Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Total Watts

15 Good

About AndyBass

  • Birthday 20/06/1979

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Sorry to resurrect an oldie but in case anyone searches and finds this thread in future, Ampeg have said the pf heads are 1megaohm input impedance.
  2. The limitation is because I use a wireless to allow for chucking it about and such. Should’ve said that at the start! So I either need two wirelesses, no clicky and therefore a single signal, or a means of blending both to a mono signal before it hits the wireless (hence the K&K) I guess I could get a second wireless, but I’d still need a preamp so the costs would start racking up.
  3. Hi. I need to replace my dying K&K rockabilly preamp. Shadow isn’t an option as I also want the preamp as a blender between my mag and clicky on one bass, as well as the normal piezo/clicky setup on another. But for a brand that feels like it’s been superseded by Shadow quite significantly, the prospect of paying top dollar for the K&K feels a bit daft. Does anyone know of other companies make something of a similar spec, ie stereo input, eq/blender, mono output, small enough to clip onto a tailpiece. Big ask I guess but feels like a critical piece of kit with very few options. Alternatively if anyone has a K&K to move on please shout - if I can’t get better then I can at least try and get cheaper then buying one new! Thanks folks
  4. hi - yeah sorry the two scenarios (low input to DI, low volume through amp) were exclusive of one another, but I assume caused by the same issue. I use the 3500 which has its own gain control. I’ll mess about with the gain on the K&K and see what I can do with that. Cheers
  5. Coming back to the fdeck point, one thing I’ve often struggled with in the past is a really low output from the piezo. Based on the above I’d have thought this was due to the massively high output impedance of the pickup, but the K&K should be translating that into 3kOhm or something. Which I would have thought should eradicate that issue, yet soundmen over the years have bemoaned the lack of a strong signal into the DI, or I’ve had to crank the amp massively and wrestle feedback to get close to loud enough. Given I need the K&K in the chain to blend the signals, is there anything I could add after the wireless that would help boost the signal or something? Not a pressing question as I got sick of it and got mag pickups anyway, but am tempted back to piezos at the minute. off topic obviously, but while I’ve got you here...
  6. Thanks for the input and info everyone. I’ve decided to play it safe and stick with exactly what I had before since one just appeared in the classifieds. Maybe I’ll explore Ampeg another day!
  7. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 1 post to view.
  8. Hmm...a bit of reading old threads and they do sound interesting. Anything that gets a hotter signal from a piezo and helps counter feedback is a good thing by me. I guess I’ve always been married to my K&K pre as a means of merging signals before the wireless. Would you then run the signal into the fdeck before the amp, I wonder, or ditch the K&K meaning I’d need to rethink my bridge/clicky setup... And no, sadly I’m way up in sunny Sheffield
  9. Yeah, the language on the left is the world I operate in Im afraid!
  10. Not really after growliness on double bass, just the old “my bass but louder” chestnut. Weight’s not really a factor, everywhere I’d go would be in a van and once there it’s only a few minutes of heft to the stage. Saves a trip to the gym 😀 I use my own gear mainly, but that’s a good idea to investigate for occasions when it isn’t practical. I think I need to educate myself a bit more with this stuff because all this talk of fdecks and preamp pedals is alien to me. I’m still in the world of instrument - amp - noise. In the meantime I think I’ll just get another Hartke and keep it simple!
  11. I vary, Fonokraft piezos or Schaller or Krivo mags. I’ve never understood impedance stuff very well and have only just to to grips with output impedance and matching cabs. I am, to quote Skynyrd, a simple kind of man. I’m assuming using a preamp (I always use a K&K) addresses this issue as I’ve often just plugged into whatever’s available in studios/at gigs and it’s never been an issue? I may just have been lucky though! Certainly an interesting point on the ampegs though - no mention anywhere.
  12. My amp having recently breathed its last, I’ve seen a few Ampeg PF500s and an Svt450 knocking about which would pair with my cab and have the output I need. But are they good for db, or are they “growly” and colour the sound too much? Any views welcome!!
  13. Hi folks, thanks for the ideas so far. Unfortunately it sounds like there’s no one commonly known easy fix. Damn. Anyway I couldn’t say if it’s the lacquer or what, definitely not residue. Think it’s likely UV exposure fading/darkening the wood or the finish from what I read, though I never gig this bass and it mostly sits in the dark. Might actually try taping it off and using a UV lamp on it. As if it wasn’t going to be hard enough to sell a lefty bass, now I gotta sort this first!
  14. So for whatever reason I decided to put this big Posada sticker on one of my basses. I kept checking under bits of it that fading was even etc but then sure enough I removed the whole thing today and there's a clear, brighter shape where the sticker was. I've seen luthiers work some magic over scratches with varnishes etc - anyone know if anything can be done about problems like this? It's a ply Strunal, if that makes a difference. And "go back in time and don't be an idiot" isn't helpful advice 😀 Cheers!
  • Create New...