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Showing content with the highest reputation on 13/10/18 in Posts
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I own three Peavey B-Quad (original owner). Two 4 stringers fretted and one 5 string fretless. The two 4 stringers are 2 of the first 12 pre-production prototypes (Violet & Teal). I have a personal letter from Hartley Peavey stating so. These were on USA dealer tour at select Peavey dealers featuring Brian Bromberg himself giving a seminar/demo. It was a fantastic experience being able to sit just a few feet away from Brian as he just blew everyone away with his virtuosity. The 5 string fretless I have was custom made. It's one of the very last B-Quad made (see extended story below) I had to contact Brian to get permission for the changes (no fret lines, side dot markers placed were the frets usually are, and no "B" at the 12th position). Surprisingly he approved it! It's black, black hardware. If Darth Vader played bass this is the bass he would have. The pre-production prototypes have electronics and piezo bridge saddle pickups that were designed and hand built by Rick Turner, co-founder of Alembic. I don't know how long Turner continued to make the pre-amp for the B-Quads. I do know that he wasn't happy with the Peavey relationship at some point because I had to contact him for a piezo bridge saddle pickup replacement for one that failed. He had ONE in stock and kindly sent it to me for FREE (Thank you so much Rick!). The custom 5 string was a disaster. It took 18 months to arrive. I had to repeatedly complain and inquire "where's my bass?". It turned out that because of the above mentioned "custom" modifications, someone at Peavey thought it was a defect and had tossed in pile of other defective components. When it finally arrived, it had the wrong hardware (I originally ordered gold), and the batteries were dead. It had different electronics, different piezo bridge saddles, sounded way different, and I never really liked the way it felt. BUT - it sure looked cool. It always draws comments from the audience with the shiny fretless, almost glass-like black fingerboard. At the time I bought the first one I really had my heart set on a Modulus. The sales guy suggested I try more instruments including the B-Quads. I hadn't been playing for a while and was just getting back into the music scene. When he left I decided to try a B-Quad. To my surprise, my wife who was with me suddenly said "I like the way you play this one. You're playing things I've never heard you play before". I was stunned. Why? Because at Brian Bromberg's demo one of his pitch lines was "This instrument will bring out music in you that didn't know was there". I thought "holy s***! talk about taking the words right out of the horse's mouth!!" So I bought it. It was nearly a year later and the other B-Quad left behind from Bromberg's tour was still sitting there. I was surprised no one had bought it yet. The store manager knew I had bought the first one and caught me eyeing it again one day. So he said "give me a figure - take your time". So I thought about it and finally gave him a rather low-ball figure. He then showed me his calculator. My "bid" was $50 higher. He sold it to me for the lower price.5 points
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NOW SOLD. I bought this bass brand new very recently, but having played 5 strings for the last 20 years, I cannot settle back into playing a 4. The opportunity has arose to purchase another 5, so I am putting this up for sale. It's a great playing and modern sounding bass with a range of different tonal options from the pickups and pre-amp. It has not left the house and has barely been played. No marks and is in as new, mint condition. It comes with a brand new Spector hard case – once again as new. This is the manufacturers description: Carved European alder body with a USA figured maple top and a slice of Walnut NECK WOOD: 3pc Maple with Graphite Rods inside for additional strength FINGERBOARD: Rosewood, with mother of pearl Crown Inlays NUMBER OF FRETS: 24 SCALE LENGTH: 34" HARDWARE BRIDGE: Spector zinc brass alloy locking bridge, with intonation screws Brass Nut PICKUPS AND ELECTRONICS PICKUPS: EMG 35TW ACTIVE TONE CONTROLS: Spector TonePump +18db boost only, bass and treble CONTROLS : bridge pickup volume with push/pull function for single/dual coil selection, neck pickup volume with push/pull function for single/dual coil selection, treble boost and bass boost I am happy to accept Paypal. £1175.00 and £15 post and packing. No trades thank you; just interested in a straight sale.4 points
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4 points
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I don't quite understand why this video has generated so much opprobium. Someone has dared to suggest that open strings sound different to a fretted note; that playing in time is a good thing; that overcomplication is not necessarily a good thing and that money end of the fretboard is not a bad place to live in a band context. I can't remember what the fifth thing was, something about not changing the chord by playing the root at the start of each bar. I don't think any of that is bad advice for a beginner/early stage intermediate bassist. It may not chime with all the mega star bassists on here with their multi-million pound deals and globe-hopping tours but I recognise the sense in it.3 points
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There was a video on his Instagram page the other day playing a fodera and I thought it was one of those mock “shred” videos.3 points
