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So Mrs B and I are having a drink and a chill, and out the blue she says ”Can you build me a bass..? I quite fancy one to learn on” ! Is this a trap?

It'll be 8 years tomorrow. Eight. And there's still a Simon-shaped hole here that will never be filled. Luv ya mate.

Hi I know you are moving on but, as a bass builder, just to put your mind at rest: it is exceptionally unlikely that the twist problem is anything you've done. My reasons for saying this: As folks above have said - with a single truss rod neck - in my view, the truss rod does not do anything about twist. It does not cause it and it cannot cure it. I'm pretty sure the Jazzus is a single truss rod neck. The truss rod adjustment is a routine event - especially with changing weather conditions. Adrian M explains this himself in Part 1 of his YouTube set-up guidance videos (which are good, by the way). He himself in that video adjusts the truss rod under full string tension. Adjusting with no string tension is also OK. Unless a bass has been left in exceptionally poor storage conditions (eg, I make an assumption it hasn't been left in a car in full sun in recent weather or anything of similar extremes) twist is usually an issue whose causes would have been already present in the timbers or construction at the time of building. It is entirely possible that this would have been undetectable at the time of making so it is not necessarily a sign of poor quality control. As the neck moves, through playing or through weather changes, those underlying issues can sometimes start to show. On a relatively new bass, therefore, I'm surprised that there is any argument other than to replace the neck FOC (I think the neck is bolt-on?). It is usually no-one's fault - but it is, in most likelihood, a fault in the bass.

Look, I don't profess to being a Nirvana, Foo Fighters, QoTSA, The Crooked Vultures or Probot fan, but I do find Dave Grohl somewhat endearing. This has just dropped on YT. The first eight minutes is documentarist, the final 23 minutes is an instrumental track wholly recorded by Dave Grohl. It's pretty intense. It's also pretty good.

😂

Not a lot to report today, got the last three coats of nitro onto the backs and the neck. Tomorrow weather permitting I'll finish off the fronts and let them hang for a while and move on to the next project

Here's mine which I still own: It's Burns Sonic from the early 60s which I got second hand in 1981 for £60 including the original Hard Case and a Fender-branded strap thrown for good measure. It's far from original, although most of the modifications were done before I got it, and all of what I have changed - replacement bridge, machine heads potentiometers and capacitors were done to keep the bass playable as the old parts had worn out. I used this with the first two bands I played with including the demo recordings that nearly got my second band signed to CBS records! It doesn't get much use these days as I play 5-strings and Bass VIs, but I'm toying with the idea of using it as a basis for a custom Bass VI build.

In my head, the lower (bass) strings should be fretted and the higher (treble) strings should be the fretless ones ...

Swindon? Why such a roundabout place? OK I'll shut up!

If you'd like an objective road tester , i'll volunteer. I'm prepared to drive to Swindon if you can too

Neither did I. This is of course a lie to make you feel better. I did. And I neeeeeeed that tube sound for recording.

Sage advice. I will wait for at least 50 more replies before even vaguely going near a “buy it now” button

My motto is 'Procrastinate Tomorrow'.

Yes, high-level GAS is when ignition occurs, your buttocks get singed and you leap up and get the credit card out! I'm down to two, but trying to justify a Vintage 4V MN purchase. It's very affordable, it's the right colour combo (no refin needed), the hardware and electrics are of sufficiently good quality to make upgrades uneccesary, it plays very nicely, it sounds great, it looks the business and... you just can't have too many P basses! Have I sold it to you yet?

Just following on, XLR cable arrived and all connected up. Definite difference from the treble perspective. Whereas via the 1/4" jack output I rolled the treble back to the 10 o'clock position, with the XLR, the same treble response is closer to the 3 o'clock position. Much better.

I must add, and its by no means rubbing anyone's face in it; my Maruszczyk that arrived two months ago was beautifully built. There are clearly issues with some that are leaving the factory, but they're not all bad so don't be put off or disheartened.

