Leaderboard

Hi everyone. It was only by chance that I happened to log in last night and spot one of the sale messages from the scammer to see what was happening. I used the support function to let mods know and messaged everyone the scammer was contact with but as if this morning it looks like one person was taken in and sent money via PayPal 😞 My Basschat password was set ages ago when I was using only one password for what I considered 'less important ' websites. Lesson learned, I need to change them all now. The scammer was pretty clever and turned off the function that sent me emails when a personal message is received - maybe this should be locked on to prevent hacking? Sorry for all the faff caused by all this.

Afternoon everybody. Today I've taken delivery of a second-hand V7 I ordered online from The Bass Gallery in London. Having previously owned only a 2008 Squier Affinity Jazz Bass, which I bought when I was 17, and barely played until I was almost 30, this is a big deal for me. I have a job start date coming up, and had been window shopping a lot for the time I start to receive paycheques. A few weeks ago, a friend offered me a no-strings-attached loan, to pay back at my leisure, to get myself one already, rather than waiting. At the time, I declined, and told him I'd just be patient! For every bass I liked which had sold through by the time I was paid, another would take its place in my affections by the time I had money, I told him. Well, the other night, I think he must've got sick of the pictures I was excitedly showing to him from my window shopping, so he paypal transferred 500 quid to me and said "You work it out"! Should be plenty comfortable to pay him back within 2 paycheques if not 1, so I don't feel too bad about taking his money. And I'll work out a nice little gift to send to him for his kindness too. I went and worked it out, and this is the one I picked. It was between this, or a Fender MIM Siennaburst Mustang Bass PJ that Bass Direct have had listed in their second-hand section. Seems like a beautiful instrument, but it would've cost 50 quid more than this Sire, and I had heard so much about Sire quality that I wasn't sure I'd be seeing much value from that extra 50, when we're talking a smaller bass, with 4 shorter strings, 4 string hardware, a plastic nut, and a Fender decal on the head. Back on topic. I can't believe how much better this feels than my beleaguered '08! For the past couple of lazy years of too-little practice, I had been of the opinion that, realistically, my Squier was still outstripping my ability to play it, as-in, my skill level didn't yet warrant a new bass. But playing with this, I already know now how wrong I was! Everything about this feels like a dream by comparison. Helped, no doubt, by it having had an expert's set-up performed for me, whereas the Squier and its amateur-installed aftermarket hardware only had my own handiwork, intuition, and Google skills seeing to it. But everything about it feels absolutely rock solid. I had wondered if Sire's vaunted good value mightn't have come from corners cut on tuners, bridge etc. But I truly cannot say that turned out to be the case at all, indeed I'm shocked how solid they are here, at least on mine. And the previous owner has kept it in absolutely pristine condition. It sounds great, and further to that, it's also just relieving to be free from aftermarket EMGs which in some manner or other developed a mystery microphony problem... I'm in love with it already. White finish and tort scratchplate is my ideal JBass visual combination, too, as the cherry on top. I feel like this new bass of mine has uncorked a wine bottle of enthusiasm for practicing.

To once again reiterate a point that has been made many times before, paypal Friends and Family is the same as stuffing some tenners in an envelope and posting it to someone. If someone is your friend or your family, or equivalent and you are sure of the address they are using, then fine, use it if you trust them 100% or you don't care about the money, but otherwise don't. And if someone insists on you using it, run a mile. Also thanks to the members that flagged these posts up as dodgy.

https://xkcd.com/936/

If playing to a click is robotic or a problem, then the musician is getting it wrong. Timing isn't about spontaneity, it's about keeping good time so all the musicians are playing together as one. A click is no different to playing with a drummer who has good time. It may or may not be a good thing to let your time drift in and out, but changing time in "response to the audience" is not something you should be doing. Apparently James Jamerson had perfect timing. Good musicians make playing in time sound good, bad musicians make playing in time sound robotic.

