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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/11/23 in all areas
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Time to share my shorties here. Gibson LP DC Tribute and 1973 Fender Musicmaster Bass12 points
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I have been having pain in my left hand third finger for a while now on & off, so I have gone back to using my 1964 Hofner 500/1 bass as my main player. I've owned this bass for the past 35 years and the neck is pencil thin & feels so nice to play in comparison to my, Hofner HCT 500/1 which has a 42mm nut width & thicker neck and feels totally different to the '64 500/1.9 points
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1981 Aria SB700 in good overall condition. It does have a few age related small dinks, I've tried to show, but nothing too horrendous. All in good working order. It has the orginal knobs, but I don't think the coil tap swich is orginal. It comes in a generic hard case and I can send by courier at the buyer's expense.7 points
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It's been an absolute pleasure opening for these guys every night 🙏😊 A dream come true. Cannot say enough good things about Mark and his crew, they're just the best!! Even got to hold Mark's original "ol' girl" on his 65th birthday. It felt like my own birthday!! 😂7 points
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6 points
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It's not too expensive. 1kg of PETG or PLA is around £20. However special filaments can be a lot more. Simple things are cheap and easy. Ceiling roses are trivial to design and print. These modules are the most complex I have ever designed as: 1. There's a lot of them that have to fit together and each way they fit is unique. 2. How they bolt together is important. I don't want any screws or nuts to show. I keep saying I don't have OCD but I do wonder at times 😊 3. Access to the countersink screws using an Allen key is difficult. You have to think how long the Allen key is and how much rotation you can do. A 22mm long bolt will take a long time to screw in with a 30 degree movement. You only really find this out when you assemble things. I may have to put access holes in as it's so tricky and I don't want to do that. 4. I have a lot of embedded nuts that need to be put in. This requires every hole to be carefully designed to hold the nut. This means I have to stop the printer at certain layers to put the nuts in. If I leave it too long, the material cools down and this was probably the reason for the head crash. 5. It could also be because I'm using hardened steel nozzles as opposed to brass. Different thermal characteristics of temperature expansion of brass hot ends with steel Nozzles mean the nozzle can come loose. First job today is to replace the steel Nozzles back to brass. Then recalibrate the head level and start again. 6. The 3d design program is basically 3d maths. You build-up 2d sketches and then extrude the designs into 3d space. Some of the designs I have to 'manufacture' in the program. So you have to design and extrude and cut in a specific order to get the part you need. If you accidentally change something before these steps, it may go dramatically wrong or it might be a subtle error that you don't notice until you print or assemble. 7. I make mistakes. I forgot to put holes in to hold the pick guard so the work was useless anyway. There's a lot to remember. It's complicated at first but you learn as you go and build up the skills. I started at the beginning of lockdown and knew nothing. I had a cheap Ender 3 Pro off Amazon and built a CNC machine as pretty much my first project. All the hard design work had been done by somebody else. All I could design were simple cubes. I just kept learning and designing new stuff that got more and more complicated. It helps that I have a maths background and can think in 3 dimensions, probably due to the pure maths I did years ago. However you don't need to have these traits (not sure if they are skills), just practise and learn and except things will go wrong. I lost 16 hours of printing yesterday. That's across two printers, I'll lose more this week getting it right without a doubt. At first it's so frustrating, now I learn what went wrong, shrug my shoulders and start the following day. Hope this gives some clarity Rob6 points
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Spotted this on Gumtree a few days ago, picked it up this eve. £30 with a straight neck - what could possibly go wrong?! I’m planning on stripping it back (or probably just sanding for a refinish as it’s probably ply-bodied). Maybe oly white with a mint guard? We’ll see…5 points
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I'm not much cop at bass. I'm just there as eye candy to be honest, something to keep the ladies entertained.5 points
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So I took a drive from Bromley up to Cambridge to a meet up and buy from Mike. Lovely chap. I am now the proud owner of my 2nd Walsh Bitsa P bass! What an amazing bass. Thanks Mike!5 points
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4 points
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You would have thought they'd have a bunch of great stuff hanging around that was never put on an album, because after all, they were all geniuses. But it appears they only have the scrapings at the bottom of the barrel. This track probably wouldn't even get on a Rutles album (or an Oasis one for that matter).4 points
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Currently at three blue basses (of which two are already on this very page), added this Belgrado Z-lectro to the collection. The colour is Avatar Blue and is originally a Peugeot car colour.4 points
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There's still room on there for a couple of PAR cans and a Zoom Q2n 4K. Just saying ...3 points
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Anybody in a band that covers All Right Now. That's been me since around 1970 folks 😎3 points
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Thanks so much mate 🙏🙂 Yes, using my trusty Yamaha TRB1005J - it really cuts through3 points
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He's stopped using that Shure wireless pedal for the last five gigs or so. He's now using a Shure rack mounted unit, which, according to his tech and sound crew sounds a million times better. You can see it here, under his Caveman preamp (which he absolutely swears by, apparently)3 points
