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About mhoss32

  • Birthday September 24

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  1. Bloody hell... Thats a marvellous bit of work it really is. I shall pour a g&t, find a comfy chair and enjoy re-reading the thread! Congrats, a real achievement. You should be damn well proud
  2. "more clamps is best clamps" -me, 2021
  3. @Jabba_the_gut many thanks! Im looking forward to it too @Si600 thats a good question. For one thing im now certain i can reduce the footprint and improve the overall design. The coils need to be shorter and need more coils, and most likely i could move up to a 41 AWG wind for extra treble response if you were going to use them with filter preamps. Once i've had a go at a rework i'll be in touch! A 5er right away would be a bit overpriced IMHO, as it would mean a fresh design and reprint of the base pcb, but after a redesign it wouldn't be too tough i would think.
  4. +1 for the EVO gold. both of my last 2 builds ive used it and im a huge fan.
  5. @Andyjr1515 Thats High praise coming from you andy!! as i say, im extremely greatful for all the positive comments and encouragement @itu im glad you found it useful! i think one thing to bear in mind is that a lot of the veneers etc went to waste during the making of this bass, so in reality if i made another the overall cost of materieals would be slightly less. id hopefully be able to get 2 basses out of all those veneers second time around with a bit more knowledge... and i hope id be able to reduce the timescale on it now that ive done it all once and as i mentioned earlier in the thread, i wouldnt want to attempt inlays this complicated on someone elses bass until id had a bit more practice! Unfortunately for prospective buyers (but very fortunately for me) i've just managed to) buy myself a house, so a lot of my DIY time allocation will be going on plastering and laying laminate floors! then again if any enterprising builders in the north west fancy trading some hours for a bass then feel free to drop me a PM @binky_bass... what type of wotsits we talking here? normal or giant?
  6. @Daz39, ive got a few ideas brewing as i mentioned earlier in the thread, a lot of the material choices for this bass were made with the consideration of "if this experiment goes to s***, how much is this going to cost me?" and so most of the wood choices were relatively inexpensive... as such id love to have another stab using some more expensive wood options in the future, and ive got a few changes id make to the pickups and preamps next time round as well. @binky_bass, certainly not too prying, im happy to share if it helps others! The wood costs were broadly as follows: Body wood - Padauk - approx £22 Body veneer laminations + extra veneers for the neck: approx £80 (these are expensive partly because they are thick constructional veneers, and partly because they cost a lot to ship) neck laminations (veneers /oak boards / rosewood) - approx £50 Namibian rosewood block for the neck through - approx £45 other various veneers etc approx £30 macassar ebony fretboard - £40 inlays - approx £100 Flamed redwood top (imported from US, bit of a difficult one to quantify as it came with a couple others) - approx $80 for the top approx $70 for the shipping plus import tax... probably total about £100 for the rest of the parts: Bigsby b500 clone (a good one) - £35 brass parts for customisation - approx £10 Tune - o matic bridge - £21 TUSQ graphite blocks - £12 Sperzel locking machine heads - £91 assorted extra hardware (inserts, straplocks etc) - approx £30 for the electronics: 3D printed pickup covers + switches - £33 truss rod - £16 carbon fibre in the neck - £32 PCBs for pickups, bobbins, preamps - approx £50 spool of 41AWG wire - £26 electrical components (resistors, caps, pots, knobs etc) - approx £40 bits for power supply + custom cable - approx £30 there were many other assorted costs for sanpaper, fresh router bits+jigsaw blades etc, and stuff i already had like the finishing products which i can't total up here. (if id had a swear jar in the garage id be broke) so based on that math, total would be somewhere around £850-900 ish. which is frustratingly expensive really, ive built some nice basses before for less than half of that, but there just arent many cheaper ways to do some of the stuff on this one. as for time, thats a difficult one to say. i think with all of the reworks of various things id hazard a guess around 240 hours, but maybe more than that. hope that is helpful to anyone wondering like i was saying, id like to do the next one with some fancier woods/veneers... just seen this fretboard blank for sale... that sort of gets the cogs turning
  7. Thanks again so much guys! There's been so many kind comments throughout this thread and i so glad everyone has enjoyed it! I just hope it lived up to the expectations Daz, thanks! The sliders on the pickups switch the pickup coil configurations between 4 modes: 1. p bass 2. Reverse P 3. Jazz bass 4. Humbucking The other controls are: Push pull master volume, switching between stereo output with outboard power and mono output with battery power Balance knob Then each pickup has: Frequency sweep low pass filter 2 position switch between 2nd order (12db/octave rolloff) and 4th order (24db/octave rolloff) Resonance control from 1db peak up to 10db peak, with a push switch in 4th order mode up to 15db
  8. As promised, managed to ge out in the good weather and get a few beauty shots! The scroll at the front and the rounded front of the headstock im particulary pleased with: and a few artsy shots on the grass and a few close ups of the pattern: Hopefully updates in the form of a couple of demo videos coming soon!!
  9. @binky_bass Can't promise i can stretch a bigsby out to 6 strings, but you could get one hell of a pattern down the back of the neck! @HazBeen People often refer to alembics as "furniture basses", its a big compliment!!
