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Jolltax's Achievements


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  1. I also used to use direct monitoring for the same reason (horrible latency) but (on my PC) I eventually worked out how to solve the latency issue by ensuring I was using the right ASIO driver and adjusting the buffer settings in the software. The main advantage really is that you can then use all the software pedals, emulators and effects in your DAW which is kind of cool, and of course you can record directly into the DAW if you are composing (not something I do) I'm sorry I wouldn't know where to start on an Apple computer but my guess is its probably solvable in the software if you know how. Anyway, hopefully my pre-amp / Zoom thing will hopefully give my JB a bit more juice plus a few cool options J
  2. Not silly at all. I can use direct monitoring but my current Focusrite interface doesn't have a blend knob it just has a switch i.e. 100% raw signal. Using it means I also can't apply any effects in my DAW - unless I use 'Direct' when the audio comes via USB to the PC it is already mixed I do also however have another audio interface (a Behringer) which does have a blend knob - it still means I can't apply any effects. I was thinking the same thing and almost pushed the button on this as I know its a bargain, after a lot of thought (and googling) I decided to instead buy a Zoom B1 four and try that, its a bit more expensive but for a first pedal it has a few other very cool features (tuner, looper, drum samples). Something like this look right? I really appreciate all the helpful replies, thanks so much! I'll let you know how it goes if the DPD guy ever finds my house (this is a bit of a lottery) J
  3. Love it, no issues in Vivaldi here, so much better on the eyes Thank you!
  4. I am looking for a bit of advice on solving a problem with the output of my Harley Benton Jazz Bass when playing via my Focusrite audio interface into my computer. Been learning for a few months now, I have two basses - A Sire Marcus Miller M2 and a Harley Benton JB-75, I tend to alternate between them on a daily basis when practicing and enjoy them both. I practice almost exclusively wearing headphones and using my audio interface as it minimises the disturbance to others in the house. I cable straight from the bass into the audio interface input. I find that my Sire, which has is active and presumably has plenty of output has no issue playing this way and I can boost the volume relative to my other sources on my PC without distortion using the gain on my Audio Interface. My HB jazz bass is a different story, what ever my Focusrite audio interface has under the bonnet seems unable to boost the signal enough and starts to distort in a horrible way when I turn up the gain and with the volume on the bass at max. My 'out-loud' setup with a Warwick Gnome i Pro amp and homemade speaker has no issues with either, the amp doesn't appear to have a pre-amp out unfortunately. The Jazz bass also seem noisy compared to my Sire, but I have read this is not unexpected with a passive bass. Would I be correct in assuming that the Audio Interface just doesn't have enough juice to lift the signal from the passive bass without distortion? As a potential solution I have been looking at bass pre-amps like the Aguilar Tone Hammer and wondering whether they would be a good potential solution, although very cool it seems expensive (for someone at my stage anyway!)- maybe something second hand would be an option? Has anyone else encountered this issue and what would people recommend as solutions? I got the input switched to 'Inst' and I usually use a DAW on the PC (to add effects or whatever) and listen via the headphones, it works out really well for playing along with YouTube etc Cheers! J
  5. Just for completeness I thought I would post a picture of mine finished ... ish. I have never actually been able to play out loud since I started learning in February and have always used headphones and my audio interface, I completed most of the build a while ago but wasn't able to try it out until my amplifier arrived a few days ago (I ordered a Warwick head unit which took 4 weeks to arrive). The build quality / finish of my cabinet is not that fantastic as I am not really a 'detail' guy but its certainly sturdy, e.g. I just bought a can of black paint and went mental on it and there's a few sharp bits. Obviously I don't have any reference for comparison but for my small room it is very loud and I had to turn everything down a lot (I think I am on the lowest volume the amp will turn down to) , my left ear is still recovering from the test, lol. Its also interesting, playing through a speaker seems a lot more forgiving, I sound better out loud than I do through headphones! Overall I am pretty happy, I don't know how it would compare with an off-the-shelf unit but I enjoyed the build process and learnt some stuff. Thank you to the peeps in this thread who provided the design and the guidance, much appreciated. 😎 J
  6. PLease could I just clarify a couple of things on wiring the crossover and the speaker internals : Is it correct to wire the speakers in parallel from the input connector with the crossover just to to the HF speaker, as they are both 8 Ohms in parallel will the speaker then be 4 Ohms? The connector thing I got for the back panel has two sets of connectors 1+ 1- and 2+ 2-, does it matter which ones I connect to or does the amp drive both? Thanks in advance J
  7. More dumb questions! Went to my carpet place to get underfelt and they say they don't really use felt any more but have this stuff they use when they are installing underfloor insulation? Do I need to extend the length of my tubey port thing, what does a baffle brace look like? Its sunny today so I'm off outside to start cutting holes and stuff! J
