Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Misowaki

  • Birthday June 25

Personal Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

2,057 profile views

Misowaki's Achievements


Enthusiast (6/14)

  • Great Content Rare

Recent Badges


Total Watts

  1. If of interest, this is the video in which the difference was discernible even through tinny laptop speakers (skip to about 1.15). Either way, the bridge is on its way to a new home now and to paraphrase NancyJohnson, all that matters is the hook. Turning a knob or two is easy enough and I'm blessed to even have a '74 P and a modern counterpart so yeah, no fuss, no muss.
  2. 100% with you. Baffling. But you know, horses for courses. I know I've got plenty of sustain when I accidentally leave my bass near the amp I've forgotten to turn off only to move about the house and wonder where that awful noise is coming from.
  3. Just as well I have no interest in added sustain 😁 It's always been an odd upside to me but maybe some folk just love holding single notes for 4 bars, I dunno. I didn't have my eye on it, I took it off another bass but I've sold the bridge now anyway as the general consensus is negligible difference. Thanks to those who have shared their experience, glad I didn't bother messing with it and that's another £70 towards my new Mustang!
  4. Which is modelled on a 70s P, right? I know Juan Alderete also has similar but he's got that epoxy fretless neck so he's perhaps going for something different than just a deeper 'fundamental'.
  5. Yeah but I don't wanna mess up the silk windings of my TIs pulling them in and out of bridges if it's ultimately pointless 😁
  6. Yeah but if there's someone that has done it they can tell me if it unlocked anything in theirs. Otherwise, what's the point in mods? I've heard it was a popular mod back then so you'd think there was a good reason. I'm hoping someone here can confirm or deny.
  7. *QUICK EDIT* - I'm talking about a difference in the fundamentals, deeper or rounder sounding. Looking for experience from people who have done this and that can report on their findings. *additional edit* - I've sold the bridge now anyway I know what will come is people telling me to just do it and see for myself but cba rn 😁 Anyone here replaced a stock bridge on a 70s P for a Kickass type bridge and noticed any resounding difference? Is it worth it? Like actually? I have a Kickass I took off a bitsa Jazz that I'm selling but wondered if it's worth putting on the P instead. I saw a vid where a dude swapped out a cheap bridge for a Kickass and the difference was astounding but I've not really wanted for anything from my '74. And this was a cheap POS BBOT bridge on an equally poopy basic bass but the Kickass did make it sound so much better, usable even. As far as I know, the old p saddles are chrome over brass anyway so it might make no difference. I have no interest in 'added sustain', it's purely a 'will it make the bass sound that much sweeter like the cheap one' situaton. I appreciate your experience, folks.
  8. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 1 post to view.
  9. *ONO* I got this just before lockdown and despite having had more time to learn upright, it's mostly been sat there and I need the money more than a bass I can't really play all that well 😄 Sorry for crappy photos, who'd have thought it would be so hard to photograph what is essentially a tall, black stick. Previous owner had some work done to the nut and to the electronics, I believe. Works as it should, sounds better than I thought! Just not getting the use it deserves from me. Some minor dings on body and lacquer crack on head stock but perfect working order. I've also got some used TI strings I bought here that don't fit and are in a poor state (except for the A string, I believe) but if you have other uprights they may be useful to you. Strictly collection only, folks. Although I could deliver or meet locally if need be. Any questions, ask away. Visits/try outs welcome. Andrew
