tauzero

The three of them together after the fretless had its fingerboard replaced:

Thumb 5 NT, 1988: Defretted Thumb with neck reprofiled to JD profile (since this photo it's had an ebony unlined board fitted): JD Thumb made in 1987 - the bass I've had the longest since I bought it at the start of 1988.

Rewire the 4 ohm 2x15 so it's two 8 ohm 1x15s sharing a box, get a second Elf, and split the signal between them.

Not just the soldering, it looks like there are stray wisps of copper too. I'd desolder each joint, cut off the end of the wire and re-strip the insulation with not too much wire exposed, make sure all the cores are together and resolder it.

I have actually put Dyno labels with "Tx" and "Rx" onto them. However, this requires that the user actually looks at them prior to plugging them back in rather than thinking they remember which is which after unplugging them. And colour coding them would mean having to remember which colour means what, and that's not going to happen.

Reading the manual, you can have TRS stereo from the output socket alone or left channel from the output socket and right channel from the CTR socket, both presumably TRS for balanced output.

You didn't also happen to ask if you could fit a dead elf into the boot of an MX-5 did you? Asking for a friend.

You haven't mentioned the worst sin of all - the feral apostrophe in "has picked up some 'authentic' play wear in it's time!".

The DVD and live CD should net him a bit.

Somewhere very close to me. But I already have a bad back and an allergy to Trace-Elliot.

I've got about 30 basses, including Seis, Warwicks, and Ibanezezezes, and in that lot is one modified Squier and no Fenders. And I'm perfectly happy with that mix.

FTFY

How come the Doors get two hours then?

FTFY

I'm impressed, the Ruf Guitars website is absolutely dreadful. The Status one was very 1990s with its click to enter design, but Ruf is so much worse.