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If anyone wishes to have a go at building one of @stevie and @Phil Starr excellent cabs designs on an entry level budget I have a couple of used ( but in great condition) Bayma SM212 drives FOC. These were used in the Mk1 & Mk2 cabs and are very fine drivers, pay the shipping and they are yours. PM me. I have enjoyed great fun following and building cabs that @stevie and @Phil Starr have freely shared to Basschaters.3 points
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£675 I’m sure most of you know about these and how good they are. An absolute powerhouse of a cab, and a one hand lift! 1200 watts, 4 ohms. Overall it’s in very good condition but has a couple of small chips on the bottom from being gigged. Collection from Alrewas DE13 or I can meet within reason for a little petrol money.2 points
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Hi everyone. I have decided to sell this beautiful modern jazz bass , hand made in Japan , Aguilar pickups , Ash body , Maple neck and Ebony fretboard. Light weight (just under 4kg) and superb playability. I have 4 other basses so I am going to let this one go in a trade , actually try me with anything like pedals , basses , amps etc. I want to try something new.2 points
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Not sure if this will work as its a Facebook photo. Someone is selling this bass, an F bass BN5 in matte black. Love it! Yup, facebook link died. Here's two new pix.2 points
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That sounds similar to what I read about the grain direction. Its not just cosmetic. I think the inserts are an easy fix. Other people seem to sell them as well, so it does appear to be a genuine solution https://graingerguitarparts.com/t/neck-ferrules--screws Thanks Rob2 points
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2 points
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Been enjoying Ibibio Sound Machine over the last year hearing them regularly on 6 Music. Didn't realise this was 4 years old. Lovely squelchy bass!2 points
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Just had a quick hour or so messing around with my EBMM Sterling and some headphones, very pleased with first impressions! Stock cab IRs will do me nicely and the SVT and B15 both sound great. SGT is a bit harsh but if you go easy with the Grit it it's definitely useable - the Sterling's a rather bright and lively instrument already so that will be a big factor here too. I imagine you could bump the grit up with a passive bass and get better results. It'll mainly be used as a (rather extravagant) practice tool for me but it'll definitely get a spin if I play live again in the future, or if I ever get the time rattle out a few covers for the 'gram. Cheers guys!2 points
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Very true. The reverse is same I'm led to believe. For the most part, I think bass players are quite self deprecating and are their own worst critics. I'm no different in this respect. Hence my complete surprise when I was ask to provide bass on an upcoming session, by a recording artist (more details to follow, if all goes well).2 points
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I was using these to get a B15 sound for my no amp bass gigs. It worked really well but I moved onto a Helix Stomp and EBS valve drive for increased tonal/effect options. All prices include postage Chase Audio Secret Preamp £125 In good condition, (small chip on the bottom edge) with original box, instructions, and business card. EP based preamp, the EQ switch adds so much If you need anymore info let me know can do PayPal or Bank Transfer I’m based in Newcastle so can meet up in the NE and I’ll knock the postage off the price2 points
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No longer required, it's a gnarly fuzz and sounds epic. Price includes UK postage Now with knob pics 😉 Bumpf The Megalith is like no other fuzz you have experienced before. It puts out a shocking amount low frequency energy with the MORE HEAVY feature taking those low frequencies to truly dangerous heights. It's timbre is that of a fuzz with some of the focus you would more expect from a "distortion". The tone control section gives you an extremely wide range of frequency shaping allowing for it be fine tuned to suit a variety styles and type of equipment. While the Megalith is capable of extremely high gain levels the signal to noise is also high (it means it's not noisy). The Megalith works equally well both on guitar (the skinny stringed kind) and bass.2 points
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I've played it a couple of times at jam sessions back in 80's but not recently. I've not even heard a covers band do that one in many years. I always found the first verse bassline very tricky 😁 Dave2 points
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"If you know how good you are, nobody else has to." Wise words from trumpeter Don Cherry.2 points
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I think it embodies the spirit of the beatles really nicely. It certainly wouldn't have been released as a single but a good album track. Technology.2 points
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2 points
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Put it in whichever position sounds better. If you can't tell the difference set it at 8 ohms, for minimum current draw from the amp.2 points
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The angle is perfect - 90° off the top of the pedal board and the rake of the board sends it a good foot out from the pedals2 points
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I really like that idea. I will offer you five pounds for ninety five percent of your company.2 points
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just 1 (maybe overly large) amp, an old sound city b120 that i got as a spares and repairs sale and fixed up. put it through a laney guitar cab hopefully the speakers dont blow...2 points
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2 points
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2 points
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Crusoe. - Art of noise aaaand relax! https://youtu.be/aUN44kw2W1E?si=E9Fc934zhTkgAlXw2 points
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2 points
