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Things that can be nippy on basses!


andy67

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Thought I'd add this thread to see what nipped folks about basses?

 

I have a rather lovely Spector Euro LT4 in violin burst, it is gorgeous and sounds amazing due to the Darkglass preamp and Bartolini pups, BUT ... the top horn is not inline with the 12th fret and it throws me off! Coupled with that is the stupid location of the rear strap button! I've gone back to using my trusted and familiar US P. 

 

Auld moaning git no1 - Andy

 

PS, happy new year y'all :D 

 

 

Edited by andy67
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I bought my first Hohner B2 in the mid-80s, and initially had a problem putting my hand on the right place on the neck - I attributed this to the visual cue of the headstock which I was used to. I got used to it though. That went in 1988, and it was many years before I got another headless. However, when I did, I had no problem with hand placement. I later bought another Hohner B2AV to use as a spare. I hardly ever played it, but I took it out to an open mic night a few weeks ago and had exactly the same problem with hand positioning as I had first time round. Seeing as I play headless basses almost all the time now, my conclusion is that it's the way that it hangs due to the absence of a top horn that does it, not the headlessness.

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Found the same on my Spector, and I’m not very vertically gifted (5ft 9) so the 35” scale, top horn not being around the 12th fret and the small body made it feel like I was playing a bass that was way too big for me. Swapped it for a Stingray 5 (albeit with a 34” scale) and it feels like home again. The Spector’s B string was spectacular though, I just had the wrong body shape for it! 
 

Worst experience I’ve had of this was with a beautiful Mayones Victorious I had in lockdown. Stunning bass, beautifully made and a real work of art, but it gave me the most horrific shoulder ache. Couldn’t understand why until I plotted out on a mirror where my hand, elbow and shoulder were and compared it to when playing a Fender Jazz. My left arm was fully extended when fretting the first fret of the Mayones. Literally couldn’t go any further. Swapped it for a jazz many moons ago! 
 

I need basses for short fat people 🤷🏼‍♂️ 

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1 hour ago, tauzero said:

I bought my first Hohner B2 in the mid-80s, and initially had a problem putting my hand on the right place on the neck - I attributed this to the visual cue of the headstock which I was used to. I got used to it though. That went in 1988, and it was many years before I got another headless. However, when I did, I had no problem with hand placement. I later bought another Hohner B2AV to use as a spare. I hardly ever played it, but I took it out to an open mic night a few weeks ago and had exactly the same problem with hand positioning as I had first time round. Seeing as I play headless basses almost all the time now, my conclusion is that it's the way that it hangs due to the absence of a top horn that does it, not the headlessness.

 

I had a B2a fretless in the 80s which had the first side dot marker on the 4th fret instead of the 3rd.

Experimented with tuning a half step down and playing the "non dots" - neither worked. Ended up paying a geeetarist to remark the side dots.

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There have been no negatives in any my basses. . . . however, my last 2 basses had to be sold due to their weight.

 

I seem to be on a downward curve where x = age and y = weight!

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I had a Warwick Rockbass Corvette, one the early ones with the one piece bridge.

 

I didn't have it long enough to figure out why but the way it hung on the strap the first fret felt a million miles away. That and a neck that was as thick as 2 baseball bats tied together made it the most awful and uncomfortable bass I've ever owned.

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16 hours ago, tauzero said:

I bought my first Hohner B2 in the mid-80s, and initially had a problem putting my hand on the right place on the neck - I attributed this to the visual cue of the headstock which I was used to. I got used to it though. That went in 1988, and it was many years before I got another headless. However, when I did, I had no problem with hand placement. I later bought another Hohner B2AV to use as a spare. I hardly ever played it, but I took it out to an open mic night a few weeks ago and had exactly the same problem with hand positioning as I had first time round. Seeing as I play headless basses almost all the time now, my conclusion is that it's the way that it hangs due to the absence of a top horn that does it, not the headlessness.

I had exactly the same problem with my Hohner B2A. I ended up selling it due to this, which was a shame

as otherwise I really liked it. I only later found out that there were brackets available ( which were originally 

designed for Stenbergers I believe) that when fitted moved the strap button making the bass bass hang

in a better position on the strap. Read about them on here too, called them ‘Strap hooks’.

 

 

IMG_0206.webp

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The 12th fret phenomenon... and nobody has mentioned the Warwick Thumb; now that is a position thrower!  :)

 

re. the Steinberger hook - Ned used that to great effect on his collaboration with John Bolin on the original NS bass.  The best bit is that it is designed to swing/fold away so that it doesn't get in the way when not in use on a strap.  

 

image.png.12e361653dfc064d26bd8af259ecd79a.png

 

image.thumb.png.03f9c799114edbe40b82413182506220.png

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I’ve owned a few basses with smaller bodies - I always end up achy. Ergonomically wrong for me.

 

Ive persevered with Spectors (I’ve owned 3 now) because I love how they look and sound…but the smaller shape kills me.