This. A password manager is the simplest solution. If you are really old school and have to write things down try a simple option. Choose a few words that make sense to you eg if your born in June and drive a blue Golf then JuneblueGolf could be a core part of your password that you remember. Each subsequent site could be appended with a unique new part which is written down: Basschat =bC1) so password is JuneblueGolfbC1) and so on. Not perfect but better than repeating the same password and easy to remember and keep track of. Even if you are phished and a hacker gets the core password they are unlikely to spend any time even trying to guess or brute force the unique 3 or 4 characters of a different site.

that was the gist of the one I got as well, I knew it wasn't true, I've got a cover over my camera lens 🤣

That was a genuine mail - you were locked out of your account last night because the same guy had tried to log into your account multiple times, but had failed and it locked the account. Later on, after the person had moved on, I unlocked your account (and another) as I knew it wasn't you trying and they had given up on those accounts But genuinely, I never follow a link in an email anyway, I always check first.

It's the websites that say a password can't be more than 20 characters and can't contain any special characters that make me stabby.

But androids may dream of electric sheep.

There are a number of programs that you need to master to be able to do 3d printing. As with all software, some programs are easy and some are really complicated. Simple 3d printing, e.g. simple blocks and curves can be done using quite simple software, more complicated stuff requires a good design program, a decent 3d slicer and the ability to think in 3d dimensions. However none of the programs are impossible to master and to learn how to use them, though all require a certain amount of time to be put in. Tye more time you put in, the more you get out. I have put more time into 3d printing than to playing the bass, so I'm less bad at 3d printing than playing (it's all relative). I use Fusion 360 as my main design program. I think I have tried every free version and every demo for 3d design software. However my tests might vary from a few hours to a few days. I do not claim to be an expert in any of them, just more familar with one or two.Depending on what you want to do, you may get away with simpler programs but a decent 3d design program takes time to learn. I gave up on F360 a few times as it's sometimes very odd to use. However the more time I put in, the better I got. The advantage of F360 is a it's a full-on professional 3d design system and is specifically targeted at that audience. The disadvantage of F360 is a it's a full-on professional 3d design system and is specifically targeted at that audience. It's big, it can do anything but you have to learn to use it. You will not learn it in a weekend or even a month unless you are very good. t took my 3-4 months before I became familar enough not to tear my hair out in fristration. Thats not full time, thats a few hours a week. I strongly suspect that any other design program at F360 level will be just as complicated. Once you have F360 working and there are a lot of videos and the community help is very good, you design your stuff, and here's the pickup surrounds I did for @TheGreek You do a simple extrustion to get some depth to it and you get this You export this STL file to a 3d slicer for conversion from STL into a fileformat that a 3d printer uses. All a 3d printer does, is play battleships in 3 dimensions extruding out thin lines of plastic filament. You can control just about every single apsect of everything when printing, from the speed, the width of the lines, the temperature, the bed temperature to parameters that I have no idea what they do. I use PrusaSlicer as I have two Prusa MK3S+ printers which are probably considered high end prosumer devices. I used to have a Creality Ender 3 pro which is entry level and is very good. The Prusa's are a lot better but 4-5x the price each. Anybody starting should get a cheap printer and learn, you can pick them up for less than £200 now. PrusaSlicer converts the file you have loaded into gcode files that the printer understands. It also sends the output file to either an SD card that you manually insert into the printer or to something like Octoprint which is a network print server for 3d printers. The 3d printer will then work its way from the bottom of the object upwards and lay down a thin layer (e.g. 0.2mm) of filament as told. When doing the design you ned to think about overhangs and where support is needed, so sometimes you print the object in an unusual orientation to avoid an overhang. This is easier to demonstrate than to explain and once you've seen it, you understand The rings above took a few hours as I did them at a higher quality, but you can change to work in draft mode or just about anything else. As with all things, the best way to learn is to do it, to print simple things and move to complex things, here's a tube ring that is fully parameterised for mounting computers on telescopes. This version is approximately 200 versions along. Its taken 18 months to get to this. There's a lot of things in here to make it just right, Hope this helps as a primer to 3d printing. Rob

Hopefully if you contact Paypal or your bank and explain what happened, they may be able to do something for you. I know its already been said countless times before, but please, please don't use Paypal F&F to buy anything on here unless they ARE your friend or family and you know its them. Insist on normal goods/services paypal, and if the fee is an issue for the seller, offer to pay the extra 3% to cover it (and yourself). If they still don't agree to use it, and cash on collection isn't an option, run a mile. Thanks to those who reported the threads and alerted the team, we acted as quickly as we could. An event like this is VERY rare on Basschat but everyone needs to remain vigilant, especially when it comes to sending money to people you don't know in an insecure way. And yeah, if it's too good to be true, it probably isn't.