It wouldn't all fit onto a dvd. It would have to be a streaming service

The blooper reel?

quite clearly you are wrong, why are you visiting drum and guitar forums? You can't be a real bass player, you must be one of them musicians I keep reading about

I'd have no problem with 200w and a 1x12 with no PA for that gig. You really need that much kit for a wedding band? Who are you covering? Sabbath?

wow I'm knocked out by the response - thanks @SpondonBassed, @TheGreek, @Dad3353, @bigsmokebass, @Teebs, @Misowaki, @Grangur, @BaggyMan, @HCC - there's lots here for me to try. First up I lowered both the neck and bridge pick ups under the G string and noticed some improvement straight away (hats off to @TheGreek!) - I ran out of adjustment pretty quick, so also raised height of the string a little. End result, definite improvement over most of the fretboard. I still don't think there's as much punch as from the other strings, but I'm encouraged now to tweak some more based on the feedback and see how much more improvement I can get. Will feed back. Thanks again, glad I joined. And @TheGreek - your joiner joke, oh dear 🤪

Buy that bass. That'll do it!

Arrived this morning. First impressions: very compact - it has the footprint of a COG T16 and solidly built. Tracks down low as well as well as any octaver I've come across (see response to Dood's post below). It delivers the "classic OC-2 sound" as well as if not better than the COG 16 and I think it's pretty close to the 'real thing' (sufficient for that particular itch of mine to have been scratched) - although I'll leave my fellow BC'ers with OC-2s to comment on whether they agree or not. Costs around £59 new (Gear4Music) vs £140 for a COG T16 or £80 for s/h Boss OC-2 and it's considerably smaller than the OC-2. Seems a very good value option to me and I love the small form factor; I can't see myself going back to a T16 or wanting to get an OC-2. It's analogue and has negligible latency and smooth tracking. I put it through its paces and you'll be able to hear for yourself how it sounds: 1. Clean by-pass 2. "Blend" - Clean 10, Oct1 10, Oct2 5. I really liked this. For me it's my classic octave down sound and I can very much see me using this setting for live music (I slightly prefer this to the best I was able to get from my COG T16 v2). 3. "Classic OC2" - Clean 0, Oct1 10, Oct2 0 4. "Sub" - Clean 0, Oct1 0, Oct2 10. Just like the Boss OC2 the volume is not as high on this as I'd like on just the Oct2 setting. But that's perhaps a good thing as I'd maybe find my speakers blowing if it was! Besides, maybe this is just normal physics / our hearing, in that our ears are attuned less to the very low end and consequently for the low end to match volume we 'hear' of higher frequencies requires a significant increase in power. 5. Combined low - Clean 0, Octs 1 & 2 10 ValetonOC10 - clean.WAV ValetonOC10 - blend.WAV ValetonOC10 - Oct 1.WAV ValetonOC10 - Oct 2.WAV ValetonOC10 - Oct 1 & 2.WAV

My CIJ Geddy Lee is a shadow of its former self. It now has lollipop tuners, concentric tone knobs and Aguilar AG4J-HC pickups... I’m not welcome in some places ‘round town!

Next project you say? I don't reckon I'm alone in looking forward to that!

When I work up this morning, I didn't think, "Today I'm going to buy a tube amp!". And yet, here we are. 💸

Interim outside shot - got a lot of coats to go yet tho!

Second coat on and drying... I think as this builds up it should do just the job in highlighting that grain..

Surely you also need a fretless with flats and another with rounds? That would make 4... then of course you'll need back-ups for those... so at least six. Better make it eight, just to be on the safe side... then one for noodling in the shed and another for noodling at the office. Better keep one in the car boot for emergencies... hmm...

Yep, and I'd add at least a volume control..

Valeton OC-10 arrived this morning. Liking it so far! Review posted...

Thought I'd try a panoramic of the Bass Room. This shows the 7 I'd say are my "current crop" L-R -> 64 Precision, Partscaster PJ, ACG Finn 4, 51P Partscaster with OCP Ric-o-like, Ibanez Semi, 51 Semi Hollow Partscaster, 74 Precision. I have a 62 AVRI P for sale in it's case, and the bits for the current partscaster P project..

From what I understand about CITES, I think it would be best if you and your friend complete all the necessary export/import paperwork and pay the associated fees. Without doing so there's a very real risk the bass will be confiscated and subsequently destroyed by UK customs. I'm aware of this having happened to uncertified imports of vintage instruments in the last few months. Alternatively, couldn't your friend use a non-CITES wood for the fretboard?

I've been wanting to try one of these for a while...

