Leaderboard

True to his word, Mark from Limelight has delivered almost exactly to his earliest estimate of 12-16 weeks from order. I couldn’t be happier with it. It is exactly what I was after. It does have a J neck on it, but other than that it’s ALL Precision. I could have sworn I had a spare set of Schaller’s knocking around somewhere, but it appears not. I’ll order them at the same time as the blue Dunlop picks I was going to get.

Give them the Brexit Party's mail email address.

Do you actually need a woohoo player in your band?

Yes! I got one! Woohoo!

Right, sorry to interrupt this game for a minute but there's something I need to get off my chest, and being into the music I'm into this isn't easy for me 😉 My name is Allan and I absolutely love Copacabana. There, I said it. It's epic, such an upbeat, happy feeling disco tune and yet the lyrics are as dark as they come. As you were 😁

Fretboard ready to be stuck on the neck with the help of a purpose-made 9.5 radius wedge. White binding just finished.

Next is fitting the rosette to the top. To avoid measuring errors, I used the original cutout as a template for the Dremel radius cutter holes: Then, with lots of double checking, replicating the cuts - remembering to allow where applicable for the width of the cutter: I checked the fit of the two outer rings and then did a further series of cuts to hog out the middle bit and cleaned up with a chisel: Then glued and clamped: When that's dry, I will scrape level and then add some purfling strips. But first, I have to meet @wwcringe at Derby station to pass back a very nice Talman he asked me to soup up and tart up a bit

Practice.

Here’s my new baby soon to be shipped to me. #8554 Pelham Blue NYC Satin.

You're right, they're not. The great advantage of the five-string is that you get two full octaves over five frets everywhere on the fretboard. I switched from a four to a five about fifteen months ago and I can't see myself ever going back. Keeping the B string quiet took a bit of getting used to, but the main work was in changing the root of each scale. I started with E major and E minor rooting on the fifth fret of the B string; once I had those patterns in my head, the rest was easy.

I think I may be the crazy...

Big day today, not a nice one from my point of view, soldering, I really hate soldering. with the freeway switch there was more wires than normal and it was very fiddly. Anyways it got done and plugged in for a test and boy does it sound good even with the silks on the nut. One small problem is that in VT bridge and neck mode the neck pup isn't working but it is in every other position so I'll check my soldering tomorrow. Always a good day when a bas you've built makes a noise

Hi there to all you BC members ! Yes lets hear about your favourite players famous and not so famous and I will look forward to showing you around the factory here in Sevenoaks to show you how the strings are made. I am sure you will find it interesting.... Here's a cool ad from the 1970's featuring a few more Rotosound artists ! Regards, Jason How

3 pickups, win!

A medication box with am and pm sections would do 14 different ones, the lids snap closed, and have handy suggestions as to which plectrum to use on any given day!

I’ve been gigging the Audio Technica system 10 stomp box for about 4-5 years now. Never misses a beat and sounds good to me. My rhythm guitarist uses the shure system which also works faultlessly. My lead guitarist’s tone is far too delicate to be defiled by a wireless system 😂

That joke's so old, it writes newspaper articles complaining about 18-24 year olds and then refers to them as "milennials". S.P.

I have used a 5 string bass exclusively since the mid 90's. That's in all forms and styles of music, from functions, to covers of every decade, to reggae, to blues, to folk music. 4 strings are no more suitable than any other number of strings in any style of music. When are bass players going to understand that what you play is far more important than what you use as the tools for the job. 5 and 6 string basses were normalised over 40 years ago. Why are we still having these conversations and experiencing these prejudices?

What an amazing thread! I say amazing, I mean dangerous. I had thought I’d quashed my GAS and then I find this thread!! Anyway here’s my single ray that ever owned, bought new in 94 and still in nearly new condition, gigged heavily but treasured. I’m on the lookout for matching 5 but unsure I can handle the extra weight...

If you really do love or require the "extra depth and fretting positions available from the 5" then your playing is going to suffer if you go back to a 4. If you have technical issues, get a better bass player to look at what you are doing and suggest improvements. I too struggle with weight so I don't play basses that are too heavy. If you can play what you need to play on a 4 string bass, then sell the 5 and buy a 4 string bass. I'm guessing if that was the answer then you'd have already done it! So keep the 5, get help and focus on resolving all the issues.

I always use brass saddles on Telecaster type guitar builds, but no brass nuts these days, unless someone asks for it, though I used to cut my own brass nuts when I started out building electrics, but that was back in the late 70's, and brass was a big thing then. My first few builds had brass bridges, saddles, string retainers and nuts, some even had brass knobs! (Though necks, natural finishes, DiMarzio and Bill Lawrence high output pickups and brass hardware, pure 1970/80's.) There's an opinion that once a string is fretted any possible effect produced by a brass nut is taken out of the equation, that any effect from having one will only be apparent on strings played open. That sounds logical to me, but the main reason I stopped cutting them was fashion moved on and people stopped wanting them, plus they are a fair bit of work especially if you start from scratch with brass rod. The terrible old Kodak 'Instamatic' camera pick is of the first two guitars I ever made back in 1977, All Tasmanian native timbers, Mountain Ash, Blackwood and Myrtle and plenty of brass...

You’d need a medium now.