Almost all account hacking happens because someone uses the same username and password across numerous websites. Eventually they get lured to sign in to a fake site (phishing) or they sign into a real site with poor back-end security, and their username and password get on a list and sold to other scammers. The end-user scammer hunts around to find the sites that the victim uses, trying their username and password until they get into a useful account like Basschat. The most important thing you can do to protect yourself is to use a different password on every single website or service. We're told that passwords need to be hugely long and complicated which no doubt helps, but it's vanishingly rare for a scammer to try and guess a password. Even a password that's a couple of letters or digits different to another one that you use will provide hugely improved protection

Yes but if that person is a scammer pretending to be a person you know as in the case of Chaypup (who I have had great deals with previously) it would be hard not to be taken in. I’m glad that nobody lost out this time.

Depends - I will do friends and family for any amount that I am reasonably confident on and I have established that the person I am talking is a real genuine person and I would be prepared to send them an envelope of cash, but if it is a large amount that I am not prepared to lose I would pay ordinary paypal, it is only a few quid more and you get protection on it.

Welcome Richard As Jack says, you probably won't lose money on a £10 amp but there is so much good gear available for not a lot nowadays that it's worth seeing what else is available. Top marks to @pst62 for the offer of a freebie - that amp will keep you going for a while. A useful piece of advice we should offer to all new members - stay away from the marketplace!! When I joined I had three basses which pretty much covered all my needs. I have significantly more now and have had lots and lots of gear pass through my hands in the time. In this I am not alone. Beware!! 😉😉

Hi Richard, I'm in Somerset and have this Fender Rumble 100 2x10, it's covered in that fluffy stuff which is a bit tatty, but it all works fine. If you can arrange and pay for a courier to pick it up it's yours.

Took delivery of this guitarbuild Jazz body yesterday with a maple flame top & swamp ash. Really undecided on a finish except I’ll be using Osmo oil but not very sure how to go about sealing the swamp ash or if I need too. I’m after a natural finish really. The body’s a 60’s Jazz hence the hole emitted for the bridge wire.

Just to warn others. I saw an HX stomp on here for sale for £200 and when looking it showed me other ads that included a road worn jazz bass for £450! I was on it fast and borrowed £300 off my Dad to secure it and planning to sell my 51 bass to fund it but the replies seemed fishy and odd about me sending it in USD. I was about to send thinking no way I could get scammed on here when the account holder messaged me saying don’t pay he’s been hacked literally as I was loading up PayPal to pay. Just a warning. Don’t buy the road worn bass,Arkham preamp,HX stomp or Mesa boogie subway that’s on here (although maybe they are gone now) phew!

I find metronomes and click tracks to be highly over rated. Never found one that could keep up with me.

Correct and Yes 😁 You'll be lucky if anyone realises you're playing bass never mind its a fiver 🤣 Have fun 👍

All the criticisms I've ever seen about playing to click tends to come from people who have pre-conceived ideas about what that "does" to a band and usually have no real experience with working with a click professionally. One small example: If a musician in a band (and I haven't singled out drummers here) is 'responsible' for keeping time to a click and wanders back and forth over the tempo, it will make the music sound clunky as all the musicians will wander too a bit like watching cars speed up and slow down in a long line of traffic. Sounding lifeless is also the result of not spending time working with the backing tracks and click to get the best out of a performance. So, I agree with you Tauzero - bands can sound incredibly powerful and lively to click. Case in point, my new friend Darby Todd uploaded a video of his paying with Devin Townsend with the click included so you can hear exactly what he is doing. Of course Darby is a top-tier session player who is locked with razor sharp timing - but there is no way that you can say that his performance lacks drive, energy, passion and emotion. A quick lesson for playing to click - and I'll see if I can find it, is the little viral short of Carol Kaye demonstrating how she sets up her metronome to be the "2" and "4" of 4/4, treating it like a snare drum part, making it feel more natural to vibe over. Long story short, you can program a click track with different sounds and accents to make it feel more natural and to not get lost in a song structure rather than a mind numbing high pitched click!

