Bigguy2017

Amazon the last time - or the local bike shop. Finish Line Teflon Plus Dry Lube is an alternative.

A white pearloid (mother of toilet seat) pickguard would work.

Yes, lubricate them, they need it. Occasionally. Use some 'dry' lube (TriFlow etc.) on the gearing and the bushings. For the hoops retaining the worm I use Loctite Superlube in the pen oiler... also good for enclosed Klusons, bridge screws etc. Do it once and forget for a few years... avoid anything too runny as it leaks everyehere.

No, it's 35R - the SMD resistor code is XXY where XX is value and Y is number of zeroes added i.e. 35 and zero zeroes = 35R

It looks nothing like the other Chyla basses, has no logos, serial or makers mark and has Harley Benton pickups... hmmm...

If solidly re-plugging doesn't get it to work, open up both plugs and check they are both wired for 1+ and 1- (not 2+ or 2-) If incorrect rewire to 1+ and 1- at both ends.

Another Precision - one for flats, one for roundwound... A Ric or a Thunderbird.

Wow, that's a desert island bass - I could die happy with such perfection...

It's like a gun safe for basses - like it.

Yes, just plug a patch cable between effects send and return - this will override the switching jacks. Plug bass though a pedal to get some boost, then into effects return - if the power amp section is working you should get something. Also check the speaker (push on?) tags are well connected...

Try the effects send and return - first plug a patch cable from send to return jacks - the switch jacks are notorious for going high resistance if unused... If it's not this, I'm guessing the preamp section is dead (no DI out) but the power amp section may be working - plug something into the effects return. and see if you get noises. Otherwise a close visual inspection / unplug replug internally is a place to start

Bound neck and staple pickups - looks like a Chofner one, no? https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/1005002459761647.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2bra

Newtone will make you some... https://newtonestrings.com/shop/diamond-5-string-bass/

Bronco pick guard...

Virtuoso polish for nitro finishes then Music Nomad Guitar Wax for final finish and chrome work. Microfibre cloths/towels - one for polish on, one for shine, one for buffing. Fret rubbers or 3M polishing sheets for frets. I lube all the bridge screws, posts, tuners and truss rod with Loctite Superlube (the pen oiler is handy) when I get a guitar - nothing then rusts or seizes up. I give them a good clean and polish at string changes - check strap buttons for tightness and fix if needed - All my Fenders had loose strap button screws and needed plugging and gluing (soft body wood?).

Same here... my '88 Stingray gets a tweak twice a year when the seasons change.

??? Not here - shows 8 x 13A UK sockets and 13A UK plug...

Yes, they're made of polycarbonate, have proper tight sockets and chunky cable. They're rated at 16Amps too. I use the funky coloured ones for segregating AV and studio stuff.

Try CPC Farnell They deliver next day (if in stock) - remember the VAT + delivery charges 😉 https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-elec/pel01274/extension-reel-mini-2-way-15m/dp/PL16098 https://cpc.farnell.com/c/electrical-lighting/extension-leads-cable-reels I use their 8 ways and they are robust. https://cpc.farnell.com/brennenstuhl/1150613318/extension-skt-surge-8-way-anthracite/dp/PL13410

Yes. Put some sleeving or insulation tape over them and tie/velcro them out the way. The DC jack's outer metal part is at DC supply voltage and if it touches any 0V bits (pedal jacks, switches and cases) it will short circuit the power supply. This can knock out other pedals and make pops and splats. Could even damage a cheapo power supply.

Looks like the Ampeg pre output is low level (-10dB or less ? - not stated in the manual) and better suited to FX returns

Or use an active unbal to bal converter like the Sonifex RB-UL1, Alice MatchPack or cheapo Art CleanBox to make up the levels (if you fancy some DIY the Sonifex has loads or room to add two jack sockets parallel to the phonos in).

Hmmm.... with the RMX1850 you've got plenty of watts available, so it's a problem at the amp input or amp output. What cabling method are you using? This could be a cabling issue. I'd connect amp ch1 to one 8R cab and amp ch2 to the other 8R cab (the other option is the two cabs paralleled to 4R and connected to the amp in mono bridge mode - this will give max amp power). As to the amp inputs you've got the option of bal XLR, mono jack or screw terminals - as the preamp outs are unbal mono I'd go jack-to-jack to the amp's jack ins with two mono jack cables. If things are still not loud enough it's either the preamp's out is low level (-10dB?) or the power amp (at +3.5dB) is not very sensitive, (and/or speakers are low efficiency). If it is a case of low levels then you need to make up an extra 13.5dB approx - you could use a HPF (Broughton) or compressor (dbx 166xs, Drawmer DL241) between pre and power amps to make up the gain... or it might be cheaper to swap the power amp.

GK 700RB even has a tuner out jack on the front panel... MANUAL https://static1.squarespace.com/static/52d881e0e4b093afad1a2ae2/t/54a31083e4b01142025c9b56/1419972739424/700rb_1001rb.pdf

Use the amp's effect send into the tuner.