Bigguy2017

first this then this

Autowah + delay?

Service manual here http://hpbimg.someinfos.de/diy/allgemein/_schematics/amp-schem/trace-elliot-GP12-serie6-200w.pdf Incoming live is fused, then transformer, bridge rectifier diodes, reservoir caps. All fairly standard. Check / replace fuse. Look for AC and DC volts on the rectifier diodes. This will show if the mains transformer is OK. This amp has been rewired at some time...

Obviously the answer depends on what you like... For genuine leather, plain or padded it's hard to better Pinegrove Leather. https://www.pinegroveleather.com/ Got their 60mm jobs on most of my guitars.

The Wilkinson BBOT bridge with brass saddles is worth a look. Not expensive either. https://www.northwestguitars.co.uk/wilkinson-jazz-precision-bass-bridge-with-brass-saddles/ https://www.northwestguitars.co.uk/hardtail-through-body-bass-guitar-bridge/

It's the whole Watts v Loudness thing... also 'solid state' Watts v valve Watts... BG250-208 combo only gives 250W into 4R with an extension cab - the internal speaker load is 8R, so only 120W ish Speaker efficiency is a big factor. I have the vol at 45% for neighbour friendly living room practicing. I used to gig in a loud NWOBM band using a Maine 120W 2 x 12 combo and two Vitavox 15" W bins; this was extremely, trouser flapping loud! So many of the new class D amps around 200/300W don't give as much volume as a 100W Orange valve head into a 4 x 12" cab... on the other hand, with some very efficient cabs a 50W amp will do.

My bro' does pub gigs (electric, folky - e-guitar, a-guitar, mandolin, bass, rhythm, vocals) with a TC BG250-208 combo, but usually they have no drums just one of those cajon things... With drums it is not loud enough.

Rotosound RS66LD 45-105 roundwound Fender 7250M 45-105 roundwound LaBella 760FS 45-105 flatwound

You could try the damp cloth and soldering iron trick to remove the ding before refinishing. I've had good luck with it.

Mackie MDB DI boxes say they have line level balanced outputs. See page 9 of the manual. Seems more likely on the active models? Specs don't actually state the output level. ;-( https://mackie.com/sites/default/files/PRODUCT RESOURCES/MANUALS/Owners_Manuals/MDB Series Direct Boxes_OM.pdf

Usually undoing the big screw and removing the gear allows the wormgear/keyshaft to be removed and reversed. Not sure if that's possible with these - Schaller's website is hopeless. Maybe email them. As a manufacturer it saves money and tooling to make them reversable, but it's not clear with this model.

You want a bass DI box... Radial do a few, passive and active https://www.radialeng.com/product_category/direct-box https://www.radialeng.com/product/jdi There are cheaper options http://www.samsontech.com/samson/products/processors/s-max/mda1/ https://www.bax-shop.co.uk/di-box/samson-mda1-active-di-box on offer £29.00 !! https://www.gearank.com/guides/di-box

Have to agree. The best P pickup is the Fender Custom Shop '62 P-Bass YMMV

Prices of US kit have risen across the board due to exchange rates. https://www.macrotrends.net/2549/pound-dollar-exchange-rate-historical-chart Pound has been losing value against the dollar for decades. All that quantative easing and debt is costing us.

If the tone pot turns down the volume (and the vol pot also turns down the volume) then the tone cap is being bypassed (shorted out somehow - either to a pot leg or a bare bit of wiring)...

Meanwell do some 28V encapsulated PSUs https://www.powersuppliesonline.co.uk/power-adapters/gst25a28-p1j-25w-28v-0-89a-power-adapter.html How many amps does it need?

Steel because it's magnetic and cheap, and nickel plate to prevent rusting. Works great, what else could you use? Iron, nickel, cobalt and gadolinium are the four magnetic metals; Iron (as steel) is the cheapest, is readily available and easy to work with. Various alloys of the four could be used. Dunno, other than steel, nickels or cobalts, what's out there?

That sounds like something going into oscillation. Most likely; dry joint/bad connection bad decoupling capacitors op-amp or transistor faulty faulty bright switch Have a really good look at the PCB, check the soldering, look for leaky/bulging caps. Unplug/replug all the connections, give them a squirt of Deoxit. Give all the wiring/connectors a wiggle to see if you can localise the problem. https://www.flyguitars.com/gibson/bass/RDartist_techinfo.php https://www.flyguitars.com/gibson/bass/RDartist_circuit_diagram.php That's a beast of a circuit diagram...

It does depend on your playing style (light, diggin' in, pick, finger), your bass (output level, tone) and what you want sound like (clean, grungy, fuzzy, vintage motown). Also how loud the rest of the band are... The Fender Rumble and TC BG250-112 will get you clean and motown and also dirty (Fender has a drive knob, tc has Toneprints) . Volume wise they both will work live but the tc will struggle in a loud band and likes a second cab. Bottom line is what you like not what I like ! 😉

Fender Rumble or TC Electronic BG250-112. It's best to try them with your bass, but CoViD will make this tricky...

Should not matter. You could rotate the pickup a tad like a telecaster.

1. Yes. Both op-amps are shown unity gain so one might need an input resistor (Rin) on pin5 and a resistor (Rf) in the neg feedback loop (pin 2) to match the levels with differing pickups. Gain = Rf / Rin 2. If vol pots were before the op-amps then no, as U1 is acting as a buffer.

I'm in Leith so it's not me...