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I was at first - my brother had scoliosis as a child leading to a big op when he was 12/13. Then I realised that the bumps in the road have led him to be a successful and happily married man. challenges build character - so Iris will have lots of it 😏 thanks for the kind words, she’s a clever little thing and I hope she continues to surprise us.

I'll be coming to the bash with my wife and kids as I did last year. My wife drops me off with the kit then takes the kids to the coast. We've changed car since last year (had a Zafira then, which you can fits loads into) so I've just tried to see what I can get in the boot of the new car. Bit disappointing as I can't get everything I wanted to bring in it. But then I had an idea. It's only about 90 mins from home so this should work for that short time as I can fit more kit on the back seats. Problem solved. See you Sunday!

It depends how the P and J pups are wired. If it has a single Vol and Tone and a 3-way pickup selector switch (P, P+J. J) then, when in the P position it will be exactly the same as a P bass. On the other hand, if the pickups are wired Vol/Vol/Tone (or Vol/Blend/Tone) then the resistance of the additional pot changes the pickup loading and the solo'd P will sound slightly darker. It's not hugely noticeable, but there is a subtle tonal difference. If you want to retain the original tonal range of the P pickup then wire it with a selector switch.

For a long time I've wanted to record a few songs with around 5-6 instruments purely for my own amusement. I have a Mac and said instruments but where do I start? I've never done this before and I'm aware that I need an interface to get the music from the instruments to the mac but what to use? It needs to be simple and effective, I know Focusrite make lots of stuff but I have no idea what to buy, or software? I have garageband somewhere and I tried that. I laid down one track and for the life of me couldn't work out how to switch the damn thing to track two. Any help to get me started would be much appreciated. tom.

And here’s the reason. Iris Julia, 8lb 6oz. very beautiful!

When this happens, don't sand it. Instead use the back of the sand paper to dust over the paint finish. This will remove all the gritty "nibbs", and doesn't remove as much paint.

When we were lads( on the penny farthing) we had sound effects too...piece of cardboard and a clothes pegs to attach it to the frame so it touched the spokes...

The only downside for me would be that I`d continually be trying different permutations of pickups for the ideal sound, whereas with a straight P-bass it`s everything on full all the time, less to think about. Additionally if your sound is a PJ and you have to use a different bass for whatever reason, well it`s much more likely that a regular P-bass will be at hand, maybe a Jazz, so replicating the sound of a PJ could prove difficult, easier to obtain a regular P-bass sound.

That's the dinosaurs for you.

If nothing else a PJ gives you more places to rest your thumb when playing, so giving you more tonal options.

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Just thought I'd contribute to the thread with one of my fave lefties, a late 90's USA P-bass.

She was diagnosed at 20 weeks with Spina Biffida, hydrocephalus, Cairi Malformation, kyphoscholiosis...and other associated conditions. For reasons unknown, during early gestation her spine did not form correctly and it’s potentially going to cause her problems. Anyhow, we were told it’d be unlikely she’d have use of her legs. She’s kicking and twiddling her toes. Tomorrow they are closing the open lesion on her spine. And potentially fitting a shunt to remove fluid from around the brain into her abdomen which she will excrete naturally instead of building up on her brain.

It’s a great pedal. In fact I’ve just spent the last two hours playing mine. I’m sure you’ll love it. The gated fuzz in the Nøjs side is brilliant. (The only thing I’d like to see improved is the addition of separate dry knobs for each side of the pedal; there’s just one and it mixes the dry into both sides of the pedal. It means you can’t switch between a sound with dry and a sound without dry using the foot switches.) The Octabvre Mini is also great but a different kind of vibe (more mids) and is well worth getting too.

Forgot got say that I use u pol filler primer, it is a dull yellow colour. It takes a while longer than normal primer to go off. Somewhere around an hour or so. I always spray a bit of scrap at the same time so I test when it’s gone off as I have lost count of the times I have thought it’s gone off only to find it’s just a skin which I put a finger print in.

Filler primer is worth a go, it hides a multitude of sins as my efforts on cars have proved over the Years!

Time to call in the cavalry! @bartelby Hey buddy would you mind setting up a patch on your B3 with 3 PEQ effects, two centred at the lowest 20Hz setting and one a notch higher at 25 Hz? All three with Q=4 and maximum cut "-20" and posting what that looks like compared to clean by-pass please?

Cheers, thanks for the support

That's a shame - I'm in Gloucestershire. If you haven't completed it by the beginning of May, I could take the fret press to the Midlands bass.

Ah The folly of youth and basing opinions purely on that of others. The path of enlightenment awaits you as we learn to formulate our own ideas and goals regardless of others

Ostensibly being one of the cloth eared in question, I'm intrigued to know how arrived at this assumption. Do tell.

Tonally, they're definitely in the same ball-park. The Warwicks are bright and clear with plenty of zing; much like Rotos that does fade over a few days. I think the Rotosounds have more "authority" in their tone - I also use them on my Thunderbird, incidentally, and with the pickup blend just right I do find I can get a nice piano-like tone without sacrificing the bottom end. The Warwicks definitely manage a close second, and I'd probably go back to them if I couldn't get Rotos for whatever reason. The Warwicks obviously have the advantage of being cheaper; curiously enough I also found them quite a bit softer under the fingers, and I tend to favour the nickel-plated Rotos when I can get them.

