tauzero

That buyer must be crackers.

If your eyesight is as blurry as mine, check resistor and capacitor values before putting them in. Something like https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166388291985 is really useful.

I always use one except when I'm using the Nux Mighty Plug. Leads just get in the way. With bug-type wirelesses, it's hardly any more onerous than plugging a lead in.

As the setup has worked without noise elsewhere, the lack of an isolated power supply wouldn't seem to be the problem.

With most other jack socket types the contacts are accessible so you can bend them a bit if they start getting baggy. You can't do that with barrel jacks, hence them being consumable items.

Why aren't you respecting my opinion?

Get a 5-string and use conventional music paper.

Headstocks are truly awful things. Make a bass unbalanced, add a load of unnecessary weight, make it less convenient to tune, all for the sake of putting an advertising hoarding at the end of the neck. I feel that headstock addicts are to be pitied rather than raged at, poor creatures, clinging on desperately to those awful relics of the past. It isn't as if they can even agree on what is a good shape for a headstock, they argue about them endlessly, which shape will satisfy their terrible craving, which shape repels them utterly. And then trying to repair the damage done to the instrument's balance by paying hundreds of pounds for super-light tuners.

The only real limitations with basses tuned E-G (4), B-G (5), B-C (6) are that you can't play below a bottom E on the 4, or more than around 2 octaves above top G on the 4 or 5 (depending on number of frets). Plus the number of strings dictates the maximum number of notes in a chord, if you're that way inclined. Everything else is optional.

It's been a long while since I had a P [1] but IIRC the jack socket is one of these: If so, you can gently bend the connector which goes to the tip inwards a bit so it presses more on the tip, which will also push the plug over a bit and make better contact with the sleeve. [1] Stop sniggering at the back

I've got the same. Excellent bit of kit. Added: I use it in house for doing intonation. Gigging, I use either the Zoom MS-60B tuner or the HX Stomp tuner depending on what I'm doing for effects - both of them are fine for tuning for live and studio work.

Well, you're going from a completely disassembled state to a completely assembled one, and doing it yourself, so yes. The next step is to be @disssa, deconstruct an existing design, design your own PCB, and build that. Next stage from that is to get a copy of Horowitz and Hill and any relevant IC design documents and design your own effect from the ground up. I suspect that even the most dedicated purist would stop short of manufacturing their own components, so that's about as DIY as you could get.

Mrs Zero and I used to use the Digitech Vocalist Live 4. Haven't used it for years now though. Run the guitar through it and it can detect key, put effects (separately) on vocals and guitar, and add up to 4 harmonies. Someone's done a demo video:

Also have a look at Seis (Flamboyant and Original), although they don't come up that often and the price seems to have gone up a fair bit since I got mine.

I made one of those recently. All came together quite easily, although I had some sort of brain fade when doing the drilling and put the hole for the LED on a direct line between the two upper pots, so had to stick a screw in that hole and drill a higher one. Must get round to putting some labels on it.

I haven't got the app to hand, but doesn't it allow partial saving of snapshots, or snapshots of a subset of parameters? I've only ever saved complete snapshots but I'm sure the snapshot screen has much more than that on it.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185016145662 ?

Freeware editor for Zoom effects pedals - https://tonelib.net/tonelib-zoom.html However, the B6 isn't on the list of supported devices.

Are all your pedals 9V and fairly low current? You could use a USB-C power bank that will output various voltages and a dongle to tell it to output 9V - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314790280799 if you don't like soldering (will need a polarity reverser from centre positive to centre negative) or https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295636499200 if you're up to soldering (you need to desolder and move a tiny little jumper). That removes your effects from the mains.

My somewhat uglier Micro cab:

My 36 year old Thumb has no noticeable fret wear. It got 20 years of regular use and occasional use since then. The barrel jacks do indeed pack up, but that's because they're barrel jacks which are inherently unreliable on whatever bass they're fitted to.

Hayman 4040. Rickenbacker (assorted). Hofner 500/1. One of these is a decent bass. The other two are more famous.

Does it have to be Google Authenticator? Not another 2FA app such as Authy?

I think I have the same number of 4-strings as 6-strings, and quite a lot more 5-strings. Looking at the Bass Gallery, there's about five times as many 4s on sale as 5s, and at Bass Direct it's about two to one. Those, of course, are higher-end instrument shops - GAK have 455 4-string models and 121 5-string models, so though 5-strings will probably never overtake 4-strings, they're not exactly niche things. Both Ibanez and Cort when bringing out their new headless models seem to have concentrated more on 5-strings than 4. I don't use the 4-strings for gigging because I've learnt everything on 5s and although I could revise my fingering, I wouldn't play as smoothly and there's absolutely no point. I do take them out to open mics now and then, just to let them know I still love them.

No, it's the reverse, there's a lot of "well I don't need five strings so there" that goes on, as if we 5-string players are somehow inferior.