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C is not for compact, but lithium. Codes come from IEC. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Button_cell See: Electrochemical system

By the way: CR2032 = - C = lithium cell - R = round - diameter 20 mm - 3.2 mm thick I do carry an extra cable (for the g-word player), set of strings, batteries (9 V), tuner/metronome, and some small tools. If the strap could break, I could sit, etc.

Your ticket to sound heaven without dead spots. This may not seem cheap, but the sound speaks for itself. Neck is shallow from front to back. The bartolinis are mated to an active signal chain. Humbucker, single coil, you name it.

Please, keep violin, viola, and cello out of our area. They do not belong to gamba family. Know your ancestors! Sometimes I have seen the use of "a guxxxx bass, sorry about this offensive word, a g-word bass", but I just do not like it myself. Bass is a bass, it is not a g-word. I find that as a diminutive to our honorable instrument. A double/contra/upright bass, an electric upright, an electric bass, an acoustic bass. That's it. A bassist or a bass player, both are fine.

Gauge is directly related to tension, when comparing similarly built (same brand and type) strings. I am sorry, I just do not understand your comment. The D'Addario guide is very helpful when building certain tension sets. I once built a 5 string set that was in fourths but starting from low C. Technically the set worked very well, but my head did not get it (where is my E now?). I am an old dog who does not even seem to learn the old stuff.

Glockenklang Soul. There are also boxes with adjustable inputs.

By the way, as I have that HPF2, I would modify it to be a tool adjustable unit. The pots tend to move while carrying the stuff around, and the settings are of set-and-forget type. Smaller box would be easier to add on top of other equipment. Waiting to see your solution, and maybe few extra PCBs, too...

No worries, mate. In that case you may build a set of your own or use a low tuning set, or use a 5-string set's 4 lowest. My choice would be to build a set on paper and then find a set that is closest to your study and preference (or buy single strings). 5-string sets tend to be quite pricey. https://m.thomann.de/gb/miscellaneous_strings_for_bass.html

I will copy the results from: http://www.daddario.com/upload/tension_chart_13934.pdf It does not matter that you are using some other manufacturer. These numbers are good approximations and give you the direction. Page 10, Nickel plated roundwound: XLB 100 - 36.5 lbs (E), 23.0 lbs (C) tuning down to C, but having the same tension - 32.0 lbs (XLB120), 35.2 lbs (XLB125), 38.6 (XLB130) Now if you want to tune constantly between E and C, your choices are far more limited. My suggestion might be 110 (tension varies between 46.2 and 29.1). Is it a must to tune the instrument back and forth? Could you just tune the bass to certain tuning and keep it that way?

One of my favourite bass monitors is Genelec 1032A. Lows were deep, although the loudness was modest. Price may be on the higher side, but quality costs.

One suggestion: https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2015/01/hpf-technology-hpf-pre-2.html?m=1

Even though the body wood is light in weight, I still think that from acoustics point of view the stiffness is the main factor, not weight. Neck has to be stiff, and all connections between parts tight. Any loose or soft part or place is very bad to the sound.

The material does not have to be low density at all. If you do some search, you may see exotic wood chopping and carving under the top.

Someone said a while ago, that exotic boutique instruments are at the moment various and relatively cheap. On the other hand low quality Fenders have hefty price tags, thanks to Nirvana et al. If you are sure that 5 is your thing, go for it and take some time to get used to that fifth element. Remember that the string spacing may be different and there are several longer scale instruments in 5's and up. 35" is pretty common.

I had quite a lot of sound issues with my Modulus Graphite. Pickups are bartolini humbuckers. It was not the electronics, nor the bass. Several string sets and individual strings later I found that .125 as a B is good. It acts the same way as the rest of the set (SS 40-100). Others did not. I think I had .135, .130, and few others including coated strings, too, but no. Remember, that string works in this particular bass. You need to do some work to find your Grail. By the way, no dead spots... something you can not achieve with a Fender.