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Much the same for Mark King. Obvs he's best known for his slap, but what seems to get overlooked is that his fingerstyle playing is quite breathtaking.2 points
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I think we have the answer then! The board is 7.25 at the top and probably at the bottom, thus appearing a bit looser, and the frets a bit tighter due to also being 7.25 Cor. I'm sticking to a one piece fretless neck - this stuff is too hard for my little brain 😁2 points
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I showed it some interesting local sights, have recorded a couple of short videos including a comparison with my Allen Eden Jazz. They will follow in a couple of hours once they are uploaded to Youtube.2 points
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Last night was the first of two nights at Oktoberfest at Rougemont Castle, Exeter. Full stage rig, lights, PA and sound engineer provided so just back line to load in which was a change. Sound was good on stage and out front but one of the guitarists was having issues from a crackling radio mic on his guitar which was fixed by going back to a good old cable. Over four hundred tickets had been sold so lots of lubricated punters but went down really well. We shared with an excellent oompah band who were great fun. Overnight security meant we could leave the back line and drums in situ so in theory we should just be able to plug in and play tonight. This evening is a sell out so no doubt it will be lively!2 points
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..........hang on a minute, did you write floutwounds ??? Everyone knows that only trainee prima donna guitarists can use these. Full on prima donna guitarists then move on to flouncewounds.2 points
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These make for a great drive pedal! This is a really good description of how this pedal works in drive mode, the AGS side. The Tone Hammer is a totally different animal. With the AGS off, it's just an uber clean EQ with gain boost. Very high quality, and the sweepable mids are fantastic. You know how everyone raves about the Sadowsky outboard preamp/DI pedal. I had one, until I got my Tone Hammer. The TH covered the Sadowsky thing VERY well. The low control has the same 40 hz setting with the AGS off, as does the 4k treble setting. The sweepable mids on the TH are just wonderful, though I do wish it would go up to about 2k. No big deal. The EQ on the TH is flat when it is engaged. When you also turn on the AGS, at the lowest setting, there is no hair on the notes at all. Again, NO hair at all unless your bass is just SUPER hot in terms of output. What does happen when you engage the AGS is that highs are immediately rolled off in a way that simulates a vintage tweeterless cabinet. So the tone gets warmer sounding off the bat, even though the lows and mids are still the same. The Treble control now acts more like a Presence knob does on the Sansamp stuff. It dials in grindy mids in the 2.5k region. Very slick. The lows are tightened up a bit as you boost them, so instead of getting really deep and boomy, they get fat and vintage. Again, still no hair on the notes because the AGS gain is fully counter clockwise. The mid control still allows you to cut/boost mids where you want them. Very slick. Vintage tones with no hair. As you add more AGS gain, the tone gets warmer until you get some hair, and then it starts overdriving. With the EQ flat, the overdrive tone is VERY mid-oriented such that it can sound a bit nasally and harsh. But remember, this is with the EQ flat, and most folks who are used to hearing a classic tube amp (think SVT for example) should note that an SVT is no where near flat. There's a mid scoop. So to get rid of that nasally midrange in the TH, you have to cut mids as you boost the gain. Setting the knob around 2-3 o'clock puts the mid control around the 750 hz mark, where you'll get some classic SVT'ish mid scoop going. Start cutting the mids there to get the tone you want. Cut to anywhere from 10 to 8 o'clock, and you can pretty much close your eyes and thing your running through the BDDI and not the Tone Hammer. The cool thing is that you aren't having to use a Blend knob at all to control that mid scoop. Just scoop the mids as deep as you like to get the tone you're after, and then adjust the Treble (which now more like a Presence, remember?) to get the amount of cut you want. Then, dial up the bass if you want it fat and deep, or cut it back to keep a thinner tone. Very slick, and way cool. Here's another trick about the TH that I use a good bit. I'll scoop the mids ALL the way out around 750 hz for a rock tone. With the Bass/Treble boosted to around 2 o'clock, this is very similar to the "Fat Tube" setting from the BDDI manual. But the cool trick is instead to cut treble and bass back. I'll set bass to 11 or maybe 10 o'clock, and cut treble all the way back to 8 or 9 o'clock. The result is a very warm, lower-mid dominant tone (because the upper mids and lows are cut back so far), with a subtle, understated top end. It's very B15'ish and sounds awesome with a P bass or jazz with flats. At this point, if you want more depth, rather than boosting the bass, you move the mid frequency knob clockwise, which pools out upper mids and articulation. If you want more of that, then you move the knob counter clockwise to bring those upper mids back into the tone. The highs