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Showing content with the highest reputation on 14/12/20 in all areas
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Nice little vid here from Sir Horace7 points
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Hello! I'm reducing my collection. For sale georgeous bass in mint condition.. Custom ordered Luthman. Made of an old walnut, mahogany, wenge ,palisander and ash. ABM hardware, custom Haussel pickups closed in two parts of wood Mahogany and wedge, Delano preamp, woody knobs, satin finish, 34'' scale Very comfortable and versatile instrument.. Highly recommend It !!!6 points -
Now, for disclosure, many here know I'm a long term Markbass user (my main rig is currently a Casa head into 2 x STD121HR cabs) and I do the odd bit of work for MSL, the UK distributor, but as we haven't had many guitar shows to do, thats been a bit sparse this year... 😞 However, they sent me one of the new Vintage preamps to have a look at before it went to Bass Guitar Review for them to look at. Anyway BGR are not going to get their grubby little hands on this one because I've only been and gone and bloody bought it!! Its got some pretty clever tricks, which set it aside from other preamp/drive pedals. The preamp is based on the Little Mark Vintage head, so it has Gain, Master, 4 x tone knobs set with the same frequencies as the head and, instead of filters, a three way flat/scooped/old switch, which works along with the tone controls to give huge tonal variety. There's no clip light, so loading in a boot full of gain doesn't cause any issues, it just introduces a lovely warm tube gain. It also has a boost switch, giving +6dB headroom. Pressing and holding the drive button for 2 secs switches between two different drives, one modern rocky, the other a more organic old school drive, which can be blended with the clean tone. I've never used drive pedals, but I can definitely see myself using the old school drive, both can be ferocious or very very subtle. It has input/output, a transformer DI out and an effects loop. Then it gets clever... It has a Digital out, both RCA and Toslink, s/pdif switchable between 44.10, 48 and 96KHz. This evening I have been playing with it using an optical cable, directly into my Audient ID44, and it sounds fabulous. The aux in and headphone jacks are sensibly on the top of the box, making it a great practice amp, its going to work well for silent stage, in-ear gigs, and I'm looking forward to doing some recording with it. I'm a happy bunny and gonna enjoy my early Christmas present to myself, because I'm not gigging until NYE, and even that is looking less likely by the minute.5 points
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There's a feature line running through the fretboard blank that @Fishman would like to incorporate in the final fretboard. Trouble is, it is quite diagonal across the blank. We looked at a number of orientations using a template from the original board and came up with this as the closest we could get for the feature being centre-ish at both the heel and the nut: With this agreed, I could then cut one of the sides of the blank to give me a 90 degree datum for the fret slots. I also thicknessed the board down to around 5.8mm. That done, I attached the blank to the G&W mitre block 34" template: And then I could start sawing the slots. Here's about half-way through. I'll finish off tomorrow.4 points
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No gigs for me in May, I will be too busy queuing for food whenever it might be available.4 points
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WITHDRAWN FROM SALE3 points -
That light blue one looks lovely, shame about the dead spot. I've been trying to avoid stuff we gig as it makes me realise how much I miss it, but the snippet of Nite Club made me go and listen to a live version of it. I love playing that one live, the guitar and vocals used to leave it ages to come back in on the 'that bass part'. Just me and the drums grooving and everyone dancing. Octave runs galore 😁.3 points
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Ahh dude this man is a god. The reason I picked up a bass in the first place.3 points
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I wouldn’t touch this government with a barge pole...... Oh hold on, sorry. Thanks Jabba 😊3 points
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As ever far more eloquent than me - I was furiously typing whilst having a sleepy breakfast before being late for work! Looks like all eventualities will be covered for you3 points
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The loop is used with line level effects, whereas instrument level effects are used before the amp input. By and large if it's a stomp box it's instrument level, if it's not it's line level.3 points
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The Doobie Brothers! They cover a huge breadth of musical styles with ease (from folk to blue eyed soul to heavy rock to dixieland..... and everything in between) while engaging the audience, grooving tightly together at all times AND looking like they're having a GREAT time!3 points
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Are we doing a little bit of man maths here to help justify a BBPH purchase?3 points
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Unless you need the dosh, keep it. Who knows how things will turn out and it'll cost a darn sight more to replace it.3 points -
ACG J-Type 5, strung E-C. Alan built a new fretless neck for this recently, partial lines on ebony board. East Uni-pre 4K.3 points
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Free - Rodgers, Kossoff, Fraser & Kirke. Perfect.3 points
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Hi this is my Ovation B768 Elite3 points
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I have the 4HH Special and had the 4H version, with a brief overlap where I had them both. To my ears the HH sounded no different to the H when set to the bridge pickup, which was a relief as I didn’t want to sacrifice that sound, just add to it with the other options the HH gives you. Gratuitous pic alert:3 points
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Tower Of Power 'nuff said.3 points
