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I'm guessing Behringer aren't going to do the Lovetone flanger with the question mark on, that thing was nuts, a lot of fun.

Given there’s not much new in analogue electronics, and given we are in a topic about behringer …. I think that counts for lovetone as an original adaptation of an existing topology! Something like the 3leaf Photon is similarly a refined version to the point it becomes its own thing

Another awesome Ibbi finish ruined yet again by the truss rod adjuster and the patch of exposed neck at the end of the fretboard - I wish they wouldn't do that!

Loved the 2605 - I had one when they first came out, but in the end when I was cutting things down, I had the 1605 and the 2605 and the 1605 was my first love (and not so harsh) so it had to go

My new to me SR2605 in Cerulean Blue burst

Have a good one Dave. We’re lucky and have one just 5 miles down the road - a compact and bijou WMC. As were entering our dotage we tend to stick more locally when BST ends….yes we are sad and old 🤣plus at least that way there’s less chance I’ll push the old mini of doom through the hedges of a dark country lane 😂

I almost forgot the very best purchase of 2025 - A trolley which saves me carting amps and cabs around. Sadly, like a Dalek, it's still foiled by stairs! Perfect for when you're almost 56!

Aionfx's description of the PCB says "Unlike Lovetone’s later offerings, the Meatball was not a fully original circuit, but rather a heavily tweaked version of the very first commercial envelope filter pedal, the Mu-tron III. While the core circuit is the very similar, the Meatball adds several new features including a clean blend, attack/decay controls, two extra range modes in between Hi and Lo, two expression controls, and an effects loop."

So if you have a driver rated 600watts @8 ohms, does that mean you need to be using something like AWG 12, or 10?

That's one way of fogging the stage.

No problems dealing with Bob, so I'm happy to recommend.

WARNING NERDY CONTENT Yes, AWG16 (use of AWG is deprecated) is approximately equal to 1.3mm2 , you look on t’interweb, you will find many tables showing the current rating of flexible cable, and they can vary considerably. https://www.cablejoints.co.uk/upload/AWG--American-Wire-Gauge--To-Metric--Sqmm-Millimeters-Squared--Conversion-Table.pdf The reason is that many of them are quoting for different uses, high temperature, enclosed in conduit/trucking etc. These things reduce the current rating. In addition they usually quote for a single conductor, Free air or strapped to a cable tray, those perforated, overhead strips you can sometimes see in shops and factories. When using flexible copper cable to connect between an amplifier and a speaker remember that the cable ratings in these tables is continuous whereas a music everything is along away from continuous (of course most recordings from after the 80s do not qualify as Music). The other thing you need to remember when you’re looking at the cable current rating is that the power you can draw through a cable is determined by the impedance of the load. An 8 ohm load will draw twice the current of an 4 ohm load. So: Let’s take a cable rated at 6 amps. Power is current (squared) x Impedance. 6x6=36 then 36 x 8 = There 288 watts. For 4 ohms it is 36 x 4= 144 watts. The irony of that is many Jacks and plugs are rated at 5 amps or less. Finally the reason for using what seem like crazy large cables for speakers should not be looked at purely for current rating. Thicker cable means lower resistance (although cables exhibit some capacitance and inductance, they can be ignored) especially over short lengths). A cable that is too thin can consume some of your power, especially when running 4 ohms. Thin cable, what those across the pond call hook-up wire can have a resistance of 2 ohms per metre. Of course a 50cm, 2 core speaker cable has 1 metre of cable. So 100 watts of power into a 4 ohm speaker could lose up to 33+ watts in the cable leaving 66+ watts for your speaker. Go up to a 2.5 mm2 and you would lose less that 1/1000th of a watt at 100 watts. You must also remember that both the cable in the cab and cable between the amp and cab need to be added to give an accurate resistance/impedance figure.

I seemed to remember I played through an Ohm with two footswitches in a plastic housing, but I needed Google to help me. Here's what its AI Overview opined: "One user on an online forum did recall a specific, otherwise generic-looking bass amp that inexplicably had a built-in flanger, which might be the one you are thinking of." Right! We got our answer!

No, in this instance I meant Dan Coggins of Lovetone. If your question is meant to imply that Lovetone ripped off the Mu-Tron III, I’d add that the Meatball was far from a straight-up copy as it added lots of extra functionality not present on the Mu-Tron III. (I have also supported Mike Beigel by buying his own later incarnations (QTron, Micro-tron III and IV, and I’ll probably get the latest Mu-Tron III when funds allow).)

Happy to recommend Geoff. No messing about and easy to deal with.