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Phil Starr

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    Chard,Somerset

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  1. You are going to have to drop Seven Nation Army soon though
  2. I have to go out for a gig I'll get back to you soon but am happy to make talk through any problems you come across.
  3. You might find the RCF 310 would be ideal in that situation. I was using the Mk3 and I think you'd be fine but the Mk4 has full DSP and I imagine if you did push it too hard the limiting would cope quite gracefully. Any FRFR is going to give you more and clearer mids at ear level and that is what is going to help you most with monitoring.
  4. That's interesting Someone is selling a couple of them on BC, I wondered about an upgrade, they quote greater efficiency and maximum output so they must be using different drivers, the horn driver is definitely different. I think EBS freak is right though, ultimately its still a 10" speaker and there are limits if you want to use a single 10 as the sole source of bass for a decent sized room. I'm more optimistic about the bass drivers in quality PA speakers than Stevie, I've been looking at the RCF drive units as possibles in my own bass designs and they are as well specced as anything else at the price and with proven reliability. The requirements of putting bass through PA speakers is exactly the same as going through bass speakers and the units we have been using in our bass cab designs are 'general purpose bass drivers chosen for their specs and not specific 'bass guitar' drivers. As to plastic cabs, well it depends upon the plastic cab, just as it does the wooden cab. The density of the material, elasticity and self damping properties as well as the design of the bracing will all be important. My cheap Wharfedale Titans rattle like hell with bass guitar, the RCF's weigh a lot for plastic as do our QSC's and they have no problems. I'd guess there is more plastic, it's mineral loaded and a lot more care is taken over bracing.
  5. Light is like sound, on a log scale so there won't be half as much light again with 105W, but I am using the 70W lights. When you think that an 8W domestic led is rated as 100W equivalent then think of these as being rather like the old 500W floodlights, not really a domestic item. Obviously the 70W rating is with all the leds lit so a single colour won't be as bright but even so you really can't see much with one of these a few feet away shining straight at you.
  6. I have a couple of static versions of these, branded QTX. They chuck out a hell of a lot of light, actually a problem as I can't find a way of fading them other than as static colours and I've had performers complaining. they seem well enough made but nonetheless I've lost some of the bulbs in one of the lights on one colour only. I'll investigate but they are only a couple of months old. The wide wash is useful, too many of the cheapies have a very narrow beam. I need to get my DMX sorted but running lights sound and playing bass at the same time.....
  7. I forgot to put my bass amp in the car for last nights rehearsal. I'd taken along a single RCF 310A Mk3 as sometimes the band don't take the PA and we use those as vocal monitors. It was the only easy way of amplifying my bass so I used that instead as the rehearsal room was an hour's round trip away from the amp. The 310 was a revelation, not the sound because I use it for bass duties in my duo but that it was working so well within it's limits. I tuned the thing right up to see if it would be loud enough and ended up backing it right down. They claim 127db so even if you discount that by 6db it should have been enough, and it was. Our drummer is pretty loud and even though he was not really pushing it in rehearsal I thought we were not far off gig level for many bands. Given the levels in reserve I'm wondering just how far I could push it . The tone controls on the bass were set flat and I prefer not to have too much bass but I was surprised at just how well this little thing coped. I know skidder65203 has just upgraded his 310 to a 315 but his band are seriously loud, for most of us would a single 10 do? I'm going to have to try this at a gig I guess. That's quite a serious combo for £255
  8. This is what I found with my MB Tube, easing back the input gain and then a little more gain on the master volume cleaned the sound right up for me. Looking at mine now the input gain is right down to the 9.00 o'clock position, there is a lot of gain in those early stages. That may solve your problem
  9. Hi Graham. You really aren't going to find much difference you know. Moving from 500-800W is only a 2dB shift in volume, the same for a 300-500W change which is what you'd get at 8ohms. Doubling up your speaker with the same amp would give you 5dB increase in volume. To make sense of this 1db is a just noticeable increase in volume. That is you'd notice it if you suddenly switched up that amount but in normal use you probably wouldn't notice. 3db is about where you would notice in practice and you need to double the power to get that using the same speaker and just changing the amp. Barefaced claim 97db/W sensitivity for the SC so with 300W that is a max of 122db with your amp. That's loud enough to match just about any drummer and to permanently damage your hearing. If your amp/speaker combination is distorting then you might find it worthwhile to find out why. I know with my MB amp it is relatively easy to get the input stages to overload, turning down the input volume and turning up the master will clear this problem. Using an HPF will reduce subsonics getting into the amp/speaker and overloading things and using a lot of bass boost make that worse, what does your eq look like? Then you could also use a limiter or some compression, that would enable you to raise the average volume but just cut out those millisecond peaks that cause the problems. When the sound reaches a certain level the pursuit of more power just stops looking like a good idea, there may be a cheaper and more convenient solution.
  10. That's true, they are really helpful and I know people here have used those designs. Unfortunately other manufacturers aren't so helpful so comparisons with the other ranges isn't covered. I guess that's the advantage of having a stable range of products. One up for the USA.
  11. I've just weighed the 30l easy build and with a beyma fitted it's 11.4 kg. If you fitted the faital 320 it would save you around 1.9kg so 9.5kg and you might be able to save a further kg using poplar ply. If you got it down to 8.5 kg that would only be a kg more than the Barefaced One 10. It would be 2-3db louder too. So is it the size that concerns you? There aren't any definitive guides to drivers out there and that's why a group of us have been designing things on here on BassChat, it gives you the chance to build something with a high probability of success with a tested design. Designing speakers is not rocket science and there is all the information you need out there but it does involve a lot of knowledge. If you are looking for smaller than the 30l cab then you are probably going to be limited to a single 10. If that's what you absolutely want I'm sure people on BC would help you with that design process.
  12. Is this nominative determinism? How light are you thinking? The long thread on Stevie's 1x12 design will give you a lightweight cab at about 14kg, that's not in Barefaced 1x10 category but it's an easy one hand carry. Alternatively you could use the Faital neo driver Stevie used in the 'Easy Build' 1x12 that I designed. that would not just be lighter but crucially would be an easier carry because it is so small. if you used poplar ply I reckon you could come in just under 10kg.
  13. Just broken my normal gigging amp so am back to my spare, Hartke HA3500. My goodness it's a good sounding amp and the tone control options are second to one, don't worry about the power either even into 8ohms it's way louder than I need to match the rest of the band. Mind you those Peaveys are good, I don't think you can go wrong here.
  14. That's probably why I'm still using the Mark1 cab. It covers up a lot of sins.
  15. Reading through this I think a PA monitor could be right for you too this would be my pick at £300 https://www.thomann.de/gb/rcf_art_312_a_mk_iv.htm#bewertung Having said that I've used a really old Hartke kickback 10 for this purpose, you have to filter out a little bass with the tone controls but I found it perfectly adequate.
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