Bigguy2017

During and after.... This is the same case that G&L and others come with, so similar repairs are possible.

My Rick bass case, the standard factory black ABS one has the pretty common impacted/broken foot problem. I'd been meaning to fix it for months and finally did the necessary. After much investigation I decided Araldite epoxy and a patch wouldn't work (the case being ABS - a styrene plastic) but various MEK pipe-weld solutions would. Also the cement I use for archery, for fixing fletches to arrows, being MEK based would work with ABS. I found a foot repair kit on eBay from Rickysounds https://ebay.co.uk/itm/Foot-Repair-Kit-For-Rickenbacker-Standard-Cases-Set-Of-4/292375721240?hash=item4412f37518:g:lo0AAOSwvApaOCk0 After a couple of hours toil the end result is excellent, and at £20 a lot cheaper than a new case and it keeps the originalilty. So if you have this problem and fancy a bit of DIY I'd recommend the repair kit - adhesive is optional but it's a better job with I think. Here's my DIY guide to the repair... Rickenbacker case broken foot fix ========================== You will need the following items... Rickysounds case foot repair kit consisiting of; 4 x large ABS repair pieces (for lower half of case, inner and outer) 4 x smaller ABS repair pieces (for case lid, inner and outer) 4 x rubber feet 4 x longer allen bolts (for repair pieces and foot) 8 x shorter allen bolts (for repair pieces) 12 x penny washers 12 x spring washers 12 x flanged nuts 8mm nut spinner 3mm allen key 5mm drill decorater's scraper medium pliers Saunders NPV arrow mate cement (optional) MEK pipe weld adhesive (optional) nitrile rubber glove/s (optional) 240 grit wet and dry abrasive paper (optional) 1/2" paint brush (optional) cloth (optional) *** DO THIS IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA *** *** WEAR RUBBER GLOVES WHEN USING MEK AND AVOID BREATHING IN THE FUMES *** *** WARNING - MEK AND MPV ADHESIVE ARE FLAMMABLE *** ============================ Segregate the various pieces and fittings and understand where they are to go... From the outside the order is; rubber foot outer repair piece (larger on case lower half, smaller on case upper/lid) adhesive (optional) case wall adhesive (optional) inner repair piece penny washer spring washer flanged nut 1. carefully release and pry out polystyrene case lining with scraper 2. remove existing metal cone feet by compressing retaining lugs with pliers and pulling free 3. from outside, drill out existing foot mounting hole with 5mm drill 4. roughen outer repair piece with emery and paint repair piece and similar area of case with MEK 5. apply NPV cement to repair piece 6. using one of the four longer allen bolts, fix outer repair piece in place using centre 5mm hole 7. align repair piece square to case edge, and drill other two 5mm holes 8. insert two shorter allen bolts in new holes move to the case's inside... 9. apply NPV cement to inner repair piece and locate in place on the three allen bolts 10. on each allen bolt put a penny washer, spring washer and a flanged nut. 11. tighten nuts with 8mm nut spinner, using 3mm allen key to stop bolts spinning. tighten some more as the repair pieces settle into place. 12. remove any excess adhesive using some MEK on a cloth 13. repeat with the other end of the case 14. move the the other half of the case and repeat the above... 15. replace the polystyrene case lining pieces 16. All done... Keep the repaired case, open, in a well ventilated area for the next 24 hours to allow adhesives to harden and fumes to disperse.

OK, this one's a fence not a wall... The old RSRE North, Malvern around 1980

Virgin Star @ MWG 03.tif

I used to gig with 2 x 15" Vitavox in W bins and a 2 x 12 " Maine combo on top. Sounded fine but was LOUD. It needed to be loud because of the loud drums. I'm much happier with everyone taking it down a bit and letting the PA do the work....

Angles are approx like this...

See attached diagram... Hercules stand mod.pdfHercules stand mod.pdf

I recently bought a Hercules GS523B Guitar Rack for my basses. It's a well made rack but has, to my mind, an annoyance in that it holds guitars canted at an angle. With basses (longer necks) the heads project beyond the stand's footprint and make it impossible to place it against the wall. Some though later and I devised a useful mod. The lower, rear padded crossbar can be mounted in two positions (there are two sets of screw holes 30mm apart). I drilled a third (6mm) hole, 40mm further back and mounted the crossbar there. The basses now sit much more upright. Another small gain can be gotten by moving the end stops for the sliding mech to the higher set of holes. The rack now sits (almost) up against the wall and the basses are more upright. Stability is maybe improved too. See attached crappy pic...

Morning All I'm Guy from Edinburgh. I'm 60 years old and last gigged in a new metal band in Malvern in 1996. Still playing bass and recently getting back in to it more seriously.

Well this is what I looked like in 1962... And today. And gigging circa 1984...