For the last dreadnought I did, I did an offset rosette which I wanted to try again. This was the last one: This time, I took a note of the measurements! You never know - there maybe a next time! I'd got three plates I could use, so cut out the shape and tried them to see which figuring worked best: Then out with the Dremel. This is about the only job I do with this accessory but by golly it's useful! Then it's a case of measuring correctly and remembering which hole you are supposed to be pivoting around! With luck, you end up with this: Which gives me the rosette. Of course - I've got to rout the same shape in the expensive top wood next...hmmm and that needs to be accurate!

I've owned a six10 from new for the past 2 and a bit years. I leave it in hot cars and stages and don't particularly baby it. No issues regarding the tolex or anything else for that matter.

Love G&L ! I've just finished restoring a SB2 tribute that was in rough condition. My word, they dont half put a lot of paint and lacquer on these! Previous owner struggled removed it. I've left it without lacquer so I can take it apart in the future, sand it completely flat and re paint. Anywhi, heres an idea of how it looks. Cant wait to try it out....

On the whole, it is better, but it’s not back to stock. I have some comments that may inform other people having a shot with this. 1. The glue needs to stay hot to be spreadable. However, once applied, it can be heated by being rubbed again, and it then is very malleable. 2. You have to keep rubbing the seams to get the stiff edges of the tolex to go down. I did a lot of this, but I still got a middling result. If I had the guts, I might have taken an iron to the upraised seam edges...with a wet tea towel to cover them. 3. The glue comes off easily with water and some elbow grease. So overspill is no problem. I think I got an ok result, but I’m not that impressed. The biggest barrier to a good result is how stiff the existing seams are, and how they want to stick out, even after hot glue applied and loads of rubbing. Like I said, I’d probably take an iron to it next time...lol. Pete

Short for Geraldine, no? Gender down as female, after all. Regardless, we're going to be very happy together 👫

Rasputin is brilliant too!

A couple of little changes, swapped out the True Bypass Looper for a TC Spark Mini. The TBL was a nice failsafe, but I've never needed it live (famous last words) and when I have a couple of basses with lower outputs than my Precisions, functionally, the extra signal into my pedals so I don't have to mess with their settings is more helpful. Also changed out the COG Mini 66 for a custom Schu-Tone 'Finn Drive' (named by me), it's a 3BOD clone with diode switching & relay bypass. The COG is excellent, but because of it's placement on the board, and that I only tend to use that pedal for quick drop-ins and out again, I wanted something with a relay/softswitch. To my knowledge, there are no other bass overdrives on the market in a 1590a size with relay switching......Dan at Schu-Tone absolutely stepped up to my challenge! Si

Looks great, really nice grain in the wood.

Second visit : Body curves ! Close-ups show the curly grain of the unfinished ash.

Quick update, I saw a Revelation used in Reverb for 195 so I’ve ordered it: if it proves really useful, I may splash out on a more up market model later!

http://www.fse-aardvark-planner.tk/other/gtbl4.mp3 CAVEAT (from what happened last time!) This is an arrangement, I think its accurate but I've not listened to the original recently, so can't be 100%. But you should be able to get it off this.

Maybe not for the volume, but a second cab gives you a big step forward in the tone.

He’s a good guy I think. Seems to attract a band of haters on basschat when he posts but good to see that he keeps his eye on it here

Not yet. When another One10 comes up in the classifieds, get it. If you think 1 sounds good 2 will be really make you smile.

Yes you can, yes it will unravel, no it doesn't matter. The silks are purely decorative.

'Ere, I wanna terr yew a stowry..... My grandma's favourite.

Reasonably priced, licensed R***enbackers made outside the US with more user friendly bridges....

Well, Alex must have seen my comments here or on the other thread, found my email based on the serial number, and wrote to me. I didn't want to get glueing because it looks to me like it'll be complicated to remove the excess glue afterwards. However, he says their water-based glue (the one that does seem to work) can be wiped off with a cloth and warm water after the tolex is glued back together. It looks like you need to warm it up, paint it, press both parts together and wait till it cools down. I think I'll have a go. The description sounded like even someone like me (hate DIY) could manage it. Nice touch that Alex found me even if I had not tried to reach him.

im going to go for the SWR red head. When fender took over, im not sure whether they made it any better or worse, but i think people just did not like it cus it was fender ? but in any case sales fell when they took over, now ... here is my thought on it, i may be wrong ! i think the original pre fender super red head had a great following being helped promoted by the likes of marcus miller which helped define his sound, Now... the bass community is a small patriotic bunch that likes to follow our fave product and in our own way help support that product, and the red head had its following, it had been going a fair amount of time before being sold to fender for 8 million in 2003, so, long enough for most bass players to have heard of them before fender and they either passed it by or went with it, so its established core users were already there, ... when fender took over they had ideas of revamping and selling more units, as is the idea of most bigger company's when they take over a smaller company, ...you can guess what happend, yea, they never got their sales they wanted and so about 10 years later fender axed it, and i think nearly all swr products, a shame, i think for the red head i dont think fender had anywhere to go with it, as swr had already engineered a product that you could not squeeze anymore power out of a small box with two 10" speakers, so in terms of power v size and features and sound it was already at its pinnacle. I am not sure if there is a market now for a new red head as most bass players will see right through it as making cash from an old name, but i would not mind seeing a new incarnation of it just to see what could be done, weight cold be one thing !.. i love my super red head and will use it till it falls to bits or blows up, i don't think there will be another to take its place, we will see....... here is fenders list and history of swr products. interesting. https://support.fender.com/hc/en-us/articles/115002366263-Vintage-SWR-Products