Bigguy2017

Strings and pickup height are the factors here. My Precision really growls with Rotosound roundwounds.

I'd just darken it with a Sharpie, oil the fretboard and get on with life... 😉

You can control it from a tablet over WiFi https://www.presonus.com/learn/technical-articles/How-To-Network-Studiolive-Digital-Mixers-for-Remote-Control https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8h7E4CqBmAQ&ab_channel=AllenAsh https://www.presonus.com/products/studiolive-remote

Most likely NTC Thermistors - they start off high resistance then go low resistance with heating up. Ashdown will provide a circuit diagram if you ask nicely...

switch 1 is mute ON/OFF switch 2 is TonePrint ON/OFF switch 3 is TonePrint 1 / TonePrint 2 Use the TC TonePrint phone app and 'beam' it in via your pickup.

Cheapest to do it yourself with a step drill... Otherwise I have used both Andolite and Bryant to do custom panels. Andolite Limited https://www.andolite.co.uk Bryant Unlimited https://www.bryant-unlimited.co.uk

100Hz hum - suspect the PSU smoothing caps are fooked... send it back

That is the perfect Stingray, 2 band EQ is the best.

or best offer...

It's lovely grain but a bit of a boring colour - a red stain to bring out the grain pattern then a satin lacquer ?

Martin Turner on Wishbone Ash - Sometime World, both the first and the second halves....

Does "Turn that racket down!" count as encouragement?

If it's just the clearcoat then fill with super glue + wet & dry sanding works - Micromesh is excellent I've heard good things about Gluboost https://gluboost.com/flexible-repair-finish-products/ https://thetonebar.co.uk/more-gluboost-products/

Only ever seen that once, on an Ibanez that was coated in bullet proof glass stuff.

Great amps for guitar but too much early breakup for bass, unless you like a dirty sound with a bit of fart... 😉 Solidly built. Our guitarist rated them better than Marshalls in the '80s.

I was the same about Telecasters for decades... nasty twangy, shrill, uncomfortable things... Then a few years ago I got it... USE THE TONE CONTROL. Now I love them. So simple, they just work and let you concentrate on PLAYING. And single coils really cut when pushed into dirt. They are now my fave guitars.

first this then this

Autowah + delay?

Service manual here http://hpbimg.someinfos.de/diy/allgemein/_schematics/amp-schem/trace-elliot-GP12-serie6-200w.pdf Incoming live is fused, then transformer, bridge rectifier diodes, reservoir caps. All fairly standard. Check / replace fuse. Look for AC and DC volts on the rectifier diodes. This will show if the mains transformer is OK. This amp has been rewired at some time...

Obviously the answer depends on what you like... For genuine leather, plain or padded it's hard to better Pinegrove Leather. https://www.pinegroveleather.com/ Got their 60mm jobs on most of my guitars.

The Wilkinson BBOT bridge with brass saddles is worth a look. Not expensive either. https://www.northwestguitars.co.uk/wilkinson-jazz-precision-bass-bridge-with-brass-saddles/ https://www.northwestguitars.co.uk/hardtail-through-body-bass-guitar-bridge/

It's the whole Watts v Loudness thing... also 'solid state' Watts v valve Watts... BG250-208 combo only gives 250W into 4R with an extension cab - the internal speaker load is 8R, so only 120W ish Speaker efficiency is a big factor. I have the vol at 45% for neighbour friendly living room practicing. I used to gig in a loud NWOBM band using a Maine 120W 2 x 12 combo and two Vitavox 15" W bins; this was extremely, trouser flapping loud! So many of the new class D amps around 200/300W don't give as much volume as a 100W Orange valve head into a 4 x 12" cab... on the other hand, with some very efficient cabs a 50W amp will do.

My bro' does pub gigs (electric, folky - e-guitar, a-guitar, mandolin, bass, rhythm, vocals) with a TC BG250-208 combo, but usually they have no drums just one of those cajon things... With drums it is not loud enough.