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Showing content with the highest reputation on 17/04/24 in Posts
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Owen has a problem with his neck! Or more correctly, Owen has a problem with one of his necks. Or to be utterly precise, Owen has a problem with a G&L 5-er neck that has a snapped off truss-rod end. Getting fretboards off in one piece always carried a risk - but I haven't lost one recently and so it is worth stacking up the odds a little further and giving it a go. It's a very nice neck - but those edges are mighty thin, with the fret slots almost fully through to the maple: And so there is the possibility of ending up with 22 rectangles of fretboard rather than one whole one. BUT, it's a case of taking that risk or scrapping it. Most fretboards (but not all) are glued with heat-softening wood glues - and so you basically heat the fretboard up with an iron or similar (I use a travel-iron) and then ease a blade, and eventually a thin steel sheet slowly, slowly, slowly along until it's off: And it's still in one piece! You can see that the truss rod was fully tensioned when the adjuster-end snapped off. Interesting, though, that only one half of the strip is bowed. Sort of defies physics - I've never seen that before but maybe this is why it wasn't doing the business: Should be a pretty straightforward replacement as long as I can get a rod that fits properly.11 points
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Beautiful walnut finish SB1000 in great condition for an instrument made 43 years ago. Plays incredibly even over the neck with minimal relief and a nice low action. Iconic 80s honking tone that excels in cutting through the mix. A few dings and wear in some areas but otherwise pristine with everything working as it should. Specs: Ash body, with a maple and walnut laminate neck and ebony fretboard. String spacing is 16mm with a nut width of 45mm. Weighs around 5kg. Will ship at buyers expense.6 points -
For sale is a mesa boogie bass 400+. it has had all new tubes and a full service at surrey amps (mesa specialist) and rewire due to the graphic not working 100% The head comes with a wooden case/enclosure. given the recent service and the work that's gone into making this like new, I'm looking for £1500. i am open to offers too and can ship, albeit probably expensive given its weight. if you'd like to negotiate price i am all ears. i have valued this in line with other online sales and they range from £1250-2000 plus shipping. happy to discuss if you have any more questions5 points -
I recently bought back this stunning 99 streamer LX after having pined for it back for 15 years!! But … my circumstances have suddenly and unexpectedly changed and Im gutted to say that I need to move it on again The good: It’s stunning!! It’s set up well and plays beautifully, I’ve owned several Warwicks and this one is special - there’s just something about it. It’s snarls and pops and slaps and bites and it’s just so comfy to play. It has songs in it. There’s a hipshot extender and Schaller straplocks and brand new EMG pickups with an EMG preamp - a month ago! New barrel jack fitted too. Everything works as it should. Including the truss rod. The neck is beautifully figured with a lovely holographic depth to it. But I can’t capture it in a photo. The No so good - and the reason for the cheap price! It’s had a knock - meaning the top is cracked around the knobs. See the pics. It’s visible up close, but it’s totally sound. You can’t move it or push it etc. it’s still perfectly solid and sound and seems to require no repair etc. it’s fine. It just looks rough up close. Also, there’s some buckle rash on the back - hard to picture though and one of the screws on the bridge pickup has no head - it height adjusts fine so it’s never been an issue, but there are marks around it. Hence im selling this gorgeous, well set up bass with brand new EMG electronics at just £670 ovno collected only from Cheltenham.5 points -
I've started on the bracing. The blanks I've got are very oversized, so by cutting some off at the line I can end up with a brace which is almost perfectly quarter sawn: Putting it onto the platform, I use a biro sticking through a Gibson selector switch washer to mark out the shape of the top onto the blank. You can chose either Rhythm or Treble depending on whether you want thundering lows or blistering highs.....It also means you can get a pretty much exact contour. Because the top is arched in both directions I mark both sides of the blank. With a spokeshave I then carve down to the line... ... My makeshift 'go-bar deck' is ugly but very effective. I find myself using it all the time either for gluing or just holding stuff down. Here I'm using it for both. The brace get's held in position on top of a piece of sandpaper (150G). You can adjust the go-bars very quickly so they apply just the right amount of pressure so the brace is held in place but you can still slide the sandpaper back and forth to get good fit. Finally the brace can be glued down in the same way. I use West System epoxy. I use the Ken Parker method (as usual). Which is wet the brace, put it onto the top, then remove it so you have an imprint: The idea is to let the epoxy soak into the wood as much as possible. I've got a silicone brush which I use to go back and add more epoxy to any parts that soaked it up. Finally, clamping in the go bar deck. One of the (many) good things about epoxy is that it needs very little clamping pressure, just enough to stop anything moving. Squeeze out I clean up with a cotton bud soaked in acetone. Tomorrow, brace number 2...5 points