I used to attend a lot of Killing Joke gigs back yonder and their intro music included two snippets of songs that I loved but I could never ascertain who they were by. Turns out it was Faith Healer and Booids by SAHB. What a front man, what a guitarist, crazy and so sinister.

Car paint dries/hardens a lot quicker than Nitro does, nitro is ready to wet sand after about 3-4 weeks I always use car paints and normally I wet sand after about 48hrs.......

I've got a few PJ basses, and have owned a fair number over the years. They have their pluses and minuses, but in my opinion the pluses outweigh the minuses! The biggest issue with this configuration, particularly on a conventional Fender - style bass, is the inherent seeming difference in volume between P and J pickups. There are various reasons for this discrepancy, and some pickup sets address this problem more effectively than others. There is also an issue with phase cancellation when both pickups are on together. These are part of the characteristics of a PJ, and not necessarily a bad thing, but it is definitely a thing. A notable exception to the rule would be my Yamaha BB PJs. I've no idea how, but these basses suffer none of these problems associated with more traditional PJs. For me, adding a J pickup makes a traditional P much more versatile and articulate. It just makes it a much more useful bass, and I have never noticed any significant detriment to the sound of the P pickup.

This is proper!

Only donside for me in a PJ setup is that the bridge pickup isn't a H. A PH setup (with reversed P, if i'm chosing) is the best of everything especially with a coil tap on the H for added flexibility if a traditional Jazz sound is required. Oh, and 5 strings and if it needs to be passive a stacked vol/tone for each pickup and light and the neck has to be vintage tinted and... Thats derailing the thread...

thats great! it looks superb. your first sandy?

Quick! To the Batpond, Robin!

And:

Isn't that odd - I tried some DRs years go and didn't care for them because I found them too 'taut' compared to D'Addarios! It may be something to do with the specific string type - I use the EXL170s and find them a good balance between tight and flexible, for my taste at least. I took delivery of a new bass yesterday and the stock steels that were on it were very bendy and a bit floppy by comparison, even though the E and A were slightly heavier than the D'Addario nickels I normally use. I put on some EXLs and it improved things no end. Horses for courses, I suppose.

Ha, that’s actually quite amazing. ive nicknamed the bass the cyclops because of the single pickup but I’ll have to call it sirdidymus now.

Cooling fans are my pet hate in modern amps. I've sold on some great combos and amps because they had acoustically obtrusive cooling fans when used in a quiet room/recording session. In a performance situation it wasn't such an issue. A lot of bass players I suspect don't have the luxury of having a home jam setup thats separate from their gig setup. Cooling fans are a modern day compromise imho for the large alloy heatsinks of old that allowed solid state amps to run quietly. I haven't heard what a Mesa Subway D800 fan sounds like but have had experience of TC Electronic, Eden, and Ashdown cooling fan noises and have been driven to distraction by them. It's possible to retrofit a silent cooling fan but you might invalidate your amp warranty and perhaps not cool it properly. My solution was to source an old skool combo for home rehearsal/recording (a Peavey TKO80 1x12combo in my situation that is silent!) and leave the fan cooled beast strictly for live performance.

I never saw the attraction either. I had a friend in the early 70s (when we were 10/11) who must have had one of the original versions. He looked like a complete idiot wobbling about on his brand new Raleigh Chopper and was the only person in our year who failed his Cycling Proficiency Test due to him not being in adequate control of his bicycle. Also the big fat tyres were rather prone to getting punctures compared with other designs and as a result we tended not to ask him out when we zoomed around the neighbourhood on our bikes as inevitably he'd slow us down when his tyres became defaulted and we'd end up having to help him carry his heavy and ridiculous excuse for a bicycle back home.

She shouldn't have to, but 2018 is not exactly a time of tolerance and human compassion. We're in an era of intellectual regression. Actually it's not quite as simple as that. We're in an era abundant with intellectual progress and tolerance, which is being stifled by an increasingly dumb, aggressive and intolerant ageing population, who wish it was still 1842. And thanks to the miracle of modern medicine, they're out there shuffling about in huge numbers, and they will live until they're 136 years old. So it's going to take a long time for attitudes to change significantly.

I had a bass built by Bernie Goodfellow with the primary spec that it had to be light - it certainly meets that spec and balances perfectly. Sound wise, it's certainly in the more versatile camp when it comes to bass tones. If you want something a bit different then you could do a far worse!

I've had been using a VT DI for the occasional song where I need a more scooped tone for slap work. However, last Friday (and with a slightly different EQ) I had it switched throughout the gig and it sounded monster. I even found myself using a pick a bit more often which really had it snarling (even the guitar player commented). Could be the way of the future. For the record my chain is: wireless; octaver; chorus; VT DI; tuner (with mute); straight into the front of my Phil Jones Flightcase.

After a couple of slurry-and-wipe sessions with Tru-oil, I've then given it three wipes with slightly thinned Ronseal Hardglaze applied, as usual, with a budget soft micro-fibre cloth. Although the new formula Ronseal is a bit quirky and doesn't self level quite enough, this is probably the quickest I've got to an acceptable finish at 3 days total from sanded wood: After a week of letting it harden fully, I will polish it up properly with Meguiars Ultimate compound but this is perfectly tough enough for normal handling already so hopefully the build will be finished over the next 2-3 days