age 😀
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    This thread needs to be deleted...or something. The title is way too long and it's upsetting my OCD every time it appears, it looks out of balance with the other threads
  31. 1 point
    I thought that is what the purpose of it was, not something I listen to, I am not old enough!
  32. 1 point
    Now £320 shipped!! Total Bargain for a bass of this quality👍😃
  33. 1 point
    Welcome NT. Enjoy the banter. I'm a recent joiner and loving it.
  34. 1 point
    I have one just like that . I also have a '97 with that case. My case was not original on the '78. Did Fender have those cases (in your picture) before 1990 ?
  35. 1 point
    If it's only a wee bit out then chop the spring in half - that'll get you an extra wee bit of range.
  36. 1 point
    I'm just arranging my ACG build with Alan, not a milestone, I just can't find a fretless 20th Anni SR5 for love nor money... My best mate bought me my stealthy Bongo 5 for my 50th, the magnificent old sod.
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    I'll take this please. PM sent.
  39. 1 point
    The Terror Bass is perfect for blues and Motown type stuff. The overdrive is quite dark and spongey, and not actually well suited for aggressive rock and metal without a pedal in front IMHO.
  40. 1 point
    Run the pre-amp as you normally do but use the power Amp faders to lower volume to an acceptable level.
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    Second Rufus & Chaka Khan song with Bobby Watson on bass. Check out the fills at the end! Rufus & Chaka Khan - Stay | Bass Transcription | Bobby Watson
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    £1931 for a P, £2325 for a J. (Via the Bank of England inflation calculator) Considering that these are almost identical spec to the current Player models, you get a lot more for your money now.
  45. 1 point
    Where does the tractor attach ? I assume the upper horn cuts the earth and the strings and lower horn sift it and turn it to the side before you start the next furrow ? The frets are for measuring depth of furrow cut ? is the brown colour from clay soil staining?
  46. 1 point
    It is exotic plywood 😆
  47. 1 point
    You live in Germany, @Si600, which is the centre of the universe for speaker kit building IMO. Check out the next issue of Hobby Hifi, available at your friendly kiosk in about two weeks' time. It should contain a complete design for an 'updated' version of the LS3/5a using modern components. I assume you speak German. Falcoln and Wilmslow are stuck in the sixties, but IPL have some very nice transmission line designs, and Ivan knows his stuff.
  48. 1 point
    Fantastic head at a great price.. Glwts
  49. 1 point
    Hi all Next up: Green Russian Reissue! Setting Six on this is 🔥🔥🔥
  50. 1 point


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