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🎶 "It's the Time of the Fivers It's the thrill of the Five Rising up to the challenge of our rivals And even Jaco, with a butter knife, couldn't deny That for some, it's the time..... Of the Fivers!" 🎶 (sorry, it's been a long day)5 points
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Their website is pretty awful and has been known to show gear that they sold months ago! However, they are good people to deal with, but I wouldn't do so online. I would strongly advise you to give them a ring and have a chat about what you are interested in.5 points
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Status King Bass Std 5 2015 model, one owner from new, all paper work and case. Has the Tri-leds on fingerboard face. Used but loved, I’m still 50/50 about selling as it’s not getting much use. Possible trade for modern MM Sterling/Stingray 4. More pics and info - just ask.4 points -
This is a glorious sounding amp that has more than enough power for pretty much any scenario. I've regularly gigged this for the last year and it's always sounded great and never let me down. Looks awesome on stage with the twin VU meters too. It's in great condition and comes with a custom padded cover. Collection preferred, but willing to meet up within a reasonable distance, or I can post. I work in a warehouse so have access to lots of packaging material. More info here4 points -
Very chuffed with my second 1st Gen ME recently purchased from Thomann, can't believe it at only £349. It is also much lighter than a Sire in the same price range and the quality on this one is truly excellent, quiet electrics, a nice set up will low buzz free action, great fret work and a beautiful neck. Really happy with my decal job too4 points
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I ordered The P bass Looks like October for incoming. Gives me a chance to get rid of a couple I'm not using in the meantime. Will report back.4 points
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I use a few different wireless units (for practice, rehearsal and gigs) and the ones that dont come with a clip (LEKATO WS-90 and Smoothound) I came up with a solution that works for me. If you're jumping around the stage then you'll probably need something more substantial. I simply use a hair wrap the strap end is fed through, patch cable and jack to jack socket!4 points
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So in swapping out the stock tuners for a set of Gotoh Res-O-Lites, I managed to crack the headstock finish on my brand new Sire bass! My initial plan was to have someone repair it professionally, but in my late-night googling I discovered GluBoost products and decided to repair it myself. I bought GluBoost Fill n' Finish thin and a can of the GluDry accelerant, plus some fine wick tips to apply. Steps were as follows: i) Remove B E and A tuners ii) Remove worst of the cracked poly to try and get as close to a flat finish as I could to minimise sanding. iii) Fill cracks with the Fill n' Finish, spraying the GluDry after each pass. The crack on the edge took one fill, the other needed about three. iv) Wet sand with 800 grit to get the finish flat, then carry on working up through the grits to finish at 12000. v) Buff and polish I do need to get some swirl remover and give it a final buff, but I am really pleased with the results. Yes, you can still see it a bit, but it's sanded flat and overall for £40 and a couple of hours work it's a job well done. Particularly impressed at the total lack of white bloom in the glue. I would recommend these products without hesitation. Before And after4 points
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Get some really good earplugs. Get another 212 same as the other one. Stack them tall. Assumes the first cab is 8 ohm. You seem to think it is but worth checking. If it is 4 ohm you are SOL. In case of 4 ohms you could add a powered sub and line out of your fx loop to it and have it return the highpass back to your fx return.4 points
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So with the p bass not gaining much interest along with my second thoughts on it im now offering what has become a main gigging bass for me. This is a bitsa bass bought off @AndyTravis of this parish not too long ago. He has done a great job of replicating a 78 Jazz bass using a white Squier CV body and electrics, combining it with a 90’s MIJ 75RI neck (which is absolutely sublime and dates to 85/86 according to the serial!), age correct scratchplate with correct thumbrest positioning, F branded neck plate and Fender machineheads. Its gives a deep growly yet clear tone. For openness i bought it for £550 but it was whipped straight into Jacks Instrument Services in Manchester where he performed an advanced set up including fret dress, full maple pocket shim, new nut, new Elites halfwounds and electrics clean at quite a cost. I do also have a tort guard i can throw in. Usual basschat proverbials of butter, heft growl etc. located in Bolton but can arrange meets.3 points -