@Osiris you know my opinion on this! I think it is not overly compressed to my ears when its backed off, but the compression on this I think is slightly different to other units in that it is clearly linked to the low end as well, so just because the compression knob my be high doesn't mean that it is overly squashed, it means a tinker/balance between your Low and comp dial. In addition you can get over the mid scoop you know it has/I like by choosing 325 or 700Hz and calling it up. I am pushing mids more than the dUg setting to my surprise. It is a very organic sound which does sit really nicely, I think you would definitely get something you would like out of it

Surely even one hit would generate enough money to buy a whole room full of spare bows?

Yes, Kala do 5-string models in their solid body range. The scale length is 23.5 inches as against 22 inches for a typical u-bass. Aquila do a 5-string set, but the low B is from their Red series, so it looks a bit odd on a BEAD 4-string, but it works for me. David

The Fender strings didn’t come (a “stock error” amazingly...) Luckily a mate was on hand and got me some d’addario 40-100 from Dawsons where I worked years ago. light night and day compared to the Rotos, which are pissing me off; they feel stiff, rough and just don’t suit me at all. Anyhow, Pickguards are in the post. Can’t wait. Have also got a chrome neck pickup cover on the way. Set the action today and it’s great, missed that Miller-esque tone...it actually sounds more like a MM Jazz than I remember these doing. Will be keeping this one. For now 😏

What I like about my local music shop is the owner's tales of impossible customers. Latest one was a guy who wanted an ocarina. When told he didn't stick them the punter got quite shirty, and said something along the lines of "not much of a music shop then". Owner said he'd been asked for one once before - about 30 years ago. The guy in all seriousness said "well you should have learnt your lesson then". Hmm, New, old stock ocarina anyone?!

My home made radiusing rig isn't brilliant, but it does the job. I've clearly got something horribly wrong with my geometry because I have to offset the blank by 10mm off centre to get it to rout evenly on both sides of the radius Still - with that tweak it works well enough to be able to just finish it off with 15mins of a radius block after 20 mins or so routing down to final size. Based on that it used to take me a couple of days to radius a fretboard - and the radius was often highly suspect even after that - it's still progress and was well worth the time to draw it out and make it Then onto the G&W mitre box. Theoretically the scale should be 25 3/8" but I have a 25 1/2" template already - should be close enough as the guitar is going to be for my own use. Folks may have seen one of my previous threads where I scrapped a fretboard using this rig the very first time (please note @LukeFRC ) but, now that I've found a decent method of setting it up and securing everything from moving, it works well. So, I have a radiused and slotted fretboard: Next job is the neck, using the maple/walnut/maple offcut I found. But first, I must amend the title of the thread to avoid being lynched when everyone realises this isn't a bass and think I've been hoping no one would notice!

That's the conditioned response...

The TBP (£300) are cheap Chinese made basses, nothing alike to the Tokai Hardpunchers of the day. Perhaps more so like the Westfield quality beginner basses with the Tokai name slapped on, double the price. Ive seen some Squier basses with better specs sell for less. For the price range you're looking to spend, I'd consider looking at some of the Bass Collection(Bass Centre) basses for sale on here or buy new. They're supposed be be highly regarded instruments for sub £500 basses. I'm sure someone will vouch for this. Some of the MIM basses, they're ok but overpriced for what opinion I hold on Fenders and prices. IF you're after a Japanese Tokai, I'd say hold out and wait for one to come up you like and keep adding to your funds. Fantastic basses and worth spending a little more on something quality.

I just bought a J bass through here last night and so far it's the only J I've ever had that has delivered tonally. Always found them to be a little too thin (generally a P Bass man) but this one does everything I'd want it to do! (Fast forward to 3 months time... )

It is actually from Ashdown direct. B stock. So as they were posting i thought it would be rude not to have the bottom bit🤣😂

I got 'hooked' on the beauty and richness of the music I was listening to (Surrealistic Pillow, Anthem Of The Sun, Piper At The Gates Of Dawn, Da Capo, Fairport Convention ...), and it was just the right moment to catch the rising crest of the hippy movement. It's remained with me ever since, and is very unlikely to ebb, now. No longer 'fashionable', but then again, I never was, so...

I have 4, but work on the principal that since they are all short scale it only counts as 2. Working on T-bay's mathematical formula of the number of bases you should have is n + 1 where n=the number you currently have there is plenty of scope left. PS: I also apply the same calculation to push bikes.