 

Same with 30-32” basses - A kingbass being the most prominent one I’ve owned - adored the thing, loved owning something so evidently special…but due to headstock being absent and little double cut shape…I’d come away from rehearsals with my right shoulder buggered.

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44 minutes ago, warwickhunt said:

The 12th fret phenomenon... and nobody has mentioned the Warwick Thumb; now that is a position thrower!  :)

 

I actually traded the B2 (and a P) in order to buy a Warwick Thumb which I still have. I don't remember having the same issues with the Thumb, although that could have been because by then I'd got used to the B2.

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I think it's more to do with the other side, the position of the bridge. I had a PRS EB which felt like a short scale, despite being 34" scale and the horns weren't long at all. After really investigating, I thought it was because the bridge was right against the derrière of the body, which brought everything towards me. The bridges on Spectors and Warwicks are several inches deep into the body, which sends everything away to the left. The Sarzo Spector is utterly ludicrous in this regard.

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6 minutes ago, Doctor J said:

I think it's more to do with the other side, the position of the bridge. I had a PRS EB which felt like a short scale, despite being 34" scale and the horns weren't long at all. After really investigating, I thought it was because the bridge was right against the derrière of the body, which brought everything towards me. The bridges on Spectors and Warwicks are several inches deep into the body, which sends everything away to the left. The Sarzo Spector is utterly ludicrous in this regard.

 

Indeed!  The relationship between the 12th fret (top horn hang position on a P bass as a benchmark), top horn length and bridge position give you that 'throw' to where the first fret is.  

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You know, this thread could end up being a goldmine for folks thinking about getting a custom bass built for them. So much to think about especially getting the nippy thing just right. 

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I enjoy all my basses very much - otherwise I wouldn't have them.  None of them are perfect though.  I've said that if I ever reviewed basses on YouTube or whatnot, I'd make sure I didn't just gush over whatever it was I'm looking at, there's always room for improvement.  So, let me critique my current crop and say one negative thing about each.

 

G&L CLF L-1000 - zero shielding, shocking for an instrument which cost £1300 at the time, had to do it myself.

G&L Tribute LB-100 - the vintage tint on the neck is yellow, looks like it's got jaundice in the wrong light.

Soloking MJ1 Classic - Stoopid name!  Cup style jack socket mount means I have to be picky with my right angled cables.

Sire D5 - pickup output is a bit low, have to remember to compensate either at the compressor output or the preamp.

Epiphone Les Paul (not so) Standard - opposite problem to above, those DiMarzio X2N-B pickups I put in there have bonkers output, needs taming at the compressor so it isn't clipping on the preamp when set to 1.

Harley Benton HB-50 (prototype) - stock it came wired with crap pots and a useless switch which gave you either or both coils, made almost no difference to the sound.  Since modded to series/single/parallel and decent pots.

Yamaha BB1200 - there's a ding/bit of lacquer missing on the back of the neck which is in an annoying, occasionally noticeable place.  Sometimes I think I'll have a go at repairing, sometimes I think I should just leave it be.

Epiphone Jack Casady 20th Anniversary - I think it's bloody rotten that Epiphone don't at least supply the JC with a gig bag - it's hollow FFS!  The fact that my 20th Anniversary came with one shows that they can do it when they can be arsed and it annoys me.

Reverend Triad - the neck heel sticks out a bit from the body, looks a bit goofy, I think they could have streamlined that a bit.

Epiphone Korina Explorer - the case is fecking huge - the only way to get it in my car is by taking up the front passenger seat and sticking it in the footwell then up against the seat.

 

There you go - a negative aspect for every bass I own.  What a whingebag!

 

I don't get the being put off by relative positioning thing.  When playing the basses I own where the first fret/tuners feel like they're in a different time zone to me (I'm chiefly looking at you - Les Paul, Explorer and any Thunderbird I've ever owned) it just makes me feel even more like the rock star I know I am ;)

 

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17 minutes ago, Woodinblack said:

 

Probably why my euro 5 has two strap buttons!

I relocated said nippy rear strap button to a more suitable place for me. I love practicing with the Spector as is so easy to play when sitting down but not so great standing up at rehearsals. 

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9 minutes ago, neepheid said:

I enjoy all my basses very much - otherwise I wouldn't have them.  None of them are perfect though.  I've said that if I ever reviewed basses on YouTube or whatnot, I'd make sure I didn't just gush over whatever it was I'm looking at, there's always room for improvement.  So, let me critique my current crop and say one negative thing about each.

 

G&L CLF L-1000 - zero shielding, shocking for an instrument which cost £1300 at the time, had to do it myself.

G&L Tribute LB-100 - the vintage tint on the neck is yellow, looks like it's got jaundice in the wrong light.

Soloking MJ1 Classic - Stoopid name!  Cup style jack socket mount means I have to be picky with my right angled cables.