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I finally got the double battery box blocked up and filled in with a piece of swamp ash off cut and topped with polyester filler. I have given the back of the bass some black polyester finish. The back of the body is now sanded flat and ready to have it's final hi-gloss black coating. It's going to look great with the book-matched front that Joe picked from my stock of exotic tops.3 points
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It's all in Dutch, but here is the complete live stream I did with Aafke Romeijn. Used my Mustang and fretless Stingray and they sound amazing, if I may say so myself.3 points
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SOLD 'Unexpectedly' I'm selling my Ibanez GWB35...as I 'unexpectedly' bought a GWB1 on a whim! I don't need both and always wanted an OG Willis. So someone can have this beast. There couple of nicks in the lacquer with a small one being on the headstock and others on the back as shown in photos. Otherwise no issues and in excellent working order. Now the best bit, all the stock electronics have been upgraded for a custom Nordstrand Dual Coil with exposed pole pieces and the preamp was changed to a BeePre (from Bee Basses). I have owned 2 of these basses, one stock and this beast which has a much improved full warm or dynamic tone, a more musical usable range, considerably more output and extremely quiet, but all of this should go without saying with the quality of the upgrades. The control cavity was enlarged and fully shielded with copper foil to fit the new pre and controls, but it still fits underneath the original cover plate. Controls were switched from a single volume and a stacked treble/bass to following: Single volume (with push/pull for active/passive) Mid boost/cut (with push/pull to change the frequency) Stacked treble/bass boost/cut Series/parallel switch Mute switch The pickup is a custom Nordstrand Dual Coil. A 5 string model wound with the pole pieces closer together that fit in their standard 4-string pickup cover for the Dual Coil as it is the same size as the stock pickup. This was not a cheap upgrade and took time for the custom model to be produced, but it has helped this bass turn into the beast that it is. For more information on upgrades check out respective websites: Bee Pre-Amp https://www.beebasses.com/ Nordstrand https://nordstrandaudio.com/pages/custom-options Videos Video of bass being played Another short video of bass being played This bass is effortless to play and I will be gutted to see it go as for many years it was my sole bass.2 points -
seconded thirded2 points
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Yes for cabinet scraper and for titebond from me2 points
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I've also use an acrylic lacquer by Chestnut once before which has the benefit of being water based, can be applied with a brush or sponge and is non-smelly. Also, if you are joining two parts of a body yourself it can be worth putting masking tape along the joint length to stop excess glue going on the surface you plan on staining. I seem to remember some glues being better than others in terms of showing up under stains (I stay clear of Resin W - much prefer Cascamite or Titebond - just my preference).2 points
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I'm using D'Addario Chromes and I can recommend them. Also, although it may be a minority interest, I'm using a 5-string acoustic, an Ibanez from their 'Exotic woods' series.2 points
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Possibly even try a cabinet scraper2 points
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Double Barrel - Dave & Ansell Collins2 points
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Yep as above - really sand it bare - I often sand up past even 600 - or higher until I get bored2 points
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@Merton story of my life.,,2 points
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You probably need to sand further down. Glue (or previous finish preparation residue if it's stripped) doesn't soak in a lot - but it is surprising how much you have to sand down to get rid of it. So it's a sanding block with something like 80 grit (60 is too coarse) sanded with the grain until a wipe over with a damp cloth reveals no light patches - lighter patches usually designate the areas where the dampness isn't soaking into the wood and flags probable contamination still there (because almost all woods darken when they absorb moisture). Then - after letting it dry again, sand out the sanding marks with the progression of, say, 120, 180, 240 grit before staining again. The stain should then soak into all of the wood leaving just the teeny glue line which will hardly show (other than clearly being a join line )2 points
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So pleased to have read this thread! I have the TC Spectradrive pedal and had been using 'Natural Drive' - that was OK but a bit too fuzzy for my liking so most of the time I left it switched off. I had a proper read of the toneprints available and it seems that 'Clean Boost' approximates to the Spark Booster. I had previously ignored it because I didn't want a clean boost! So I beamed 'Clean Boost' into the pedal, boosted the mids a little, cut the bass a tad and - yum, there it is - the drive I've been looking for Really fattens it up in the way I want it to. Another score for Basschat!2 points
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Really enjoying this set up at the moment. Can't make my mind up about going down the midi switcher on the stomp or getting another drive / boost pedal... or both...2 points
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The shipment of my new strings got delayed, so only just received them today. So here is my old Aria Pro II Laser Electric Classic, thoroughly cleaned, fretboard polished and conditioned, the .095 to .040 D'Addario NYXL string set installed, and action, neck relief, intonation and pickups adjusted properly : Plays and sounds absolutely beautifully.2 points
