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Yup , works a treat ... I had a jazz bitsa with a rather weird layout scratchplate and it was white on white pear 😐 not for me ... wrapped it black worked a treat. From this To this

Henry Cow! Haven’t heard them since the 70s! Great band.

Arse Decade — David Bowie

We managed to earn enough off Spotify plays in one year to take the whole band out for a pizza, that, for me was as close to making it as I am ever going to get 😂

Especially tort.....🤣 Double sided tape is a good idea for trying / changing plates without lasting damage to a bass. As others have said this may not be the best if it isnt a poly finish. I used double sided tape on a Lull I had. Both looked good but I decided "why have a lovely quilt finish and then cover it with a £10 piece of plastic?" If you're just looking to protect the finish then one cheap alternative I use on the backs of all my basses is a screen protector (these) which I cut to shape. Dont buy the tempered ones....they just shatter when trying to cut.....guess how I know? I've also used it on the front of my old Ritter. The one in the photo had been used for quite a while so did show some lifting on the lower edge, but its easily replaced. The Lakland shows the protector on the back. I don't know if they would be OK on a nitro bass finish. Just a random thought....has anyone used vinyl wrap for a scratchplate?

I'm just tucking into a slice of cake to round off lunch... FYI, the way we sorted out the cost of the CostCo run was I charged the takings pro-rata for what was used (eg. 50% of the cost for half a cake having been scoffed) and the what was left remained mine (including the slice I've just had). A piece of cake, so to speak! There were a load of cups/plates/wooden cutlery left over, so they've got to @NancyJohnson's for future use; they now belong to the charity and will either appear at next year's event or other suitable activities.

While it can be possible to remove the stickiness using IPA, it will come back, and IME much sooner than a couple of years. It's a manufacturing defect with the plastic/rubber used and once the material has started to break down there is nothing that I know that will stop the process and cleaning off the stickiness just exposes new material that has already started to degrade. Ultimately the only permanent solution will be the replace the parts in question with something made out of a more stable material.

Also Georgie Born with Henry Cow in the 70s, she was coming from cello and I think she hadn't played bass before the band. Though that was on a short scale Dan Armstrong bass which would have been less stretchy for the left hand than a Fender.

Wouh! That looks awesome! I want the yellow one!

Fattie Bum Bum - Carl Malcolm

the 3rd party "rain" block you can add on that is cool

It'd be interesting to see smaller drivers in larger cabs, ie. is the bass response due to the cab size or the driver. There's also the question of isobarik loading - I think Orange did that in some cabs.

Scratchplates are evil.

Thanks for the explanation @jimbobothy!

Big Bottom - Spinal Tap

I'm watching an auction where someone has done this on a SD curlee but in such as a way as 'dogs breakfast' makes it sound better than it is: https://reverb.com/uk/item/86586914-sd-curlee-design-series-bass-mid-70-s-standard

Little Willy - Sweet

Just got a Zoom MS-70CDR, old model, in the door, that I bought used, but it is in mint condition and works perfectly, cause the one I had sucked tone. I use it as kind of super 8 band fully parametric EQ, kind of a budget Source Audio EQ2, as EQ based cab sim, which I found I prefer to IR based cab sims (and yes, I realize I am missing out on the real dynamic frequency response of a real cab, that IR based cab sims are capable of, but it sounds great). Here are my settings for a faux bass cab sim, in case anyone is interested (using 4 of the 2 band "Bass Para EQ" model in series): Freq: 20Hz - Q: 2 - dB: - 20 Freq: 70Hz - Q: 4 - dB: + 4 Freq: 1kHz - Q: 4 - dB: + 3 Freq: 1.2kHz - Q: 4 - dB: +1 Freq: 3.6kHz - Q: 2 - dB: +6 Freq: 12kHz - Q: 1 - dB: - 12 Freq: 16kHz - Q: 1 - dB: - 20 Freq: 20kHz - Q: 0.5 - dB: - 20 I should probably add that this is followed by a HPF with -3dB cut off point set at 40Hz (something this pedal do not feature, though one could use the "AC Bass Pre" model on the Zoom for this function only, and just set it flat otherwise, I believe the "Depth" parameter of this model set to a value of "9" essentially is a 40Hz HPF). And this is the pedal, in case you are not familiar with it (just a random Google photo of it, not my specific unit):

Clear nano tape?

One of the GB Modern's I briefly owned had a similar issue with Cort's (I think they make these in house) Markbass preamp - intermittent sound with a constantly draining battery leading to low volume and distortion. No visible shorts anywhere so assumed it was the preamp at fault. It's a very good pre when you get a working one with a sensible freq point for the bass control, I was originally intending to swap it out but kept it in there.