martthebass Posted 11 hours ago Posted 11 hours ago (edited) Just coming from the Short Scale Bass appreciation thread and noticed some comments coming up regarding roasted necks and stability of roasted, caramelised and standard necks. Rather than hijack that thread I thought a separate thread to discuss might be beneficial. For myself I've got 2 basses with roasted necks (EBMM DarkRay and EBMM Shorty Ray), 1 bass with a graphite neck (Status CW-1) and one with a standard maple neck. Of these the most stable is the Status (no surprise there), which was adjusted when I bought it over 4 years ago and never touched since, the next are the Sandberg and the DarkRay which I've tweaked twice in the last year and the worst is the shorty Ray which seems to move a little bit from month to month. A small sample group but not seeing a major difference which makes me think there are a number of factors at play.... Edited 11 hours ago by martthebass 1 Quote
LeftyJ Posted 10 hours ago Posted 10 hours ago I have no basses or guitars with roasted necks, but I do have 2 cents about Music Man necks moving: I had a Stingray 5 which was very susceptible to changes in humidity, and would move quite a bit with the change of the seasons, but it got a LOT more stable when I had the neck re-waxed by my favourite luthier. The Music Man necks are oiled / waxed rather than lacquered, which should seal the wood just the same against humidity, but unlike lacquer an oiled / waxed neck does require regular maintenance. 2 Quote
tubbybloke68 Posted 6 hours ago Posted 6 hours ago My stingray neck needs adjustment quite often, it’s roasted (pretty sure anyway) . It’s one of the later ones, charcoal sparkle, yet my USA Sterling is very stable and a fair bit older. They’re both stored in the same room in the house too. X Quote
Geek99 Posted 6 hours ago Posted 6 hours ago @tubbybloke68 ”made in USA” equals “magic wood. “ ✨🦄 Quote
Twigman Posted 5 hours ago Posted 5 hours ago My EBMM USA Sterling has a 'normal' oiled neck and never needs tweaking. I only ever need to adjust the tuning when I change the strings! 1 Quote
Beedster Posted 5 hours ago Posted 5 hours ago I've had cheap necks that have been perfect and never needed a tweak, and expensive necks that were always slightly out. While of course quality materials and high standards of manufacture are protective, there's always going to be the odd bit of temperamental wood that gets through the process, and I guess it's possible that various treatments - roasted etc - might lower the risk os those that do being a complete PITA. But on the whole, if you keep your necks in fairLy consistent humidity and temperature, and don't change string tension or gauge too often, you really shouldn't have to touch your necks very often once set up. 2 Quote
martthebass Posted 5 hours ago Author Posted 5 hours ago 19 minutes ago, Beedster said: But on the whole, if you keep your necks in fairLy consistent humidity and temperature, and don't change string tension or gauge too often, you really shouldn't have to touch your necks very often once set up. I wish that was always the case Chris 😞 1 Quote
Beedster Posted 5 hours ago Posted 5 hours ago 1 minute ago, martthebass said: I wish that was always the case Chris 😞 It's been my experience, perhaps I've either been lucky or have lower standards Quote
Sean Posted 1 hour ago Posted 1 hour ago My tip of the day is... Keep the truss covers removed. I'm always adjusting truss rods, 1/8th of a turn here, tiny tweak there. Quote
cocco Posted 1 hour ago Posted 1 hour ago I have two basses with roasted maple necks, a stingray special, and a parts P bass with a neck made by Shuker. I've had the stingray for a couple of months, (it's a 2020 build) and the P bass since January (the neck was made this time last year). The stingray needed a neck tweak when the seasons changed not so long ago, only about 1/4 turn, but the shuker neck hasn't budged at all. Quote
tauzero Posted 56 minutes ago Posted 56 minutes ago 45 minutes ago, Sean said: My tip of the day is... Keep the truss covers removed. I'm always adjusting truss rods, 1/8th of a turn here, tiny tweak there. Even easier, have headless basses with the truss rod adjuster exposed at the unheadstock end (Sei, Hohner). Quote
LawrenceH Posted 40 minutes ago Posted 40 minutes ago 9 hours ago, LeftyJ said: The Music Man necks are oiled / waxed rather than lacquered, which should seal the wood just the same against humidity, but unlike lacquer an oiled / waxed neck does require regular maintenance. Based on a sample size of one MM Stingray versus numerous lacquered Fenders, I think there's something in this. With the addition that oiled finishes are typically touted as 'breathable' whereas polyurethanes are far less so. The 'ray is lovely but it does drift with the seasons, the Fenders do not. I also have a maple parquet floor that has been oiled and the pieces move loads with humidity. It's an inherently unstable timber Quote
Stub Mandrel Posted 26 minutes ago Posted 26 minutes ago I suspect it's got most to do with the individual properties of the bit if wood in question. Regardless of cut or roasting, wood is far more variable than carbon fibre. Some basses need a half turn in winter and summer, some don't. Quote
itu Posted just now Posted just now 30 minutes ago, LawrenceH said: I also have a maple parquet floor that has been oiled and the pieces move loads with humidity. It's an inherently unstable timber A floor is one big unit. The comparison between a tiny neck and an acre of maple is not fair. A carpenter told me that any wooden floor moves, no matter if it's oiled, painted, or lacquered. It should float, or it can be attached from one side, but it moves a lot. I've had necks that need a tiny bit of adjusting in spring and autumn, like the original Affirma fretted 4, but not the fretless 5. My basses with carbon necks are stable round the year. Quote
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