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They look like they're from Claire's Accessories

@tinyd - Yes agreed mate, I use the appeggio as the starting point and then try to link smoothly and satisfyingly from one to the other. I work by ear during this process, as I don't know the underlying jazz theory about why a particular dominant third is best to link to a V chord when in a II-VII-V progression and that type of thing, but I'm slowly learning more about this. So if it sounds right, it is right, at least to me ;-) Recently I have done more site reading of bass scores, which feels a bit like reading a book, and I enjoy concentrating on the reading rather than trying to remember what comes up next. But I also enjoy playing my own lines from memory, and it also means that I don't have to use a music stand and use my reading glasses LOL. Of course you can always do away with theory go free-improv, like the double bass solo at 2.15 here, that was in the Grauniad recently - gives me a headache I'm afraid so I'll stick with my amateur jazz method...

@petebassist - arpeggios are pretty fundamental to walking lines so your approach isn't wrong. However, apart from outlining the chords, one of the other 'jobs' of a walking bassline is to provide a sense of forward motion, so using diatonic / chromatic tones to lead smoothly to the next chord can transforms it into something more musical. I'm not saying that I can do this consistently of course, but it's one of my goals

And your point is?

This is getting a bit out of hand. I’ll probably have a Manta by the end of the week too. It seems that Q is a fitting moniker. Or call me Mr. Envelope Filter.

I can’t believe in this day and age people are still making fun of something as serious as Dyslexia, my best mate was dyslexic and had a terrible and tragic life, he sadly died choking on his own Vimto. (sorry couldn’t resist)

I’ve taken a dep in a couple of weeks, which will involve me playing ‘Quando, Quando , Quando’ in a social club. 30 years of graft for this. Shoot me now. :-D

I sometimes feel like a stuck record but, as ever, GSS have a great answer in their Sumo power amps. 600 or 1000w, both under budget new and both about the size of a big DI box.

If it is not good enough for pillows and duvets, it cannot be any good for amps. I would also not buy a duckdown or goosedown amp.

Looks as if it's been used to sweep the chimney

10 years for that reply... that's some thought process.

Thanks for starting/maintaining this list Zilch! I've browsed (but not bought from) Really Great Guitars - seems to be online only. http://www.reallygreatguitars.com/product-category/really-great-guitars/bass/

you've done the right thing Paul. It doesn't matter how good the singing or the playing, if you're a tw@t no one will want to play with you. I still have issues with my band but the main issue (drummer) is gone now. I was so close to leaving too. Glad you have a new project to wave those Thunderbirds at

Not sure this is based on actual classics but it leans towards Jazz, covers all the theory and you get to play along with Peter Erskine (!) on the enclosed CD. (hides behind parapet - it has both tab and dots, Don't think Ed's book has tab) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Art-Walking-Bass-Acoustic-Electric/dp/0793580420

OK. I really should be worried.

Ah, if only Maruszczyk did purple... they could save people 700 quid.

Yes. He must have had some kind of religious conversion.

I'm certainly not offended, you *&%$£! Swanky hotel in Scunthorpe.

Darn it! I wondered why my Ritter and Warrior were slow to sell Better not put my Wal up....I mean WHO would ever want that? LOL

shame. I'm usually on the side of those who want to play more and accept every gig (and one of my bugbears is those band members who claim to be really dedicated when the band forms...and then you find that their definition of "really dedicated" is playing whenever the football isn't on or the garden needs weeding, etc) but that's not the case here, it's clearly that life is currently throwing some of the brown smelly stuff at you. If they can't allow for that then they're not really very good human beings Good luck with your future project - hope it takes off any they're begging you for a support slot before too long.

Ahh....sorry if any swear words offended anyone. I was relying on the profanity filter!

Give him time, mate, give him time ...