Euphonic Audio (EA) Whizzy 10 inch speaker Cab. Actually designed by a rocket scientist, I believe! 45 Hz to 5.5khz range. Sensitivity of 102dB. Power handling is 250 watts RMS. Excellent condition, no signs of use. Very light at 8kg. 2 speakon sockets at the back. Has tilt option., handle on the bottom of the cab opens out. Only used in small pub gigs as backline. Am also selling a Gallien Krueger MB200 amp, so for £300, you can get a powerful, small, very light Bass rig..Cash, in person only in the Bristol area, may travel a bit...3 points -
Sold. Price now £445.00 for a 1000 watt powered 2x10. Stonkingly good powered cab offered here, in perfect working order and very good cosmetic condition. A few very minor marks/dints which can be seen in the photos. I believe there are 3 variants of the cab, this one being the second, so same size and power as the later version, I think a tad heavier. Available for viewing and trial near Northampton, could potentially meet to complete the sale within a radius of about 75 miles. Not prepared to post. Here's some of the 'bumf' from the site: WJ 2×10 1000 WATT POWERED BASS CABINET WAYNE JONES AUDIO “The Wayne Jones Cabs Are As Good As It Gets” (2018 Review) “The Best Powered Cabs I’ve Heard” Two Editor Awards from Bass Player Magazine ~ Bass Player Magazine DIGITAL DSP FOR POWERED BASS CABINETS Now you can have a 1000 Watt Compact, Portable High End, High Powered, Crystal Clear, Full Range 2×10 Bass Cabinet (40 Hz – 20 KHz) that only requires a pre-amp, your bass & yourself. I still use the same 10” driver design that was in my previous model (if it aint broke don’t fix it) with air dried Kevlar Impregnated cones, a 70mm voice coil, massive ferrite magnets (in preference to Neo). A state of the art switch mode D Class power amp with amazing dynamics, 20Hz to 20KHz frequency range (see specs) is built into the rear panel of the cabinet with a grill to protect it. I could have used what most other companies are using but this power amp far surpasses them with specs & amp quality. Perfect for my cabinets as they need the power to move those drivers to give you all those frequencies. As opposed to other cab companies where their speakers do not deliver all the frequencies as present & as balanced as mine. Dimensions Height: 64.5cm Width: 40.5cm Depth: 51.5cm (25.4 x 15.95 x 20.28 In) Weight 29kg, 65lbs Cabinet Specs Power Amp – State of the art D Class switch mode power amp 1000 Watts with heat sink plate mounted into the rear of the cabinet. Internally the power amp mains cable has a heavy duty ferrite on it to shield from RF interference. Drivers – 2 custom made Wayne Jones 10” drivers with Aluminium cast frames, Kevlar impregnated cones with specially formulated Eucalyptus pulp Voice coil – 70mm Magnet – Massive Ferrite. Individual driver specs. 40 Hz to 4.5 KHz Tweeter – JBL, 1.75” Voice coil Crossover point 3.5Khz Control plate- Brushed Stainless Steel Mains in Power – IEC XLR balanced Input LED readout for thermal & amp; clip Indication.3 points -
NBD Decided to pull the trigger on this, arrived today. New to Sandberg, wanted a new Fender Jazz to replace a Mexican deluxe a regrettably sold 3 years ago, but heard good things about Sandbergs and having shopped around saw this in sale at Bass direct (Bit of a bargain)3 points
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To be fair to G&L, there is a 10 year guarantee on their instruments. They sent me a brand new neck from the US at their expense without even flinching.3 points
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As everyone is sick of hearing me say now. Line6 Helix Floor. As my core sounds I'm using the 10 band graphic EQ, Teemah! Distortion and 70s Chorus for one band; and Obsidian 7000 Distortion/EQ, 70s Chorus and Elephant Man Delay for the other. No Amp or Cab models, except where I'm using an amp specifically for the drive sound on a couple of Presets.3 points
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For Sale or Trade Merlos Singlecut Custom 5 Bass Body: Dibétou Top: Olive Wood and epoxy resin Neck: One piece maple Fretboard : Ebony Merlos 3 Band Electronics Active and Passive Bass located in Spain! price : 2200 euros3 points -
Hi All, After a week of waiting I finally received my Ibanez SR655e and I couldn't be more happy! It feels like the body was moulded just for me. As a bonus it also came strung with flats so I get to try flats! Excuse my poor photography it's not my forte3 points
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I am well chuffed to have taken delivery of this ACG Graft 4 today.3 points
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I adore mine, it nails that beautifully twangy/clicky 60s muted bass sound. If you buy new, factor in a set up with some heavier strings, the factory ones are too light to be effective as bass strings. I don't use it in my current band but it's one of my favourite messing around at home basses. It's just such a fun instrument.3 points
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Baby It's Code Outside - Tom Jones & Cerys Matthews3 points
