Bigguy2017

Not easy. Not easy at all... 3m x 3m (square) means same standing waves across and along the room. You'll have a very pronounced ring around 114Hz and 228Hz. If the ceiling is also at 3m ish thing will be even worse. Dealing with these low frequencies needs thick absorbers - 75mm spaced 75mm off the walls. Any irregular surfaces for dispersion will help with the mids and highs but a large low frequency peak like you have is difficult to stop. 2m x 1m x 75mm hard fibreglass panels or Rockwool filled frames (cheaper option) covering most of the walls with corner bass traps are called for but they would take 300mm off the room dimensions. https://www.studiospares.com/acoustics/acoustic-panels/primacoustic-broadband-panel-beveled-24-x-48-x-3-grey_464772.htm or similar Tuned membrane absorbers matched to the room node(s) can also work. Use Audacity to generate pink noise and put this through your speakers. A decent LDC mic at the listening position and Spectralissime Spectrum Analyzer will show where the big peaks and dips are and their amplitude.

Not sure if these are tall enough, but... Heavy Duty Drum Throne | Drummerworld Forum

Two options like these... J Bass blend pot wiring.pdf

Could be a weak magnetic polepiece for the A.

And the blurry font for the serial number - genuine US Fender's serials are crisp and clean...

Saddles are high and action is low, so a neck shim is most likely needed. First check neck straightness and relief.

Les Paul. For bass? Hard to say...

If it comes and goes as you move the bass around it is some external interference being picked up by the bass' wiring. As rmorris asks, is the bass screened? If not, screen the pickup and control cavities with copper tape/foil and connect it to the basses ground. It is 'normal' with unscreened instruments to pick up interference. The other approach is to find the source of the buzz, in the house, and if possible eliminate it. This can be any electrical kit - mains transformer in the amp, wireless routers, networking over mains units, mobiles and chargers, HVAC, light dimmers and even ring mains wiring. As it's a constant buzz it's probably the mains wiring - if it's the amp getting closer makes the buzz worse and most of the other sources are intermittent or pulsed. Best approach is to screen the bass - it will then be good wherever you take it... 😉 https://www.allparts.uk.com/products/shielding-copper-tape-1-inch-x-5-feet-25mm-x-1-5m or similar

Are you on Bandcamp? If not put up some tracks of your playing; as much as possible to showcase your chops...

It's a good idea to wire the ground to the sleeve AND the ring. This way it will power on pedals and active basses etc.

I have the same on my MIJ Mustang and like them a lot. Nice tension and balance and they last.

For 'vintage' P Bass sounds the Fender Custom Shop '62 P Bass Pickup is the nuts. Better than the stock PUP in my Mex P Bass... Not the cheapest, but the best for 'classic' 60s Precision tone... Fender Custom Shop 62 P-Bass Pickup – Thomann UK https://www.thomann.de/gb/fender_custom_shop_62_p_bass_pickup.htm

Green Scotchbrite pad. Then wax with Gunstock Wax for the Musicman feel....

Sounds heat related? Dry joint developing when amp warms up... The 'chopstick method' when the fault occurs could help to localise the fault. (tap/poke the PCB and components, connectors etc. with an insulated chopstick to find dry joints). Could be a transistor - they have been known to go weirdly faulty after many years.

That's the classic 'folding Ric'... the neck pickup route is way too big and takes a huge chunk out the neck/body wood; then string tension slowly folds the bass around the neck 'joint'. Add in a bit of tail lift and you have what we see here. It can be fixed by inserting a hard maple block to fill the pickup route, then re-routing a new, smaller, pickup size hole. My 4003 started to go this way and I ran out of adjustment on the bridge saddle height - as the tailpiece was also showing some lift I replaced it with a Hipshot Ric bridge (a simple drop-in replacement). This eliminated the tail lift and also allowed the saddles to go much lower, restoring a playable action. Lighter gauge strings (40 - 100), as factory fitted, do help.

My old eyes aren't what they used to be..... 😞

Amazon the last time - or the local bike shop. Finish Line Teflon Plus Dry Lube is an alternative.

A white pearloid (mother of toilet seat) pickguard would work.

Yes, lubricate them, they need it. Occasionally. Use some 'dry' lube (TriFlow etc.) on the gearing and the bushings. For the hoops retaining the worm I use Loctite Superlube in the pen oiler... also good for enclosed Klusons, bridge screws etc. Do it once and forget for a few years... avoid anything too runny as it leaks everyehere.

No, it's 35R - the SMD resistor code is XXY where XX is value and Y is number of zeroes added i.e. 35 and zero zeroes = 35R

It looks nothing like the other Chyla basses, has no logos, serial or makers mark and has Harley Benton pickups... hmmm...

If solidly re-plugging doesn't get it to work, open up both plugs and check they are both wired for 1+ and 1- (not 2+ or 2-) If incorrect rewire to 1+ and 1- at both ends.

Another Precision - one for flats, one for roundwound... A Ric or a Thunderbird.

Wow, that's a desert island bass - I could die happy with such perfection...

It's like a gun safe for basses - like it.