  10. Uh... I don't actually know... there's no fan that I know of or can see/have ever heard so I imagine passive? But tbh I'm not entirely sure on what you mean by 'passive' in this sense =D I'm fairly sure there's no fan, I know the valve cage gets hot and the bulky bits on the side are transformers/powery fellows so I imagine that's part of the reason they're external (aside from the obvious vintage aesthetic).
  11. Just to back you up, I have a '74 that looks identical to this re markings and non-corresponding numbers. Torres neck too.
  12. *please note* this is not the same as the Deluxe, this is one of the first Elites that took over from the Deluxe in 2015/2016. Times as they are, I need to shift this guy. He's served me well over the years as my main bass through festivals and live sessions but is still in great condition. Not really after trades but before you make offers, I'll only consider trades with a minimum of £500 my way. Preferably Japanese (lawsuit Ibanez or similar and MIJ Fenders) or USA Fenders. Passive only. Anything else, I'm probably not interested. I'm selling out of need and not want. If you're not familiar with them, this is the model with the Musicman style truss wheel. It has an active/passive switch and 3 band EQ. The neck is compound, graduating from a C shape to a D at the 12th fret. Here's a review from Premier Guitar: https://www.premierguitar.com/articles/24081-fender-american-elite-precision-bass-review I gutted him once because I don't like active circuitry, the home made tort plate is left over from that and will still fit the original bits if you make an extra hole and maybe do a bit of light filing. I'm the 2nd owner. I didn't get a tool for the truss wheel and haven't been able to find one specific to the Elite but I've managed to make adjustments with a regular allen key and some caution. There are a couple of little marks on the wheel from adjustments (pic 4). The scratchplate is a little scratched up so you know it's done its job but only noticeable under scrutiny. In terms of dings, there are a couple of minors pictured towards the end. Otherwise, it's been loved and cared for. Currently strung with some old GHS Pressurewound but can find some rounds to put on if you prefer. Case had some stickers, some marks left but easy enough to remove if you care to. Otherwise, perfect working order with 2 keys. Will ship if buyer arranges but meet up obviously preferred. I am based in Walton On Thames, 10 minutes west of Kingston. Features: Double cutaway 4-string electric bass PJ pickup configuration; split-coil Precision Bass middle pickup, single-coil all-new fourth-generation Noiseless Jazz Bass® bridge pickup Onboard active 18-volt preamp for more headroom with less noise Compound profile neck; redesigned contoured neck heel 9.5”-14” compound radius fingerboard HiMass Vintage bridge; new genuine bone nut Includes redesigned ABS Elite Molded Case with TSA locks Specifications BODY Body Material: Alder Body Finish: Gloss Polyurethane Body Shape: Precision Bass NECK Neck Material: Maple Neck Finish: Satin Urethane with Gloss Urethane Headstock Face Neck Shape: Compound Back Shape, Modern "C" to "D" Scale Length: 34" (864 mm) Fingerboard Material: Rosewood Fingerboard Radius: 9.5"-14" Compound Radius (241 mm-355.6 mm) Number of Frets: 21 Fret Size: Medium Jumbo Nut Material: Bone Nut Width: 1.625" (41.3 mm) Position Inlays: White Pearloid Dot Truss Rod: Dual-Action Truss Rod Nut: Heel-Mounted Spoke Wheel Adjustment ELECTRONICS Bridge Pickup: New 4th Generation Noiseless Middle Pickup: Elite Precision Bass Controls: Master Volume, Pan Pot (Pickup Selector), Treble Boost/Cut, Midrange Boost/Cut, Bass Boost/Cut, Active/Passive Mini Toggle Switching: 2-Way Mini Toggle Switch for Active/Passive Mode. In Passive Mode, Only The Volume, Pan and Passive Tone Controls Function. In Active Mode, All Controls Function. Configuration: PJ Special Electronics: 18V Preamp with Active 3-Band EQ HARDWARE Bridge 4-Saddle HiMass Vintage (String-Through-Body or Topload) Hardware Finish Nickel/Chrome Tuning Machines: Fender "F" Light-Weight Vintage-Paddle Keys with Tapered Shafts Pickguard: 3-Ply Black/White/Black Control Knobs: Knurled Flat-Top Neck Plate: 5-Bolt Asymmetrical These last 2 pics are from when I had replaced the active guts with DiMarzios and I was too lazy to tale new pictures, in case you're wondering 'what's up with those pups?'
  • Create New...