Bigguy2017

Yes, if you spray some Deoxit D5 on some black plastic, like a CD case, and let it evaporate it leaves a lube residue.

Check the wiring of the cable - if it's an XLR is ground on pin 1?

Got a batter one?

Wow, that's a bit flash... A bit like the Tzar's toilet - in a nice way.... 😉

Obviously belonged to Jacques Cousteau...

Similar experiences in my teens. Jack cables were jack cables (and generally crap). But then again no-one was using more than 100W - usually less. Big transistor PA amps were what first raised concerns - MM Electronics rack units were 400W (?) and used XLRs - that's when we started making 'speaker' cables with mains twin core. The jacks themselves were always border line, XLRs not much better, current wise, and then Neutrik introduced Speakons.

Some in-out with a Krackle Killer and Deoxit D5 works wonders. Bending the contact is a bodge - better to order a new Switchcraft jack... which will last decades... The worst are the tubular jacks which need replacing every few (?) years. Avoid cheapo 'gold plated' connectors - whatever they are plated with (it aint gold) quickly wears off and gums up the jack contacts.

Best would be try for spares from the manufacturer. As other NZ poster suggested, try your local model shop for someone with a small lathe who can turn you up some new ones. A harder type of brass or bronze would be better. A cheap fix would be to clean and degrease the holes, fill with metal loaded epoxy (Epoxy Steel etc. from eBay) then cut and file screwdriver slots.

First try re-seating the valves.

Can you reverse the magnets? If so you could do a RWRP humbucking thing. EA in parallel, DG in parallel, then EA in series with DG like a P bass...

Nah, it needs a tone control.

Try lowering the pickup(s) on the G side.

Not perspex - too brittle and will likely crack when drilling fixing holes near the edge. Some sort of styrene / ABS ? What do people generally use? 2.5 - 3.0mm sheet.

Double a piece of wet and dry around a thinner string (the old set will do nicely) and use that to form the slots. Start coarse and polish with fine. Cut slots at the same angle as the headstock - angle A + D slots toward the tuners. Mask off the headstock (remove truss rod cover) and fretboard to avoid scratches. Measure / offer up string frequently. Capo on fret three and 10-20 thou between fret one and string is a good start... You could improvise a GroovBar type of thing to get the depths in the ball park and prevent cutting too deep. Cutting too deep is bad... very bad. Take your time, measure often and all will be well - worst case is a new nut. 😉

As suggested clean the FX send + return jacks. It sounds more like a intermittent dry joint coming and going with warm up Do a thorough visual inspection looking for bad soldering, leaking or domed capacitors, loose connectors etc. To localise, try powering it on with the cover off and tapping / poking with a wooden chop stick. Tap the components and connectors. Flex the PCB. If you do reproduce the fault then reflow the solder joints in that area.

On your exterior door you need to weld the hinge pins in place, otherwise they can be drifted out and the door removed.

I give a few to a model maker mate of mine. He uses them for pilot's oxygen hoses amongst other things...

A Columbus Jazz, sunburst with block markers, was my first 'proper' bass. I paid £80 for it, new, in a Brum music shop in 1973 (?). It worked - you could play bass on it... The Fender Musicmaster was a big upgrade.

Got to agree... I like the Rockboard flat cables RockBoard RBO CAB PC F 10 BLK Flat Patch Cable, 10cm (gak.co.uk) I can't make them for that price. I've got an iron set up ready and a bag of bits so making up cables is not a chore, but only really necessary for custom lengths. I've been soldering and making cables for over 40 years so it's no hassle - quite enjoyable and meditative when you're all set up with the bits and bobs.... 🙂

Maybe they fit the stacked pot for two pickup models? So why not save a few bucks and use a single pot with the single pickup... Strange.

Hmmm... as drawn that second 250K pot does nothing.

Oh, forgot; they have separate solder tags for screen and signal too, and an insulator sheet... Use a Philips 1 screwdriver.

I rate the Hicon flat angled jacks. They fit tightly onto Sommer XXL cable - even tighter with an H3 sleeve. Use some Tippex or nail varnish on the screws.

Am I missing something here? They sound stinky poo in the demo.

If you must scour them use a Scotchbrite pad and some isopropyl alcohol.. Wire wool will leave sharp bits of metal everywhere.