Bigguy2017

Yes, they're made of polycarbonate, have proper tight sockets and chunky cable. They're rated at 16Amps too. I use the funky coloured ones for segregating AV and studio stuff.

Try CPC Farnell They deliver next day (if in stock) - remember the VAT + delivery charges 😉 https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-elec/pel01274/extension-reel-mini-2-way-15m/dp/PL16098 https://cpc.farnell.com/c/electrical-lighting/extension-leads-cable-reels I use their 8 ways and they are robust. https://cpc.farnell.com/brennenstuhl/1150613318/extension-skt-surge-8-way-anthracite/dp/PL13410

Yes. Put some sleeving or insulation tape over them and tie/velcro them out the way. The DC jack's outer metal part is at DC supply voltage and if it touches any 0V bits (pedal jacks, switches and cases) it will short circuit the power supply. This can knock out other pedals and make pops and splats. Could even damage a cheapo power supply.

Looks like the Ampeg pre output is low level (-10dB or less ? - not stated in the manual) and better suited to FX returns

Or use an active unbal to bal converter like the Sonifex RB-UL1, Alice MatchPack or cheapo Art CleanBox to make up the levels (if you fancy some DIY the Sonifex has loads or room to add two jack sockets parallel to the phonos in).

Hmmm.... with the RMX1850 you've got plenty of watts available, so it's a problem at the amp input or amp output. What cabling method are you using? This could be a cabling issue. I'd connect amp ch1 to one 8R cab and amp ch2 to the other 8R cab (the other option is the two cabs paralleled to 4R and connected to the amp in mono bridge mode - this will give max amp power). As to the amp inputs you've got the option of bal XLR, mono jack or screw terminals - as the preamp outs are unbal mono I'd go jack-to-jack to the amp's jack ins with two mono jack cables. If things are still not loud enough it's either the preamp's out is low level (-10dB?) or the power amp (at +3.5dB) is not very sensitive, (and/or speakers are low efficiency). If it is a case of low levels then you need to make up an extra 13.5dB approx - you could use a HPF (Broughton) or compressor (dbx 166xs, Drawmer DL241) between pre and power amps to make up the gain... or it might be cheaper to swap the power amp.

GK 700RB even has a tuner out jack on the front panel... MANUAL https://static1.squarespace.com/static/52d881e0e4b093afad1a2ae2/t/54a31083e4b01142025c9b56/1419972739424/700rb_1001rb.pdf

Use the amp's effect send into the tuner.

Similar experiences here; barrel jacks just don't last. Genuine Switchcraft seem the best of the bunch. Pure Tone do one BUT I don't think it's multi-contact like their fancy open jacks... One thing I have noticed is that the jack's rotational position relative to the pull on the cable makes a difference - a pull in one direction causes signal loss but the other three cardinal directions do not. If you're getting signal drops from cable wiggles try rotating the socket 180 degrees.

Fender Rumble 200 block diagram shows a second order (12dB/octave) HPF. No indication of cut-off frequency.

First try putting a jack cable between effects send and return - it's common for the switched jacks to play up when rarely used. Then try plugging effects out into another amp - this will show if the preamp is working. Also plug a line level signal into the effects return - this will show if the power amp is working. Power down, isolate and do a thorough visual inspection - replug any connectors, look and smell for burnt components and swollen caps.

Or just bolt it to a 2U rack shelf.

Hotter pickups = more wire = louder + less bright (or hotter pickups = stronger magnets = louder)

Yes, A to D spacing is very wide - looks like the string positions on the saddles

My ballpark setup is a 10p piece on the 12th fret just drags on the string (2mm). The Stingray is a bit lower - 1.75mm.

The Quiklok BS317 Amp Stand is solid, inexpensive and works for me... £39.00 + P+P https://www.andertons.co.uk/guitar-dept/electric-guitar-accessories/electric-guitar-hangers-stands/quiklok-bs317-amp-stand

Try Matty Dread on eBay - he's in Ireland and made me some replacement string pullers for a Hohner headless bass Steinberger tailpiece. https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/mattydread2012 drop him an email...

Yes, if you spray some Deoxit D5 on some black plastic, like a CD case, and let it evaporate it leaves a lube residue.

Check the wiring of the cable - if it's an XLR is ground on pin 1?

Got a batter one?

Wow, that's a bit flash... A bit like the Tzar's toilet - in a nice way.... 😉

Obviously belonged to Jacques Cousteau...

Similar experiences in my teens. Jack cables were jack cables (and generally crap). But then again no-one was using more than 100W - usually less. Big transistor PA amps were what first raised concerns - MM Electronics rack units were 400W (?) and used XLRs - that's when we started making 'speaker' cables with mains twin core. The jacks themselves were always border line, XLRs not much better, current wise, and then Neutrik introduced Speakons.

Some in-out with a Krackle Killer and Deoxit D5 works wonders. Bending the contact is a bodge - better to order a new Switchcraft jack... which will last decades... The worst are the tubular jacks which need replacing every few (?) years. Avoid cheapo 'gold plated' connectors - whatever they are plated with (it aint gold) quickly wears off and gums up the jack contacts.

Best would be try for spares from the manufacturer. As other NZ poster suggested, try your local model shop for someone with a small lathe who can turn you up some new ones. A harder type of brass or bronze would be better. A cheap fix would be to clean and degrease the holes, fill with metal loaded epoxy (Epoxy Steel etc. from eBay) then cut and file screwdriver slots.