Bigguy2017

Capo on first fret, press down 17th fret, measure neck relief on E and G sides at 7th fret with feeler guage . Set truss rods for 10 thou on G and 12 thou on E... ?? loosen both truss rods and check relief increases - therefore truss rods are working re-tighten truss rods to get the 10/12 thou relief - if there are still free turns on the truss rods (ideally enough to get some back-bow) then all is AOK.

You could build one with an Arduino and some switches... 10 MIDI Controllers You Can Build With an Arduino | MakeUseOf

Guitar Tone Knobs | Gear4music

A helium balloon on the head end?

All working AOK and as expected here - using Edge browser

Sounds like you need to shim the neck to get the saddles at about half height. Truss rod won't do this. I've had some old Stingrays where a factory (?) shim has pressed itself flush in to the body over time. Pop the neck off and have a look, try a playing card shim at the head end of the neck pocket.

I've just taken some Labella 760F-MUS off my Mustang; they sound great on the Precision but a bit flabby and loose on the Mustang. They need to be heavier guage for a 30" scale. I'm currently using D'Addario EXL160M medium scale (through-body Mustang) nickel roundwounds. The heavier guage 50-70-85-105 gives better tension and real punch. Liking them. Cheap too. Yet to try Tomastiks (suspect they will be very loose). D'Addario chromes are on the radar for a try... Go with a heavier guage unless you like floppy, low tension strings.

Strings and pickup height are the factors here. My Precision really growls with Rotosound roundwounds.

I'd just darken it with a Sharpie, oil the fretboard and get on with life... 😉

You can control it from a tablet over WiFi https://www.presonus.com/learn/technical-articles/How-To-Network-Studiolive-Digital-Mixers-for-Remote-Control https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8h7E4CqBmAQ&ab_channel=AllenAsh https://www.presonus.com/products/studiolive-remote

Most likely NTC Thermistors - they start off high resistance then go low resistance with heating up. Ashdown will provide a circuit diagram if you ask nicely...

switch 1 is mute ON/OFF switch 2 is TonePrint ON/OFF switch 3 is TonePrint 1 / TonePrint 2 Use the TC TonePrint phone app and 'beam' it in via your pickup.

Cheapest to do it yourself with a step drill... Otherwise I have used both Andolite and Bryant to do custom panels. Andolite Limited https://www.andolite.co.uk Bryant Unlimited https://www.bryant-unlimited.co.uk

100Hz hum - suspect the PSU smoothing caps are fooked... send it back

That is the perfect Stingray, 2 band EQ is the best.

or best offer...

It's lovely grain but a bit of a boring colour - a red stain to bring out the grain pattern then a satin lacquer ?

Martin Turner on Wishbone Ash - Sometime World, both the first and the second halves....

Does "Turn that racket down!" count as encouragement?

If it's just the clearcoat then fill with super glue + wet & dry sanding works - Micromesh is excellent I've heard good things about Gluboost https://gluboost.com/flexible-repair-finish-products/ https://thetonebar.co.uk/more-gluboost-products/

Only ever seen that once, on an Ibanez that was coated in bullet proof glass stuff.

Great amps for guitar but too much early breakup for bass, unless you like a dirty sound with a bit of fart... 😉 Solidly built. Our guitarist rated them better than Marshalls in the '80s.

I was the same about Telecasters for decades... nasty twangy, shrill, uncomfortable things... Then a few years ago I got it... USE THE TONE CONTROL. Now I love them. So simple, they just work and let you concentrate on PLAYING. And single coils really cut when pushed into dirt. They are now my fave guitars.