  8. The sun came out for long enough for me to get a bit done, so I built a boxy type thing, still need to put in the braces which are cut but not yet installed, I am just letting it dry overnight with the front and back bits in. Its not as straight as I would like because some of the plywood I bought was a bit warped but it will work OK, I ploughed on regardless, I also didn't use quite the right baton, mine is slightly bigger and I couldn't wait for it to be in stock.. I am planning to line it with some carpet I got left over unless I can find some underlay. Did I mention I am somewhat of a bodger? I also got an order of bits and pieces to fit to it from Aran, I am such a dumbass I didn't realise that the ME10 thing wasn't actually the tweeter (although it did seem quite cheap), Celestion CDX1-1070 added to the parts list I haven't bought the drivers yet because I will need to wait for next month, especially now I know I need 2. I also won't be able to actually hear it until I buy a head amp, I like the look of Warwick gnome. Enjoying myself, if it works it will be a bonus .... 😎
  9. OK, I got the wood, I am working on a parts list for the other stuff so I can place orders, looking back in the thread I wasn't exactly clear on the tweeter is it right? : Celestion PULSE 10 10" 200 watt 8ohm Bass Guitar Speaker B&C ME10 1inch Throat Horn 90 x 60 Dispersion Monacor MBR-100 100mm Bass Reflex Tuning Port Tube Case/Speaker Cabinet Feet 38mm x 15mm Connector Dish with 2 x NL4MP Speakons and Terminal Block Plastic case/speaker/cabinet stacking corner Convair Air Cored Inductor 0.13mH 38mm OD 0.9mm wire Crossover Capacitor Metallised Polypropylene 2.2uF 250V (Narrow) Cement Resistor SQZ 10W 4.7 Ohm (PCB Mount) Some questions : Electrical components : couldn't find an exact inductor so got one close - will this be OK? I've got some chocolate block I can use for the 'solderless' version or I might solder it onto a board, haven't decided yet Could someone explain in a little bit more detail how each speaker is connected to the crossover, it looks like the 10" is directly connected to the amplifier and the crossover circuit is connected only to the tweeter is that right? Also the wiring diagram show a 1W (2.8V rms) power amp, which I was a bit confused about - do I need to worry about this? Could I use carpet instead to muffle the enclosure? I already have some I could use, I could line the enclosure with it As long as its sturdy I am not really worried about the cosmetics so I might not paint it but will try and find a speaker grill to protect the driver at some point. Cheers! J
  10. Thanks so much for your reply @Phil Starr, I have a load more questions about the build but first I think I will bang together the box before asking about the speakery stuff. I'm gonna head down to my local wood store and get some stuff cut. I will have loads more dumb questions once its done and before I order the bits. I don't have anywhere to build / wood work inside so in my case progress is at least somewhat dependant on having some better weather! J
  11. I am a beginner (bass player!) and want to get an amp / cab (currently I just play to headphones through an audio interface), I happen to be able to solder and am fairly comfortable banging bits of wood together so want to give this a try as it seems like a fun project. Have downloaded the drawings and have some noob questions : Can you confirm the crossover and tweeter are optional? i.e. I can just build with a 10" driver and add the tweeter and crossover later if I want. I have also been reading the thread and watching the video about the 1 x 12" cab which seems very similar, would this one be more suitable for home use / practice? What would I need to drive this, I don't have any kind of amplifier, is there cheapo option? Harley Benton do the Block -300B, would that do it? Carpentry question : do you predrill holes before screwing, I always tend to do this with other stuff as it tends to stop the wood splintering / cracking. It kind of looked like in the video Phil Starr had pre-drilled because of the way he inserted the screws but wanted to check I'm a bit unclear on whether its a good idea to put wool or other padding inside the enclosure Cheers J
  12. Quick update and thank you, I got my HB JB-75 yesterday : Very exciting, I used it for my online lesson last night, needs a few tweaks (bit buzzy) but in general plays very nicely and importantly seems very sturdy and well made (considering the price) so should be good to travel with and stand up to a bit of rough treatment. I am also sort-of relieved that it is not as nicely made or to play as my Sire, which is a relief as it was quite a bit more expensive. I think its an absolute bargain and it seems to sound pretty good, its churlish to complain for the price. I also ordered the Sustaiin neck bolts from Amazon which I will fit, after measuring the screws currently in position based on your advice I think it will be a good way of taking the neck on and off for travel ! EDIT : One thing people people say which I would observe appears to be true is that it seems HEAVY. Obviously I don't have a lot of experience of other basses but its waaay heavier than my Sire I also bought an audio interface to use with it while I am away : Jolltax
  13. As a newbie this is very useful advice, I am getting the strong impression to go with a small collection of selected proper tools, I was a bit naïve thinking things might have been standardised! Appreciate the comments J
  14. Hi, Ideally I need a small tool I can keep while travelling that will enable me to do basic maintenance like truss rod adjustment, tuner nuts, neck removal etc I see this one on Amazon but I don't trust Amazon reviews, what would people recommend as a 'throw in a travel bag' option?
  15. Pushed the button on a Harley Benton JB 75 SB (the sunburst one with the black inlays), I am quite excited, I will definitely get some Neck bolts and the plan will be to remove the neck for transportation and hopefully fit it in a suitcase for travel. I also like the idea that it has potential for future upgrades as well but for the time being I'll just be practicing with it. Thanks very much to everyone who offered advice in this thread, everyones time was much appreciated.
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