  10. Thanks so much Guys! @Hellzero, it does look really long haha, that 26 fret neck that far up the body gives it a somewhat stretched look, but overall its actually pretty dainty. the total width of the body is only about 33cm @TheGreeki know what you mean, but ive already got a few sketches of some more crazy ideas for the next one... as well as some improvements to some of the decisions made on this one, plus ive got a few bits of extremely nice wood for things like fretboards and body wood ready to go. i'm hoping to take some time to refine stuff and then see if i can find a customer for MK II
  11. Sorry for the delay on this update guys, its been a hell of a busy week. Lots going on with another little project that i'll share with you all soon, but in the meantime: im building the external power supply for the bass. The original plan was to build a pretty simple pedal with a 12v input, and a normal 24v DC-DC converter. ive changed this plan slightly for a couple of reasons. firstly, this big DC-DC converter is fully isolated, a bit like a pedal "wall wart", which means that i can use pretty much any normal power supply and feed it into this (the input voltage range is 9-18V DC) with a 24V isolated output. the second change is that i found a rather natty red aluminium chassis on youtube, and liked the look of it better than a pedal. sometimes its just something that catches your eye! first step was tapping the holes for the bolts i wanted to use. these chassis come un-tapped so you have the option of different screw types: and once it was all jammed in together, this is what it ended up looking like: i think its fairly smart! plus its small and light enough to fit into a hardcase alongside the bass, so thats a plus. very simple: its just the 4 pin micro XLR on the front, and a DC Jack, a switch and a 1/4" jack socket on the rear, with a switch. the switch lets me flip between stereo output or mono output, letting me use the external power with traditional as well as stereo amplification. in the picture aboce the switch is set to stereo, with a stereo jack cable coming out the back. this then runs to the 2 inputs on the back of the Boss VF-1, which the runs to the 2 inputs of the Peavy IPR-1600, which outputs to the 2 1x10 Eden cabs below. this will hopefully be the normal setup for this, but i just need to carry a standard jack to jack to run it straight into any normal bass amp as well having got a few additional coats of the high build oil and a couple of coats of the Wax, the sheen was bang on where i wanted it. just shiny enough without really being "glossy" i realised there were a couple of small drilling jobs i hadnt yet done, so i used a spare Pickup pcb to drill holes for the threaded brass inserts that will accept the pickup screws: somewhat frustratingly, the gold screws i used for the coil height adjustment dont come long enough for the pickup mounting screws. one change id definately make next time round is shortening the coils to make the pickup slightly shorter. regardless, i did manage to find some nice gold hex bolts that came in the correct length that fit just fine, but with the rounder flatter head like these: So, all holes drilled, hardware in place: we're getting a lot closer now so no we begin to get into wiring... whcih honestly turned out to be not quite as painful as id initially expected! The battery board is a tight squeeze, but that was intentional. the 24v power from the XLR runs to both the preamps as well as to this board. i decided to have it this way up as the little check battery button and lights are visible. i think i may leave it loose in there once all is done as a well fitted cover should hold it in place just fine, and allow easier swaps of the three batteries if i ever need to do that. After lining the control cavity in copper tape, i started to run the various cables from the push/pull volume into the main cavity. some braided sleeving from my PC building parts helps keep everything from looking like spaghetti! The wires from the pickups, as well as the battery connections get the same treatment, wth some 2.54mm block connectors at each ens so i can easily swap the preamps in and out if need to and once everything is in place, it was time for a first fit of everything to see how it all came together... deep breath: the black and white control knobs im very happy with, and the tuners a sperzel locking tuners which seem to hold everything very nice and solid. i cut a fresh nut from another block of Tusq graphite, and strung it with some Optima Golds. they handle the angle round the bigsby really well and help tie the look together, plus they sound fantastic. This may look pretty close to finsihed, but theres still work to do. the cavity covers i haven't made yet, and i think there may be some component changes needed for the preamps once its all up and running but we're very close to a finished bass now once its all buttoned up, ill get some proper beauty shots in natural light, as well as some sound clips!
  12. I too am on the switch train. more switches is best switches Great looking thing Andy!
  13. Thanks Guys!! @LukeFRC, generally because the finsihing oil isn't so much the finish as it is filling the grain and adding some depth and colour. once a few coats are on and before the wax finish, ill keep wet sanding to much higher Grits
  14. First round of finsihing is complete This first few layers are Crimson Guitars' High build finishing oil, over a surface sanded to 400 Grit. colour wise im extremely happy indeed, the contrast in the marquetry came out really nicely. the target is a nice even satin finish across the whole bass, which im using renaissance wax (conservators wax) slowly built up on top of the finishing oil. From this angel you can see the effect i was going for with the s matched top, with the flame of the redwood matching up nicely throughout the body the flame on the upper horn is especially nice. once ive got some more coats on and a slightly more even finish, ill get some nice close up shots. im also going to put together the power pedal, as well as the custom cable that will be needed for power/signal this week... and then its time to put it all together!!
  15. @Passinwind thats an awesome looking thing! at present im working on +24v, GND and L and R channels in a 4 pin micro XLR for this one, with an option for either stereo or mono from the other side of the pedal.
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