and lows stay the same, so it's an easy way to adjust your tone on the gig to get more/less articulation in the mix. These are just a few examples of what the Tone Hammer can do. I'm a huge fan of it obviously, but I came from being a BDDI user for quite a while, and I just never could bond with the new VT pedal. I still love and have a deep respect for the BDDI, and while I don't use one myself much anymore, I know I can always make it work. The Para Driver I wouldn't bother with myself. A lot of folks around here have slammed the Tone Hammer because you can't use the AGS like a second channel, where you can engage/disengage overdrive at will without causing volume differences. I guess I can understand that, but really that's not the Aguilar'sdesign intent. Instead, think of it more as a single channel tone shaper, that will "hammer" (pardon the pun) your tone into a wide variety of directions. It just takes a little time playing with the controls to figure out what does what. I still learn new things about it all the time. It's not that it's complicated, but rather that the AGS circuit ties in very closely to the mid control, so changing the mids affects the overdrive tone, and the more gain you add, the more the low end tightens up to prevent things from getting muddy2 points
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2 points
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I managed to get a new Peavey 210TVX for a good price (must be last one in the country surely?) to replace the vanderkley. Only had it since yesterday but It sounds nice and clear - and very loud - so it looks like the vanderkley might be for sale. Not a bad rig for just over £400 all in.2 points
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Depends on what bass you’re playing really, and what DB sound you’re after (jazz and bluegrass DB are very different tones). Either way, I think it’s less about EQ and more about playing style. I’ve also found that the tiniest bit of reverb can add to a DB feel.2 points
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It's one of the BBs from that era, don't recall the numbering convention but something like a BB6042 points
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The numbers do seem to contradict but the electrical energy input can be stored by the power supply such that when demanded by say a loud low note it is used for a short period of time for that note. So the power out does not exceed the power in over the long time, only in short bursts due to being stored by large capacitors which are continually recharged waiting for the next loud passage. Using a water analogy, you could fill a large water tank via a dripping tap and then when full, release all the water very quickly in 1 go. And then repeat.2 points
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Price drop to £850 Hi guys I'm having a bit of a clear out and consolidating some gear which doesn't get used enough. This is one of the best fretless basses I've had, but I don't play it enough - so given my current financials I have to let it go. I'll need to keep tabs on it so I can maybe buy it back one day! So here it is - a very rare series 1 Vigier Arpege fretless. Built before they started using/recording serial numbers properly but estimated to be around 1985. This is the first series made by Patrice Vigier, before they started experimenting with Carbon necks. Instead, the neck has a brass laminate running along under the fingerboard for rigidity, as well as a truss rod. Although the bass lives in a hard case in the office, my wooden necked basses occasionally need adjustment for seasonal variations - but this never does. I've literally tuned it once. Most of the hardware is Vigier's own; the bridge in particular is an interesting design. The pickups are made for Vigier by Benedetti. They're single coils and very powerful. They have an unusual 'tabletop' shape which looks great. The pre-amp is very unusual, consisting of a master vol with pull boost, series/parallel switch which actually processes some useful sounds, a boost/cut knob married to a Q filter and a passive tone. Also a pickup switch (front, middle, back) and a 'passive output' (Active output on the side of body) I'm not actually sure of the body wood but similar basses at the time were made of Walnut. It's a neck through and very comfortable. You can hear it here (wait for the fretless to cut in) where I'm suing the rear pickup only for that really tight bumpy growl, which this bass excels at. With both pickups it has a very open and warm sound. It comes without a case unfortunately but I would prefer to meet the buyer anyway at somewhere convenient. I'm in York but happy to travel to meet. The train to London is quick and easy, and/or I wan meet somewhere along the M1. My parents are in Oxford so it could be an excuse to see them, too. So I'm very flexible. Weight: 4.8kg (approx, bathroom scales!) Nut width: 41m Spacing: 15/16mm Strings: Elixir 'Super Light' Setup: Super low Strplocks: Marvel, strap side included Let me know if you have any questions or would like to try it. I'm in no rush so happy to wait for the right buyer! Cheers Chris1 point
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Just saw this on Facebook Highly doubt it means anything but would be cool to see what Sire and Victor could do with a budget bass....1 point