Mrs Zero is in a duo with a guitarist using backing tracks, hence playing at set tempo. Their performances aren't lifeless and robotic in the slightest. A lifeless and robotic performance will only be produced by a lifeless and robotic band.

I was just thinking my apartment entry buzzer speaker has more xmax than that driver 🤓

You were the other account that got locked that I alluded to up the thread a bit (didn't want to name names!) No, that is a different sort of thing, we have had a couple of those recently, that was just an attempt at spam, this was something by a person more targeted and specific. Sadly if he has been successful in some way I would suspect that he may be back to try again. If people can be vigilant, and report anything suspicious, and avoid any adverts insisting on F&F PayPal that they don't know, this would help

An explorer is trekking through a jungle. In the distance is the sound of tribal drums. All of a sudden the drums stop. The native guide suddenly looks very worried and agitated and says "Oh no, no, no. Drums stop. Very bad, very bad". The explorer asks "Why is it bad? What happens when the drums stop?". The guide replies "When drums stop, bass solo start"

Says he didn’t mean it and was supposed to be funny. 🙄 https://fb.watch/k_CW28Elks/

On My Radio - The Selector

Welcome. For some years I just had one bass. I thought it was all I could need. I was terribly wrong.

And praise be for the admins whom I presume removed the ads

Pretty much anything from the charts in the early 80s, hated it all back then, love it now, Duran/Wham/Ballet/Mode etc.

I acquired a Spector 6er recently - plays OK but really needs a makeover. The original Holoflash finish was sprayed over in a non- descript grey, has mismatched machine heads and needs a general tidy up. I've damaged my hand so I'm limited to how much I can play - no time like the present, especially as the weather is improving so I can work outside - I took it upon myself to strip the bass down and take the body back to natural. Alder, I believe - please correct me if I'm wrong. Before: I've also taken it upon myself to soften the curves on the body and get rid of those right angles. Currently: Plan is to replace the pvc scratchplate with a leather one. I've managed to grab some leather scraps from ebay for a fiver - more than enough to make mistakes without worrying too much. May need to glue the leather to something to prevent it curling off - trip to craft shop when the leather arrives. Still much more to do - more sanding tomorrow. More photos as it progresses.

I built a WordPress plugin based on that comic: https://wordpress.org/plugins/correct-horse-battery-staple/ Also I use 'correct-horse-battery-staple' as my password everywhere including basschat as it is the most secure password you can have. 😁

The Simone on here strikes me as the perfect combination of tube/transformer DI but with added eq and just a really solid pedigree. Noble meets Monique kinda thing.

Just donated a tenner via the group fund set up by RikiB.

I'm not sure 8 characters is still considered "good" in 2023 😟

So the Thomann bag turned up today and first impressions are very positive. Good quality material and I like the way the internal dividers are fully sown in, so none of the stuff in one pocket can slide under into another. Three good external zipped pockets too, along with a couple of strong looking handles and a padded shoulder strap 😎

Enjoying the genius that is Stuart Morrow:

I had a message yesterday in my associated basschat email account telling me I had been locked out of basschat temporarily due to site issues. It asked me to log in again through the link provided in the email. The email had my user name. However, I didn’t follow through with the instructions, but quickly looked on here to find I wasn’t locked out. I never follow links in emails unless it’s actioning a request I’ve made on a site I know and trust. The scum are sniffing around.

@lownote @Linus27 Not for me due to a lack of talent... but, my Son loves his Vintage... some how he got him his 15th birthday present about 6 months early...

Thermal power ratings are worthless, as are driver sizes. The only way to know how cabs compare on paper is with SPL charts and driver excursion specs, which are written with invisible ink, stored away in the deep recesses of Churchill's bunker, guarded by Agents of Shield. 🤥 Since the K212 is local go try it, along side the 210. Then you'll know for sure.

I'm in a no hit wonder band, if that helps?