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My Bass VI journey started with a Burns SSJ that was good fun. Although I bought it for a studio project where a Glen Campbell type line was required, that song was quickly shelved. It sat in storage for a year until finding new life playing 80s Goth type stuff. Seeing bands like The Cure using them, reignited my interest. I upgraded to The Squier ltd edition purple one and it immediately felt better. The string spacing is obviously different to a regular bass but I approach it as a different instrument. The finish is excellent, the tuners are stable and the frets / hardware all well finished. The one little gripe is that the tremolo very occasionally rattles on the lower notes BUT this doesn’t do that through the amp. I think a lot of people buy these for projects, only to sell them on so there are plenty of second hand bargains to be had with a bit of investigation. Here's my colour coordinated picture I have previously shared (featuring the old boy in the tuxedo suit).3 points
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Y,Y,Y, Delilah- Tom the Voice3 points
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"Real" is entirely subjective, as is what constitutes a "powerful, low, fat bass sound". I'm a Helix user, but either device should be capable of producing a suitable sound so long as you program with your ears and not with your eyes. Despite having ditched my traditional bass rig for just the Helix going direct into the PA, I very rarely use any amp or cab models. Remember that the important elements of your sound that the amp gives are the EQ section and, if it has valves, the drive sound. The cab is just essentially a LPF. I found that using a good EQ module and a distortion module is far more flexible, as you can mix and match to find a combination that you like, and the two elements are not tied together in a single amp sim. If you do decide to use amp sims don't forget to try all of them - not just the ones that are supposed to be for bass. Remember that many vintage bass amps are simply guitar amps with a different name and occasionally the EQ frequencies adjusted for the lower notes. And unlike the real thing there is no possibility or damaging anything by using the "wrong" amp model. The worst that can happen is that you won't like the sound, in which case you can move on and try another.3 points
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Music lessons in my schools (70s-early 80s) were largely a waste of time... There was nothing in primary, just a bit of singing at assembly. And in secondary we had music in years 1-3, 1 lesson a week. They consisted of Mr Bird playing some music (usually Young Person's Guide, or The Planets, or for a contemporary feel (!), Joseph and His Amazing Technicolor Yawn). Then folks would say if they liked it or not, though because he wasn't particularly good at discipline this usually meant him shouting above a general cacophony of rude comments. And then we'd do some very rudimentary theory. This theory would be tested at annual exam time. However, they discovered I had private piano lessons after I got 100% in the first exam (my mum's a piano teacher) so from then on I got different exams from everybody else - though this was usually about grade 1 theory when I'd already done grade 5... So music wasn't really a thing for us at school. Though in 6th form, Mr. Q had the bright idea of forming a one-off band to play before a viewing of that banned anti-nuke film (wot I can't remember the name of). I played keys, Cossack played guitar and Mouse played his violin bass - someone rattled a tambourine in the background while we did a couple of BarclaysBankHarvest and Dylan songs. I was so fascinated by Mouse's bass that I took it up when I got to Uni - and strangely it turned out that the Hofner bass belonged to Mouse's brother, our very own @lurksalot!3 points
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The filler experiment continues, it does appear that a wood filler works best at the moment. I don't need a lot but PETG is quite difficult to sand down, it's pretty tough. Did a lot of filling yesterday, let it dry overnight and if I find an hour today, I'll have another go. It turns out that PETG fills the sanding disks very quikcly, even though not a lot comes off. Its a funny material. Also been experimenting for the first time with multi colour printing. As my printer is limited to 220 by 200mm (or so), I assumed I would have a pickguard made. The pickguard I wanted is below Currently I have to print this in two pieces, but I wondered if I could print it in two pieces, join it together with a backing plate and sand it down. I then wondered about putting a layer of white in the black. I've never bothered with multicolour printing, but set it up in PrusaSlicer, put a roll of white PETG and ended up with this. Quite pleased as the white line is subtle. It's a sandwich of 1mm black, 1mm white and 1mm black. There's a chamfer around the edge as well. I'm not too concerned about the top as I'll sand that down, spray paint it and then either lacquer it or epoxy resin it. The finish is still to be decided. I'll print the other half of the pickguard during the day and glue them together. A tiny amount of filler along the seam and I suspect that it will be invisible. If this works, then larger multi colour pickguards are an option. Rob3 points
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I'd get this setup then buy red leather sofas to match.3 points
