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I was at first - my brother had scoliosis as a child leading to a big op when he was 12/13. Then I realised that the bumps in the road have led him to be a successful and happily married man. challenges build character - so Iris will have lots of it 😏 thanks for the kind words, she’s a clever little thing and I hope she continues to surprise us.

I'll be coming to the bash with my wife and kids as I did last year. My wife drops me off with the kit then takes the kids to the coast. We've changed car since last year (had a Zafira then, which you can fits loads into) so I've just tried to see what I can get in the boot of the new car. Bit disappointing as I can't get everything I wanted to bring in it. But then I had an idea. It's only about 90 mins from home so this should work for that short time as I can fit more kit on the back seats. Problem solved. See you Sunday!

It depends how the P and J pups are wired. If it has a single Vol and Tone and a 3-way pickup selector switch (P, P+J. J) then, when in the P position it will be exactly the same as a P bass. On the other hand, if the pickups are wired Vol/Vol/Tone (or Vol/Blend/Tone) then the resistance of the additional pot changes the pickup loading and the solo'd P will sound slightly darker. It's not hugely noticeable, but there is a subtle tonal difference. If you want to retain the original tonal range of the P pickup then wire it with a selector switch.

For a long time I've wanted to record a few songs with around 5-6 instruments purely for my own amusement. I have a Mac and said instruments but where do I start? I've never done this before and I'm aware that I need an interface to get the music from the instruments to the mac but what to use? It needs to be simple and effective, I know Focusrite make lots of stuff but I have no idea what to buy, or software? I have garageband somewhere and I tried that. I laid down one track and for the life of me couldn't work out how to switch the damn thing to track two. Any help to get me started would be much appreciated. tom.

And here’s the reason. Iris Julia, 8lb 6oz. very beautiful!

When this happens, don't sand it. Instead use the back of the sand paper to dust over the paint finish. This will remove all the gritty "nibbs", and doesn't remove as much paint.

When we were lads( on the penny farthing) we had sound effects too...piece of cardboard and a clothes pegs to attach it to the frame so it touched the spokes...

The only downside for me would be that I`d continually be trying different permutations of pickups for the ideal sound, whereas with a straight P-bass it`s everything on full all the time, less to think about. Additionally if your sound is a PJ and you have to use a different bass for whatever reason, well it`s much more likely that a regular P-bass will be at hand, maybe a Jazz, so replicating the sound of a PJ could prove difficult, easier to obtain a regular P-bass sound.

That's the dinosaurs for you.

If nothing else a PJ gives you more places to rest your thumb when playing, so giving you more tonal options.

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Just thought I'd contribute to the thread with one of my fave lefties, a late 90's USA P-bass.

After seeing Ped's Wingbass at a bass bash last year which I really liked, Bastav's Wingnut and Jebroad's 20" scale bass I'm thinking of building something very short scale too. I work away a lot for work and it would be nice to have something to play in the evening when I'm stopping at hotels but it would need to take up only a little space in the car boot. I've got one of the cheapy headless bridges in my box of stuff and a spare MM style pickup so I've made the following scribble. The bass would be 23" scale so that should be good for BEAD tuning or EADG using the bottom 4 strings of a 5 string set. No idea about woods or finish yet, this is just an idea at the moment.

It’s a great pedal. In fact I’ve just spent the last two hours playing mine. I’m sure you’ll love it. The gated fuzz in the Nøjs side is brilliant. (The only thing I’d like to see improved is the addition of separate dry knobs for each side of the pedal; there’s just one and it mixes the dry into both sides of the pedal. It means you can’t switch between a sound with dry and a sound without dry using the foot switches.) The Octabvre Mini is also great but a different kind of vibe (more mids) and is well worth getting too.

Not strictly NAD but it’s the first time I’ve played it since I bought it off Dan Bowskill on here (top dude). I absolutely love this amp and it’s the same width as my Zilla 610.

FWIW, there's a long running thread on TB with way more information on the US exporter's experience than most people here will probably want to know about: https://www.talkbass.com/threads/cites-what-every-bass-player-should-know.1072977/ I went through the whole drill last year when sending my '77 Travis Bean off to the Netherlands. The whole process took about three months, cost a few hundred dollars on my end (and some more on his as an importer), and was frankly a huge PITA. There are only a handful of inspection stations in all of the US and in my case it took about ten hours of driving and waiting to complete that phase. For many others it would be much worse, requiring at least an overnight stay or a roundtrip flight. My buyer put substantial money up front, had the patience of a saint, and cheerfully threw in a few hundred extra bucks to compensate me for the hassle. But all in all, he could've simply flown out here, picked up and hand carried the bass home, had a nice vacation, and ended up ahead of the game.

Filler primer is worth a go, it hides a multitude of sins as my efforts on cars have proved over the Years!

Time to call in the cavalry! @bartelby Hey buddy would you mind setting up a patch on your B3 with 3 PEQ effects, two centred at the lowest 20Hz setting and one a notch higher at 25 Hz? All three with Q=4 and maximum cut "-20" and posting what that looks like compared to clean by-pass please?

I've been watching that bass too - beautiful colour! Hope you enjoy it!

Ah The folly of youth and basing opinions purely on that of others. The path of enlightenment awaits you as we learn to formulate our own ideas and goals regardless of others

Car paint dries/hardens a lot quicker than Nitro does, nitro is ready to wet sand after about 3-4 weeks I always use car paints and normally I wet sand after about 48hrs.......

Tony Levin Double espresso.

