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Lfalex v1.1

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About Lfalex v1.1

  • Birthday 18/04/1973

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  1. Batteries in active basses generally die quite slowly. The first symptoms are usually a reduction in output level or slight distortion on big output peaks. A battery change later, and it's back to normal again. Many folks bulk buy Duracell/Energizer if they have many such basses to power. Rechargeables would seem to be the environmentally sound choice, but they don't hold as much charge as an alkaline battery, nor can they deliver as much peak current. This can leave the instrument sounding compressed and lifeless by comparison. I try to check my batteries for leaks fairly regularly. There's nothing worse than a battery that shares the control cavity with the EQ circuitry leaking all over your expensive electronics.
  2. Go for it. If it fails, sand it back and go again!
  3. Does it have the tuner holes already drilled? If not, the world is your oyster... If it isn't drilled, I'd go for something like the 'Ray headstock, as it's shorter and might give marginally better balance. Or really confused everyone and go 2+2 😄
  4. Shame there's only one colour choice, other than that minor gripe, it's all good.
  5. Lfalex v1.1


    I'm surprised that last one didn't have "Anthony" on it...
  6. I like Dr J's idea of getting a cheap P-body/spare scratchplate and modding that, even if only to give you a "test bed" for ideas. You could rout a bigger pickup cavity for the bridge pickup, giving you a choice of P, reverse P (as per your preference) J, Double J or MM. You could use the spare 'plate as a similar test-bed for electrics. I like Steve Browning's suggestion of VVT, but might go further and have stacked pots (sacrilege!) in the original holes and have VTVT.
  7. In all (semi) seriousness, I have an old Columbus fretless neck (with tuners) for home-defence. Reversed and held just above the nut, it's just the right length and has a nice heft to it... Hold on.. Heft is for cabinets and amps. 🙄
  8. (Assuming you're using fingerstyle using index and middle fingers) There's a technique "fix" for this that works equally well on 4,5 or 6 (never tried a 7) When playing strings higher than the lowest-pitched, (gently) rest your thumb against it enough to damp it. Use your third finger to damp the string physically above the one you're plucking and play up "through" that string into the one you're damping. Means you can dig into the "E" all you want. When it comes to the "B", simply move your thumb slightly, such that it no longer damps the string and pluck away. As for damping the thinner strings beneath where you're playing, that falls to your left hand if necessary. One negative of this technique is that your 3rd finger is always in use, and can't be deployed for 3 finger styles (like Gary Willis), but that's another whole technique itself.
  9. Can't comment on the Wal. More aggressive- Thumb More likely to stay on your lap when seated - Stingray
  10. This. Don't get a custom. I both of the customs I've owned were not good experiences and were sold on at a heavy loss in both cases. If you've got the temperament and patience to repeatedly return to your luthier of choice and bug them to fix what you hadn't noticed as being an issue in the excitement of "new instrument syndrome" six months earlier, then go right ahead. I've had a delaminating fretboard, poorly implemented electronics, pickups I ultimately didn't like and an inability to use strings I wanted coupled to difficulties getting the intonation right because of the bridge hardware. And I got so wrapped up in it all that I ordered a four, thinking it would be "enough". It wasn't. That was one of them. You can see where I'm coming from, I think... Whilst "production" instruments may not be as exclusive, their greater volume of manufacture means that any issues get thrashed out during R&D / prototyping.. Anyways, modern bass. Modern tone? Bags of clout and versatility? MusicMan Bongo. And keep the change!
  11. I hit the configurator for a Sacramento to specs I liked and ran up $2850 in the blink of an eye. Ok, I had; Chambered body, Zebrano top, vintage white rear body and an Ebony 'board But that's still very expensive..
  12. I've tried that on bass finishes before.. with "interesting" results. I was attempting to cut out some deep scratches in a red-stained flamed maple Warwick. It vaguely worked, but in the process altered the flattish finish to what Warwick would call "high-gloss" Expect a VERY slippery finish when complete!
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