Bigguy2017

I have done a few bridge swaps and never noticed a big change in tone as such... There is a change in the envelope of notes with usually an increase in sustain. The really big change was on my Rickenbacker 4003 - this developed the common 'tail lift' , plus the equally common 'folding' of the body at the neck pickup route, which made it unplayable due to a very high action (even with saddles at max low and extra deep string grooves). I swapped it for the Hipshot replacement bridge (brass version to help with neck dive). This is a straight swap using the same screw holes. I flattened the uneven base with emery on a glass plate beforehand and it was a ten minute swap. The lower Hipshot allowed me to drop the action a lot. The difference was quite noticeable - ridiculous sustain - notes ceased to have a 'plucked' envelope and became almost constant like a bass pedal. Result, a massive improvement in playability, not really better 'tone' but certainly a different sound... (a chunk of foam under the strings helped return sustain to something useful). With 'classic' Jazz and P basses I think the BBOT gives a more traditional look and sound - with modern basses I like the Fender 007-000-5124 American Standard 2007 HMV Bass Bridge for ergonomics and function. I never got on with the huge Badass style bridges - mostly as they look crap. 😉 YMMV.

Loose earth somewhere or dead smoothing cap?

'kin 'ell, that's a beaut

So, the speaker output jack works into an external cab? Therefore signal must be present at the jack socket. Take a close look at the speaker out jack socket - if it's the switching type make sure the contacts are closing without a jack in place - push down on the contacts. Pull off the red + blk speaker spade connectors at the PCB end (LS1 + LS2) - with a DVM check for continuity to the speaker. If no DVM then put a AA battery across these terminals - speaker should click... I can't find a schematic for this combo - Ashdown will supply one I'm assume...

Short scale ?

Fender 7250 ?

Remove the valve and check the voltages on the valve socket - carefully... You're looking for +15 VDC on 6+8 (heaters) and +40 to +150 VDC (HT) on pin 4. You have tried another (known good?) valve... If voltages are there, clean and tighten the valve socket contacts (obvs. with power off and drained!) and have a good look for a cracked PCB trace around the valve socket. Measure the values of R2, R12, R13 and C6 - anything open circuit?

The knob is a collet knob. To remove the knob you have to spin the outer brass ring anticlockwise - use a pair of needle nose pliers in the two slots to get it loose. Once the collet is loose the knob will pull off. Then it's a normal pot with a nut + washer - use a spanner...

Nice... matching + contrasting.

Sizes I use are; Fender saddle height screws (Mex + MIJ) ------------------------------------------- M3 grub screws - cone (or cup / dome) point M3 x 10mm M3 x 12mm M3 x 16mm (1.5mm allen key) Fender USA ------------ 1/16" bass (6-32) 0.050" guitar (4-40) www.modelfixings.com (or similar supplier) M3 x 12mm MF-GS37S

Like franzbassist said, best is to buy a selection of screws in Long, Med, Short. Do the bass setup and when you're happy, replace the screws with ones of best length - keep the 'wrong uns' for later use. This plan works best when you have many basses using the same type of screws...

That looks all original spec for Japan.

Hmmm... that looks like the sheared off end of the truss rod

Most of the advertised 'P90 screws' are Jazz Bass / P Bass PuP screws at 2.6 or 2.8mm and don't fit many P90s - even though they are advertised as 'P90 screws'. Even the Hosco ones are 2.6mm x 40mm. 2.5mm x 38mm is the correct size ( I think) - I got some nickel ones from Armstrong Music https://www.armstrongmusic.co.uk/products/p90-pickup-mounting-screw-nickel-bag-of-4?variant=47225709199642

You can usually pry / pop out the hard foam liners with a 4" paint scraper or similar to access the ABS shell. I've had good results with glass fibre tape and epoxy - the trick is getting the broke bits back to where they belong and level. Any holes or missing pieces can be filled with epoxy or black Milliput - Plastikote satin black spray paint covers things nicely.

Yup, that 'aint no Fender.

Good spot - just ordered 2 x NYXL = £39.50 delivered

Just mount one of these on the rear cover plate - easy enough to drill + file the wee slot for USB-C JSADZKJ USB 2.0 Tyep C Panel Mount Cable 90 Degree Angle USB C Male to Female Extension CableUSB 2.0 Type C Cable with Panel Mount Screw for Laptop, Tablet, Mobile Phone 1ft/30cm: Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories

I do not know the specifics of this amp but general principles apply... Is this the same PJB model as attached .pdf schematic shows... ? First check 15VDC and 12VDC supply rails are AOK - they both have internal fuses (as does the other 12VDC battery supply). If you can unplug the power supply from the main board (plugin connectors?) will it power on now? Are all voltages present? If all DC volts are AOK then there's a problem on the main board; Look for burnt or discoloured components, leaking or swollen capacitors, bad solder joints or damaged PCB tracks. Have a sniff- any burnt electrics smell? pjb_phil_jones_bass_briefcase_sch.pdf

I used to change them after about 2-3 months, but since I started using D'Addario NYXL 45105 jobs they last a lot longer - still not feeling a need to change them after a year. They start out a little dull and don't get much duller.

Try a buffer pedal first in line The BrightOnion Micro Buffer Pedal, TC Electronic Bonafide or Fender Level Set are all small, inexpensive boxes

I'd replace the truss rod nut. Take the neck off, wind the nut fully out - you can cut a slot in it once it's proud of the wood. Replace with a nice new nut with a smear of grease. Is it a standard 3/16" allen key? If so it's a Fender #: 0038443000 nut