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Sides are nearly finished. The final kerfing was glued in this afternoon....3 points
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Really nice Sire V7 for sale. Unusual colour combo as switched the original white pick guard with a black one from another Sire I had at the time and I think its a big improvement! Has been gigged but in very good condition with only minor signs of use and no major marks or scuffs. The worst is a minor scratch on the back near the battery, which only really really shows if you tilt the bass and are looking for it. Currently wearing a well worn in set of round wounds. Based in Chelmsford, and would prefer local pickup but do have a box so could send via Parcelforce at buyers cost/risk. Also I am working with a band on a small tour over the next month and will be in Southampton, Bristol, Norwich, Nottingham, Leeds, Machester and Glasgow, so potential for a handover if you can make it to the venue before the gig! Only for sale I am back to paying 4 string in my new band, and have plenty of 5's so am downsizing a bit to raise some cash. Not looking for any trades.2 points -
For sale due to an older Jazz Bass having come in and usurped it, this is a lovely player's grade 69 Jazz. Obtained in a trade on Basschat a while ago, I then had a professional nitro refinish done, including some delightful checking on the paintwork. Before I owned it it's had a replacement ebony fretboard with new binding, very professional job. I believe the pots and pickups are original, and pretty sure the bridge is too. Tuners are definitely original and are a little stiff but perfectly functional, they may benefit from some WD40 but not critical. Scratchplate isn't original either. Weighs in at 4.5kg according to my bathroom scales. Comes in a very cool but very heavy 70s/80s semi flight case, and will be very heavy to post so pickup/meet up greatly preferred. Alternatively I can provide a decent old gigbag instead. Can't upload pics here due to hitting my limit, if I can sort it out I'll add one here in a sec. https://ibb.co/WKM8BxV https://ibb.co/gzfGmTw https://ibb.co/44PSKT7 https://ibb.co/8d872QG https://ibb.co/B6Pn3Hd https://ibb.co/qCtqv32 https://ibb.co/5s6h36C https://ibb.co/t8Rcvn9 https://ibb.co/k5bqBGf https://ibb.co/fr99jGk https://ibb.co/7r5Sfjj https://ibb.co/MsYWsNc https://ibb.co/bHdvpz5 https://ibb.co/mhc9MH5 https://ibb.co/vxLR8Hb https://ibb.co/hdcfyqk https://ibb.co/8rwWfkm https://ibb.co/44RMwt4 https://ibb.co/f1c0JwZ https://ibb.co/2vR49PX https://ibb.co/h2KkRgF https://ibb.co/6D5sMcP https://ibb.co/crv8CBG https://ibb.co/JQ3zZSQ https://ibb.co/nkR7XMP https://ibb.co/tzmgST8 https://ibb.co/jfxgxzQ https://ibb.co/rF4yYB0 https://ibb.co/k0LfY7L https://ibb.co/1nd1R752 points -
I actually find it easier to play a 5-string now. All the notes are right there, 2 octaves within 5 frets, going back to 4 feels a bit like when my dad removed the stabilisers from mi bicycle. I know you won't believe me, just like I would not have believed it myself not that long ago.2 points
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I told you not to tighten the trussrod with molegrips ...2 points
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I've never bought from them online, but have bought stuff in the shop and they set up and fix all my basses. No help to the OP but they are great guys to deal with in person.2 points
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@Richard R Not sure what faking bindings are? Can you explain please. These are the two pieces joined. I've filled and sanded and am down to (upto?) to 240 with the wet and dry. The surface is dulled, the join between the two pieces looks OK, there is a thin line of filler, and other bits of filler. These are going to be spray painted so I'm not at all worried about how they look at the momen, though I have to say my ability to take photos that look bad is wonderful A primer/filler coat will get rid of most of the ridges, but my intention is to spent another hour with more wet and dry to get this as smooth as possible. The back shows where I joined the two pieces. Played about with different papers on the back before the front. Just about all of this will be covered with copper tape, so not concerned about the looks.2 points
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I’m different in that I buy my vintage basses to play and not for show, I happily play them anywhere and they’ve never let me down2 points
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I found this fella on Gear4Music's Ebay site. It had got a bit of a bash on the rear of the body and was reduced from £419 to £230. It has a Jazz style neck and a 2 band EQ - I do like Jazz necks and I really liked the 2 band EQ that I had on my old USA built Stingray SUB - so decided to pull the trigger and pay £230 for what sounded like a lot of bass guitar for the money. When I received it I was pleasantly surprised that it's 2 band EQ made it sound very like that USA SUB I used to own. I also really like the Jazz neck, which had a really nice low action straight out of the box. The fit and finish is excellent but the fret ends are a little bit noticeable (not sharp just noticeable). I'm used to, relatively, expensive and old basses where the necks are rolled and the frets are filed via a setup, or just decades of use. I already own a USA Stingray but this sounds preferable to my ears and I prefer the Ray 4's neck as well. I can see it being gigged regularly. Here's the bass and the insignificant dent.2 points