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I stand corrected. Offence removed! Once you pointed it out I realised that it works both ways. I guess I was focused too much on the OP and lost my self-consciousness. I've seen kindness exploited and viewed as a sign of weakness that was taken advantage of. And that is exactly what happened to the OP. But it's only my experience talking, which is of course, a bias. I could never take advantage and have always shown my appreciation for the least consideration. In fact, I find little reason for anyone to be fired from a band. Usually it's pettiness and intrigue. There's plenty of room for forgiveness and only the chronically maladjusted should ever be asked to leave if they cannot remediate their situation or if they are taking advantage of the band. So, who said you can't learn from BassChat? PS. I've never owned a mullet?, but I still watch Battle Star Galactica and Star Trek!1 point
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*SOLD* Fender Rumble 500 V3 Combo + HotCovers Padded Cover + Fender USA Metal Logo Model: Fender Rumble™ 500 (V3) Combo Amplifier: Solid State/Class-D Colour: Black and Silver Controls: Gain, Bright/Contour/Vintage Presets, Drive/Level, Bass, Low-Mid, High-Mid, Treble, Master Effects Loop: 1/4" - (Send/Return) Inputs: 1/4" Jack; Aux In 3.5mm Stereo; 1/4" Overdrive Footswitch (not included) Outputs: XLR with Ground Lift; Headphones 3.5mm Stereo Voltage: 230V UK/EUR Wattage: 500W RMS @ 4 ohms (with Ext Cab), 350W RMS @ 8 ohms (Internal) Speakers: 2 X 10" Eminence Ceramic Magnet, Compression Tweeter, Twin Ports, Cloth Grille (removable) Cab Material: 12mm Baltic Ply, Black Tolex, Chrome-Nickel Corner Protectors Handle: Moulded Plastic Strap with Chrome-Nickel Plated Caps Controls: Vintage-Style Radio Dimensions: 23" X 19" X 14" (59 X 49 X 36cm) HWD I'm sure you know all about these! But my band is quiet and has a quiet drummer - this amp is simply overkill for what we're doing. At gigs I'm running it more quietly than I do for practice at home! So, very reluctantly, up for grabs is this pristine Fender Rumble 500 Combo PLUS a fitted HotCovers padded cover (with cable pocket), PLUS a genuine Fender USA metal blackface amp logo upgrade (fitted). I really want to keep it - it's one of the best gigging combos I've had - but I simply can't afford to have two gigging rigs on the go if I'm not using one of them, and that's all there is to it. The combo is in excellent working and cosmetic order - like new, basically. I'm looking for £340 FIRM, which will include the HotCovers padded cover (£50 value), Fender USA blackface amp metal logo upgrade (imported and fitted - £30 value) and postage to mainland UK via an appropriate method. I will send the buyer an ETA and tracking information. Combo will be very well-packed. Payment is via bank transfer, please. My feedback is here. If you want to try before you buy do cash on collection, price will be £320. I'm in SE London near the A205 South Circular. Here's a precis of my original review: "...All you need do is set everything flat, plug in, switch on, and there it is - that great bass sound you have in your head. And the louder you turn it up, the more natural compression you seem to get - everything gets tighter and punchier somehow - just like an all-valve amp. It's very warm-sounding and organic, and it's difficult to get a bad sound out of (it also has 3.5mm sockets for Aux In and Headphones, both stereo, for silent practise - bonus). The Class-D amp sounds excellent and even though you're getting 'only' 350W maximum without an extension cab, this combo easily handles medium to large rooms on its own. It's LOUD. With an extension cab, you'd get more headroom, certainly a lot more beans and you could play any room. Or at least up to the size of room that would surely have a PA, at which point the issue becomes moot. I think Fender have done their homework very well indeed, which would explain why these combos are shifting rapidly by the container-load. It's light, it's loud, it's affordable and it sounds great - it's a premium brand and the retro design is on-trend. What more d'you want?" Weight: 36lbs (16.3kg) So there you have it. Take advantage of the fact I play in a quiet band and get in quick, before I change my mind! I thank you! Now SOLD, thanks.1 point
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@BreadBin : you can use this photo for this month photo comp theme. I love it.1 point
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David Bailey (photographer) once said if you can't take a decent picture on a Kodak disposable camera, you can't take one with a Leica SLR either. Same with anything, the magic's in the fingers.1 point
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One of our regular pubs, not too heaving because of the weather, but not empty either. Almost didn't happen because the guitarists baby was taken to A&E so we called it off, and then it was ok, so it was back on. Just long enough for the drummer to get drunk (it takes very little time). So timing was all over the place, although mainly way too fast. Still, I wanted to do it as I had the ashdown CTM100, and it was its first outing. I did have to turn it a long way up to get to the right volume, although when setting up one of the guys in the crowd said it was too loud, but I just told him he was a crazy man, as there was no such thing! The gig went ok, I enjoyed the amp, it can sound rather nice cranked up!1 point
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Me too - on some of the photos. The only thing....and it might be an optical illusion...is that on a number of them I've looked at, I reckon that the FRETS might be a tighter radius than the board. Doesn't it look the same to you? But bear in mind I have astigmatism and varifocals. Which is another reason you might want to disregard my comments...1 point