Here's a quick reference sheet from Bert Ligon that summarises some of the most important aspects of walking bass lines in one page - it's obviously no substitute for everything discussed above, but it's handy all the same. Bert_Ligon_Fundamental_Bass_Lines.pdf I got it from here - there are a few more bass-specific downloads as well: http://nationaljazzworkshop.org/freestuff.php

@PaulWarning @discreet Should be in the options button at the base of the post window , to the right of Quote and Edit. Click Options then Hide appears. It does for me. Am I special

He's going to be SO chuffed with them ...

Yes, but the guitarist will be able to lay down better versions of your bass lines, no problem ...

Not a very nice guy. I'd say more, but threads have been locked for less. You look nothing like him anyway .Well maybe if I squint and try to add 40 years...

Some really useful advice here, thanks. What Abersold books would you suggest checking out? A tip to accompany this is to use Real Player and programme chord changes in (unless they already are in there...), and practice 4 bar lines.

And I immediately made a joke of it. Apologies if offence taken!

I'm not quite sure of what you mean, but if you mean what I think I mean, then absolutely, that's my intention.

Hahaha. Paul will do for now. This weekend, we/they were due to mix six tracks that were recorded about two months ago. I have contacted the the studio and asked them to remove my bass off the recordings, which is what they're doing. That'll be a nice surprise for them when they turn up on Sunday.

Wow.... check mate! EXACTLY the same thing happened to me a few months back with a band I formed 27 years ago. Pretty much the same 3 character traits for my other 3 band members too....!! They removed me from my band admin rights on Facebook as well.....Freaky!! Sure we weren't both in the same band?!?!? lol! You're right though. A HUGE relief and bigger better things are often just around the corner! I'm now out on the theatre circuit in a much better band and collaborating elsewhere with higher profile and better musicians. The rest of them - same old egos, lies and the sticky-floor club circuit merry-go-round...

Arrived yesterday, 8lb of black sparkly SX Gypsy Rose which I think I'll mod using the black scratchplate from my orange/yellow one, new pick-ups and wiring loom, Ultralites and maybe get the neck refinish in the new year.

Just by way of example, here's some pics of the chrome parts on my 1964 Precision. Note the saddles and screws on the bridge are quite clearly not chrome

Anyone who thinks that high-end HiFi interconnects make a serious difference to the signal quality of the music should pay a visit to the average recording studio and see how many hundreds of feet of very ordinary (but perfectly good) cable the signal has passed through first from the instrument/microphone to the multitrack recording medium.

Electrical quality will only make a difference if the kit that is being supplied has a poorly designed internal supply... Unfortunately some hifi kit does seem to be susceptible to the slightest variation of mains, even if that mains supply is within the spec of the supply regulations! However, I'd say that kit like that shouldn't exist as it doesn't comply with EU regs, or at least with the spirit of the regs (i.e. it should work optimally at any voltage between 216 and 253 volts, at frequencies between 49.5 and 50.5 ohms), and should be able to cope with mild DC offsets and small spikes and rf caused by motor switching etc. And even if it does exist, as it does, a sensible consumer shouldn't buy it! You can get better sound without the shenanigans! And any signal cable that is electrically sufficient, ie has low LCR will do basically nowt to sound quality; however, if you spend lots on, say Van Den Hul carbon cables or the like you're adding what is effectively an uncontrollable tone control! This will sound different because it basically removes some of the top end! And if you buy some of the seriously expensive cables, such as Transparent, Siltech etc the fact that you've spent a fortune on them will pre-dispose your ears to hear a difference where there isn't actually one - it's called expectation bias. At the end of the day it's down to enjoyment of the music - if you get more enjoyment and perceived better sound by lifting your £10k cables with cable lifters at £250 each, having Shakti Stones littered all over your kit, everything standing on 12 levels of Mana and a generous spattering of Machina Dynamica foo gracing your room that's excellent. But I want kit that just works - it's the music i want to enjoy rather than spending a ridiculous amount of time faffing around searching for some impossible-to-find audio nirvana! BTW, I was also a BBC sound engineer for 17 years before retraining as a sparky...

