itu

Well, the parts of the MIM and USA models are built in Mexico, and the USA model has been put together in USA. I am sorry, quality and Fender are not synonyms in my unabridged dictionary. Suhr et al. is another story.

It is probable that your budget leads you to a decent instrument. If you want a light playing bass, put some less to the actual bass and take it to someone who is able to do a good setup. Try light strings, like 40 - 95; I am using SS RW strings in my fretlesses, too. Flats are really flat to my taste, but if you want to play that Motown stuff, they are functional.

I think that the system excludes strings in the process, so you shouldn't be worried. After getting your instrument back you should restring it with a fresh set.

https://thebassgallery.com/products/music-man-stingray-fretless-1979-ex-pino-palladino £5000 https://thebassgallery.com/search?q=palladino

We need to let go... no, eh, I removed the T, too.

The backside should tell you about the supply. From the link I checked: Mains 100 - 240 VAC. https://www.tcelectronic.com/product.html?modelCode=P0CIU If your amp tells the same, you do not need any converter, just a suitable cable.

VDR = voltage dependent resistor. Used for slow start of the electrical units. It cuts the current peak when the cold unit is started. The white part could be a resistor or rather, a capacitor. You need to check the numbers and codes. Because the unit has failed, it is reasonable to study the surroundings very well and thoroughly. Power failure may be just a part or two, but a DC connected system may die down to the power and preamp. Please consult some tce accredited repair company. Just in case.

You can pair nearly any preamp with your pickups. With East you can not go wrong. I would still fiddle with the original preamp. Be adventurous. As others have already told this, bright comes from a set of SS RW. Nickel gives more middle and flats, well, they sound dead.

You want and you can do whatever you like from Legos! That probably is not the most lightweight instrument around.

Pots can affect high frequencies, but not so much of the middle and the lows. If you remove all pots, the pickup can push out slightly more. If you use two pickups in one "passive" circuitry, they affect each other. You can separate them using battery powered buffers (Noll Mixpot or similar).

One part of the cost is that although the replacement is cheap (soldering + the pot itself), the dismantling and putting everything back takes quite a lot of time. If you have time and can keep everything in order, the replacement is something you might do yourself. I still point out that please be careful if you are not that familiar with electronics. Every cable has to be inside the box, do not tighten any cable between case parts. Bending PCBA or braking any component can lead to an unrepairable unit.

MN is the blend type. Center detent, cut tracks... made by Bourns, available in 250 k and 500 k versions. A can be audio/logarithmic, but also linear. There are no standardized markings on pots. You just need to measure the pot and then hunt for a replacement. https://eepower.com/resistor-guide/resistor-types/potentiometer/#