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About durhamboy

  • Birthday September 14

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    victoria, australia

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  1. Looking good, really like the pickup covers.
  2. Great information. I certainly wouldn't be expecting ABM machining tolerances from a unit costing less than a quarter of the price, but nice to know the bridge is functional and pretty durable. I've just come across these individual bass bridge units, clearly Chinese made, but these days that doesn't necessarily mea, poor quality. They might be worth a try as the price is similar to what the "Overloard" bridges and similar, are listed for.
  3. How's that cheap 'Overlord of Music' bridge held up over the years, especially given you used that bass as your main gigging bass? I'm considering my first headless build but the price of Hipshot, AMG and the like, with exchange rates, duties and shipping making them around 500 of our Australian Dollars, has made me look for cheaper options. Nova are about half that and get good reviews, so at the moment they're where I'm leaning. I've avoided the cheaper options so far, but maybe they are worth considering, at least for a first, 'see if I like it', build...
  4. You've got my interest. Following.
  5. Great, I've been waiting to see these builds progress. Like the neat and tidy workshop too. (Mine might look like that one day..... Na, probably not.)
  6. Interesting looking piece of wood you've got for the top. Flame, but stripes too and with some irregularity to the flame. I'm often drawn to the more unusual, or less than perfect grain patterns like that. Triple A flame and quilted tops and bodies can look stunning, but sometimes they just seem so perfect that it's almost boring, like I've seen that on PRS guitars and the like so many times.... (Maybe that's just me?) Anyway, looking forward to seeing your build progress.
  7. Following this one. Love the range of woods you're using. Nothing wrong with working with less tried and true woods, regardless of the species, as long as the wood is stable, why not use it, especially if it's visually attractive and used in the right places. (Figured caps etc.) . Being as I live in the land down under, I've used a lot of local woods since the mid 70's and most I've tried are more than acceptable. (especially when neck laminations of different species are used, that can make up for any slight less that optimal attributes. Many had been well proved, having been used by companies like Maton and these days Cloe Clark, and Taylor use woods such as Tasmanian Blackwood.) Anyway, looking forward to your build progressing.
  8. Always a good move to include the future owner/player in a few decisions, especially if it's a younger player. We all need to do our bit to encourage any children who are interested in playing an instrument to get as much enjoyment out of it as possible.😉👍
  9. Looking forward to see how this turns out for you. I have an Allparts maple Strat neck that's been sitting in a cupboard for years and was thinking of using it for a 25-1/2" scale bass for one of the grand kids. So, definitely following your build.
  10. Very pretty and I love the clean minimalist look.
  11. Looks nice, I always thought the only thing wrong with an early 50's P bass was the slab body and sharp edges. Will be interested to see how a noiseless 51 style pickup goes. I heard good reports about Jess Loureiro's split coil 51 P pickup and of course there are several other makers doing either stacked or split coil versions. Looking forward to how your build pans out.
  12. Really usable range of sounds and a stunning bass too Andy, which I'm sure adds it's own colour. But really impressive EQ and that's only part of what's available. Wow!
  13. Despite being fairly tall, I find a smaller body more comfortable. Even with guitars my preference is a Tele or SG sort of size. I'm also no fan of sharp edges or slab bodies, even the Tele 6 string I made for myself has forearm and belly cuts and deeper round overs on the edges. With basses Warwick Thumbs, Corvettes and Streamers, Spector N4's and the like tend to be in my happy place, just have to be careful about the choice of woods, some of those beautiful timbers can be pretty heavy and overly heavy basses are another thing I try to avoid. (Hey, I'm 69 with lower back issues I have to take care of. Growing old is a right royal pain sometimes.)
  14. I have a couple of slabs of very heavy Aussie eucalypt which I keep as the top boards for wood stacks. Everything gets stacked with slats between layers and then the last layer if the heavy eucalypt slabs. That keeps everything nice and flat while things acclimatize for a few months. (or longer) Wide, flat cut boards, are always a bit touch and go, their natural inclination is to cup as they dry. No system is foolproof, some wood will do it's own thing once released from the stack, but at least careful stacking and drying reduces the chances.
  15. I would think you'd be fine after a couple of years drying as you describe and sorry if I got a bit of topic and muddied the waters, by throwing in the bit about resins catalyzing in certain conifers.
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