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@Thor of course you do! haha2 points
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If the TC K212 is an annoying/impractical size I'd be selling it and getting a cab or cabs that work for you. I have various cabs for different needs and my pair of Aguilar DB112 cabs (effectively a modular 2x12) will keep up with the loudest band.2 points
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As some who plays Bass VIs exclusively with one of my bands, these are my thoughts: The neck is narrow. In fact of all the Bass VIs I have played or obtained specifications for (and it's a lot of them) the Squier has the narrowest neck of them all. Mine was one one of the first batch, bought almost 8 years ago, and I believe the more recent examples have a slightly wider neck by a couple of mm. However it is still very narrow and consequently the string spacing is very tight at the nut, and the thicker bass strings don't help. Think 70s Stratocaster, but with thicker strings and you'll get an idea of how narrow the neck is. Like a lot of people my Squier Bass VI was bought on a whim and when it was very cheap, and it was largely unused for several years until the guitarist left one of the bands I play with and we decided to continue with no guitar player and me using the Bass VI instead. As a consequence of this I embarked on the mission to find something with a wider neck and therefore more playable for me. There's a multi-page thread about this which I can have a look for if you think it might be useful. The upshot of this is that the Squier was initially replaced with a Burns Barracuda, and more recently an Eastwood Hooky. Since it isn't even my back-up bass now I've been thinking of selling mine, but haven't got my act together to list it. The other main issue is that the supplied strings are bit on the light side for bass players, which means unless you play with a very light touch you'll find the E and A strings far too compliant and floppy. The good news is that there are at least two manufacturers making heavier strings that are more bassist-friendly - LaBella and Newtone. However I found that fitting the heavier strings while improving the feel of the E and A, the increased tension rendered the vibrato mechanism almost useless. Some users have also reported intonation problems after fitting a heavier low E string. On the plus side it looks and sounds great. If you can get on with the tight string spacing at the nut and the supplied light strings, then it's a great instrument. For me the compromises with the strings and the vibrato bridge plus the tight spacing meant that I've had to look elsewhere for a suitable Bass VI, but it did get me started and realised that the Bass VI concept would work for me and my band. Just not the Squier model.2 points
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Which effect were you using on the Stomp? I regularly use Poly Capo to drop a semi-tone or two and it works great, although I’ve not tried it below low E.2 points
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There is a great kiesel video about stringing headless basses on youtube showing how to get the ends tidy.2 points
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For sale, this classic compressor by Origin Effects, the fantastic Cali76 Compact Bass. It is in very good condition, only sports a few marks on the side, and works perfectly. It’s got Velcro on the back, pedalboard ready! I have the box for it, I can ship it for £8 or collection possible in Edinburgh. thanks!2 points -
Disappointing to be lumped in with that sort of nonsense - I've had my Hotmail account since 1997 (pre Microsoft days) and I assure you it is very much in legitimate use.2 points
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For sale is my Roscoe LG3000 (LG4) Custom. Outstanding bass in excellent condition and only 7Lbs/3.2Kg! I bought this bass here nearly 3 years ago as I needed a quality lightweight bass with a good flexible preamp for the band I had just joined. It certainly didn't disappoint. My time with that band has come to an end and this bass just isn't being used. The build quality and finish is right up there with the top stuff. If you're aware of Keith Roscoe basses you'll already know! These are special. Body is Spanish Cedar with Box Elder top. Neck is Maple/Purpleheart/Maple and the fingerboard is Paduk. 18v Bartolini Pre with Bass Treble and adjustable mids. Bart JJ pickups. Hipshot bridge and Ultralight USA tuners. Roscoe fitted case. Bass is located in St Helens Merseyside. I'd rather not ship this due to its value but I'm happy to meet/deliver up to 100 miles. Not really looking for trades as I do need to pay for something. The price is what I paid 3 years ago which was a great price back then for something like this. Any Q's or more pics, just ask away. Cheers.2 points -
It's absolutely sickening to think that a bass made in the 90s would be considered 'old'.2 points
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