3below

Kramer DMZ4401 aluminium neck bass, TI flats. Hard to explain but the notes almost play themselves off the frets. They 'resonate' with energy, liveliness and a 'rubbery' feel. I have no other bass that does this, even with same TI flats on. The bass just says 'play me and I will make you sound good'.

[quote name='Passinwind' timestamp='1488991489' post='3253564'] Absolutely, it's all about tradeoffs as always. At this point I have less than zero interest in any bass cab that only uses a single driver though, personally. Many people do prefer that format, of course. [/quote] Having the luxury of both types of cab I find it depends on the bass I am using. Both cabs are 3015LF based in the low department.

Marshall are very good at dating and knowing what you have - I gained a very early PA head (free) and they were most helpful, they will also service / fix.

[quote name='mep' timestamp='1488743171' post='3251480'] Bummer. If it was in the cone you could fix it but I'm not sure how easy it is to fix where you have holed it. Good luck [/quote] +1 to the above. Since it is a puncture wound the original surround and suspension fabric / paper will still be attached. I would push it back into place and reform the shape of the surround as best you can. Apply copydex to each side in turn allowing each side to set. You might want to cut a small piece of tissue paper to fit, fold into shape to replicate the folds and copydex it onto the back) A serious case of Sod's law, if only the hole was in the main cone..... I have suggested copydex rather than wood glue due to the flexibility. You have nothing to lose now by attempting a repair.

Someone will get lucky Highly underrated basses.

[quote name='skej21' timestamp='1488659301' post='3250919'] Surely if an upright bass requires a huge sound board to project and produce a good tone, then it's no wonder that the common choice of a cheap, laminate wood acoustic bass guitar with a (comparatively) tiny body/sound board is going to lack projection and a source for decent tone. I'm yet to play an acoustic bass guitar that A. sounds good unplugged, B. feels nice to play or C. didn't need amplifying to be useful. [/quote] I have managed B, however even an upright needs amplification in many situations so what chance the relatively small body of acoustic basses.

[quote name='pete.young' timestamp='1488657967' post='3250903'] A double bass would be so much better on every level. [/quote] And so much bigger, size matters

I have nothing but praise for Peavey bass amps and combos. Used mine from 1982 to 2010 without a problem, replaced the speaker and it was good for another lifetime (in someone elses hands now).

[quote name='skankdelvar' timestamp='1488309858' post='3247815'] Bought an archtop last year which came with a standard 'two foot' bridge support but topped with a tuneomatic type bridge. Swapped the TOM for a compensated wood bridge, about a fiver from China. Less twang, definitely 'woodier' and looser whether heard acoustically or amplified (P90s). So a wood bridge definitely makes something of a difference though - as usual - ymmv. FWIW Fishman do an [url="https://www.fishman.com/products/series/classic/archtop-guitar-pickup/"]archtop piezo bridge[/url] for a mere £199. [/quote] I did the same thing with my archtop and would agree with the tonal comments. Money well spent I feel.

An interesting challenge, have you considered anodizing the fingerboard rather than enamel. Less susceptible to chips? With a thick (10mm +) Ti fingerboard would a composite neck be necessary (I realise is desirable).

[quote name='gary mac' timestamp='1487621396' post='3241321'] Thanks gents. It does play really well, the pick ups are sweet. The keyboard warriors who constantly tell us how awful the Fender output was in the seventies, would have to eat their words if they were to have a play on this one. I will give it a proper set up and a new set of D'Addarios in the next day or two and then just enjoy. [/quote] In my youth I had a 77 Tele (standard). Fit and finish were fine, it was / is probably the best sounding guitar I have ever owned. Sadly long gone - pxd against one of Mr Hall's basses remain unmentionable.

From your comment that all screws are tight and speakers are securely fixed to baffle then my first thought (without knowing the cab make, construction material, bracing and dimensions) would be insufficient bracing. Get someone to play loudly through cab to induce the vibrations. Use your hands to find and damp the offending panels. Obtain some scrap 3" strips (approx) of 12mm (or thicker) mdf or ply or 2" x 1" (or an old broom handle). Cut these to provide a tight internal cross bracing where the vibrations occur. This shows the idea (courtesy of BFM) [url="http://www.billfitzmaurice.info/images/Templates/bracing.jpg"]http://www.billfitzm...tes/bracing.jpg[/url]. It might provide the solution, from practical experience it does make a difference.

Inspirational for next build and a bargain. What price for an equivalent from a boutique luthier? My eyes are watering at the thought.

[quote name='Cyrene' timestamp='1487027574' post='3236470'] I aim to accommodate. [/quote] White blonde Butterscotch blonde I will stop at this point, although I was taken by Antigua in the 1970s and Bullion gold is quite nifty. There was some silver colour as well....

Blonde, sunburst and natural seem to missing, some mistake surely

Shims at one end of the neck (rather than full length) have been factory fitted. Quite a few of my (too many) basses and guitars have the micro tilt. Does not seen to affect the sound either way. Plastic cut from bottles or TV dinners provides readily available shim material in varying thicknesses. I have also used cardboard and folded cooking foil.

Longest set: 35 years, Rotosounds (Black nylon tapewounds - so a sort of hybrid) on an EKO fretless acoustic. Plenty if life in them. Second longest 8 years: TI flats, still going strong.

I suspect either a neck shim or neck tilt adjust is required rather than a bridge replacement. [url="https://www.premierguitar.com/articles/19686-guitar-shop-101-how-to-shim-a-bolt-on-neck"]https://www.premierguitar.com/articles/19686-guitar-shop-101-how-to-shim-a-bolt-on-neck[/url] guitar related but you will get the idea. If you are lucky (depending on the era your bass was made) you will have a micro tilt adjust. Makes the job even easier. [url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ekS4KBMpVY"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ekS4KBMpVY[/url]. . My brand new Fender (1977) was very poorly set up, after getting the 'manual' from Fender customer support I sorted it myself easily.

I have used both Chromes and TI flats on my fretless. Both seem to work fine to my way of thinking. The cheap way to find out is wait until s/h sets appear on BC. Being flats they last a lifetime - I have one set at 8+ years, nicely broken in now

[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1486298205' post='3230628'] I think the best petition would be for, when a biggie gig comes along, like the Ed Sheeran one, the touts etc buy the tickets, put them up for sale and NO-ONE buys them. Leave them having bought all of that for nothing. Problem is, that`s very unlikely to happen. [/quote] Consumer 'strike' is an underused weapon. I do wonder if the 'touts' physically buy tickets or are there other 'special arrangements' in place. John Mayer tour had uk tickets released at 9.00 a.m and by 9:02 these were sold out. Pretty amazing all round purchasing and processing rate. Needless to say the tickets have appeared at vastly higher prices.

Done

I had originally started building a pair of 3 way PA cabs: 9mm lightweight ply - 3015 Kappalites, Faital M5N8-80 mid range and 18 sound XD125 compression driver and flare. Initially with a 3 way crossover driver. The Faital M5N8-80 choice came about indirectly from developing a custom 3 way bass cabinet with Shermann Audio. The project has stalled - lack of time, other stuff intervenes as usual (I blame Andyjr and build threads). I built two prototype lightweight cabs at the start of my early retirement (55 lol) however I keep getting work thrown at me that is fun and financially worthwhile. Retirement, what is that? Would you like the long term loan of a Faital driver and an XD125 with flare? I also have some 'big' inductors and capacitors for a suitable crossover network. From what you have developed before I guess the eventual designs will be 'open source / creative commons' or similar. If this is so PM me.

What thoughts on the mid range driver? I got quite taken by the Faital Pro M5N8-80 and have a pair awaiting use.