Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Chopthebass

  • Birthday 29/03/1965

Personal Information

  • Location
    Calgary, Canada

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Chopthebass's Achievements

Rising Star

Rising Star (9/14)

  • Great Content Rare
  • Basschat Hero Rare

Recent Badges


Total Watts

  1. I’m not the one seeking help! But thanks for the info. If I was still in the uk I’d be using Morells products.
  2. Nope it’s camphor burl. It was a little too thin so it is laminated to a layer of black walnut. The join is hidden by the binding
  3. I have a detail gun, and just sprayed tinted lacquer, set low
  4. As tempted as I am by blue pickup covers 😆 I decided to stick with the matching wood ones!
  5. I can see a bit of Marleaux Diva in it. Looks cool!
  6. Haha! That would be an interesting look 😆
  7. I decided to add a faded black outline to give more contrast with the ash. A couple more coats to go.
  8. Crystalac is the best water based lacquer in my opinion. Another oil option is Tru-Oil. It goes rock hard like lacquer, but is super easy to apply. Many videos out there.
  9. I made neck template using the Shaper. Then made the neck in the usual way, with bandsaw and overhead router
  10. Just seen a Japanese BB1100s for sale and it’s giving me GAS! I remember as a kid the bass player from Chaz and Dave had one and I loved the sound. I would point out that my parents were watching! I wasn’t an avid fan! I wonder if the 1100s is still a desirable bass?
  11. Thanks ! Well it will be for sale 😀
  12. Waiting on the custom preamp before doing control holes. Threaded inserts installed for pickups and control cover. A couple of sealer coats and headstock decal applied.
  13. Great info there Andy. There is also a trend to leave voids in the finished surface. Mayones and others do a ‘raw’ finish. I haven’t tried the slurry method as I don’t often use tru oil but sounds like a great solution.
  14. Hey, I haven’t used tung oil, but I have used Tru-oil. It’s described as a gunstock oil, but it’s used by many guitar builders. It can be applied and buffed to a lacquer like finish, or easily made to look satin. I apply thinned 50/50 with thinners, and apply many thin coats. You have to be patient and allow 24 hours between coats, and rub with 0000 wire wool too before each coat. If you need a satin look, you just need to use 0000 after your final coat has cured. I usually let that last coat cure for 3 or 4 days before buffing with the wool. Staining burl wood doesn’t always achieve what’s in your head. I find it absorbs stain at different rates and can be blotchy. I have done it using Kedo powder stains (water based), but I now tend to seal the wood, apply a few clear coats, and then apply tinted lacquer to get where I need to be. Then clear coats to finish off.
  • Create New...