bertbass

Straight from Shure themselves. [color=#4B4B4B]To ensure good diversity performance, space antennas apart by at least one-quarter of a wavelength (about 5 inches at 600 MHz). The receiver antennas should be angled apart in a wide “V” configuration, which provides better pickup when the transmitter is moving around and being held at different angles.[/color]

Too much effort!

While I love playing short scale basses, lighter, faster, great tone, as I play pretty hard, the E always seems floppy and goes sharp when hit, sorry plucked, and comes back in tune a second or so later. It you play lighter than I do then it will be fine.

Probably balsa wood then.

I searched for me and only found me! I must be unique!

I never, ever, ever have leads running across the stage, nothing to do with high heels, I don't want to trip over them. All leads always run round the edges of the stage and behind backline or across the front and taped down! I never have noise problems either.

I've done this many times when making a right handed neck left handed or in one case making and 8 string from a 4 string. My method is to cut off the bit you want to change make it perfectly flat and square, then do the same to the bit of wood that you want to add. Glue the 2 together and when the glue is dry, clean up and shape and finish as desired. Works great. I bought a box of maple offcuts on Ebay a few years ago and I've been working my way through that. Just re-read your post, do as above to both sides of the head making a paddle and then shape and finish as desired.

Go here, http://www.billfitzmaurice.com choose your design and buy the plans from bill. Not the most expensive in the world and you'll know that the cab will be one of the best that you could ever own.

We have it but never claimed on it. Needed it to get some gigs though.

I also had to sell mine through poverty. Wish I still had it though!

I want one! Bit lacking in the left handed department though.

[quote name='outsider70' timestamp='1503227035' post='3356534'] [url="https://youtu.be/GQVTtpE9J7s"]https://youtu.be/GQVTtpE9J7s[/url] Highway Star- Chickenfoot [/quote] +100

After I was forced to sell my 69er I built myself a 6x10. Not the lightest cab in the world, ceramic speakers, but very easy to move about. Sounds great and I can always hear what I'm playing. To move it I just lean it back and pull, rolls along nicely on the 2 large wheels underneath. I put a handy handle on the bottom so my band mates can help me up stairs as well. Handle on the top and a handle either side, covers all eventualities. I've put speakons on the back and also one on each side so that I can just push the cab against the wall and can always plug it in easily. We have a ramp to get the gear in the van and I can easily drag it in and into position. Looks quite business like as well. I think you'll be quite happy.

WD 40 is not a contact cleaner, it's a penetrating oil and lubricant. You need a can of Servisol which is a contact cleaner.

I thought that acrylic was the standard option with telex on request.

Only damage ever caused to our equipment is by our drummer. Not a lot we can do about that unless we sack the drummer. Now there's a thought!

40 - 50. Not bad as I'm getting on for 66.

Something like this? http://www.flightcasehardware.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=875

Blue speakers = better wood and built in Britain and black speakers = cheaper wood (chipboard) and not built in Britain. Probably in China. I've got a pair of Mag 4x10s and they sound fine but are a bit on the heavy side.

I'm not a great Mackie fan either.

I used Rotosound short scale strings when I had mine. I found it difficult to find anything else.

How about naming it Arthur?

Personally, I'd go with the acrylic. Hard wearing and if it gets chipped, very easy to touch up invisibly. Tolex always comes unstuck eventually along the joins regardless of make of equipment or type of glue. IMHO of course.

The wood used in the construction of a cab is not important it's how much the cab vibrates. The energy used to make the cab vibrate is wasted energy, energy that should be used to make sound. 18mm ply has become the norm for cab construction because it's easy to make and you don't have to worry about bracing but you end up with a heavy cabinet. MDF is better from a vibration point of view but is even heavier and easily damaged and absorbs water quite well. A concrete cabinet would be perfect but not very practical. If you can brace a cabinet well so that there is no vibration then you can have it all, a light cabinet made of thinner material that performs brilliantly. Bill Fitzmaurice and Alex at Barefaced have done just that and while personal preference in sound plays a large part in the decision on what to spend your money on, no one can disagree that their products are some of the best you can buy or make.

+1