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... yeah, still loving it, but I hadto do something. Black on black looks great, however it's not the best for visibility. So I did this. The look is growing on me, it's not my favourite, but at least I can now see the settings clearly and quickly1 point
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Actually - I think you are probably spot on! And remember - on this subject, I REALLY don't know what I'm talking about1 point
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Interesting. All of the talk of different radii and other such matters piqued my curiosity and I went and looked at my 64.. Ignoring the fact that the corners are pretty much worn down from years of something.. it does look a bit like the board is 7.5" radius top and a similar radius bottom, and thus the neck top is not far off 7.5".. but it is quite difficult to tell. If you follow the lines of the frets vs the bottom of the board then to me, there doesn't seem to be a huge difference in radius - but again it could be less scientific than that. Having measured it, the board (at the frets) is definitely 7.5" but to me, I'd be surprised if the bottom of the board is as much as 12" Having said that, my understanding was the rosewood board was cut to 1/4" or so, the underside then curved appropriately, then the top of the neck pin routed for truss rod, which was then fitted, and then the board glued to it, and then the top of the board radiused to match. It's more than possible that a standard radius was used for the bottom of the board and presumably it was determined by the channel required for the truss rod. I also believe that the logic behind this wasn't to save rosewood and thus cut costs, but to enable the truss rod to be mounted slightly higher in the neck and thus deliver more power and stiffness. This pic of some mustang necks clearly shows the truss rod higher in the veneer board on the right: I've seen some P slab boards where the truss rod nut cuts into the slab board as well which suggests Fender wanted the rod higher but it compromised the board in some way.1 point
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Quite. Pair that with a cheeky Durian side salad, and the only people left in the building would be the olfactorily challenged, and the frankly menkle... And for those that like a little visual stimulus to their delusions of wholesomeness, let's not forget Casu Marzu, that Sardinian effort which is served writhing with maggots. Yum.1 point
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His sound doesn’t do it for me... but Sire basses are so far in advance of the stuff we had in the 90s it’s unreal.1 point
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So this turned up today - Literally, its previous owner drove down from Bristol to bring it to me, which was nice. Obviously, as can be seen from the picture it is an Ashdown CTM100, and equally obviously as I got it today, I don't know really what it is like. A few initial impressions, it isn't as heavy as I thought it would be, its a shame it has jack sockets for the speakers instead of the speakons on the CTM300. and mostly, WTF is going on with the power switches. So it has a green button which is lit all the time, but switched on if it is up, and a red button, which isn't lit, but is on if it is down. I am sure that isn't normal. Anyway, will play around the house with it, but won't really find out what it is like there, but I have a gig at one of the regular pubs on friday, and I know what my amp sounds like there, so I will take this along and see what I can get out of it1 point
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That does make sense for the bass guitar, as a clean bass note starts with an amplitude peak which falls away to a much lower sustained level, then decays away. The TC Active Power Management blurb describes how the system heavily limits the initial peak, so that they effectively only have to amplify the remainder of each note. EDIT: Although we should all probably stop worrying about power, and listen to how loud an amp is and whether we like the sound, inevitably we are always going to want numbers to compare.1 point
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Sorrow for the end, but hopefully many good memories to carry. Good to be positive about the future. Hope all goes well.1 point
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although that's what she said, but what she demonstrated was don't play different open strings without damping, which is correct.1 point
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I did indeed note that you said “gently“, Mick. Just adding my two pence worth, and not suggesting you were off the mark.1 point