Isn't that odd - I tried some DRs years go and didn't care for them because I found them too 'taut' compared to D'Addarios! It may be something to do with the specific string type - I use the EXL170s and find them a good balance between tight and flexible, for my taste at least. I took delivery of a new bass yesterday and the stock steels that were on it were very bendy and a bit floppy by comparison, even though the E and A were slightly heavier than the D'Addario nickels I normally use. I put on some EXLs and it improved things no end. Horses for courses, I suppose.

I don't really know anything about Macs but there's a free version of Ableton live lite that apparently works if you've got the right OS https://www.ableton.com/en/products/live-lite/ As to interfaces, again I'm not sure what works with Macs but I'm currently using a cheap Behringer interface, the Guitar Link UC6102 which is as basic as it gets, it's really just for guitars, if you want to mic up other instruments or record vocals I'm not sure it's up to the job. It's also no longer supported by the manufacturer so doesn't receive software updates although that hasn't caused me any problems so far I'm looking to upgrade to a focusrite 2i2 or 2i4 in the next couple of weeks which looks like a significant step up.

I have a P Lyte and as I never use jazz bridge pickups mine sits redundant, I only bought it because it was a P and it's very light. (no pun intended)

It’s close but not close enough. The cab has Hiwatt style grill. I’ve already spoke to Zilla about redoing the cab grill to match and I’ll probably get chrome corners.

Ha, that’s actually quite amazing. ive nicknamed the bass the cyclops because of the single pickup but I’ll have to call it sirdidymus now.

One thing to consider is the neck. A lot of the factory-made PJs seem to have neck profile in a jazz style rather than a precision style. For example, the Fender Precision Delux models. That might not be what you want.

As with anything, its supply and demand. If you need to sell and no one's looking to buy, I've seen good basses knocked down to crazy (IMO) prices, including on here. Vintage laminate basses like Kays and Kings hold or gain value because of their perceived qualities and because there will never be any more of them. Carved basses may hold value a little better but typically you're looking at the higher end, older ones. A new carved Gedo, Archer it whatever isn't going to be much different to a 3, 6 or perhaps even 10 year old one so it may lose value, dependent on how long you can wait for a sale. There's no hard and fast rule I'm afraid. I say just buy it and have hundreds of pounds of fun with it so you don't have to care if you make every penny back 😀 consider it an investment in the joy of playing, looking badass on stage and wasting money trying to find the right strings. You'll be in good company.

Yeh, well, there is a cultural difference for you. A lot of the British are embarassingly over drunk a lot of the time. Acting like a complete t**t in public in an evening appears to have no social stigma. Having said that, I observed a fair amount of drunken behaviour when I lived in the states, but it was a lot more area specific.

Oh no, he’s gorn an dun it... ...you’ll regret it. Maybe not today, maybe not tomorrow but soon! LOL! GLWTS, lovely bass!

I have a stupid amount of stuff, 8 basses (down from 10), probably 10 guitars (I genuinely don’t know exactly even where they are), 4 keyboards, 3 sound module, gr55, few sound boards etc. Sometimes I feel guilt about it but all of my later stuff is paid with gig money and all the other stuff paid for with giving up smoking money. And then I think, well, why should I feel guilty as it isn’t hurting anyone.

I was never a big fan of the BDDI, but the VTDI has totally revolutionised my playing and I've not bothered taking an amp to shows since I bought one. I just run straight into whatever is onstage - it's only backfired once when I was given an old Carlsboro which appeared incapable of reproducing bass frequencies, but I just cranked the mids and pretended I was Lemmy for the evening... I've had so much fun with it that I'm starting to get curious about picking up a second BDDI/VTDI and running them in parallel to front of house for dual gnarly/vintage sounds.

I had a bass built by Bernie Goodfellow with the primary spec that it had to be light - it certainly meets that spec and balances perfectly. Sound wise, it's certainly in the more versatile camp when it comes to bass tones. If you want something a bit different then you could do a far worse!

You want a change and a lighter bass? Get another Wal, a lighter one this time.

I don't think it is that, John (although you never know). I'm going by the fact that my wife's pottery glazes do the same thing - again when the bond with itself is stronger than the bond with the fired clay. I think she calls it creep - although she may have just been referring to me generally....

Played Pilton WMC and Village Hall last night with the Bad Cowboys. Told to arrive at 7.00 as PA would be provided. Massive PA, helpful crew and the wall was posted with all the enclosed. Pilton is the nearest Village to Glastonbury, for those who are unaware. Gig went well and at the end this nice chap with white hair was very keen to be photographed with us. He's in the middle, I'm on the left: apparently he's some local celebrity, I'm not......

I followed up @RichardH 's supplier leads from the previous build thread (Thonk is SUCH a great name for a company) and some of @Norris and other kind folks' suggestions and have made myself some knobs! Got the inserts from Thonk and a cheapo diamond hole/plug cutter from ebay: Then, after a few trial runs to work out the best sequence, started with a 9.5mm hole in some scrap oak: Then used a Forstner for the nut relief in the bottom: Then the plug cutter: And added the screw access hole before filing out the bore to a very slight interference push fit for the insert: Then took some macassar offcut and drilled a 6mm hole: Then plug-cut that: Then glued the two together, added a MoP dot, and rounded the sharp edges: Well pleased! Thanks for the tips and encouragement, folks. They are a fraction of the weight of the normal powder-coated brass ones I usually fit. When I get a moment, I'll make some more and replace the three on my own build

Not trying to be a smart arse but Magellan is not a random girlie name, it's a word that refers to discovery, exploration and circumnavigation (after the portugese explorer Ferdinand Magellan). I'm guessing it's a reference to the technology behind the new genz stuff, or a reference to breaking new ground etc.