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I think you said that the body was going to be stained, @oldslapper ? If that is the case - while I fully endorse what @Cuzzie says, and especially thinning the oil a touch for the initial sealing coats - I would make a small but important change to the sequence. What @Cuzzie describes in terms of applying the initial coats with sandpaper is exactly the best way for unstained wood. It basically creates a slurry of oil and fine sawdust that acts as a perfect grain-fill/surface preparation that will eventually lead to a wonderfully organic silky smooth satin finish and a perfect base finish if you wanted to build up to a gloss. However, for stained wood, while using sandpaper is still done (I actually use very fine wet and dry c 1000-2000 grit), it is best not to use that for those initial coats. Stains - and especially water-based stains - are surprisingly thin. They do no penetrate the wood much at all. And if the surface is slurried at this first stage, the stain will certainly be sanded off in places. So - and I emphasise this is only for a stained finish - I would just change the sequence a touch. What I do is: - apply the sealing coats. Thinning is a great suggestion to get the oil properly into the wood. - I then apply 2-3 further coats (making sure they are dry between each coat) - and then I apply the next coat using 1000+ grit wet and dry, where the wet is oil, and gently apply the coat with the paper in a smooth gentle movement - pretty much as @Cuzzie describes. The same thing happens, but now the slurry is a mixture of hardened oil mixed with fresh oil rather than oil and sawdust. I check the paper regularly to ensure that minimal stain is coming off in the oil - if it is then let it dry and put a couple more coats on before repeating this process. For unstained, I do pretty much exactly what @Cuzzie suggests2 points
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Woah boys, you're missing the C5.2 points
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Playing always plugged on an amp, 0n my Takamine TB10, I used the La Bella 760N Black Nylon Tape which sound really great. You could give a try: https://www.thomann.de/fr/la_bella_black_nylon_760n.htm And I would have kept them if my strings were not quite high from the fingerboard, so I found the gauge to be a bit too strong, so I put Thomastik JF344 low tension which sound great too and I keep them. To minimize the cost of changing strings, I bought this small ultra sound machine to clean them from time to time. It doesn't make them new, but it looks like they have been around for a month. https://www.amazon.fr/iTronics-Nettoyeur-Professionnel-Inoxydable-approfondi/dp/B01D148KGC2 points
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Basses you should own before you die A Fender Precision A Fender Jazz A Gibson Thunderbird A Rickenbacker ...nuff said2 points
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I have a love/hate relationship with acoustic basses. Very few have decent volume acoustically, although the handmade Brook Otter 5 I had did a decent job, and depending on what electrics are fitted many feedback when plugged in. My current bass is an Epiphone Masterbilt Archtop bass. It’s actually quite loud unplugged, but the original Shadow piezo sounded horrible so I added a Krivo magnetic pickup and it now sounds fabulous at any volume.2 points
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Yeah, played a few at Andertons the week they came out. Too many variables though to say the exact cause of difference, the single H were heavier and had ebony or rosewood boards. It’s also the same old thing of the same spec bass won’t always sound the same on each example. I get that the signal has to travel through additional components on a HH, but they always fundamentally sound like a Ray to me. I guess the only real way to know is to alter/test a HH as a H... but life it surely too short 😀2 points
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Cheers @Reggaebass. I’m thinking of treating it to a Matt scratch plate. I am a big fan of them. Far more robust than the standard shiny finish.2 points
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For me it has to be Fotheringay. I saw them at Newcastle City Hall in the very early 70s and was totally blown away by their tight, but natural playing. Sandy Denny on lead vocal was in front of a superb group of musicians. Trevor Lucas on Guitar, along with Jerry Donahue with some great bass work from Pat Donaldson and spirited drumming by Gerry Conway. The night lives long in my memory.2 points
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Sold SPECTOR NS4 H2 bolt on Woostock NY Very good condition as new Year 2015 Ebony fretboard Preamp Aguilar OBP3 (vol, vol, stack bass treble, mid range control pull push) Weight 7,93 pounds 3.6 kgs Shipped in SPECTOR Case 1780£ / 1900€ p2 points
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Nit picky is good. We all win. 😊2 points
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2 points
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I’m probably a little more simplistic in my approach, I learn the songs I want to play then I play them. It’s probably why I’m not as good on the bass as I should be, but I can play what I need to do I’ll settle for that.2 points
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If it helps, I’m planning on going to Ashdown at the end of next week, if you want me to look at anything specific just let me know 🙂2 points
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After careful research, I have established that G4M is actually a subsidiary of @ped Industries Inc., a massive conglomerate based in the British Virgin Isles and owned (through lawyers, natch) by Basschat. It was the urgent need to control a $14bn manufacturing complex that led to @Kiwi relocating to China, and they are now the main suppliers of nanochips (for vaccine insertion) to Bill Gates. They also erected the steel monolith in Utah and the huge phallus in Bavaria. Honest guv.2 points
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Certainly having two cabs with the same speakers eliminates phase issues as all the speakers are doing the same thing at the same time. A few years ago I had a set of SWR cabs with a 4x10 and a 1x18. I replaced the 1x18 with an identical 4x10 and the difference was very noticeable.2 points
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As promised, here is one of the tracks from my tape transfer. I've listened back to it a couple of times and it's cringeworthy for several reasons, but I was only a teenager when we wrote this stuff, so it is what it is. I'm going to have a go at re-recording this one with a few of my current band members and see what we can do with it.2 points
