Downunderwonder

Barefaced do cloth grilles and custom tolex jobs. Trace Elliot green 210 with Elf on top?

You should me more concerned with blowing up your hearing. Never plug more than one amplifier into a speaker. If it isn't obvious what cables are what you should check with someone before hooking it up. Mind out with the output sliders. If something isn't making any sound, turning up the output won't fix it.

If you would be bereft should it be stolen you could insure appropriately at the cost of similar enough model Fender plus sandblasting and the satin clearcoat. That would mean paying extra premiums which perhaps temper your enthusiasm for like for like insuring. Hence the dilemma?

You are onto it.

500w is only going to get you a 3dB boost if your cab can take it all without cooking or breaking. 1200w means you can plug into a big high power handler like a BF Twin and give it some berries, outdoors on a big stage. Elf sales don't hurt 1200 sales and vice versa. A 500w version would not be significantly cheaper than the 1200. Hence no 500w version.

Plug in cab volume. Plug in driver if your version supports the Beyma. If not, give it the T/S specs from the datasheet. Tell it you have a tuning of 50hz and two 4" round ports. It will tell you the length, also the port velocity and response chart and displacement chart for whatever wattage you input. It's a big enough box you might get away with a lower tuning.

I wouldn't worry about it until you are getting gigs. That gives you plenty of opportunity to see if the 200w is enough. 20W is twice as loud as 2W 200W is twice as loud as 20W 2000W blows up your cab way trying to be half as loud again. 500W is just a bump up.

Soft bags for the win. That's a lot roomier than I remember the original MX5 boot. It has some depth to it. So long as the cab foot print goes into the dropout section you are good for a much bigger cab overall than what I imagined. If a box doesn't drop straight in and stay under the lid you are screwed out of a huge amount of cabinet size. It has to go through the opening, rotate and lie down. Suitcases have quite rounded edges and corners. Googling the biggest carry on suitcase mx5 model could really stuff things up. If it is close I would make a cardboard mockup just to be sure.

Perhaps they aren't quite as incompetent as all that and have refunded the insufficient postage?

This.^ If it is shelf ported you could run it through the centre, slap new sides on and call it good. That would only work for a tall skinny 210 as opposed to one that is squat with diagonally mounted drivers. You want to maintain the cross sectional area amd length of the ports, half the area for each cabinet. Half the original cab volume each.

It serves notice to anyone thinking of doing the same. It might be a lot harder than you imagined. You need to be careful not to take away plywood in your enthusiasm. The individual plys are very slim. Strip the glue rather than sand it.

Mk1 boot is tiny. It would be a small 12" cab that would go in. A slimmer 210 might be a better bet and another in a waterproof bag on one of those boot lid racks.

You like the warm fuzzies without the fuzz. Gain at 3 o'clock shoukd be pushing into the preamp to where it warms and compresses. If you turn up the volume you get loud warm and compressed and lows get more prominent.

It depends on what you mean by handle low B string. It is the 30hz to 80hz content that is the concern. Most modern 12" bass cabs will handle it pretty well with a high pass filter to snuff out the 30hz content and let through some 60hz. The higher performing ones folks are recommending you can make that 60hz quite loud. None of them will produce audible 30hz so a HPF is still a very handy thing. A lot of players even take out a bit of the 60 to 80hz. Their cab is too good at making it and the tone gets to be wallowing in lows.

I made one out of cardboard, for free. Duct tape is extra.