All Activity

Slow market innit!

Don't know to be honest serial number: NB16171

10433

Bump

You're welcome, Dunc! GLWTS!

*sigh* Memories ☺️

Rog is an absolute gentleman and a thoroughly lovely human being! Deal with confidence folks x

I've been delaying this for some time, as I have really enjoyed owning this cabinet but the time has come to move it on. I have thrown my lot in with the LFSys Monza and owning two of them, I have 2 x 10" well covered. The specs are probably very well known on this forum and there are plenty of reviews on BC and elsewhere. The headlines are that it is a compact 2 x 10" cabinet weighing only 13 kilos (cloth grill version which this is), capable of handling 500 watts RMS and BF claim up to 800 watts clean. The cabinet has had the switch conversion so that it can operate at either 4 or 12 ohm. The full spec and current pricing can be found here on the Barefaced website: https://barefacedaudio.com/collections/10cr-bass-cabs/products/two_10?variant=12997201723450. Yep, to buy one new in this spec, with a cover, will cost you a tadge over £900! This cab has been gigged quite a lot but despite this it is pretty clean and everything works fine. There are a few marks in the Tolex, which I have photographed but none that have exposed the wood as far as I can see. The Tolex is just starting to peel on the back, as can be seen in the photographs. This is common on BF 10CR based cabs, as are problems with the feet, which are screwed directly into the thin ply. In the case of my cab, some over-enthusiastic "help" at a gig managed to dislodge one foot on the long side and bash another. This caused a little dent under one and some damage around the screw hole on the other. The downside of using 12mm ply to save weight, while screwing the feet directly into the wood, is that they are not very resistant to rough treatment. I have repaired the cab using a dowel in one case and internal 12mm ply reinforcement internally for both. I also decided that directly screwing the feet into the wood was going to lead to problems in the future, so I have used threaded captive nuts and machine screws for all four feet on the long side of the cab (see photos). They are now much more solid than they were originally and consequently more resistant to future damage. I have always used the cab in portrait mode and the feet on the bottom have not given any problems, so I have left them as they were. They are protected by the cover in any case, where as the feet on the long side are exposed in transit. While I was doing these modifications, I noticed that the screws, holding the switch and socket plate onto the cab, were also screwed directly into the ply and one of them didn't have much purchase. Again this seemed like a recipe for long term problems and possible cause of a buzz I was hearing from that area. I decided to use T-nuts and machine screws to secure the plate and replaced the gasket at the same time. It is now very secure and there is no hint of buzz. To get at the inside of the cab, to glue the ply reinforcement in place, it was necessary to remove the drivers. On reassembly, I replaced the driver mounting screws with new stainless steel Allen head machine screws. In my experience these are much more resistant to the heads getting mashed than the original pozidrive type screws. The original T-nuts were in good condition, so I left those as they were. I have priced the cab to take account of the above repairs, although in many ways I think they have actually improved on the original spec. Grab yourself a bargain at less than half the new price! I'm thinning the herd, so I am not looking for trades. You are welcome to come and try the cab (with a variety of heads) at my place in Fakenham. Tea/coffee and biscuits provided. I realise this might not work for many and I am sure I can find suitable packaging to post it at buyers expense. I will also meet up within a reasonable distance of Fakenham.

Thanks and having checked, the V2 has a pre-post switch for the DI out.