Sire D5 - pickup output is a bit low, have to remember to compensate either at the compressor output or the preamp.

Epiphone Les Paul (not so) Standard - opposite problem to above, those DiMarzio X2N-B pickups I put in there have bonkers output, needs taming at the compressor so it isn't clipping on the preamp when set to 1.

Harley Benton HB-50 (prototype) - stock it came wired with crap pots and a useless switch which gave you either or both coils, made almost no difference to the sound.  Since modded to series/single/parallel and decent pots.

Yamaha BB1200 - there's a ding/bit of lacquer missing on the back of the neck which is in an annoying, occasionally noticeable place.  Sometimes I think I'll have a go at repairing, sometimes I think I should just leave it be.

Epiphone Jack Casady 20th Anniversary - I think it's bloody rotten that Epiphone don't at least supply the JC with a gig bag - it's hollow FFS!  The fact that my 20th Anniversary came with one shows that they can do it when they can be arsed and it annoys me.

Reverend Triad - the neck heel sticks out a bit from the body, looks a bit goofy, I think they could have streamlined that a bit.

Epiphone Korina Explorer - the case is fecking huge - the only way to get it in my car is by taking up the front passenger seat and sticking it in the footwell then up against the seat.

 

There you go - a negative aspect for every bass I own.  What a whingebag!

 

I don't get the being put off by relative positioning thing.  When playing the basses I own where the first fret/tuners feel like they're in a different time zone to me (I'm chiefly looking at you - Les Paul, Explorer and any Thunderbird I've ever owned) it just makes me feel even more like the rock star I know I am ;)

 

I best start on my lot now 😂

give me time on the following:

Gibson SG

Squier CV 50s tele

US Fender P

MIJ Fender P

US EBMM Stingray

Cort FMMH A5

Yamaha Attitude mk2

Yamaha BB714BS

Spector Euro 4LT

Jackson Minion

Schecter CV4

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21 minutes ago, neepheid said:

II don't get the being put off by relative positioning thing.  When playing the basses I own where the first fret/tuners feel like they're in a different time zone to me (I'm chiefly looking at you - Les Paul, Explorer and any Thunderbird I've ever owned) it just makes me feel even more like the rock star I know I am ;)

 

The relative positioning thing with the hohner B2 (I have one as well) is that if you go to play what you think is the 3rd fret it is actually the 5th, and seems unique to this instrument. The thunderbird has a long neck which you have to reach for more, but you never make that mistake with it.

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10 minutes ago, Woodinblack said:

 

The relative positioning thing with the hohner B2 (I have one as well) is that if you go to play what you think is the 3rd fret it is actually the 5th, and seems unique to this instrument. The thunderbird has a long neck which you have to reach for more, but you never make that mistake with it.

 

I tried a Steinberger cricket bat in a shop once, it was just all round weird (relative positioning was the least of it) and I didn't think it sounded that good either so cricket bat curiosity satisfied, I don't ever need to go down that road again.

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8 hours ago, Marvin said:

I had a Warwick Rockbass Corvette, one the early ones with the one piece bridge.

 

I didn't have it long enough to figure out why but the way it hung on the strap the first fret felt a million miles away. That and a neck that was as thick as 2 baseball bats tied together made it the most awful and uncomfortable bass I've ever owned.

 

3 hours ago, warwickhunt said:

The 12th fret phenomenon... and nobody has mentioned the Warwick Thumb; now that is a position thrower!  :)

Exactly why I stopped playing my old Warwick Thumb!

 

Back when I was younger, fitter and ergonomically naive, I saved up my pennies for my first "really nice" bass and chose a 5 string, bolt-on Thumb after getting into Jack Bruce and trying out several Warwicks at the UK Music Show.  I loved the ginormous neck and didn't mind that the headstock was in the next postcode. But after a number of years, it started to cause problems - back and shoulder pain that would last several days after a gig and my fretting hand would cramp up during repetitive basslines down by the nut. As my experience and skills grew, I realised the bass' inherent design was the problem. I stopped playing it and got a new bass that balanced properly and I don't get those physical problems anymore.

 

Since then, I make sure any bass I feels right ergonomically.

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When I saved up for my first "good" bass, I ended up being quite set on a Thumb NT5.

I find that they won't stay on my leg when playing seated. They almost need to be wedged in classical-style, between the legs.

I didn't buy it in the end, and got something else instead. 

 

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On 05/01/2024 at 09:13, warwickhunt said:

The 12th fret phenomenon... and nobody has mentioned the Warwick Thumb; now that is a position thrower!  :)

 

re. the Steinberger hook - Ned used that to great effect on his collaboration with John Bolin on the original NS bass.  The best bit is that it is designed to swing/fold away so that it doesn't get in the way when not in use on a strap.  

 

image.png.12e361653dfc064d26bd8af259ecd79a.png

 

image.thumb.png.03f9c799114edbe40b82413182506220.png

That is a fine looking axe. 

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