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I'm having a bit of classic thrash / punk crossover this morning with Hellbastard. They make an excellent racket. Too heavy for punk, too punk for metal. They've asked us to support them in a couple weeks so I thought I should get a bit more familiar with their music and I'm really enjoying it.2 points
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Here's an example of how things can wrong. This is the bridge module that will hold a bridge (doh). It's designed for a Telecaster bridge and so it has three large holes in the recess to allow the bridge pickup screws to seat. That's all fine. However the back of the bridge (that's the blue area) doesn't go down to the very bottom of the module. It goes down 29mm and it should go down 44mm. There should be two rows of three screw holes for mounting purposes, however there is only one row. The module that connects to here has two rows and when I designed it, the bridge had two rows. Somewhere when I changed something, the back of the bridge 'lost' 15mm. It's trivial to just add 15mm back in, but I've got to go back and undo the screw holes (with embedded nuts in), and fix them OR I backtrack and workout what went wrong and fix it from some N steps ago, where N could be a very large number. The screw holes are important as this fixes everything together. I've gone over the top with screw holes as this is the first version and it's easier to remove them as it's too strong rather than go back and add them in. Thats my view anyway. These lost three screws may be wholly unimportant OR they may be critical. At this point in time. I've no idea so I err on the side of caution. 3D design is about telling a story and you have to get the steps in all the right place in the the right order. I seem to have a lost of page of the narrative and now have to work out how to recreate it. It could take me 10 mins or 2-3 hours to fix it. I alos have a day job to do which is nothing to do with this, so time is precious.2 points
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A Fender Rumble 500 combo seems to be the go to response for this type of post usually. They pop up used fairly frequently or a new one is a little bit over budget for you2 points
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Just echoing others here. Don't be afraid to take a break for a while if its all getting to you! When I got to a certain point a while ago my wife wisely said, "There's a difference between needing to take a break and having to take a break." I would recommend to protect yourself a little and try not to get to the point where you are forced to take one. Go on sound desk where no one takes note or thanks you2 points
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I do like the look; silver with tort, maple neck and pearloid inlays. They shouldn't all go well together but the end result looks quite classy. Congrats.2 points
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Personally I've had digital stuff (Line 6 HX stomp, Hotone Ampero II Stomp, various zoom iterations, Ampeg SGT DI with digital IR loader, source audio aftershock and bass OFD, TC Spectracomp etc) and they always lack a certain body and harmonic content. That being said, I may love it if I try it; I know local players who are far better than me who have this and love what it does... I currently use a Source Audio Ultrawave and C4, so am not 100% anti digital; I just think it lends itself to certain application, and this is one of those where I can't understand why they haven't stayed true or closer to the source material.2 points
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Thank you for that clarification! I can't see any external switches so if it has that capability it must be inside. The following from Uncle Google seems to suggest it can be tweaked inside the casing for multiple international voltage conventions: http://www.alembic.com/support/SVC_F1X_voltage.html2 points
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2 points
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Hi all i have a very nice fender squier jazz bass for sale, it is a lined fretless great condition and strung with rotosound jazz flats weight is 9.5lbs (4.3kg) the fret board is very smooth with little sign of wear i will ship complete in the generic soft case, with strap locks and Ernie ball strap, which is as new too any questions, just give me a shout I can also ship anywhere in the UK, this will be additional £20 Will not ship Ireland or internationally due to customs complications2 points
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Decided to move this on as I'm really not making the most of this fantastic, industry standard compressor seen in the rigs of many top players. Manufacturer gumph: Compression is a tool used on pretty much every recording you will ever hear, yet this extremely useful and versatile tool is often overlooked by guitar players as part of their rig. Other compressor pedals are often limited by oversimplified controls and heavily coloured sounds. We have created a truly transparent compressor, complete with all the controls found in the studio. The result is a tool that allows for a wide range of sounds from subtly adding sustain to getting the “quack” that country players love. We've also included a mix knob to blend in the dry signal for an even more transparent sound and a gain reduction meter so you know what the compressor is doing at all times. Features: All Analog Signal Path - no digitals in here! Extremely Transparent - Add dynamic control without altering the original tone of your instrument 3 Compression Ratios - 2:1, 4:1 and 10:1 ratios offer lots of flexibility Attack and Release Control - allows for ultimate control over the compression characteristics Mix - Blend uncompressed signal in with the compressed signal for parallel compression, New York Style! Metering - Meter either gain reduction, input, or both. True Display LEDs - Bright multi-color LEDs always let you know what the Compressor is doing. Bass - Works great on bass! True Bypass - The Empress Compressor employs true bypass, so you can be sure that it's not affecting the signal when disengaged. Small Size - The enclosure measures approximately 4.5" by 3.5" by 1.5", which is delightfully small when considering all the features packed into this unit. Beautiful Case - It has a sparkle you can't deny! In excellent, almost mint condition... having just sat on my home-use pedal board. Asking for just £150 inc postage in the UK. Payment by Paypal (you pay fees) or bank transfer. Please see my extensive positive feedback thread for assurance of a clean, honest transaction.2 points
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2 points