You're correct that it isn't actually a 0 and 1 travelling over the wire in a digital cable, and that it is something like a square wave. But the circuitry / protocols used to send the data will convert these to digital data and eliminate any differences. As long as the cable itself is capable of reliably transmitting a signal, it will work, and all digital cables meet this requirement unless they're actually broken. Once this "bare minimum" requirement is met for a digital cable, it is impossible for it to make any difference to sound quality. It's the same if you download a track from iTunes, it's been read from a disk in a data centre somewhere, transmitted internally over a bunch of bog-standard ethernet cables and optical cables, broken up and bounced between various servers around the world, and then maybe down a phone line to your router and finally wirelessly to your phone. At the lowest level, all of these 'hops' involve some kind of analogue signal and can consist of crappy cabling or a dodgy connection, but the protocols that are used make sure that you get either an exact copy of what was sent, or nothing at all (if something is seriously wrong). What doesn't happen is that you get a better- or worse-sounding file depending on the quality of all these components. One slight caveat here is that many digital services like Netflix and Skype use a technique called 'adaptation' which deliberately modifies the quality of what is being sent to you if your connectivity is poor. But this is deliberately engineered to happen and it would be pointless in an audio system since all cables are more than capable of handling the bandwidth required.

[quote name='Rocker' timestamp='1510242475' post='3404950']Digital signals too are often incorrectly depicted as '0' and '1'. But they are square waves with a minuscule but significant rise and fall time. A 'well built' digital cable will minimize the distortion of the digital signal and result in a truer representation of the signal at the other end.[/quote] Wrong. A digital cable may pick some distortions up during its run, but the receiving device will be able to convert back to pure binary. This is why digital is superior to analogue for accuracy. [quote name='Rocker' timestamp='1510242475' post='3404950']Our ears are exceptionally well adapted for the job of listening to music. We need to trust them.[/quote] Also very wrong. Well, maybe not. Anyway it doesn't matter as regardless of how good our ears are, they are often overruled by the brain. Placebo, confirmation bias, apophenia and many more psychological effects can distort our view of the world. [quote name='Rocker' timestamp='1510242475' post='3404950']One tip for better sound, and I have done this myself, is to get an electrician to install a dedicated SPUR from your mains MCB panel to an unswitched socket for your hi-fi system. And to use 6 sq. m.m. twin & earth cable and to run a seperate 6 sq m.m. earth wire from the socket to the earth block in the MCB board. Unless the electricity supply in your area is very poor quality, this relatively small investment will give a return way in excess of the outlay. 6 sq. m.m. is about the largest cable that can be used with a 13 amp socket. Also to ask your electrician to ensure that the earth connection is actually connected to the earth via an earth spike.[/quote] What tangible benefit does this gain?

I've got a Babicz on my Squier VM70s. It's a brilliant bit of engineering, easy and fast to set the intonation and the action and is absolutely solid as a rock. It has no sharp edges so palm muting is a very comfortable experience. In terms of tone or sustain I honestly couldn't tell the difference between the Babicz and the BBOT it replaced. One thing to bear in mind, the Kickass is an old school high mass bridge,whereas the Babicz is built from light weight aluminium and weighs pretty much the same as a BBOT, so if you want the classic high mass mod, the Kich Ass is probably the way to go. Edit. One more thing, I bought my Babicz, mail order, from Bass Direct and initially they sent the bridge without the screws. No big deal, they sent the screws immediately after I informed them, and I'm not sure if the mistake was BD's or a packaging problem with the manufacturer. Either way I'd check your new bridge has all the bits with it before leaving the shop.

Attempt at being creative - Mustang Santa ? All right, I'm going....just stop throwing stuff..........

[quote name='Chienmortbb' timestamp='1453682464' post='2961846'] Based on the South Coast too at Poole Dorset. Often in Bournemouth, Southampton, Romsey and Winchester areas. Will do basic setup and any electrics/electronics. Including action, intonation, pickup replacement, preamp design and/or installation, pots, caps Jack sockets and general wiring. Custom instrument cables and speaker/speakon leads. Still learning fretwork and finishing so can't do that at the moment. [/quote]Now happy to do fret levelling and crowning.