Bigguy2017

Are you on Bandcamp? If not put up some tracks of your playing; as much as possible to showcase your chops...

It's a good idea to wire the ground to the sleeve AND the ring. This way it will power on pedals and active basses etc.

I have the same on my MIJ Mustang and like them a lot. Nice tension and balance and they last.

For 'vintage' P Bass sounds the Fender Custom Shop '62 P Bass Pickup is the nuts. Better than the stock PUP in my Mex P Bass... Not the cheapest, but the best for 'classic' 60s Precision tone... Fender Custom Shop 62 P-Bass Pickup – Thomann UK https://www.thomann.de/gb/fender_custom_shop_62_p_bass_pickup.htm

Green Scotchbrite pad. Then wax with Gunstock Wax for the Musicman feel....

Sounds heat related? Dry joint developing when amp warms up... The 'chopstick method' when the fault occurs could help to localise the fault. (tap/poke the PCB and components, connectors etc. with an insulated chopstick to find dry joints). Could be a transistor - they have been known to go weirdly faulty after many years.

That's the classic 'folding Ric'... the neck pickup route is way too big and takes a huge chunk out the neck/body wood; then string tension slowly folds the bass around the neck 'joint'. Add in a bit of tail lift and you have what we see here. It can be fixed by inserting a hard maple block to fill the pickup route, then re-routing a new, smaller, pickup size hole. My 4003 started to go this way and I ran out of adjustment on the bridge saddle height - as the tailpiece was also showing some lift I replaced it with a Hipshot Ric bridge (a simple drop-in replacement). This eliminated the tail lift and also allowed the saddles to go much lower, restoring a playable action. Lighter gauge strings (40 - 100), as factory fitted, do help.

My old eyes aren't what they used to be..... 😞

Amazon the last time - or the local bike shop. Finish Line Teflon Plus Dry Lube is an alternative.

A white pearloid (mother of toilet seat) pickguard would work.

Yes, lubricate them, they need it. Occasionally. Use some 'dry' lube (TriFlow etc.) on the gearing and the bushings. For the hoops retaining the worm I use Loctite Superlube in the pen oiler... also good for enclosed Klusons, bridge screws etc. Do it once and forget for a few years... avoid anything too runny as it leaks everyehere.

No, it's 35R - the SMD resistor code is XXY where XX is value and Y is number of zeroes added i.e. 35 and zero zeroes = 35R

It looks nothing like the other Chyla basses, has no logos, serial or makers mark and has Harley Benton pickups... hmmm...

If solidly re-plugging doesn't get it to work, open up both plugs and check they are both wired for 1+ and 1- (not 2+ or 2-) If incorrect rewire to 1+ and 1- at both ends.

Another Precision - one for flats, one for roundwound... A Ric or a Thunderbird.

Wow, that's a desert island bass - I could die happy with such perfection...

It's like a gun safe for basses - like it.

Yes, just plug a patch cable between effects send and return - this will override the switching jacks. Plug bass though a pedal to get some boost, then into effects return - if the power amp section is working you should get something. Also check the speaker (push on?) tags are well connected...

Try the effects send and return - first plug a patch cable from send to return jacks - the switch jacks are notorious for going high resistance if unused... If it's not this, I'm guessing the preamp section is dead (no DI out) but the power amp section may be working - plug something into the effects return. and see if you get noises. Otherwise a close visual inspection / unplug replug internally is a place to start

Bound neck and staple pickups - looks like a Chofner one, no? https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/1005002459761647.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2bra

Newtone will make you some... https://newtonestrings.com/shop/diamond-5-string-bass/

Bronco pick guard...

Virtuoso polish for nitro finishes then Music Nomad Guitar Wax for final finish and chrome work. Microfibre cloths/towels - one for polish on, one for shine, one for buffing. Fret rubbers or 3M polishing sheets for frets. I lube all the bridge screws, posts, tuners and truss rod with Loctite Superlube (the pen oiler is handy) when I get a guitar - nothing then rusts or seizes up. I give them a good clean and polish at string changes - check strap buttons for tightness and fix if needed - All my Fenders had loose strap button screws and needed plugging and gluing (soft body wood?).

Same here... my '88 Stingray gets a tweak twice a year when the seasons change.

??? Not here - shows 8 x 13A UK sockets and 13A UK plug...