Chienmortbb

Catty lol.

I used black Tuff Cab on my pre CNC cab but I am considering covering it with this. https://www.profabrics.co.uk/products/heavy-duty-texturised-nylon?variant=8359083459 it is much tougher than any of the traditional cabinet covers, comes in a range of colours ( including a nice TE green),

Agreed. I think pickups should be buffered before the volume and/or blend pots then there is no interaction.

Your string height is way too high and you will never get that out with a truss rod. Also you should not adjust the truss rod by eye. The order should be: 1. Relief-Truss rod. 2. String Height 3. Intonation 4. Leave overnight 5. Repeat steps 1-3. 6. Play. Firstly your need to adjust the truss rod. Put a capo in front of the nut, behind the first fret. With your right hand fret the fret that is just above the start of the body. The gap between the bottom of the bottom e string and the top of the 8th fret should be about 0.3mm. It would be 0.35 on a long scale. If you don’t have a feeler gauge, a business card is about right. It should just about slide easily onset the string without moving the string. Remember that if you have to tighten the truss rod, loosen the strings first. If you have to loosen the truss rod, there is no need to loosen the strings although it may make it easier. Don’t forget to take the capo off when adjusting. Once the truss rod is about right, adjust the string height with the bridge saddles. It should be 4/64” or just over 1.5mm on the bass side ( low e and a) and about 3/64” or just under 1.5mm in the treble side(under d and g strings) both measured from the top of the 12th fret. If you cannot get the saddles low enough you will need to install a neck shim. Once the string height and relief are correct, adjust the intonation. You should then let the bass rest overnight and go through the process again the next day.

It is not about the conductivity, it is about the shielding effect.

i would like to hear one as it is technically all wrong. Also nowhere to put your head (or your amp).

Just about to oredr so your story is welcome.

Funny but I find the look of Fender amps in General look a bit naff except for the tweeds.

Probably the best option.

Before you do any thing, check the neck with the neck bolts loosened. Then see whether there is enough play to realign the neck. I had the same problem and had enough play to get the strings aligned.

True but I like driving the cable from an opamp directly. However yours is a good way. I may have a spare Bourns 250K Mn if it is useful.

Two points. Aluminium tape is better for screening but it cannot be soldered. Secondly even if the adhesive on the tape is said to be conductive, it is wise to solder the joins.

Yes I have one of those and a Bassamp,100. They are approaching 47 and 48 respectively.

Setting intonation at the 12th fret allows for very basic tuners. Nowadays tuners are more sophisticated but if still makes sense the inonate at 12. It is half way between the bridge and nut and assuming all the fret slots are cut accurately, setting intonation at fret 12 will be good up and down the fingerboard. What you are trying to do is make sure the length of string from Nut to fret 12 is the same length as fret 12 to bridge.

You will need to have a buffer for each pickup and then a mixer stage. That requires either two small or one large opamp packages.