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So a nice new and shiny Epi T'Bird landed on the doorstep to join the Gibson yesterday and very pleased with it I am too! I'd expected some subtle differences, obviously, but what I hadn't expected was there to be so much similarity between the two. I was dreading a look alike without it sounding anything like but I have to say that within a few minutes of plugging in those fears were blown away - there is a very authentic T'bird snarl from those USA pickups - a very Duff-esque "You Could Be Mine" tone - growly, snarly and with a edge. I've been A/B 'ing it most of the afternoon and the Epi is definitely brighter although I expect that this is due to a large part in fresh lighter strings. It would be a good idea to continue the comparison is a few days when I restring the Gibson. The build quality is very good - no flaws/blemishes - with a very neat and tidy control cavity. The truss rod is free moving (the neck needed a minor tweak but nothing of any great seriousness) and the bridge dropping a couple of mm but that was about it. Despite the blurb saying a 7 piece neck I can definitely count 9 laminates as per the Gibson? The vintage sunburst definitely has more of a paduk red to it and is very pleasant on the eye - makes a nice contrast to the true vintage sunburst of the Gibson. A worthy spare and one I'm not going to dread having to reach for in the event of a string break or failure. Anyway - as per the rules, pics or it never happened.1 point
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Had two this weekend, which is a rarity. Played a pub ten minutes walk from my house on Friday, so took the new preamp pedal I made in order to go through the PA and not have to use my amp. It worked a treat, meaning I was able to walk instead of drive and have a few jars during/afterwards. So I enjoyed that one, although my fingers were killing me the next day from having carried my heavy bass case all the way home. Swings and roundabouts I guess! Last night's was good, but I spent five minutes in a mad panic when we were setting up. I wasn't getting any signal when I put my guitar through my tuner. I borrowed some leads from the guitarist to make sure it wasn't that. Nothing. Damn it! Why was it not working? It switched on ok... Then I noticed I'd put the guitar jack in the output socket and wired the amp up to the input. "Is everything ok?" "Yeah, don't know what was up but it's working now. Must have been a dodgy connection or something..."1 point
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Great day, big thanks to to the organisers, I particularly enjoyed Richard's talk. I didn't play many basses this year, but I did play a lovely wood Status belonging to Prowla and one of the short scales Jabbba built - superb work there I also love that we essentially came to the conclusion that all bases and all amps sound the same 😁1 point
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I've owned several Thunderbirds over the years including Gibsons, Epiphones and Grecos (and a Cataldo Fenderbird). In my humble opinion, the finest of them all is the current Epiphone vintage Pro. There are a couple of minor signs giving away it's relatively low cost, but in terms of playability and tone, it's marvellous. And the build quality is excellent. I don't see it as 'just a copy', but if it is, I'm happy to play the hell out of it and proudly say I play an Epiphone. Just as you are with your Mike Lull copy 😉 Putting a Gibson truss rod cover on my Epiphone would be doing it a disservice. Bear in mind that I've never really got on with the Thunderbird Gibson put out from the 80s onward. It was always too dark and rumbly for me. And what happened to all that glorious chrome? Of course, to many people that model is the definitive Thunderbird so it's all swings and roundabouts.1 point
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mine did it on the open E (I think). Then it fell over, the finger board fell off, the bass bar cracked and lots of bits fell off inside. A mender man took it to bits and glued it all back together again - no more buzz. But the mender said the buzz was actually fixed by removing my old shadow pickup from the bridge. The buzz came back recently; turned out to be the outer drum of the pick-up to amp lead was coming un-screwed and its rattling was being picked up by the pickup. Another time I was making a drummer's snare rattle more causes of double bass buzzes than you can shake a stick at. many of them not connected to the bass itself. If anything will make things buzz, it's a double bass. sorry, that wasn't very helpful .... just wanted you to know that many of us have been there!1 point
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One thing to consider is that the volume control in the Mesa D800+ is far more linear than many other amps I have played. It keeps getting louder all the way up, it is possible that the GK has much more of its power in the first 50%. I have played a few amps which fall into this category and seem incredibly loud at a one third turn of the volume knob, but then have little useable clean volume after that.1 point
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Not really a gig, but I had my first rehearsal with a potential new band in Reading last night. It was due to start @7pm but due to an accident, I didn't get there until 8 and quite honestly, once I set up I really wasn't in the mood. I found myself playing fistfuls of wrong notes, I somehow managed to wind myself up in the bass lead about 3 times and I had to use the Rehearsal studio's amp set up. I must be getting old because I couldn't hear a note I was playing during certain songs and kept thinking I was playing flat. I must admit, I do actually struggle to hear the bass more and more and we don't usually use monitors. A few people have suggested maybe looking at the Epifani 3 x 10 or the Schroeder will will apparently give more support to the bass player and allow me to hear myself better. Any ideas on this? Got an email from the drummer from the band this morning saying they thought I fitted in really well and they want me back!! What do I know eh?1 point
